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Fig. 408. — Toy Machine-Gun with Magazine that Holds Twelve Wooden 
Cartridges (See Chapter 17). 




Fig. 409. — Squad with Toy Maohine-Gun. The Helmets are Made of Tin 

Wash-Basins. 






CARPENTRY 

& MECHANICS 

FOR BOYS 



HANDICRAFT BOOKS 

BY 

A. NEELY HALL 



8vo. Cloth. Illustrated -with hundreds of full-page 

and working drawings by the author 

and Norman P. Hall 



THE BOY CRAFTSMAN . . . Price net $2.00 

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY BOYS Price net $2.00 

THE HANDY BOY .... Price net #2.00 

HOME-MADE TOYS FOR GIRLS 

AND BOYS Priced #1.25 

HANDICRAFT FOR HANDY GIRLS Price net $2.00 

CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS 

FOR BOYS Price net $2.00 



LOTHROP, LEE & SHEPARD CO., BOSTON 



CARPENTRY 

& MECHANICS 

FOR BOYS 

Up'to'tne-minute Handicraft 

By jtkedyRtSL^ 

j^umorof'lnoBqv Craftsman % 
u "Handicraft for Handy Boys, 
Home-made Toys fir Girls and Boys" 
Handicraft for Handy Girls. 
"%e Handy Boy "Etc. 

VN^iWerssYeiUiiui^ ancLwark- 

ing-orawings by tnc aumor andNormanPHall 



BOSTON 

LOTHROP. LEE &* SHEPARD CO. 



/fa£> 
'tip,* 



Copyright, 1918, By Lothrop, Lee & Shepard Company 

Published, December 1918. 



All rights reserved. 



Carpentry and Mechanics for Boys 



DEC I i 1918 

©CI.A506865 



A boy with a hobby learns 
independence of thought and action. 



INTRODUCTORY NOTES 

When the author produced "The Boy Craftsman," "Handicraft 
for Handy Boys," "The Handy Boy," and "Home-made Toys for 
Girls and Boys," he presented his latest developments in handicraft. 
These books have been recognized generally as the most up-to-date 
publications of their kind. Boys' handicraft, however, has felt war's 
influence as has everything else. Wireless telegraphy, that most 
popular of boys' hobbies, has been shelved for the duration of the war, 
because of Government restrictions, and other activities have suffered 
on account of the scarcity as well as the cost of materials. But new 
fields of endeavor have been created. Aircraft, sea-craft, undersea- 
craft, and land-craft are being reproduced in miniature; in fact, there 
is no phase of modern warfare which boys are not investigating. 
With universal military service for young men established in this 
Country, and strong prospects of its becoming a permanent institu- 
tion, junior war mechanics is a hobby likely to be perpetuated. 

Because of boys' interest in these new lines of handicraft, the 
author has been persuaded to bring out "Carpentry and Mechanics 
for Boys." In this volume will be found plans for toy battleships, a 
submarine, airplanes, miniature warfare, toy artillery, a machine-gun, 
drill-guns, periscopes, etc. In addition to the war mechanics, Part I 
presents workshop ideas, including plans for household conveniences, 
furniture, and novelties. Part II presents plans for mechanical toys, 
and Part III plans for backyard and camp. 

Gardening has received an impetus never before known, as the 
result of the food situation created by the war, so a number of chapters 
have been devoted to plans for making garden accessories. Bird- 



vi INTRODUCTORY NOTES 

house building in which there is an ever increasing interest, is treated 
in six chapters. 

A boy's earning capacity never has been so great as at the present- 
time, nor has it been of so great importance. Many practical sug- 
gestions for earning money will be found in this new book of handi- 
craft. 

All ideas in "Carpentry and Mechanics for Boys" have been carried 
out successfully by boys, a test which the author requires of material 
used in his handicraft books. Much of the material has appeared in 
the author's handicraft department of "The American Boy," other 
material has been published in "St. Nicholas," "The Ladies' Home 
Journal," "Woman's Home Companion," "Suburban Life," in news- 
papers, and in Sunday school weeklies. 

Following the plan of his former volumes, the author has utilized 
for the construction of work described in "Carpentry and Mechanics 
for Boys" such materials as can be picked up at home, or procured for 
little or nothing. The value of encouraging boys to reduce the cost 
of their work to a minimum is three-fold. Of first importance, it 
teaches the boy to conserve material. Of second importance, it 
teaches him to be self reliant, to keep his material costs within his 
earning capacity. His handicraft activities do not become an 
endless drain upon father's pocket-book. Of third importance, it 
teaches him resourcefulness, which will be valuable to him in business 
life. Whether he becomes builder, manufacturer, engineer, architect, 
mechanic, or a follower of any one of hundreds of occupations, his 
success will depend largely upon how well he can utilize material, 
upon how much he can produce with the least expense. 

Providing the boy with books that show how to make things he 
is interested in, is undoubtedly the solution of the problem of training 
him to be industrious. Following the suggestions presented, he 
becomes handy with tools, learns to convert raw materials into 
finished products, gets the knack of combining brain work with hand 
work, develops initiative. 



INTRODUCTORY NOTES vii 

It is gratifying to the author to hear of his readers' success after 
they have entered business life, and it interests him to note the large 
percentage of readers who follow an occupation which served as a 
school-day hobby. At the present writing, thousands of grown 
"boy craftsmen" are in the service of the Government, helping win 
the great war overseas. The author regrets that a list of the names 
of these lads is unavailable, and that it is thus impossible to fly a 
service flag with a star thereon for each reader serving with the colors. 
And to the lads who have laid down their lives in the just cause for 
which they have fought, he wishes that he might do fitting honor. 
! The author is always glad to hear from his readers, and will place 
upon his mailing-list the names of those who make the request, that 
they may receive information from time to time relating to handi- 
craft activities. 



A. N. H. 



Elmhurst, Illinois, 
May 31, 1918. 




PART I 
THE HOME WORKSHOP 



CHAPTER I 



The Home Work-Bench 



page 

1 



Work-Shop Ideas in the Author's Other Handicraft Books — 
An Improvised Work-Bench — The Bench Top — The Bench-Vise 
— A Bench-Stop — A Work-Bench with an Adjustable Vise — Bill 
of Material — The Framework — ■ The Bench- Vise — To Attach 
the Bench-Screw — Peg Supports for Work — A Bench-Stop — 
Tool-Cabinets and Tool-Racks. 



CHAPTER II 



Scroll-Saw Problems 



Saws — A Table to Cut Upon — Jig-Saw Picture Puzzles — The 
Best Wood — Picture Material — Mounting — How to Cut Up a 
Picture Puzzle — The T-Puzzle — Full-Size Patterns — The Square 
Puzzle — The Patterns — The Prism Puzzle — A Seven-Piece Set 
of Doll Furniture — Bird and Animal Cut-Outs. 



14 



CHAPTER III 



Spool Gifts 



Materials Required — A Candle-Stick — Finishing — A Desk 
Calendar — A Stationery- Rack — A Pen-Rack — A Desk Blotter 
— A Paper- Knife — A Paper-Spindle — A Toothpick Holder — 
A Ripper — A Hatpin-Holder — A Necktie-Rack. 

ix 



33 



x CONTENTS 

CHAPTER IV 

Small Gifts In Wood 41 

Material — A Stain and Wax Finish — The Calendar- Board and 
Pen- Rack — The Post-Card Rack — The Book-Ends — The 
Candle-Stick — The Match-Holder and Tray — The Egg- Rack — 
A Desk Telephone Directory — A Time-Card Rack — A Wall 
Telephone Directory — A Necktie-Rack — >A Necktie- or Towel- 
Rack — An Electric-Lighted Watch Base — The Electric-Light 
Attachment. 

CHAPTER V 

A Paper-Baler 57 

The Base of the Baler — The Compressor Top — The Com- 
pressor Lever — How the Paper-Baler is Operated. 

CHAPTER VI 
For Mother's Kitchen 63 

A Kitchen Clock-Shelf — Finish for Kitchen Articles — A Tool- 
Rack — A Milk-Card Rack — ■ A Recipe-Cabinet — The Cabinet — 
The Drawer — The Envelope Containers — A Step-Ladder Stool — 
The Ladder — The Side Rails — ■ The Steps — The Rear Legs — 
The Top Step — The Struts — A Clothes-Line Reel — The Case 
of the Reel — The Reel — The Crank Shaft — The Clothes- Line — 
Hangers — Locking the Reel. 

CHAPTER VII 

For Mother's Sewing-Room. . . . . . .77 

A Fancy- Work Frame — Spool-Spindles — A Sewing-Stand — 
Assembling — Finishing the Woodwork — A Cretonne or Denim 
Covering — A Waste-Basket — A Work-Bag on a Folding Support 
— The Bag — A Fancywork-Box — Covering the Box — A Cloth 
Pocket and Elastic Tapes — Spool-Spindles — A Fancywork-Box 
with Legs — Cretonne Covering — The Sammy Spool-Holder — 
A Needle Forms Sammy's Bayonet — Painting Sammy's Clothes — 
A Yarn-Winder — Sweater Knitting Needles — Sock Knitting 
Needles — Needle-Point Protectors — A Whisk-Broom Holder. 



CONTENTS xi 

CHAPTER VIII 

Box Furniture .......... 96 

A Packing-Box Desk — Pigeon Holes — Finishing — A Desk-Stool — 
Upholstering — Finishing — Covering for the Seat — A Waste- 
Basket — Box Rockers — Warping the Barrel-Stave Rockers — A 
Table — A Tabouret. 

CHAPTER IX 

Small Furniture Problems . . . . . . . .111 

Material — Finishing — A Waste-Basket — A Tabouret — A 
Plant-Stand — A Smoker's Stand — A Book-Trough and Magazine- 
Stand — ■ A Telephone Table and Chair — The Table — The Chair. 



PART II 
WAR TOYS AND MECHANICAL TOYS 

CHAPTER X 

A Toy Superdreadnought Battleship ...... 129 

The Way to Make Simplified Models — Materials — The Hull — 
The Superstructure-Deck — The Funnels — The Conning- Tower 
— The Masts — The Wireless Aerial — Fighting-Tops — Turret 
Bases and Turrets — Main-Battery Guns — Secondary-Battery 
Guns — Flagstaff s — Deck-Rails — Keel Strips — Running-Gear — 
Painting — Assembling. 

CHAPTER XI 

A Toy Submarine 139 

The Mechanism — The Hull and Upper Decks — The Ballast 
Pocket — The Trigger for Releasing the Ballast — Periscopes — 
Painting — Submerging the Submarine Upon Lake or Pond. 



xii CONTENTS 

CHAPTER XII 

A Fleet of Toy Battleships ....... 145 

Fleet Maneuvers in Miniature — A Battleship — The Hull — The 
Superstructure-Deck — The Masts — The Fighting-Tops — Funnels — 
Conning-Tower — Gun Turrets — Main-Battery Guns — Second- 
ary-Battery Guns — Spool Wheels — Wireless Aerial — A Cruiser — 
The Hull — Superstructure-Deck — Gun Turrets — Main-Battery 
Guns — Secondary-Battery Guns — Funnels — Masts — Fighting- 
Tops — Assembling — Paddle- Wheel. 

CHAPTER XIII 
Toy Artillery and Miniature Warfare . . ... 156 

Miniature Battles — A Field Artillery Gun — Shaping the Gun 

— The Plunger — Testing the Gun — Three-Eighths-Inch Shells — 
The Gun-Carriage — Wheels — Mounting the Gun — The Elevat- 
ing Device — A Siege Gun — Shaping the Gun — The Plunger — 
One-Half-Inch Sheels — The Gun Carriage — The Elevating Device 

— Painting — A Fortification — Disappearing Guns — The Flag- 
staff — Laying Out a Battlefield. 

CHAPTER XIV 

Sand-Motor Toys . 170 

A Practical Sand- Motor — The Sand-Hopper — The Paddle- 
Wheel — Shafting — Pulley- Wheels — Position of the Paddle- 
Wheel — Sand for Motor — A Toy Trip-Hammer — A Toy Grind- 
stone — A Teeter Toy — The Standard — The Hopper — The 
Teeter — How the Teeter Toy Works — Doll Teeterers — A Sand 
Scoop. 

CHAPTER XV 

A Toy Derrick-Crane With Clqckwork Motor. . . . 181 

Clockwork for Toy Motors — The Pulley Wheel — Pulley-Belts — 
Winding-Drums — The Motor-Shack — Installing the Motor — 
A Turntable — The Derrick — The Beam — The Mast — The 
Mast Pulley — The Boom — The Hoisting-Block — Cables — 
Tracks. 



CONTENTS xiii 

CHAPTER XVI 

An Electro-Magnet Traveling Crane ..... 190 

Possibilities with an Electro-Magnet — ■ The Crane Carriage 

— Stick Tracks — The Electro-Magnet — The Switch — The 
Hoisting-Cable. 

CHAPTER XVII 

A Toy Machine-Gun 196 

How to Have Fun with the Toy Machine-Gun — The Gun-Stock 

— The Barrel — The Front Sight — The Hammer Rod — The 
Hammer Spring — The Firing-Crank — Dowel-Stick Cartridges 

— The Magazine — The Tripod — Painting — A Helmet. 

CHAPTER XVIII 

Drill Guns ........... 210 

Drill Clubs — A Simple Model of Drill-Gun — A Pattern for 
Marking out Duplicate Stocks — The Barrel — The Trigger — 
A Trigger-Guard — The Front Sight — The Rear Sight — Finishing 

— A Springfield Rifle Model — The Stock and Barrel — The 
Trigger and Trigger-Guard — The Front Sight — The Rear Sight 

— Finishing — A Sling — Weight of a Springfield — To Increase 
Weight of Drill-Guns — A Bayonet — A Scabbard. 



PART III 

BACK YARD AND CAMP CRAFT 

CHAPTER XIX 

Signalling .......... 220 

The Two-Arm Semaphore System — A Hand Flag of Standard 
Size — Memorizing the Code — ■ To Attract Attention — Numerals 

— To Correct an Error — To Annul a Message — To Acknowledge 

— To Signify Readiness — To Indicate a Negative Reply, an Affirm- 
ative, a Question — ■ To Finish a Message. 



xiv CONTENTS 

CHAPTER XX 

Simple Model Airplanes ........ 225 

Principles which Govern Stability of Airplanes — The Matter 
of Balance — The Center of Gravity and Center of Air Pressure — 
To Make an Envelope Glide — An Envelope Glider — A Cardboard 
Glider — A Sling-Shot Glider — The Sling-Shot — To Launch the 
Sling-Shot Glider — The Aerial Top — To Spin the Top. 

CHAPTER XXI 

Tents for Hikes and the Back Yard . ..... 235 

Utilizing Materials at Hand — The "A" Shelter Tent — For the 
Tripod Tent — The Lean-To Tent — The Cage Tent. 

CHAPTER XXII 
Back Yard and Camp Fireplaces ...... 241 

The Fireplace with Trenched Fire-Pit — The Fireplace with 
Circular Fire-Pit — The Fireplace with Above-Ground Fire-Pit — 
A Carnp Oven — A Wash-Boiler Camp Stove — A Fire Shovel — 
A Camp-Fire Tripod. 

CHAPTER XXIII 
Back Yard and Camp Lamps ....... 249 

A Varnish-Can Lantern — A Lard-Pail Candle Lantern — ■ A 
Tin-Can Candle-Holder — Another Tin-Can Candle-Holder — A 
Candle Light-Fixture — A Bicycle-Lamp Bracket Light-Fixture — 
A Candle Lamp-Post — Trench Candles. 

CHAPTER XXIV 

A Bike Garage . 258 

Caring for the Bicycle — Working Material for a Garage — The 
Floor Framework — Laying the Floor — The Side Walls — Erect- 
ing the Walls — The Roof — The Door • — A Cupboard — A Wheel- 
Rack — A Runway — Painting — Make the Garage Tighter. 



CONTENTS xv 

CHAPTER XXV 

A Toboggan-Slide 266 

Building a Slide in Cold Weather — • An Inexpensive Slide — 
Building Material — The Platform Base — The Platform Railings 

— The Step-Railings — Setting Up the Framework — Collecting 
Snow for the Slide — The Platform — A Set of Steps — The Surface 
of the Slide — If There is a Scarcity of Snow — A Plank Slide — 
A More Elaborate Toboggan-Slide. 

CHAPTER XXVI 

A Bob-Sled 275 

Two Ways of Building a Bob-Sled — The Material Required — 
The Sled Runners — ■ The Connecting Crosspieces — The Foot-Bar 

— The Steering-Line" — The Sled Seats — The Bob-Sled Connecting 
Seat — Upholstering the Seat — The Hand-Rails — Runner Shoes 

— Painting. 

CHAPTER XXVII 
A Snow-Fort Periscope ........ 284 

Advantage of a Periscope for Defenders of a Snow Fort — How 
Periscope is Used — Material Required — - Cutting Out the Parts — 
To Assemble the Box — The Openings — Handles — Painting the 
Periscope Box. 

PART IV 

GARDEN CRAFT 

CHAPTER XXVIII 

A Hotbed 293 

Principle of the Hotbed — Size to Make It — A Single-Sash 
Hotbed — The Framework — To Assemble the Framework — 
Digging the Pit — Filling the Pit — A Cold-Frame. 



xvi CONTENTS 

CHAPTER XXIX 

Seed Boxes and Paper Pots 298 

Starting Plants Early — Seed-Flats — ■ Filling — Miniature 
Greenhouses — A Greenhouse with a Lean-To Roof — A Green- 
house with a Gable Roof — Painting — Paper Pots — A Pot Made 
From a Cardboard Box — Circular Pots. 

CHAPTER XXX 

Plant Shields and Forcers. ....... 305 

Protecting Transplantings — A Paper-Funnel Shield — A Flower- 
Pot Shield — A Basket Shield — A Tin Can Shield and Forcer — 
A Plant Forcer. 

CHAPTER XXXI 
Flower-Boxes 309 

Making Flower-Boxes to Sell — Material for Boxes — Finishing 

— A Window or Porch Box — Feet — A Plant-Tub — A Plant- 
Stand — A Hanging-Box — ■ Suspending the Box — Metal Liners — 
Removing Surplus Water — A Satisfactory Drain — Planting in 
Metal-Lined Boxes — A Hanging-Basket. 

CHAPTER XXXII 
Garden Accessories ......... 319 

A Tin Can Sprinkler — A Dibble — An Umbrella-Handle Dibble 

— A Planting Trencher — A Seed Basket — Garden Markers — 
How to Put Up Strings for Vines — Tomato- Racks. 

CHAPTER XXXIII 
Racks and Trays for Canning Time ...... 325 

Apparatus for the Cold-Pack Method of Canning — A Wash- 
Boiler Rack — A Rack Suspended over a Stove — A Drying- Tray to 
Stand upon a Stove — A Sun Dryer — A Rack for Ripening Tomatoes 

— Making Racks and Trays to Sell. 



CONTENTS xvii 

CHAPTER XXXIV 
A Lawn Roller 331 

Earning Money by Rolling Lawns — Material Required for Lawn 
Roller — The Centering Platform — To Locate the Center for the 
Axle — The Center of the Flange End — The Concrete Mixture — 
Pouring the Concrete — The Initial Set — Removing the Tile Pipe 

— The Iron Pipe Handle Frame — Painting the Handle Frame. 

CHAPTER XXXV 

Bird Houses . . . . . . . . . . 336 

Nature's Provision for Balance in Insect Life — Re-establishing 
Nature's Balance — Bird-House Campaigns — A Good All-the- 
Year Around Activity — The American Bird-House League — 
Work to be Proud Of — A Boy's Bird-House Factory — Right 
Dimensions for Houses — The Height Above Ground to Place the 
Houses — A Chart of Correct Dimensions — Materials for Bird- 
House Building — Finishing. 

CHAPTER XXXVI 
Wren Houses 343 

Wren Requirements — Wren House No. 1 — Wren House No. 2 

— Wren House No. 3 — Finishing. 

CHAPTER XXXVII 

Robin Shelters ......... 348 

Robin Requirements — Robin Shelter No. 1 — Robin Shelter 
No. 2. 

CHAPTER XXXVIII 

Woodpecker Houses 353 

Woodpecker Requirements — Woodpecker House No. 1 — Wood- 
pecker House No. 2. 



xviii CONTENTS 

CHAPTER XXXIX 

A Bluebird'House . 358 

Bluebird Requirements — A Hanging-House — Doorways — ■ 
Assembling the House — ■ A Removable Floor — Perch-Sticks — A 
House on a Pole — An Iron-Pipe Support — A Permanent Way of 
Erecting the Pipe. 

CHAPTER XXXX 

A Martin House 364 

Martin Requirements — ■ Building Material — ■ The First Story 
Frame — Cutting the Doorways — Nailing Together the Frame 
Boards — Preparing the Floor Boards — Cutting the Gable-Ends 
— The Roof Boards — Brackets — The Chimney — Support for 
the House — ■ A Concrete Base — Setting Up the Martin House. 

Index 373 



LIST OF HALF-TONE ILLUSTRATIONS 



(In addition to more than 700 text illustrations) 



PART I 



Fig. 408. — Toy Machine-Gun with Magazine that Holds 

Twelve Wooden Cartridges 
Fig. 409. — Squad with Toy Machine-Gun 



Frontispiece 



OPPOSITE PAGE 



Fig. 8. — 
Kind 



Fig. 53. — 



g. T6. — 



53. 

54. 

55. 

56. 

57. 

58.' 

70. 

71. 

72.. 

73. 

74.- 

75.- 

87.- 

88.- 

89.- 

90.- 

176. 

177. 

178. 

201. 

211. 

212. 

213. 

214. 



g. ail, — 



Corner of the Author's Work-Shop, Showing the Right 1 
of Work-Bench for a Boy to Build \ 

Candle-Stick 

Desk Calendar 

Stationery- Rack 

Pen- Rack 

Desk Blotter 

Paper-Knife 

Calendar-Board and Pen-Rack ' 

Post-Card Rack 

Book-Ends 

Candle-Stick 

Match-Holder and Tray 

Egg-Rack 

Telephone-Directory 

Necktie-Rack 

Necktie- or Towel-Rack 

Electric-Lighted Watch Base 

- Desk Made of Packing-Box and Lattice-Strips 

- Desk Stool with Box Top 

- Waste- Basket with Box Base 
Two Box Rockers, a Table and a Tabouret 
Waste- Basket 
Tabouret 
Plant-Stand 
Smoker's Stand _ 

xix 



34 



42 

48 

96 
108 

114 



xx LIST OF HALF-TONE ILLUSTRATIONS 



OPPOSITE PAGE 



Fig. 230. — Book-Trough and Magazine-Stand 1 110 

Fig. 231. — Telephone Table and Chair 



PART II 

Fig. 251. — A Superdreadnought Toy Battleship 

Fig. 268. — A Toy Submarine that Dives then Rises to the Water's } 129 

Surface J 

F 
F 
F 
F 
F 
F 
F 
F 
F 



g. 30-1. — Miniature Battles Can be Fought Scientifically ] 
g. 305. — Field Artillery Gun 156 

g. 306. — Siege Artillery Gun J 

g. 345. — Toy Machinery can be Operated by the Sand-Motor 1 ._„ 

g. 346. — Sand-Motor Teeter-Toy 

g. 373. — The Toy Derrick-Crane with Clockwork Motor 
g. 374. — Boom and Cable can be Operated Simultaneously 
g. 442. — Making Drill-Guns 

g. 443. — Squad at "Port Arms" (Equipped with Home-Made | 210 
Drill-Guns and Wash-Basin Helmets) - J 



182 



.1 



PART III 

Two- Arm Semaphore Signalling by a Patrol of the Author's Troop of 

Boy Scouts of America, Elmhurst, Illinois j 221 

Fig. 518. — Using the Shelf-Bracket Camp-Stove Tripod 



Fig. 519. — A Varnish-Can Lantern ; ' 248 

Fig. 554. — A Bob-Sled of which any Boy Might be Proud . . .276 

Fig. 571. — While Protected by the Snow Fort, You Watch the ] 

Enemy Through the Periscope | 284 

Fig. 572. — Front View of Periscope 

PART IV 



Fig. 581. — A Four-Sash Hot-Bed 
Fig. 711. — First Story in Place 
Fig. 712. — Adding the Second Story 
Fig. 713. — Third Story 
Fig. 714. — Ready for the Martins 



293 



LIST OF HALF-TONE ILLUSTRATIONS 



OPPOSITE PAGE 



Fig. 


613.— 


Fig. 


614. — 


Fig. 


615.— 


Fig. 


616.— 


Fig. 


617.— 


Fig. 


652. — 


Fig. 


658.— 


Fig. 


665.— 




Public 5 


Fig. 


669.— 


Fig. 


670.— 


Fig. 


671.— 


Fig. 


671.— 


Fig. 


672.— 


Fig. 


684.— 


Fig. 


685.— 


Fig. 


686.— 



Window or Porch Box 
Plant-Tub 
Plant-Stand 
Hanging-Box 
Hanging- Basket 
Sun Dryer for Vegetables 1 
A Concrete Lawn-Roller j 

Bird-Houses Entered in a Contest Held by the Pittsburgh 
Schools 

Wren House No. 1 
Wren House No. 2 
Wren House No. 3 
Robin Shelter No. 1 
Robin Shelter No. 2 
Woodpecker House No 
Woodpecker House No 
Bluebird House 



310 

330 
336 

344 
354 




PART I 

For Workshop 
and Home 





CHAPTER I 



THE HOME WORK-BENCH 



It has been the author's custom to begin his handicraft 
books with several chapters on the selection, care and 
handling of tools, the construction of cabinets and chests to 
hold them, the making of handy shop equipment, the pre- 
paration of work, and the finishing thereof. In fact, boys 
who own all of the volumes have in their possession the 
equivalent of a school course in manual- training. 

If you want to know about different forms of tools, what 
operations they are intended for, and what tools you will 
require for home carpentry, you will find the information in 
Chapter II of Handicraft for Handy Boys, you will learn 
how to handle tools properly by reading Chapter II of 
The Boy Craftsman, you will discover handy methods of 
doing things in Chapter III of The Handy Boy. Chapter 
III of Handicraft for Handy Boys will give you instruc- 
tion in manual-training problems, Chapter IV of the same 
volume will tell you about wood finishing, and Chapter V 
will show you how to prepare working-drawings. The 
making of tool-chests, tool-cabinets and work-benches is 
described in The Boy Craftsman, Handicraft for Handy 
Boys, and The Handy Boy, and the last named volume 
contains plans for building a small backyard work-shop. 

The author knows that most of you readers of Carpentry 

l 



2 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

and Mechanics for Boys will not be satisfied until you 
have added one or more of his other books to your library, 
and, therefore, in writing this book, he has touched but 
lightly upon subjects contained therein. The subject of 
work-benches has not been exhausted, however, so further 
suggestions have been brought together in this first chapter. 

To accomplish anything worth while in carpentry or 
mechanics, you must have a means of holding your work 
securely for planing, sawing, drilling, and other operations 
— a work-bench. Possibly there is no space at home 
available for a work-shop, possibly you are denied even 
enough working space in which to set up a permanent work- 
bench, because of living in an apartment building. Under 
these conditions you need not be deterred from doing home 
carpentry, however, even though you may have to work 
under difficulties. You can provide yourself with 

An Improvised Work-Bench like one the author used when 
he lived in an apartment. This bench, shown in Figs, i 
and 2, requires the use of mother's kitchen table, but the 
table is not altered or injured in any way, so there should 
be no reason for your not requisitioning it when it is not in 
the service of the culinary department, if mother does not 
object to your working in her kitchen. I believe that after 
you have demonstrated once or twice that you can and will 
clean up your scraps of wood, shavings, and sawdust when 
you are through working, leaving the kitchen as tidy as it 
was before you began to work, mother will have no objec- 
tion. 

You can make the work-bench attachment quickly, and 



THE HOME WORK-BENCH 




Fig. 1. - You Must Have a Work-Bench if that Bench be nothing 
than a Kitchen Table 



more 




Fig. 2. -A Kitchen Table with its Improvised Bench-Top Clamped 



4 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

it requires but an instant to attach and detach it. Once 
father discovers its convenience, he probably will make 
constant use of it when tinkering. 

Figure 3 shows 

The Bench-Top. This is built to set over the front edge 
of the table (Fig. 2), and is held in position with a pair of 
iron curtain-stretcher clamps (Figs. 6 and 7). Make top A 
and apron B of boards 10 inches wide by the length of the 
table. Bore four or five rows of holes ^4-inch in diameter 
through apron B (Fig. 4). Space the rows about 12 inches 
apart. To get the holes in straight rows, rule lines across 
the board on which to locate the hole centers. The holes 
are provided for wooden pegs G (Fig. 3). These pegs can 
be adjusted to the right heights and to the right distances 
apart, for supporting pieces of work of varied lengths (Fig. 2). 
Blocks C, nailed to the back of apron B at the ends (Fig. 4), 
should be cut of a thickness equal to the amount of projec- 
tion of the table- top, so that when top A is nailed to the 
edge of apron B, and the two are slipped over the front 
edge of the table, blocks C will rest against the front table 
legs. 

The Bench-Vise fastens to the left of the apron. It is 
built of pieces D and E (Fig. 5). Cut strip D 3 inches wide 
and 10 inches long, and nail it to apron B, then cut jaw block 
E 6 inches long and 10 inches wide, bevel its inner right-hand 
edge as shown, and nail it to strip D with the beveled edge 
turned in and projecting. Cut the pieces with the grain 
running as indicated. You will see by Fig. 2 how pieces 
D and E form a pocket into which to slide the ends of pieces 



THE HOME WORK-BENCH 



fe<--H 





BENCH -TOP 
TABLE 



Fig. 7 



Fig. 6 



Fig. 3. 



Make the Detachable Bench-Top for the Table Work-Bench, 
like This 

Fig. 4. — This is how the Bench-Top is Built Up 
Fig. 5. — Detail of Vise 
Figs. 6 and 7. — The Ends of the Bench-Top are Clamped to the Table 



6 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

of work, and how the work is wedged in with a beveled block 
F (Fig. 3). 

Block H (Figs. 3 and 4) is a 

Bench-Stop to push work against when working on the top 
of the bench. Make a "V ' cut in the right -hand end as shown. 

In Fig. 8, a corner of the author's work-shop, is shown. 

A Work-Bench With an Adjustable Vise. If you have 



MATERIAL 


PIECES 


DIMENSIONS 


PARTS 


4 


2" x4"x 2-4" 


LEGS A 


2 


X •■ X t. 


CROSSPIECES B 


2 


1" x4"x 


RAILS C 


7 


1" x4"s 


BRACESD&G 


I 


1" x|CTx5'-6" 


APRON E 


2 


1 " x 4" x 4'- 0" 


RAILS F 


3 


2" x)o"x 5'-6" 


TOP H 


1 


2" x 6"x2'-4" 


VISE JAW I 


1 


3/4"x 3"x |8" 


SLIDING- STRIP J 



Fig. 9.— Bill of Material for Work-Bench 



room for a permanent bench, this is the right kind to build. 
Details of its construction are shown in Figs. 10 to 17. 

A Bill of Material is given in Fig. 9. Several small pieces 
in addition to this material will be needed, but you can 
probably pick these up in the kindling-wood pile. Maple 
makes the best top, but you will find, as the author has 
found, that a pine top is plenty good enough, and of course 
it is much less expensive. Be careful not to cut up the 
surface with sharp-edged tools, and the pine top will keep 
in good condition for a long time. You will appreciate a 




~Mm 



-*^i 



its 






m 



Fig. 8. — Corner of the Author's Work-Shop, Showing the Right Kind 
of Work-Bench for a Boy to Build. 



THE HOME WORK-BENCH 7 

soft wood top many times when you have occasion to drive 
in a nail for a temporary stop or for some other purpose. 

If there is no lumber yard or mill nearby, get acquainted 
with a carpenter and have him buy the material for you. 
Or, if a new building is being erected in your neighborhood, 
go to the carpenter foreman and see if you cannot buy from 




Fig. 10. — Front View of Work-Bench 



him what is needed. Two-by-ten floor joists will be just 
the thing for the top planking. 

The Framework is shown in Fig. 13, a front view of the 
completed bench is shown in Fig. 10 and an end view in 
Fig. 11. If you are less than 4 feet 6 inches tall, I would 
suggest that you make your bench 28 inches high instead 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 




of the height given in Fig. n. This will mean cutting the 
legs 4 inches shorter than the given dimensions. 

The end frames 

of the framework H^ 

should be con- -r- ^ * * ~p\\ \~Hs 

structed first (Fig. 
12). Spike cross- 
pieces B to the top 
of legs A, and nail 
rails C to the side 
of the legs 3 inches 
above the bottom. 
Test the corners 
formed by legs A and I l 
cross pieces B, and 
when they prove to 
be exact right 

angles, nail on the diagonal braces D. Cut these braces 
longer than is necessary, so that after nailing them in 
position you can saw off their ends flush with the sides 
of the legs. Having completed the frames, cut rails F and 
nail them to the legs on a line with lower rails C (Fig. 13). 
Then measure the distance between the frames at their tops, 
nail a board across crosspieces B to hold the tops at exactly 
the same distance apart as the lower ends, and after testing 
the end frames to see that they stand perfectly vertical, 
nail on the diagonal braces G. 

Ten-inch stuff planed upon all edges usually measures 
between 9^ and 9^ inches in width. Therefore, three 



Fig. 11. — Left-End View of Work-Bench 



THE HOME WORK-BENCH 




pieces placed side by side, with 
the front plank projecting % inch 
over the end frames, to allow for 
the thickness of apron E (H, Figs. 
10 and n), will be of just the right 
width for the bench-top. Make 
the projections over the ends of 
the framework equal, and spike 
the planks to crosspieces B. Drive 
the nail heads about Y 2 inch below f 
the surface, so your edge tools will L 
not come in contact with them. 
Figure 10 shows how the ends of 
apron E should be trimmed off. 
Nail the apron to the bench legs. 

The Bench- Vise is the next 
portion to construct. You need an iron bench-screw like 
that in Fig. 15 for the vise. This can be purchased at the 
hardware store. You can make the rest of the vise by 
following the details of Figs. 11, 14, 15, 16, and 17. 

The jaw (I, Fig. 14) is a piece of 2 by 6. Mark it out as 
shown in Fig. 17, with the lower end drawn so as to be 
sawed off on a diagonal, the left-hand edge so as to be 
notched to receive the sliding-strip /, and the top so as to 
be beveled on the face side. The sliding-strip / is a guide 
for the lower end of the vise jaw. With a peg to fit in its 
holes, this strip provides a means for keeping the bottom of 
the jaw directly under the top. Without this attachment, 
it would be impossible to clamp work in the vise, because 



Fig. 12. — Detail of End Frame 



io CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

the jaw would push in at the bottom, and could not be made 
to set squarely against your work. The holes in the sliding- 
strip should be H inch in diameter, and they should be 
staggered as shown, with their centers placed i% inches 




Fig. 13. — Detail of Completed Framework, Showing Bracing 

apart. The sleeve through which the sliding-strip slides 
(Figs, io, ii, and 14) is made by nailing one end of a strip 
K to rail C, and the other end to a block L of the same 
thickness as C, fastened $}4 inches above rail C. Suspend 
a peg (M, Fig. 14) from block L by a cord tied to screw-eyes 
screwed into the end of the peg and block L. 

To Attach the Bench-Screw, slip sliding-strip J through 



THE HOME WORK-BENCH 



ii 



its sleeve and push the jaw up against apron E; then, 7 
inches below the top of the jaw, mark the center for the hole 
through which the bench-screw is to turn, and cut a hole at 
this point through the jaw, through the apron and through 
the bench leg. This hole should be 1 3^ inches in diameter. 




Fig. 14 



Fig. 16 



Fig. 14. — Completed Bench- Vise 

Fig. 15. — Iron Bench-Screw 

Fig. 16. — Threaded Iron Socket and Wooden Block in which it is Mounted 

Fig. 17. — Detail of Vise Jaw and Sliding-Strip 



If you haven't an expansive-bit which can be set to cut a 
hole of this diameter, bore several small holes, and with a 
chisel connect them, making one large hole. The iron 
socket which comes with the bench-screw (N, Fig. 16) must 



12 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

be fastened to the back of the bench leg. If the threads on 
the bench-screw run close to the handle end as shown in 
Fig. 15, the hole in the bench-leg can be enlarged and the 
socket set into the hole, but the threads upon some bench- 
screws stop 3 inches from the handle end, and, if you get 
one of these, it will be necessary to set the iron socket into 
a wooden block (0, Fig. 16), and spike this block to the 
back of the leg (Fig. 11); if this is not done, the vise jaw 
cannot be screwed up close to the face of the jaw, and the 
vise cannot be closed. Screw the iron collar on the handle 
end of the bench-screw to the face of the jaw. 
. The wooden handle that comes with a bench-screw (Fig. 
15) is not of much account, because the constant sliding 
through the iron sleeve, from end to end, loosens the ends, 
making it necessary to glue them on every now and then. 
A better handle is a piece of broom-handle 16 inches long 
with a large screw-eye screwed into each end,' like that 
shown in Fig. 14. The author uses a handle of this form 
on his vise, as you will see by Fig. 8. 

Peg Supports for Work. Upon the front of the bench 
apron E, two rows of holes about % inch in diameter should 
be bored, as shown in Fig. 10, and a peg (P, Fig. 10) should 
be whittled to fit each row. Suspend the pegs by cords, 
so they will always be within reach when wanted. The 
purpose of these pegs is to support the right-hand end of 
long pieces of work; they can be adjusted to the holes which 
will suit the width of the piece of work placed in the vise. 

A Bench-Stop on the top of the bench is very useful to 
push the end of work against when you cannot or do not 



THE HOME WORK-BENCH 13 

wish to place the work in the vise. A block of wood screwed 
to the bench-top will do (H, Figs. 3 and 4), but an adjustable 
iron stop can be purchased at the hardware store which 
will be handier. 
You will get some ideas for the arrangement of 
Tool -Cabinets and Tool -Racks from the photograph of 
the author's shop (Fig. 8), but, as stated at the beginning 
of this chapter, you are referred to The Boy Craftsman, 
Handicraft for Handy Boys, and The Handy Boy for 
instructions for making them. 





CHAPTER II 
SCROLL-SAW PROBLEMS 



It is not necessary to have a scroll-saw for the scroll-saw 
problems illustrated and described in this chapter. In fact, 
most of the scroll-saw work now done by boys is with a 
hand bracket-saw like that shown in Fig. 18, or with the 




Fig. 18.— 
A Bracket-Saw 



Fig. 19 — 
A Coping- Saw 



slightly different form of saw shown in Fig. 19, known as a 
coping-saw. The cheaper makes of bracket-saws can be 
purchased for 10 cents, and a dozen saw blades — you will 
need a dozen as they are slender and easily broken — cost 
10 cents. A good coping-saw costs in the neighborhood of 

14 



SCROLL-SAW PROBLEMS 15 

a dollar, and the blades, which are usually not as delicately 
made as bracket-saw blades, cost 5 cents apiece. A foot- 
power scroll-saw costs between $8 and $10. . 

Scroll-saw work may be done outside of a workshop, if 




Fig. 20. — Board Protection for Table-Top 

papers are spread to catch sawdust and wood scraps. You 
can use 

A Table to Cut Upon. The surface must be protected of 
course, so there will be no danger of sawing into it, and 
Fig. 20 shows how to protect it with a board clamped to 
the table top. An iron G-clamp, such as is sold for curtain- 
stretchers can be purchased for 5 cents. Cut two notches 
in the front edge of the protection board, as shown. The 
purpose of the notches is to provide openings for the saw. 
With the block to be sawed placed upon the board, the 
saw can be worked up and down in one notch or the other 



i6 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



without danger of 
splitting the work, 
because the block 
will be supported 
each side of the 
point of cutting. 
Figure 21 shows the 
correct position for 
sawing. Turn the 
piece of work with 
the left hand as the 
cutting progresses. 

If you use your 
work-bench vise to 
hold your work, you 
can place the work 
in a vertical posi- 
tion, and saw horizontally instead of vertically. 

One of the most popular scroll-saw stunts at the present 
time is the making of 

Jig-Saw Picture Puzzles, a form of puzzle with which 
you probably already are acquainted — thin pieces of board 
with pictures mounted upon them, cut up into small irre- 
gular-shaped pieces, which are mixed up, then fitted together 
in the proper manner to make up the picture. They are 
called jig-saw puzzles because, when made in quantity, a 
number of thicknesses of wood are cut at one time, and a 
jig-saw, or form of scroll-saw built for cutting thick 
material, was originally used for the purpose. The 




Fig. 21. — Correct Method of Using the 
Bracket-Saw 



SCROLL-SAW PROBLEMS 



17 



modern band-saw has superseded the jig-saw almost uni- 
versally. 

The Best Wood for scroll-saw work is white-holly veneer 
y s inch thick, but it is expensive, costing about 15 cents a 
square foot, and the wood is not easy to obtain. Next to 




Fig. 22. — How to Cut up a Picture Puzzle 

white-holly, basswood is to be preferred. You can get 
this wood 3/16 inch thick at most planing-mills at 4 or 5 
cents a square foot, and often you can pick up waste scraps 
which the mill-man will let you have for little or nothing. 

The size of wood you can get for picture puzzles will 
determine the size of pictures you can use, and, likewise, 
the size of suitable pictures that you find will determine the 
size of wood mounts. Since picture blocks may warp, and 
large blocks will warp to a greater degree than small ones, 



1 8 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

I would advise the making of small blocks. A standard 
size for store puzzle blocks is 3 by 5 inches, which is large 
enough to cut into as many as twenty-five parts, if you cut 
the pieces small. 

You will have no difficulty finding good 

Picture Material in magazines. Pictures in color are 
preferable to those in black and white. If those you select 
are not printed in color, you can try your hand at paint- 
ing them with water-colors, or tinting them with colored 
crayons. 

Mounting. Mount a picture upon each side of the 
blocks. This will make the puzzles more difficult to assemble 
and the paper will hold the wood flat and prevent its splitting. 
If you mount paper upon only one side, the wood will warp. 
For this reason, it is best to mount paper upon both sides 
of the blocks, even though the paper on one side is a blank 
piece. Use glue or shellac for mounting. Coat the surface 
of the block copiously, put the picture in position, press 
it down, and weight it until dry. To smooth out wrinkles, 
lay a clean piece of paper over the mounted piece, and rub 
the edge of a ruler over the paper. This will squeeze out 
surplus glue. 

Figure 22 suggests 

How To Cut Up a Picture Puzzle. You can draw out 
the cuts upon the mounted picture, or you can decide upon 
the shapes of the cuts as you work, if you wish. The saw 
teeth will leave a rough edge to the cuts, on one side of 
the block, you will find. To prevent the roughness, which 
would spoil the picture upon that side, back the block with 



SCROLL-SAW PROBLEMS 



19 



another thin piece of wood, and hold the two pieces firmly 
together while you cut. 
While making puzzles, let us make a model of 
The T-Puzzle,a famous old puzzle that is more difficult 
to assemble than it 
looks. Figure 23 
shows it put to- 
gether. The key 
to the solution lies 
in properly placing 
the irregular-shaped 
block at the inter- 
section of the ver- 
tical and horizontal 
members of the 
ietter. Once you get 
the position of this, 
the other pieces are easily assembled. 

Full-Size Patterns of the four blocks are given in Fig 24. 




Fig. 23. — The T-Puzzle 




Fig. 24. — Full-Size Patterns for the T-Puzzle Blocks 



20 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



Make a careful tracing of them upon thin paper, and transfer 
the tracings upon a strip of wood. Cut out the pieces care- 




FiG. 25. — The Square Puzzle 




I PIECE -LIKE -THIS 



7- PIECES LIKE THIS 



Fig. 26. — Full-Size Patterns for the Square-Puzzle Blocks 

fully, and smooth the edges with sandpaper, then fit them 
together, and trim up all ends and edges that require it. 
The Square Puzzle, shown correctly assembled in Fig. 25, 



SCROLL-SAW PROBLEMS 



21 



is another interesting puzzle to make. It requires nine 
blocks. Figure 26 shows 




FlG. 27. — Cut the Square Puzzle Blocks out of a Strip like this 

The Patterns. If you will trace off the patterns as shown 
in Fig. 27, with the blocks placed end to end, you can prepare 
a strip of the right width to 
take in the blocks and then saw 
it up. These blocks must be 
carefully finished so they will be 
of exactly the right size, or they 
will not fit together nicely to 
make the square. 

The Prism Puzzle presents 

one of the" most interesting of 

the simpler scroll-saw problems. 

It is easy to make. 

The first thing to do is to pre- 
pare a stick 1 Y 2 inches square. 

The length of the finished block 

will be 4.% inches, but do not 

cut the block to this length 

until after the rest of the cutting 

has been done (Fig. 28). If 

you do separate it, there will 

be no way of keeping the parts Fig. 28. — The Prism Puzzle 




22 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



together while cutting, and there will be nothing to hold the 

block by. 

Plane the sides of the stick square and smooth, and 

square off one end. Mark off the distance of ^yi inches 

from the squared end, upon each 
side of the block. Then draw the 
curves shown in Fig. 29 upon two 
adjacent sides of the block, mak- 
ing a tracing of the pattern and 
transferring it to the block. 

In cutting, it will be best to 
support the block in a vertical po- 
sition, and cut down as shown in 
Fig. 30. There are two important 
things to do. Hold the saw so that 
the blade will cut horizontally and 
always parallel to the sides of the 
block, and cut exactly upon the 
lines. 

Figure 31 shows the nine blocks 
into which the block is separated 
in the process of cutting. The 
center piece is the only piece that 
is irregularly shaped on all four 
sides; therefore, this is the piece to 
begin with in assembling the block. 
Find two pieces that will fit upon 
opposite sides of it, and fit the three 

Fig. 29.— Full- Size Pattern for rr ' 

Cutting Prism Puzzle Blocks pieces together. Then find three 




SCROLL-SAW PROBLEMS 



23 



pieces that will fit together each side of the center three 
pieces, slip them into position, and the block will be put 
together. There is a trick to locking the pieces one inside 
another, even when 
the correct positions 
have been discovered 
You must get the 
knack of putting 
them together 
through experiment- 
ing. 

A Seven-Piece Set 
of Doll Furniture. 
You would hardly 
imagine that out of 
the little block of 
wood shown in Fig. 
32, a seven-piece set 
of doll-furniture can 
be cut by making six 
saw cuts, yet this is ' ' *--—■■' 

the way the doll furniture shown in Figs. 37 to 43 was pre- 
pared. Stand the pieces of furniture upon a table, and 
ask a friend to fit them together so as to form a symmetrical 
block, and the friend will think that you are joking. By 
comparing the letters on the pieces of furniture, with the 
letters on the block shown in Fig. 32, you will see how the 
pieces fit within one another. 

The block should be free from knots and cracks. White 




Fig. 30. — Do not Cut the 
Prism Block to the Right 
Length until after the 
Other Cutting has been 
done. Additional Length 
is Needed to Hold the 
Separate Parts Together. 



24 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



pine is best, but other clear wood will do. Cut the block 
to the dimensions shown in Fig. 33, planing its surfaces 






Fig. 31. — The Nine Blocks into which the Prism is to be Cut 

straight and smooth. Then upon the two faces and the 
two sides mark off the lines on which to cut. Draw these 
lines exactly as indicated. The corners of the cuts are 



SCROLL-SAW PROBLEMS 



25 




Saw the Block along the Heavy 
Lines; and you will have the Seven-Piece Set 
of Doll Furniture Shown in Figs. 37-43 



shown rounded, because it is necessary to round them in 

turning the corners with the saw blade. 
The first piece to cut out is the table (Fig. 37). Figure 34 

shows how this is re- 
moved from the block. 

The next step is to 

separate the remainder 

of the block into two 

equal parts by sawing 

along the heavy line 

indicated in Fig. 34, 

which will give you 

the two blocks shown fig. 32 

in Fig. 35. By now 

cutting from each of 

these blocks first the block C (Fig. 36), then the block D, 

you will have produced the two chairs B (Figs. 38 and 41), 

the two stools C 
(Figs. 39 and 42), 
and the two ta- 
bourets D (Figs. 
40 and 43). In 
Figs. 34 and 35, 
only one cut is 
indicated on each, 
the lines of the 
other cuts being 
omitted to save 
confusion of lines. 

Fig. 33. — Dimensions for Block 




26 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



Unless you do the marking and sawing very accurately, 
you will find it impossible to interlock the pieces except 
when they are turned in the direction of the positions 




Fig. 34. — The First Cut. 
Block A is the Table 



FlG. 35. — The Second Cut. 
B are Chairs 



Blocks 



originally occupied. Although it is well to do the cutting 
as accurately as possible, if the pieces will fit only one way 
you will have a puzzle all the more difficult to assemble. 
A fad for one's room is to have brightly colored 



SCROLL-SAW PROBLEMS 



27 



Bird and Animal Cut- Outs perched upon embroidery- 
hoop swings. Figure 44 shows a monkey-in-swing cut-out 
and Fig. 45 a parrot-in-swing cut-out, both of which are 
easily prepared. 




Fig. 36. — Each Chair Base has the Stool C 
and Tabouret D Cut Out of it 



To simplify the work of drawing the parrot and monkey, 
patterns are shown in Figs. 46 and 47, that can be reproduced 
easily to the size desired by the process of enlarging by 
squares. Take a piece of wrapping-paper, and cut it 
exactly 73^ inches wide by n inches long, being careful to 
get the corners square. Then with a ruler mark off %-mch 
divisions along each edge, and connect opposite division 
points with straight lines. Your sheet of paper will now 
be filled with squares similar to the diagram of Figs. 46 and 



28 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 




Figs. 37-43. — The Seven-Piece Set of Doll Furniture Completed 



SCROLL-SAW PROBLEMS 



29 






Fig. 44. — The Monkey-in-the- 
Swing Cut-Out 



Fig. 45. —The Parrot-in-the- 
Swing Cut-Out 



3 o CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
A B C O E F G H I O K L M N O P. 




Fig. 46. — One-Half-Size Pattern Fig. 47. — One-Half-Size Pattern 

for Monkey Cut-Out for Parrot Cut-Out 



SCROLL-SAW PROBLEMS 



3i 



47. There will be exactly the same number of squares, 
but they will be twice the size of those in the diagram. 
Letter the vertical lines across the top edge, and number 
the horizontal lines along one side, as shown. With the 
sheet thus prepared, it will only be necessary to locate within 
Fig. 48 Fig. 49 




kAM 



A-yA^co^ A 




I* — I"— H 





Fig. 52 



Figs. 48 and 49. — How the Monkey's Feet and the Parrot's Claws are 

Supported in the Swing 
Fig. 50. — Pattern for Balancing Points 
Figs. 51 and 52. — How the Tails are Weighted 



the squares what is indicated within corresponding squares 
on the diagram. 

When the large patterns have been drawn, cut them out, 
and trace them off upon the wood they are to be cut out of. 



32 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

In sawing out the pieces, care must be taken not to split 
off small projections. After cutting, sandpaper the edges. 

Buy 1 2-inch oval embroidery-hoops for swings, and use 
ribbon to suspend them by. The monkey's feet do not 
stand upon the hoop. The balancing block A (Figs. 48 and 
50) is inserted in a notch cut in the feet, and the points of 
this piece of wood rest upon the hoop. To make the monkey 
balance upon the perch, the tail must be weighted, and the 
best way of weighting it is by gluing a No. 3 skirt-weight to 
each side (B, Fig. 51). The parrot's claws grasp a balancing 
block (A, Fig. 49), which rests upon the hoop, and the tail 
is weighted like the monkey's (Fig. 52). 

Paint the monkey and parrot in bright colors, also the 
hoops. Enamel paint in colors, prepared for this sort of 
painting, can be purchased at paint stores, and this is pre- 
ferable to flat paint. 




Every boy has right at hand the materials necessary 
for making splendid Christmas gifts, in the empty 
spools from mother's work-basket, boards from grocery 
boxes, nails, and one or two other things that are to 
be found in every household. 

A handful of spools of assorted shapes and sizes will 
suggest a hundred possibilities for suitable gifts for 
each friend and relative whom you wish to remember. 
The illustrations in this chapter show a variety of 
useful articles, in the making of each of which one or 
more spools were used, and, once you start work upon 
duplicating these, you will discover quite as many more 
ideas for simple gifts. 

The Candle-stick in Fig. 53 is made by mounting a 
small silk-thread spool upon the end of a large ribbon 
spool, then mounting the ribbon spool upon a small 
square block. The base block may be cut from a box 
board. Make it about 1 inch wider each way than the 
diameter of the spool end, and nail it to the end of the 
spool as indicated in Fig. 59, with an equal projection 
all around the spool. Fasten the small spool to the 
end of the large spool with a short piece of pencil, or 

33 



34 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



a round peg whittled to the same size. Coat this 
piece of pencil or peg with glue, than push it through 
the hole in the small spool and down into the hole in 
the large spool, allowing about y 2 inch of its end to 

project above the top of the 
short spool. A hole just large 
enough for this peg to fit 
snugly in must be cut in the 
end of the candle (Fig. 59). 
Heat the top of the pencil be- 
fore pressing the candle upon 
it, to make the candle stick. 

Finishing. A brown stain 
produces a pretty finish for 
articles made of spools. A 
small quantity can be pur- 
chased from a paint dealer for 
ten or fifteen cents. Follow 
the directions that accompany 
it. An application of nothing 
but boiled linseed oil also 
makes a pretty finish. 

After staining the candle- 
stick, glue a piece of felt to 
the under side of the base to 
prevent its scratching surfaces 
that it is placed upon. 
The Desk Calendar shown in Fig. 54 requires a 
small calendar-pad, a block upon which to mount the 



c 



TJ= 



D 




Fig. 59. — How the Candle- 
Stick is Put Together 




Fig. 56.— A Pen-Rack 



Fig. 57. — A Desk Blotter 




Fig. 51. — A Desk Calendar 



,/ 



Fig. 58. 
A Paper-Knife 



Fig. 53. — A Candle-Stick 



Fig. 55. — A Stationery-Rack 



SPOOL GIFTS 



35 



pad, and two short silk-thread spools for feet. A 
calendar-pad 2 inches wide and 3 inches long will cost 
five cents. 

Cut the back block out of a box-board, enough larger 
than the pad to make a >^-inch margin all around it. 
Nail spool feet to the 
lower edge of the back 
(Fig. 60), and fasten 
the calendar in place 
with small tacks. 

The Stationery-rack 
(Fig. 55) is built up 
of four cotton-thread 
spools of equal size, four 
short silk-thread spools 
of equal size, and a piece Fig. 60. — How the spool Feet are 
of a box board 3 inches Attached to the Calendar Board 
wide by 5 inches long. First, nail the piece of board 
to the ends of the four long spools, then nail the four 
short spools to the other side of the board, directly 
under the long spools, for feet. Bits of felt may be 
glued to the under side of the feet, to prevent them 
from scratching. 

The Pen-rack shown in Fig. 56 is made of a strip of 
wood 6 inches long, $4 inch wide, and % inch thick 
(Fig. 61), with a medium-sized spool mounted upon 
each end. Cut the strip slanted on the ends, and nail 
to the sides of the spools in the manner shown in 
Fig. 61. 




36 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



Only one spool is used for 

The Desk Blotter (Fig. 57), that one forming the 
handle (A, Fig. 62). The base block (B, Fig. 62) is a 
piece of a box- 
board 2y 2 inches 
by 5 inches in- 
size, and the 
block C is 2]/ 2 in- 
ches long and 1 
inch wide. Get 
a screw long 
enough to ex- 
tend through 




Fig. 61. — Nail the Base of the Pen-Rack to the 
Sides of the Spools, like this 



handle A, through block C, 
and part way into base 
block B (a screw with a 
round head will look neat- 
est,) and screw the three 
pieces together. If the 
screw-head is smaller than 
the hole in the spool handle, 
support it by a small metal 
washer slipped over the 
screw. 

Figure 62 shows how the 
blotter is cut to fit the 
bottom of the base block, 
and folded up over the end 

of the Blotter-Pad in Place to the Center of the top. 




Fig. 62.— Block C holds the Blotter 



SPOOL GIFTS 



37 



The ends are held to the base by block C. To 
release the ends for changing the blotter, it is only nec- 
essary to give block C a half turn, so that it extends 
lengthwise of the base block. Pad the blotter with an 
extra piece of blotting-paper slipped between it and 
base block B. 

One end of the spool used for the handle of 

The Paper-knife (Fig. 58) must be whittled down 
until even with the 
sides. Cut the 
knife blade from 
a stick, and make 
it about 7 inches 
long and y 2 inch 
wide, with its edges 
whittled thin and 
sharp. Cut the 
handle end to fit 
the hole in the 
spool handle, and 
fasten it in this 
hole with glue. 

The Paper-spin- 
dle (Fig. 63) is of a 

convenient size for a desk. A 4-inch wire nail, a short 
silk-thread spool, a base block 2 inches square, and a 
piece of felt for the under side of the base, are the mate- 
rials you need to make it. Enlarge the opening in one 
end of the spool so the head of the nail will fit down 




Fig. 63, — A Paper-Spindle 



38 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



into it. Then drop the nail through the hole, nail the 
base to the under side of the spool, and glue the felt to 
the base. 




Fig. 66. — Glue the Pencil End 
in the Spool Hole 





Fig. 67. — Bind the Razor-Blade Between 
the Pencil Halves 





Fig. 65 — The Ripper 



Fig. 64 — A Toothpick Holder 



The Toothpick Holder (Fig. 64) is large enough for 
eight or nine toothpicks. After staining the spool, 
glue felt or cardboard to one end to form a bottom to 
the holder. 



SPOOL GIFTS 



39 



Every woman needs 

A Ripper for the sewing cabinet, and Fig. 65 shows 
one that is easily made. One of father's safety-razor 
blades, a short piece of pencil, and a spool (A, B, and C, 
Fig. 66) are required to make it. 

Split the pencil into 
halves, remove the 
lead, and notch the 
edges in two places near 
one end, spacing the 
notches the same dis- 
tance apart that the 
holes in the razor blade 
are spaced (Fig. 67). 
Slip the blade between 
the pencil halves, and 
bind in place with 

strong linen thread passed through the holes and around 
the notches in the pencil. Then glue the free end of 

the pencil into the 
hole in the spool 
handle, and the 
little knife will be 
ready for use. The 
end hole in the 
blade may be used 
as a means of hang- 
ing the knife on a nail in a sewing cabinet. 

The Hatpin- Holder illustrated in Fig. 68 is made of 




. — A Hatpin- 
Holder 




Fig. 69. — A Necktie- Rack 



40 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

three spools of equal size, fastened end to end with 
brads. Tie a loop of narrow baby ribbon to the top 
spool, in the manner shown, to provide for hanging 
the holder upon the wall. 

The Necktie-rack (Fig. 69) is made of a ribbon spool 
slipped over a stick 16 inches long, with a piece of 
ribbon tied to each end of the stick. The stick will be 
held far enough away from the wall by the spool 
flanges, so that neckties can be slipped over it easily. 




It is well to select small articles for Christmas gifts, if 
you are going to make a lot of them. Make articles that 
will require little time and material. Then the work will 
not become tiresome nor be expensive. The articles illus- 
trated in this chapter have been selected with these points 
in view. 

Much of the 

Material to be found in a carpenter's waste pile is good 
stuff, too small perhaps for him to bother with, but large 
enough for your purpose. Go to the nearest carpenter shop 
and see what you can get. A friendly sort of carpenter will 
give you his wood scraps, and sell you such larger pieces as 
you may need. White pine, whitewood, basswood, cypress 
and oak are easy to work. Most of the articles illustrated 
on the following pages were made of oak. 

A Stain and Wax Finish is prettiest for small articles. 
Stains in a variety of colors can be purchased in small 
quantities at the paint store, and prepared wax can be 
obtained there, also. Complete instructions for applying 
wood stains accompany them. 

Before finishing the wood, all surfaces must be free from 
saw, chisel and other tool marks, and they must be carefully 

41 



SMALL-GIFTS IN WOOD 



43 



2|lN. 
A" 

I IN 



.5 In. — 



— 1 



Fig. 78. — Base of Post- Card Rack 



4 IN- "H 



of the upright piece of the calendar-board can either be cut 
with a chisel or be filed round. The bevel on the top edge 
of the base block can be made with a plane or chisel. Center 
the upright piece on 
the base block, and 
fasten with brads 
driven through the 
base block. 

The calendar-pad 
should be 2 inches 
wide and 3 % inches 
long, a standard size 
that can be pur- 
chased at two for 
five cents at sta- 
tionery stores. The 
brass screw-hooks 
which screw into the 
front edge of the 
base block, to form 
the pen-rack, should 
be % inch long. 
The wood should be 
stained and waxed 
before the pad and 
the hooks are at- 
tached. A strip of 
fight- weight felt, 

to & ' Fig. 79. — Parts of the Book-Ends Shown in 

broadcloth, or other Fig. 72 




44 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



heavy cloth, glued to the bottom of the base, to prevent 
the base from scratching surfaces it is stood upon, will 
complete the gift. 

The Post-Card Rack, shown in Fig. 71, has a pair of ends of 
the same shape and size as the upright of the calendar-board 
(Fig. 76), but its base is shorter and wider than the calendar- 
board base. The base is shown in Fig. 78. It is fastened 
between the end pieces. 

The Book-Ends shown 
in Fig. 72 make an excel- 
lent rack for a few books 
to stand on the library 
table or the top of a desk. 
There is not much cutting 



J iN.HOLEr 







to be done. Figure 79 

shows dimensions for the 

base, upright and bracket 

pieces that make up an 

end. The dotted lines 

shown on the base and 

upright pieces in the Fig. 80. 

diagram, represent holes. 

These should be bored as indicated, and rilled with melted lead, 

before the pieces are assembled. The purpose of the lead is to 

make the book-ends heavy enough so the pressure of the books 

between them will not upset them. Nail the upright piece 

to the edge of the base piece, and the triangular bracket pieces 

to both the base and the upright. Use 1 -inch nails for nailing. 

Before nailing, coat the edges of the pieces with glue. 



— Parts of the Candle-Stick 
Shown in Fig. 73 



SMALL GIFTS IN WOOD 45 

The Candle -Stick shown in Fig. 73 is made up of six 
blocks of wood of the shapes and sizes shown in Fig. 80. 
The hole for the candle should be bored through the cap 
block and part way in the top of the upright block, before 
the pieces are cut down to the finished- dimensions, so there 
will be little danger of splitting the wood. 

Use glue and %-inch and i-inch brads for assembling 
the pieces. Nail the base block to the under side of the 
upright block, and the cap block to the top; then nail the 
three handle pieces together and fasten them to the base 
block. 

The tray of 

The Match-Holder and Tray shown in Fig. 74 is a tin 
can cover 4 inches in diameter. The author is wandering 
from his chapter subject "Small Gifts in Wood," in present- 
ing this here, because it is made of tin, but he believes that 
the nature of the article warrants his including it among 
the small gifts. A coffee-can cover is of about the right 
size for the tray (A, Fig. 81). The match-holder consists 
of a U-shaped piece of tin (B, Fig. 82), a wooden block (C), 
and the sleeve cover of a safety-match box (D). The 
sleeve cover of the match-box slips between the uprights 
of tin strip B, fitting down over block C. Then the safety- 
matches removed from the box are dropped into the open 
top of the sleeve, as shown in Fig. 74. 

Figure 82 shows the pattern for tin strip B. With an 
old pair of scissors, or tin-snips, cut off the ends of a tin 
can, then cut through the can sides, cutting parallel with 
the side seam, and bend out the tin into a flat strip. Upon 



46 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



the strip mark out a piece of the dimensions given in Fig. 82. 
The dotted lines of the diagram indicate where the tin is 
to be folded. The 
ends are to be turned 
over upon themselves 
and hammered down 
to make stiff upper 
edges, the folds at the 
center are to be right- 
angle folds. In 
making the center 
folds, bend the tin 
over a box edge or 
other sharp edge. Be 
careful to make the 
distance between the 
center folds exactly 
Vz inch, as shown. 

Figure 83 shows 
the dimensions of 
block C. This block 
is of just the right 
size for the match- 
box sleeve-cover to 
slip over. Fasten it 




* — a| — **-$ 

Fig. 81. — Parts of the Match-Holder and Tray 

Shown in Fig. 74 
Fig. 82. — Pattern for U-Shaped Support 
Fie. 83. — Pattern for Base Block 



to tin strip B with tacks, placing it halfway between the 
tin uprights. After fastening strip B to block C, place the 
holder on the center of the tray A and fasten with two 
short nails, as shown. 



SMALL GIFTS IN WOOD 



47 



r 



~ 



A- 



L 



To complete the match-holder and tray, give it a coat 
of radiator bronze or aluminum paint. 

The Egg-Rack shown in Fig. 75 will go in mother's refrig- 
erator, or will stand upon her pantry shelf. Figure 84 
shows a side view of 
the rack, Fig. 85 
shows a plan of the 
shelf B which sup- 
ports the eggs, and 
Fig. 86 shows one of 
the end pieces A. 

Prepare end A 
first. To save you 
trouble in marking 
out the ends, a 
pattern of the hen 
is shown in Fig. 86, 
one-half full-size. 
It will only be nec- 
essary to reproduce 
this twice the size 
shown. The squares 
drawn checker- 
board fashion upon 
the pattern will 
make enlarging easy. 
Rule of! upon your 
working material a 
similar series of squares, but make them y 2 inch square 



t^Tj- 



Fig. 84. — Side View of Egg- Rack 
Shown in Fig. 75 




Fig: 85. — Diagram of Shelf 



4 8 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



instead of \i inch. Letter the top ends of the vertical lines, 

and number one end of each horizontal line, as shown. 

Then, upon the enlarged squares reproduce the lines exactly 

as they are shown upon the small squares. The letters and 

numbers will help 

you locate quickly 

the large squares 

that correspond 

to the small 

squares. Cutting 

out these pieces 

makes a good 

scroll-saw exercise. 

If you haven't a 

scroll-saw, a hand 

bracket-saw (Fig. 

1 8) or coping-saw 

(Fig. 19) will do 

the work nicely. 

Basswood is good \% 

material to use for |g 

these pieces, but 

you can use any 

other firm piece 




Fig. 



, — Pattern of End-Pieces of Egg- Rack 
Shown in Fig. 75 



of wood that will hold together without splitting or chipping. 
Figure 85 shows a diagram of the upper shelf of the rack. 
If you haven't a bit large enough for boring holes of the 
required size, bore a ring of holes with a small bit, split out 
the wood between the holes with a chisel, and trim up to 




Fig. 90. — Electric-Lighted Watch Bask. 




Fig 89.— Necktie- or Towel-Rack. 







T 



IOC 



SMALL GIFTS IN WOOD 



49 



siN~*-y^£ 



in... Am. . 
vV^ 8 Am 









5 

00 



the circumference of the large hole with a chisel or jack-knife; 
then smooth up the hole with a rat-tail file and sandpaper. 
The lower shelf or brace (C, Fig. 84) need not be more than 
2 yi inches wide. 
Fasten together the pieces with glue and finishing-nails, 
en sandpaper all surfaces carefully, and give the rack a 
uple of coats of shellac. 
Figure 87 shows 
A Desk Tele- 
one Directory 
at is handy for 
v Ding in readi- 
for instant 
ence, in al- 
betical order, 
names and tel- 
lone numbers 
persons called 
e or less fre- 
ently, and num- 
s subject to call 
imergencies. 
figure 91 shows 
ase A of the card- 
ack, upright B, 

,nd the groove strips C which form the card pocket. Pieces 
A and B can be cut out of material 34 _mcn thick. Cut the 
rabbets in the edges of strips C with a chisel. Fasten 
upright B to the center of base A with glue and brads, and 





*- 



Fig. 91. — Parts of 



-|,N. 

A 



^ 






Telephone Direct- 
ory Shown in Fig. 
87 



k- 



JA 



•3i 



IN. 



5° 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



fasten strips C to upright B so the lower ends rest on base A, 
and so the groove rabbets are 2^5 inches apart, which will 
allow plenty of clearance space for the directory cards. 

Figure 92 is a diagram of the twenty-four directory cards. 
It shows the size of each card, and how to cut the index tabs. 
If you cannot get 
light-weight cards 
for the directory, 
cut up stiff writing- 
paper as a substi- 
tute. The twenty- 
four cards must be 
enough less than y% 
inch thick so they 
will slip in and out 
of the rack easily. 

This same form 
of rack can be used 
for 

A Time -Card 
Rack, to hold sub- 
urban time-cards 
for handy reference. 



r 
1 

Hcnj 

r 
t 


b 2 >-^ 


"^1— am™. 


B 


T 

z 
-loo 

I 


no_ 






1 


HI 


r_i_ 


1. 
1 


SI 




T 

z 

colco 

•? 

i 


r_i_ 







TL, 



VI 




1 WL I 



Fig. 92. 



Cards for Telephone Directory 
Shown in Fig. 87 



Instead of preparing strips for the 
card pocket, you can screw four brass screw-hooks into 
upright B at the points indicated in Fig. 91. The hooks 
will hold the edges of one or two time-cards as satisfactorily 
as the strips would. 

A Wall Telephone Directory, or a wall time-card rack, 
can be made by reducing base A to a width of 1 inch, and 



SMALL GIFTS IN WOOD 



Si 



fastening a hanger at the top of upright B and another at 
the bottom, for fastening to the wall. 

The Necktie-Rack shown in Fig. 88 is an improvement 
upon the usual form of rack, because there is only one center 
support for the tie-rod, which leaves the ends open, and 
makes it easy to slip ties on and off the rack. 



iflNr- 




Fig. 93. — Parts of Necktie-Rack Shown in Fig. 88 



Figure 93 shows diagrams of back block A, bracket 
block B, and tie-rod C. A carpenter's dowel-stick is 
required for rod C. The bevelled edge of back block A 
can be cut either with a plane or a chisel. Fasten the rod 
in the bracket hole with glue, being careful to center it 
exactly, and fasten a hanger to the top of back block A 
and another to the bottom. Small screw-eyes will do for 
hangers. Regular picture-frame hangers can be bought at 
the hardware store. 



52 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

The Necktie- or Towel-Rack shown in Fig. 89 has a 
16-inch tie-rod, and this is supported by a pair of brackets, 
each made like bracket B (Fig. 93). The back board is 
shown in Fig. 94, and the centers for the bracket blocks 
indicated on it. 

An Electric -Lighted Watch Base like the one shown in 
Fig. 90 makes an attractive little clock for chiffonier or 
dresser. It was designed to hold a watch from bed-time 
till get-up-time. A small electric-lamp, operated by a dry- 
battery, and controlled from the bed by a push-botton 



7 ^ W. ^|,«(c 




fe- lflN-f- if IN.T>] *l 

1 I fi 







Fig. 94. — Back for Necktie or Towel-Rack Shown in Fig. 89 

illuminates the watch-face. With the addition of a calendar 
mounted beneath the electric-lamp socket, this little sentinel 
stands in constant readiness to give information as to the 
time of the day, and the day of the week and the month. 

Working-drawings of the parts of the battery-case are 
shown in Figs. 95 and 96, and Fig. 97 shows how the parts 
are assembled. Front piece A (Fig. 95) is grooved near the 



SMALL GIFTS IN WOOD 



53 



side edges to receive the edges of side pieces B. If you 
haven't an expansive-bit with which to cut the watch-face 
opening, bore several small holes, split out the wood between 




h — 



4 IN.- 



TzzzzlMk 



— 3 t ,N ^dfz±r!y 



^mzzzzzzzzzzzzm •*&. 



$Sjb 



Fig. 95. — Front A, Sides B, and Back C, D of Electric-Lighted Watch 
Base Shown in Fig. 90 



the holes, and trim up to the circumference of the i^-inch 
opening with a chisel. Side pieces B are grooved near the 
rear edge to receive the sliding-back C. The edges of 
sliding-back C are rabbeted as shown in the cross-section of 



54 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



Fig. 95, to slide in the grooves in sides B. Strip B, nailed 
to the top of sliding-back C (Fig. 97), forms a lift for raising 
the sliding-back. Strip D and piece E form the top to the 
case. Dimensions for top piece E are given in Fig. 96, as 
are also dimensions for base block F. Base F is grooved 
to receive the lower ends of front A and sides B. The 




1 1 ■ (■ 



Fig. 96. — Top E, Base F, Watch Support G, and Spring Attachment 
H, I, U, of Electric-Lighted Watch Base Shown in Fig. 90 



cross-section drawing in Fig. 96 shows the size of the grooves. 
Cut all grooves with a small chisel. 

Block G (Figs. 96 and 97) forms the bottom of the watch 
pocket. Fasten it below the opening in the watch front, 
as shown in Fig. 97. The back of the watch-pocket is a 
circular piece of wood (H, Fig. 96). In order to keep the 



SMALL GIFTS IN WOOD 



55 




Fig. 97. — Detail Showing How Watch Base is Assembled; also Battery, 
Lamp, Push-Button, Cord, and Connections of Same 

watch close to the front of the case, there must be a spring 
back of it. Use a piece of the main-spring of an old alarm- 
clock ( U, Figs. 96 and 97). Fasten one end of the spring 
to the back of block H, the other end to a strip /. Fasten 



56 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

strip / to the inside of front piece A (Fig. 97), at the right 
height to bring disk H directly back of the watch opening. 

Having grooved and rabbeted the parts as shown, it is 
not much of a trick to assemble the battery-case. Glue 
alone will suffice to hold grooved joints, but a brad or two 
in addition will not go amiss. Drive in the brads carefully, 
and drive their heads slightly beneath the surface of the 
wood so they can be concealed later with putty. 

After you have completed the case, it is well to put the 
finish on the wood before installing the lamp, battery, etc. 
When the finish has been applied, glue a piece of light- 
weight felt, or heavy cloth, to the under side of the base, 
as a protection to surfaces on which the watch-base will 
stand. 

The Electric -Light Attachment requires a miniature brass 
wall-plate {J, Fig. 97), a brass right-angle nipple (K), a 
miniature lamp-socket (L, M, N) , a 1 %-volt mazda lamp (0), 
a dry-battery cell (P), 3 yards of flexible silk-covered double- 
conductor lamp-cord (Q and R), and a pear-shaped push- 
button (S, T). The manner in which the connections are 
made is shown in Fig. 97. Two small holes must be bored 
through the front of the battery- case, as shown, the upper 
hole for the wires connected with the lamp to run through, 
the lower hole for the wires leading from lamp and battery 
to push-button, to run through. 

If your battery dry-cell fits too snugly in its case, hollow 
out the inside face of the sliding-back C a trifle, as indicated 
by dotted lines in Fig. 95. 




CHAPTER V 
A PAPER-BALER 




The ease with which waste-paper can be baled with a 
home-made paper-baler like that described in this chapter, 
recommends its use in every home. The baler compresses 
paper into compact bales that require little storage space; 
therefore, a large enough number of bales can be accumu- 
lated, before calling in the junk-dealer, to make a sale that 





Fig. 98.— The Paper-Baler after Binding-Cords Fig. 99.— The Paper-Baler 

have been Adjusted, Waste Paper Thrown in, with Front Removed. The 

the Compressor Board Put in Place, and the Bale is now Ready for 

Compressor- Lever Thrown over, Pushed Down Tying 
and Locked 

will be worth while. The possession of a baler will encourage 
the conservation of waste-paper, will lessen the temptation 
to destroy it. 

After you have built a paper-baler for home use, see if 
your neighbors would not like to have you make one for them. 

57 



58 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 




Fig. 100. —The Paper-Baler with Lever Raised and the Bound Bale 

Removed 

Figure 98 shows the baler after the binding cords have 
been adjusted, waste-paper has been thrown into the recep- 
table, the compressor board placed on top, and the com- 
pressor lever thrown over, pushed down and fastened. 
Figure 99 shows the baler with its front removed. The 
binding-cord should now be tied. Figure 100 shows the 

lever raised and the 
bound bale removed. 
Figure 101 is a 
longitudinal section 
through the baler, 
and Fig. 102 is a 
cross-section. Figure 
103 shows the parts 
unassembled, with 
their relative posi- 
tions indicated. You 
will find the dimen- 
sions upon Figs. 101 
and 102. 




Fig. 101. — Longitudinal Section of Baler 



A PAPER-BALER 



59 



Perhaps you can get a box of the 
The Base of the Baler, the parts 
B, and C in Fig. 103. This 
must be of the right size to 
hold newspapers folded in half. 
The bottom must project 1 inch 
beyond end pieces A, as shown. 
When these parts have been 
assembled, cut the four end 
strips D, and nail two to each 
of the end pieces A, placing 
the rear strips even with the 
back edge of board B, and the 
front strips with their front 



right size for 

of which are lettered A, 




Fig. 




Fig. 103. — How the Parts are Assembled 



15'^ A 

102. — Cross-Section of Baler 



edge projecting 1 
inch beyond end 
pieces A . Cut 
board E (Fig. 103) 
to fit between the 
rear pair of strips 
D. Cut the four 
strips F, 1 inch 
square, by a length 
equal to the width 
of board E, and 
fasten one in each 
of the corners 
formed by board 
E and strips D, 



6o 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



and one to each of the front pair of strips D flush with the 
front edge of end pieces A. The latter pair of strips com- 
plete the inner face of the slide for sliding-front H; the 
slide is completed by strips G, nailed to the front edge of 
strips D. Make sliding-front H to fit loosely in the slides. 
The Compressor Top (/, Fig. 103) is made of the right 
size to fit loosely between strips F. Fasten the boards 
together with a pair of battens (K). 




Fig. 
106 



Fig. 104 

Fig. 104. — The Compressor Lever 

Fig. 105. — How the Compressor Lever is Pivoted 

Fig. 106. — How the Compressor Lever is Held Down 

The Compressor Lever (L, Fig. 104) is a wooden bar 1^ 
inches square and 3 feet long. Bore a 3^-inch hole 2 inches 
from one end, and pivot the bar with a 3^-inch carriage-bolt 
6 inches long (M, Fig. 105), supported by a pair of screw- 
eyes ( N) screwed into strips D 3 inches above the top edge 



A PAPER-BALER 61 

of end pieces A. Round off the free end of the lever for a 
handle (Fig. 106), attach a short piece of chain to a screw- 
eye screwed into it, and drive several nails into the end of 
the baler box opposite to that on which the lever is pivoted, 
to hook the chain on to (Fig. 106). This holds the lever 
down when the paper has been compressed. 

How the Paper-Baler is Operated. Cords for tying the 
bale of paper must be arranged inside of the baler before the 
paper is thrown in. These cords must be very strong so 
there will be no danger of their breaking. Pass the cords 
around rods Q in the bottom of the baler, and around rods 
5 on the under side of the compressor top (Figs. 101 and 
102). Rods Q slip through holes bored through the ends 
of the baler (Fig. 100), and the inner ends slip through 
screw-eyes P (Figs. 101 and 102) ; rods 6* are of the length 
of top 7, and they slip through screw-eyes R. 

After enough paper to make a bale has been compressed, 
and the compressor-lever has been fastened down, remove 
the sliding-front of the baler, and tie the binding cords, then 
withdraw rods Q (Fig. 101), remove the bale from the box, 
and withdraw rods S. The compressor top must be lifted 
out with the bale, because the rods S cannot be withdrawn 
until after the bale and top have been taken out. 

Crushed paper, and torn bits of paper compress into a 
surprisingly small bulk. A dozen times, probably, you will 
put into the baler what you think is enough paper to make 
a bale, and even after the twelfth time find room for more. 
When small pieces of paper are being baled, a newspaper or 
other large piece of paper must be placed in the bottom of 



62 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

the baler, for the start of the bale, and another large piece 
must be placed on top, to hold in the small pieces. After a 
bale has been removed from the baler, tie a heavy cord 
around it endwise, to reinforce the other two bindings. 




The kitchen contrivances described upon following pages 
will be helpful to mother, and if they please her you will 
probably find that they will also please neighbors, and 




Fig. 107. — 
Kitchen Clock- 
Shelf 



Fig. 108. — Diagram 
of Shelf and Bracket 



right here open up possibilities for a profitable home manu- 
facturing business. What you can make out of the work 
will depend largely upon how much ability you have as a 
salesman, but your craftsmanship will count for a great 
deal, because attractiveness in the appearance of articles 
goes a long ways towaids helping sell them. 

63 



64 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

A Kitchen Clock-Shelf like that in Fig. 107 takes little 
time to make, and little material. It requires two pieces 
of wood (A and B, Fig. 108) y% inch thick, by the other 
dimensions shown. Fasten bracket B to top A at the exact 
center of the length, with glue and finishing-nails. 



Fig. 109. — A Kitchen Tool- Rack 

The Finish of the clock-shelf, and the following kitchen 
articles, is a matter to be decided by the person for whom 
they are made. The usual way is to shellac the surfaces, 
first, then apply one or two coats of varnish. But the wood 
can be painted with flat or enamel paint, or stained, or oiled. 
A stained surface should be protected with shellac and 
varnish, for kitchen wear. 



FOR MOTHER'S KITCHEN 



65 



The Tool-Rack in Fig. 109 is most convenient when hung 
directly over the kitchen work-table. The length of the 
hook-strip will be determined by the space in which the 
rack is to hang, and by the number of tools it is to accom- 
modate. The rack's appearance will be improved by 



fRY (oi 


_____=-_ ^1 


III 


CITOfllKCO. || 


(v n ° s, jjti 






1 ___ V 




























































ill • " 1 



Fig. 110 




_A Fig. 
^ 111 



Fig. 110. —A Milk-Card Rack 
Fig. 111. — Detail of Rack 

planing a bevel on the face edges of the hook-strip, also on the 
edges of the end blocks, as in the illustration. 

Use round-head brass screws, screw-hooks, or nails for 
hooks, and screw a screw-eye into the top edge of each end 
block to hang the rack by. 



66 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 




The Milk-Card Rack shown in Fig. no is provided with 
screw-eyes to hang upon hooks outside of the kitchen door. 

Figure in is a 
pattern for the 
board, but because 
milk-cards vary in 
size, you had better 
measure the card 
for which the board 
is to be used, before 
you begin work. 
The margin around 
the card should be 

Fig. 112. -Recipe Cabinet about ag ghown jrf 

Fig. no, which allows for beveling the edge all around. 
Prepare strip A (Fig. in), and fasten it with brads across 
the lower edge of board B for the milk-card to rest upon. 

Screw four screw-hooks into the board at the points 
indicated in Fig. in, just far enough apart for the milk-card 
to slip between, and screw a pair of screw-eyes into the 
top edge of the board for hangers. 

There is no question but that 

A Recipe Filing-Cabinet provides a handier method of 
keeping together recipe clippings taken from magazines 
and newspapers, than a scrapbook, and the envelope system 
used in the cabinet illustrated in Figs. 112 and 113 comes 
pretty close to being a perfect scheme. With an envelope 
provided for ea,ch group of recipes, there is no possibility 
of small clippings becoming lost, and when a recipe in one 



FOR MOTHER'S KITCHEN 



67 



group is wanted, it is a simple matter to lift out the envelope 
bearing that classification. 

The Cabinet can 
be made of cigar- 
box wood, the larger 
pieces, such as the 
top and bottom, of 
two strips glued 
together. As you 
can get cigar-boxes 
at any drug-store, 
for the asking, this 
material can be 




Fig. 113. — Drawer of Recipe Cabinet 



obtained easily. If you prefer to use oak, or a soft wood, 
and can procure thin stuff, %-inch or X-inch thick, well 
and good. 

Figure 114 shows a cross-section through the cabinet and 
drawer, and Figure 115 shows a longitudinal section through 
them. Upon these two drawings you will find every 
measurement necessary for marking out the pieces required. 

The back (A, Fig. 115) is shown 3^-inch thick. This will 
make a stronger cabinet than if cigar-box wood were used, 
and will provide a solid piece to screw the screw-eye hangers 
/ into. Prepare back piece A, then sides B. Nail sides 
B to the ends of back A. Cut bottom C and fasten it 
between sides B, then cut top D and nail it' to the tops of 
back A and sides B. To make a neat piece of cabinet work, 
it is necessary to cut the pieces with square corners and 
square edges; and to make them of the exact measurements 



68 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



H- 



y. - • : ' ■'. ■■ -^ir~z~^: :-T_: :^t ^^i^l^~z i3 



1 



8 



r? 



T 



5 

s 



6^ 









M 



B 






x 



-h 



given. It is also important to obtain square corners in 

assembling the pieces. 

The Drawer front (E, Fig. 115) is the first part of the 

drawer to prepare, then the sides F, the bottom G, and the 

back H. Fasten 
the pieces together 
with glue and brads, 
but not until you 
know that the 
drawer is going to 
fit. You can tack 
the pieces together 
with a few brads, 
temporarily, until 
you are through 
fitting and trim- 
ming. 

The drawer-knob 
(/, Fig. 115) is a 
spool-end, fastened 
with glue and brads. 
Hangers J are 
screw-eyes. 

For the Finish of 
the cigar-box wood 
cabinet, the author 



Fig. 114. 



c 2 

Cross-Section of Recipe Cabinet 




T 

Fig. 115. — Longitudinal Section of 
Recipe Cabinet 



suggests several coats of boiled linseed-oil. 
Figure 116 shows 
The Envelope Containers for recipe clippings, and Fig. 



FOR MOTHER'S KITCHEN 



69 




117 shows how the tabs for classification are pasted to the 
face of the envelopes, in three positions. This cabinet was 
designed for business-size envelopes, which measure 3^ 
inches wide and 6 3^ inches long. 

A Step-Ladder Stool (Fig. 118). The ladder is of just 
the right height for general household use, for washing wood- 
work, or for reach- 
ing upper shelves in 
the pantry. It also 
makes an excellent 
kitchen stool, the 
lower step serving 
the purpose of a 
foot-rest. When 
the ladder-stool is 
not in use, it may 
be folded into the 
compact form shown 
in Fig. 119, and 
stood behind a door 
or in some other 
out - o - he - way 
place. 

- The Ladder con- 
sists of three portions, the steps (Fig. 120), the rear 
legs (Fig. 125), and the seat or top step (Fig. 128). 

The Side Rails of the steps (A, Fig. 120) should be cut 
of the dimensions shown in Fig. 121. Mark the ends to be 
cut to the angle shown, the top to be notched to receive an 



Fig. 116 — Indexed Envelope Con- 
tainer for Recipes 




Fig. 117 



How the Envelope Index Tabs 
are put on 



70 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



end of the crosspiece D (Fig. 120). The diagram shows 
the positions for steps B and C. The steps must pitch at 
the same angle as the rail ends. Groove the side pieces to 
a depth of H inch, to receive the ends of the steps (Fig. 123). 
You will see by Fig. 120 that the sides of the grooves must 
not be cut down at right angles, but at a pitch corresponding 
to that of the side rails, to accommodate steps B and C. 

Figure 122 shows 
dimensions for cut- 
ting 

The Steps B and 
C. The ends of 
these pieces must 
be beveled slightly 
to make them cor- 
respond to the angle 
formed by side rails 
A. 

In assembling the 
rails and steps, first 
set the ends of the 
steps in the grooves 
in the side rails, and 
drive screws through 
the projections on 
the ends of the steps 
into the front edges of the side rails, also drive screws through 
the side rails into the step ends. Cut crosspiece D of the 
width and thickness of the notch in the upper end of side 




MJ 

Fig. 118. — Step-Ladder Stool 



FOR MOTHER'S KITCHEN 71 

rails A, and of about the length of step B; slip it into the 
notches, nail it to the edges of side rails A, and saw off the 
ends flush with the outside face of the rails. 

The Rear Legs (E, Fig. 125) must be spaced the same 
distance apart, and placed at the same angle, as the side 
rails A of the ladder. Cut the legs of the dimen- 
sions shown in Fig. 126, and the pair of cross- 
pieces F and G of the dimensions shown in Fig. 
127. Use the steps as a guide for fastening 
together legs E and crosspieces F and G, so as 
to get them of equal width. 

With the steps and rear legs assembled, 
prepare 

The Top Step or seat (H) by the pattern 
shown in Fig. 128. Then screw one flap of a 
pair of hinges (/) to the inner face of crosspiece 
D of the steps, the flap of another pair of hinges 
(/) to the outer face of rear legs E, and screw 
the other flaps to the under side of seat H in 
the positions shown in Fig. 124. 

The Struts K prevent the legs from sliding 
farther apart when the ladder is opened to the 
position shown in Fig. 124. Cut this pair of 
strips of the size shown in Fig. 129, bore a screw- 
hole near each end, and screw the ends both to FlG - 119 * 
rails A and rear legs E, as shown in Fig. 118. stoo^Folded 
If the struts have been adjusted carefully, the 
step-ladder will fold into the form shown in Fig. 119, but 
not while a weight is upon the steps. That is to say, the 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



ladder will not fold up while you are standing or sitting 
upon it. 

3i 



-jc 

2" 

. -H. 




CJ 

Fig. 122 ± 



Fig. 120. — Detail of Ladder Steps Fig. 121. --Dimensions of Side Rails 

Fig. 122. — Dimensions of Steps 

Fig. 123. — How Steps and Parts are Joined 




Fig. 124. — Cross-Section of Step-Ladder Stool Fig. 125. — Rear Legs 

Fig. 126. — Dimensions of Rear Legs Fig. 127. — The Braces 

Fig. 128. — Top Step or Stool Seat Fig. 129. — Strut 

73 



74 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



The Clothes- 
Line Reel in Fig. 
130 is intended for 
use upon the 
kitchen porch 
(Fig. 131), in the 
kitchen, bath- 
room, or laundry. 
The reel screws to 
the wall, where it 
is always ready 
for instant use ; 

and, because the clothes-line can be wound up out of the 
way after the dried clothes have been removed, the reel is 
very convenient for crowded quarters. 




Fig. 130. — Clothes-Line Reel 




Fig. 131. — The Reel in Use 



FOR MOTHER'S KITCHEN 



75 



The Case of the Reel is a tomato can with both ends 
removed (Fig. 132). If the ends are clinched over the can 
sides, cut them away with a can opener. Start holes B 
with a nail, and 
enlarge with a rat- 
tail file until ]/ 2 inch 
in diameter. File 
the edges of the 
holes smooth, so 
they will not cut 
the clothes line 
which is to run 
through them. 

Cut blocks C 
(Figs. 132 and 133) 
to fit snugly in the 
can ends. Use a 
scroll-saw or brack- 
et-saw (Fig. 18, 
Chap. 2) if you own 
one; otherwise, cut 
the blocks roughly 
with a large saw, 
and finish up to the 
circumference with 
a chisel and sand- 




Fig. 132. — Case of Clothes-Line Reel 
Fig. 133. — Detail of Winding-Stick 
Figs. 134 and 135. — Details of Crank 



paper. 

The Reel, 
dowel-stick J^-inch or -Ms-inch in diameter. Its length 



Winding-stick D of the reel (Fig. 133) is a 



76 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

should be i inch longer than the can. Bore a hole through 
the center of each end block C, for the stick to turn in. 
A brad driven through one end, and the crank-shaft tacked 
to the other end, will prevent the stick from pulling out of 
the holes (Figs. 133 and 134). 

The Crank Shaft (E, Figs. 134 and 135) should be 2]/ 2 
inches long, % inch wide, and y% i ncn thick. To prevent its 
splitting, it is best to bore the hole for winding-stick D, and 
also to screw spool knob F in position, before shaping the 
block to its finished width and thickness. 

The Clothesline should be of cotton, and should be 50 
feet long. Slip the rope ends through holes B in the front 
of the tin can case, pass them around the winding stick D, 
as shown in Fig. 133, and fasten with tacks. 

Fasten end blocks C of the reel case with screws driven 
through the can sides into their edges. 

For Hangers screw the pair of screw-eyes G (Fig. 132) 
into end blocks C, as shown. Fasten the reel to a wall by 
driving screws through the eyes of the hangers into the 
wall (Fig. 130). 

There must be a means for 

Locking the Reel when as much line as is wanted has been 
unwound. Bore several holes through end C of the reel 
case (the end at which the crank is mounted), and provide 
a nail to stick into the holes for a locking-pin, to prevent 
the crank from turning. Hang the locking-pin from one 
of the hangers by means of a piece of string (Fig. 130). 

It is best to give the case of the reel two coats of paint, 
to keep the tin from rusting. 





CHAPTER VII 
FOR MOTHER'S SEWING ROOM 




Mother will not want all of the sewing-room conven- 
iences shown in this chapter; in fact, she could not very- 
well use all of them because several are designed for a 
similar purpose. But let her choose from among the articles 
those that she likes best, and make them for her as your 
time permits. Some of the articles can be made up for 
Christmas gifts, some you may find an opportunity to sell. 
For the most part, the articles are inexpensively made; 
several require nothing but materials that can be picked 
up at home. 

The Fancy-Work Frame shown in Fig. 136 hangs upon 
the wall. A couple 
of nails or hooks 
can be fastened 
securely in the wall 
to support it. 
When not in use, 
the drop-front is 
hooked up out of 
the way, and the 
contents thus made 

proof against dust. FlG - 136 - ~~ A Fanc y- Work Frame 

77 




78 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



^ 



~7 



4L 






With the frame hooked together in this way, it can be 
carried conveniently, if it is desired to use it in another room 

or on the porch. 

Fig. 137 shows 
the construction 
of the framework, 
with dimensions 
of all the parts. 
You will note that 
the front and 
back portions are 
identical, except 
that the back has 
an additional 
strip (C), fasten- 
ed between end 
strips B midway 
between strips A. 
Hinge the front 
and back together 
as shown, then 
cover all surfaces 
of the strips with cretonne, fasten a piece of cretonne over 
the back of the standing part of the frame, and over the 
front of the hinged part, and form three cretonne pockets 
in the places indicated. Drive nails into the upper edge of 
strip C for 

Spool-Spindles, provide a hook for scissors, screw a pair 
of screw-eyes into the top of the back frame for hangers, 



B 



A 



36" 



7 



c\j 



-I 



Fig. 137. — Detail of Framework 



FOR MOTHER'S SEWING-ROOM 



79 



and fasten a pair of hooks to the hinged front, for hooking 
it to the standing part. Tack the ends of a pair of heavy 
tapes to the 
hinged front and 
the standing part, 
to support the 
front when it has 
been opened. 

The Sewing- 
Stand (Fig. 138) is 
a manual-training 
problem well ad- 
apted both to home 
and school work. 

Four legs of the 
dimensions of A 
(Fig. 139), eight 
carpenter's dowel- 
sticks of the di- 
mensions of B (Fig. 
140), and four 
pegs of the length 
of C (Fig. 139), 
are the only pieces 
of wood required. 
For covering ma- 
terial, a square 
yard of cloth is 
needed. 




Fig. 138. — Sewing-Stand 



8o 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



For the legs, it is suggested that you use oak, chestnut, 
ash, pine, or cypress. For the round sticks, use oak or 
maple dowel-sticks. It does not matter whether the 
sticks are of the same wood as the legs or not, because they 
are to be concealed by the cloth covering of the sides. 
If you buy material at a mill for the legs, order an 8-foot 
piece i }/i inches square, surfaced four sides. 

Figure 139 shows c vn -rr_. c^n 




1? 



p 



°H 



^ 



a cross-section of the 
sewing-stand. Bevel 
the top of legs A, as 
shown, bore a pair 
of 34-inch holes, 34 
inch deep, in two 
adjoining sides of 
each leg, to receive 
the ends of connect- 
ing dowel-sticks B 
(Fig. 140), and bore 
a 34 -mc h hole H 
inch deep in the top 
of each leg to receive 
the end of the spool 
spindle C. The holes 
must be bored accurately, otherwise it will be impossible 
to set up the framework square and plumb. 

Assembling. With the parts prepared, and sandpapered 
smooth, coat the ends of dowel-sticks B with glue, and 
drive them into the holes in legs A. Also coat the lower 



1. 



Fig. 139. — Cross-Section of Fig. 140. — Details 
Framework of Sewing- of Legs and Connect - 
Stand ing Dowel-Sticks 



FOR MOTHER'S SEWING-ROOM 



end of the spool-spindle pegs C with glue, and drive them 
into the holes in the tops of the legs. 

The Woodwork Must Be Finished before the covering 
material is put on. It is suggested that you either stain 
the wood and then wax it, or that you white-enamel it. 

A Cretonne or Denim Covering is best for the sides of 
the sewing-stand. A square yard cut in half, making two 
strips }4 yard wide 
by i yard long, is 
ample. Preparing 
this covering will 
be mother's work 
entirely. A double 
hem must be made 
along the ends of 
the strips, for the 
upper dowels B to 
run through. If 
you have glued up 
the framework these 
hems will have to 
be sewed over the 
sticks, of course. 
If you want to, you 

can wait until the strips have been hemmed before you 
glue together the framework parts. Run each strip from 
an upper dowel-stick down to and around the lower stick 
on the same side, then across to the lower stick opposite, 
and then up to the upper dowel-stick on that side. The 




Fig. 141. — Waste-Basket 



82 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



strips will cross each other on the bottom, therefore the 
sewing-stand will have a double bottom. 

The Waste -Basket illustrated in Fig. 141 has the same 
framework construction as the sewing-stand. The frame- 
work is shown in Fig. 142, and a cross-section with dimen- 
sions of the parts is shown in Fig. 143. 

For covering the waste-basket, you will require half a 





-J.JL 

Fig. 142 Fig. 143 

Fig. 142. — Completed Framework of Waste-Basket 
Fig. 143. — Cross Section of Framework 



yard more material than was used for the sewing-stand. 
Cut the cloth into two strips, and put it on in the same way 
that the sewing-stand sides and bottom are put on. 

A Work-Bag on a Folding Support, like that shown in 
Fig., 144, has several good points in its favor. When the 
frames are spread, the bag is held open so its contents can 
be reached easily; when the frames are folded, the bag is 



FOR MOTHER'S SEWING-ROOM 



83 



closed, and in this compact form the work-bag may be 

hung up in a clothes-closet, or stood behind a door or in 

some other out-of-the-way place. 
The bag support (Fig. 145) is made of two frames (Fig. 

146). One of these frames is enough smaller than the other 

to slip inside of it (Fig. 

145). The frame dia- 
grams (Fig. 146) show 

the dimensions for the 

strips required. Tack 

crosspieces B and C 

to sticks A, so the 

upper crosspieces will 

be y% inch below the 

top of strips A, and so 

the lower crosspieces 

will be 8 inches above 

the bottom. Locate 

the exact center of the 

length of strips A, and 

at this point pivot the 

frames together on 

screws driven from the outer strips into the inner ones, as 

shown in Fig. 145. 

Figure 147 shows the piece of cretonne required for 

The Bag. Cut the cloth 32 inches square, turn over two 

opposite edges to a depth of 2 inches, make a hem in each 

for a ribbon, and make a second hem to form a heading. To 

fasten the cloth to the support, tie the ends of the ribbons 




Fig. 144. — Work-Bag on Folding Support 



8 4 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



run through the hems, to the ends of upper crosspieces B 
and C. Then turn the unhemmed edges of the cloth over 
crosspieces B and C, make hems, and above each hem form a 
heading. 

The Fancywork-Box shown in Fig. 148 requires little 
carpentry. After you have procured a box of the size 




■ — __ — 

c 

Cl "x-J-"x 


I3§ 


A 


A 


/ c 










Fig. 145. — Folding Support 
of Work- Bag 



Fig. 146. — Details of Frames 
for Work-Bag Support 



desired, all that it is necessary to do is fasten together the 
cover boards with a couple of battens nailed across them 
as shown in Fig. 150, unless the boards have been lost or 
broken, in which case you will have to make a new cover. 
Place the battens close enough to the cover ends, and make 
them of the right length, so when the cover is placed on the 
box the battens will prevent the cover from shifting length- 
wise and crosswise. By making this provision, hinges will 
be unnecessary. 



FOR MOTHER'S SEWING-ROOM 



85 



The Box Must be Covered to conceal the roughness of 
the boards. A pretty figured cretonne looks well for the 
outside, and a plain colored lining is best for the inside. 
Before putting the covering on, tack a layer of cotton 
wadding to the wood, for padding. Screw a brass handle 
to the center of each end of the box. 

Figure 149 shows how to tack 

A Cloth Pocket and Elastic Tapes to the inside of the 
cover; also how to make 

Spool-Spindles by 
driving nails into the 
cover, and slipping 
rubber bands over the 
nail heads (Fig. 151) 
to keep the spools from 
dropping off. 

The Fancywork-Box 
with Legs shown in 
Fig. 152 requires little 
more work to make 
than the box just de- 
scribed. The legs are 
strips 2 inches wide, 1 
inch thick, and from 
14 to 20 inches long 
according to the height 

Of box you Want. Six- FlG . 147 _ _ Cretonne for Work-Bag 

teen inches is right if 

the box is to be used as a bench to sit on. The leg strips 




86 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



must be of equal length, and they must be nailed to the box 
corners so the tops are even with the top of the box (Fig. 153). 

The cover of the fancywork-box should be wide enough 
and long enough to project % inch over the sides all around. 
Therefore you must use the cover boards from a larger 
box. Nail a pair of battens across the boards to hold 
them together 
(Fig. 1 54). These 
strips can be 
placed upon the 
under side of the 
boards in such a 
position that they 
will keep the cover 
from slipping 
from side to side, 
and from end to 
end, when it is 
placed upon the 
fancywork - box. 
By making the 
cover to lift off, FlG 
you will save your- 
self the trouble 
of putting on 
hinges. 

The Cretonne 
Covering. Per- 
haps you can get 




Fig. 149 



Fig. 148. — A Fancywork-Box 

Fig. 149. — Arrangement of Pockets and Spool-Racks 
Fig. 150. — Howto Batten Together the Cover Boards 
Fig. 151. — A Spool- Rack 



FOR MOTHER'S SEWING-ROOM 



87 



a large enough remnant in cretonne for the f ancywork-box . 
The care with which you put this on the box will determine 
whether or not the box will be a success. Perhaps you 
had better ask mother to help you. Because grocery boxes 
are more or less rough, and the boards are uneven, it is 




Fig. 152. — A Fancywork Box with Legs 

best to cover the wood with some other cloth first, for a 
foundation for the cretonne. Stretch the cretonne over 
each surface neatly, and use gimp tacks for fastening it. 
Line the inside of the box with plain colored cambric. 
Figure 155 suggests how the inside of the box may be 
divided into compartments by cloth partitions. 

The Sammy Spool-Holder shown in Fig. 156 will be a 
delight to mother because of its novelty. Cutting out 
the figure of Sammy is a simple scroll-saw problem. Review 
what has been said about this work in Chapter II. 

The patterns shown in Figs. 157 and 158 have been 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 




Fig. 154 



made full-size, for a soldier boy standing 6 inches high 
which is high enough for a spool-holder. You can take 
tissue-paper and make a tracing of the outlines, then 
transfer these on to your working material. Inasmuch 
as it was thought that you might wish to enlarge or reduce 
the figure, squares have been drawn checker-board fashion 
on the pattern. 

When you cut 
out the figure, 
saw just as close 
to the outline as 
possible. Be care- 
ful not to saw 
over the line. 
After cutting, 
finish the edges 
with sandpaper. 
The upper por- 
tion of the body 
(A, Fig. 157) is 
connected with 
the lower portion 
(B) by means of a 
dowel-stick (C). 
Glue the upper 
end of the stick 
in a hole bored in 
the upper portion 
of the body, and whittle the lower end of the stick so that 




Fig. 155 



Fig. 153. — How the Legs are Nailed to the 

Box Ends 
Fig. 154. — The Completed Cover 
Fig. 155. — How the Box is Partitioned off into 

Compartments 



FOR MOTHER'S SEWING-ROOM 



it will fit loosely in a hole of the same size bored in the lower 
portion of the body (B). Sammy's feet (Fig. 158) are made 
large enough to give him a solid footing to stand on. Cut 
a slot in this block and fit the end of the legs into it. 

A Needle Forms Sammy's 
Bayonet, and a small hole must be 
drilled in the gun to stick it into. 

Paint Sammy's Clothes khaki 
color, his gun brown; and mark his 
features, and outline his clothes, 
with black paint. 

If mother knits, she will appre- 
ciate 

A Yarn-Winder like that shown 
in Fig. 159. It does not take long 
to make one. 

The winder arms are two wooden 
strips (A and B, Fig. 160), pivoted 
to the top of a base block (F, Fig. 
165). The fingers at the arm ends 
are spools (D, Fig. 162). 

Figure 167 shows a face and an 
edge of an arm strip, with dimen- 
sions for cutting. At the exact 
center of each strip, bore a 3^-inch 
hole for the pivot bolt. To make 
the top surfaces flush with each other, halve them at their 
centers — that is, cut a piece 1 inch wide by % inch thick 
from each strip, so the two will fit into one another. The 




Fig. 156. — Sammy Spool- 
Holder 



9° 
. A 



2, 
3 

4 

5 
6 

7 
8 
9 

SO 

II 

92 
83' 
(4 
15 
16 
17 
68 
IS 
20 
21 
22 
23 
24 



CARPENTRY 
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AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
6 H 

notches must be cut of the 
right width and depth, to make 
a neat joint, so mark them out 
carefully on the top and edges. 
Cut a trifle inside of the marks, 
using a saw to cut the ends of 
the notch, and a chisel to split 
out the wood between and trim 
up the ends. 

The arm ends are slotted so 
the ringers may be adjusted 
for different sizes of skeins. 
Figure 167 shows dimensions 
of the slots. Bore a 34-inch 
hole at the slot end, then saw 
from the arm end as far as the 
hole. Trim up the slots with 
a chisel, then smooth with 
sandpaper. 

The end fingers (D, Fig. 162) 
are made of thread spools of 
the form shown in Fig. 163. 
You will need two spools for 
each finger. Whittle down the 
flange of one end of each spool, 
then glue together these ends 
of each pair of spools, and 
with your knife and sand- 
paper smooth the surface 



Fig. 157. — Pattern of Sammy 



FOR MOTHER'S SEWING-ROOM 



9i 



ABC 



E F 



from which the flanges were removed. Stove-bolts or 
carriage-bolts 34 inch in diameter and 3 inches long (Fig. 
164) are required for bolting the fingers to the arm ends. 
If you will slip the bolt through the center hole of each 
pair, you can screw the bolt-nut tight against the lower 
spool end, and thus clamp the pair of spools together until 
the glue has set. 

Fasten together the arm strips 
with a stove-bolt 34 inch in diam- 
eter and 2 inches long (C, Fig. 161). 
Screw the nut close against the 
under side of strip B, as shown, to 
hold the strips together. 

Base F (Fig. 165), on which the 
arms are pivoted to turn, has a 
projection at its base to provide 
for clamping it to a table top (Fig. 
159). Figure 168 shows its dimen- 
sions. Buy a 5-cent G-clamp for 

clamping the base (Fig. 166). Bore a 34-inch hole in the 
top of base F for the bolt to turn in. 

You may shellac the yarn-winder, shellac and varnish it, 
stain and wax it, or paint it. 

If you want to make mother a pair of 

Sweater Knitting Needles, get dowel-sticks 3 4e inch in 
diameter. Cut them into 12-inch lengths (Fig. 169), 
whittle one end to a point, and in the other end drive a 
brass tack measuring ^i inch across the head (Fig. 170). 
Drill a hole for the point of the tack, so it will not 





























. 










A 








2T ' 



























Fig. 158. — Sammy's Feet 



9 2 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



split the stick when you drive it in. Sandpaper the needles, 
then shellac and varnish them. 

Sock Knitting Needles are shorter than sweater needles. 




Fig. 159. — Yarn-Winder 



Make them as shown in Fig. 171, 8J-2 inches long, with both 
ends pointed. 

Figure 172 shows a pair of 

Needle-Point Protectors, made of spools. Glue a coil 
of paper inside of the spool hole (Fig. 173), to make the hole 
small enough so the needle will fit snugly. 

Every sewing-room has its whisk-broom, therefore 



Fig. 163 



Fig. 162 



O 

B 




Fig. 160 Fig.166 

Fig. 160. — The Winder Arm Strips Figs. 162-164. — Details of Fingers 

Fig. 161. — Center Connection of Arm Strips 
Fig.165. — The Winder Base Fig.166. — Clamp for Fastening Base to a Table 

93 



94 






U) 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

T 



_._L. 



-KM 



/I6 
/ : 



-l(M 

If) 



K* 



w 



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H-F^f 



3" 



Fig. 167. — Detail of 
Winder Arm Strips 



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CO 



L-b:fc 



K-3" 



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8 



8 




Fig. 168. — Detail of Winder Base 
Fig. 173 






Fig. 172 




Fig. 170 



Fig. 169. — Dowel-Stick Sweater Needle 

Fig. 170. — A Brass Tack is Driven into the End 

of the Sweater Needle 
Fig. 171. — Dowel-Stick Sock Needle 
Fig. 172. — Needle-Point Protectors 
Fig. 173. — Spool Point Protector 



A Whisk -Broom Holder like that shown in Fig. 174 should 
be one of the things that you make for mother. 



FOR MOTHER'S SEWING-ROOM 



95 



The holder illustrated requires a single board of the 
dimensions shown in Fig. 175. In laying this out, first 
draw a center-line upon the board, then lay off the measure- 
ments for one-half of the board to one side of the line, make 




Fig. 174.— Whisk-Broom Holder 



Fig. 175.— Detail of Board Back 



a tracing of this half, reverse the tracing, and transfer the 
outline upon the opposite side of the center-line. 

In cutting out the piece, saw a trifle outside of the outline, 
so that you will have enough margin for smoothing up the 
edge. Bore a pair of holes near the top of the board, in the 
positions shown, to slip over wall hangers. 







Have you ever tried your hand at making box furniture? 
If not, you are unaware of the possibilities of such work. 
Every shape of box, every size of box, suggests some prac- 
tical article. Material is easily obtained, because grocers 
generally have a good assortment on hand, and will be glad 
to let you have what you need at the price the second-hand 
man pays, which varies from ten cents to twenty-five cents, 
according to size. 

As a suggestion as to what to 
make, a number of designs are 
presented upon the following 
pages, and the author knows 
that when you have made some 
of these pieces of furniture, other 
ideas will suggest themselves to 
you. Some of the pieces will be 
just the thing for the porch and 
garden. 

Every boy needs a desk. 

After a bed, chiffonier, and chair, 

the desk is probably the most 

essential thing to have in your 

9 6 



ffl 



T2 — U U U — Cf 



ffl 



Fig. 179. — Front View of Desk 
Shown in Fig. 176 




Fig. 176. — Desk Made of Packing-Box And Lattice-Strips. 




■* Fig. 177. — Desk Stool with 
Box Top. 



Fig. 178.— Waste-Basket with 
Box Base. 



BOX FURNITURE 



97 



room. If you do not own a desk it is probably the first 
piece of furniture which you will be interested in making. 
Having learned from past experiences that the desk is 
among the most popular of furniture models, the author 
got to work the other day, and designed and built 

The Packing-Box Desk shown in Fig. 176 with which 
to begin this chapter on box furniture. 

You prob- 
ably will not 
be able to find 
a packing-box 
of the exact di- 
mensions of the 
box that was 
used in the 
model illus- 
trated, but no 
matter. Get a 
box of approxi- 
mately this size 
and alter the di- 



ffi 



Fig. 180. — Fig. 181. — 

Back View of Desk Side View of Desk 

mensions given 

(Figs. 182 and 183), to suit it. Don't use an ordinary grocery 
box. Get a heavier box than this; the kind with cross bat 
tens nailed to the ends is best (Fig. 184). In addition to the 
box, you will need several pieces of boards % inch thick, 
for drop-leaves, cross-strips, shelves, etc., a berry-case or 
two to provide thin wood out of which to construct pigeon- 



9 8 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



holes, and about sixty lineal feet of lattice-strip iH inch 
wide for enclosing the lower portion, and for the legs. 

Figures 179 to 183 show, in order, a view of the front of 
the desk, the back, a side, and two cross-sections. Figure 
184 shows the first step in preparing the packing-box, that 
of removing one side. When the side has been removed, 
cut strip A (Fig. 184) of the width shown in Fig. 183, and 

-2-4" 




Fig. 182 Fig. 1S3 

Figs. 182 and 183. — Cross-Sections of Desk 

fit and fasten it between the box ends as shown in Fig. 184; 
then cut strip B (Fig. 184) of the width given in Fig. 183, 
and fasten it between the upper end corners of the box. 
Drop-leaf C can be cut out of a 12-inch board, if your box 
is of the size of the box used in the model illustrated. Fit 
this drop-leaf now, and hinge it to strip A with 1 J^-inch 



BOX FURNITURE 99 

by 3 -inch hinges, then remove it and put it aside until after 
the rest of the desk has been assembled. 

A drawer is not the easiest thing in the world for a boy 
to fit properly, therefore in the desk a pocket in the lower 
portion has been substituted. This pocket, made the 
depth of board A, is covered by the boards D and E (Fig. 
185). Hinge the two pieces together, the latter to open 
as a hinged-leaj. Fasten strips to the sides of the box 
(F, Fig. 184) for cleats to support boards D and E, and 
nail board D to the cleats. Bore a hole through board E 
near the front edge, for a, finger-hole, by means of which to 
raise the leaf. 

Figure 187 shows the battery of 

Pigeon-Holes. These are built of strips of wood from a 
knocked-down berry-box. The best way to assemble the 
partitions between the pigeon-holes is to halve the two 
center vertical partitions with the two center horizontal 
partitions — that is, saw slots in their edges as shown in 
Fig. 1 88, so they will interlock. Nail the end, top, and 
bottom pieces to the ends of these interlocked partitions, 
and cut and fasten in position the remaining intermediate 
partitions. 

Before putting on the desk-top, build the base. The 
packing-box's dimensions, and Fig. 182, will determine the 
size of this. Figure 189 shows the way to assemble the 
end lattice- work legs. When you have prepared the two 
sections, nail the upper ends to the ends of the desk. Care 
must be taken to get the legs of equal length, so the desk 
will stand evenly. Cut the lower shelf and fasten it between 



ioo CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

the lattice-strips as shown (Figs. 182 and 183), and cut 
and fasten the back strips to the back edge of the shelf, 
and to the back of the box. (Fig. 180). A strip corres- 
ponding to the back strips, lapped over the front edges of 
the desk, and the edges of the side strips (Figs. 176 and 179) 
will form a finish to the desk front. A block fastened 
between each of these strips and the bottom shelf, will 
give support to the lower end of the front strips, and will 
brace the side strips (Fig. 176). 

After you have hinged the front drop-leaf in place, nail 
a strip to the inner face of strip B, allowing it to project as 
a stop for the drop-leaf to strike against. Attach a spring- 
catch to the center of the top of the drop-leaf, and attach 
a check-chain at each side of the drop-leaf, to screw-eyes 
(Fig. 183), to prevent the leaf from dropping farther than 
the position shown. The top boards should now be fitted 
in place. Cut them of the right dimensions to make pro- 
jections of the width shown. (Figs. 182 and 183). 

Finishing. Rub down all of the woodwork with sand- 
paper before applying a finish. You can stain the wood- 
work with a stain made of oil paint thinned with turpentine, 
or you can paint it, or you can shellac and varnish it. 
If the wood is in good condition and of uniform color, you 
can shellac and varnish it; otherwise, do not attempt this 
method. If the wood is not good, painting will afford the 
best opportunity for concealing knots, cracks and other 
defects, because after the first coat of paint has dried, you 
can fill in putty, and the second coat of paint will cover 
it. Putty sticks best after one coat of paint has been 



Fig. 184 




Fig. 189 



Fig. 188 



Fig. 187 



Fig. 184. — First Step in Preparing Packing-Box for Desk 
Fig. 185. — Top to Pocket Fig. 186. — Drop-Leaf for Desk Front 

Figs. 187-188,— Details of Pigeon-Holes Fig. 189.— End Lattice-Strip Legs 



102 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



applied. White enamel makes a good finish for a bedroom 
desk. 

After you have completed your desk, you will want to make 
A Desk Stool. Of course you can use an ordinary straight- 
back chair to sit on, but a stool designed along the lines of 
the desk will be more in keeping. Figure 177 shows a 
stool_designed to go with the desk. You will notice that 
the designs of the two are similar. The stool legs have 
been made heavier than the desk legs, which is necessary, 
of course, because the stool will receive rougher usage, 
and it must be strong enough to withstand it. 

A grocery-box forms 
the top of the stool, 
the legs and their 
braces are cut out of 
a K-inch board, and 
the finishing-strips are 
pieces of lattice-strips 
or laths planed smooth, 
3^-inch thick and i^ 
inches wide. The box 
used in the model was FlG 190 
9 inches deep, 1 1 inches 
wide, and 15 inches long. 




Top 



Box with Sides Cut Down. 
of Stool Shown in Fig. 177 

The width and length were 
exactly right, but it was necessary to saw 3 inches from the 
sides and ends (Fig. 190) to make the box of the right depth 
of 6 inches. Square a line around the sides and ends, 
remove any nails that happen to come in the way, and 
saw off the portion above the line. 



BOX FURNITURE 



103 



Fig. 192 



The legs are shown in place, in Fig. 191. Their upper 
ends must be cut as shown in Fig. 192 to fit over the ends 
of the box, so their outer edge will come flush with the 
box ends. The length of the legs should be such that the 
measurements from the floor to the top of the stool will 
be 18 inches (Fig. 193). Cut the leg strips Vs inch thick 
by 2 inches wide, fasten them in the box corners, as shown, 
with nails driven 
through the box 
bottom into their 
ends and through 
the box sides and 
ends into their 
faces and edges. 
Cut the leg braces 
(B, Fig. 191) Vs 
inch square to fit 
between the legs 
3 inches above 
the lower ends. 

Strips C (Fig. 
193) are lattice- FlGS " 191 and l 92 - H ™ * he L ^ g Strips are Cut and 

yo J rastened in Box Corners 

strips or laths. 

Nail them to the box sides with their top edges even with 
the box bottom (Fig. 195). Fit finish strips D to the edges 
of the legs as shown, butting their upper ends against 
strips C. Cut the pair of end strips E to extend from 
strips C to a point 3^2 incn below braces B and fasten 
them so the spaces between the strips, and from strips to 




Fig. 191 



io4 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



legs will be equal (Fig. 177). Cut strips F to fit upon 
the corners of the box where shown (Fig. 193) ; their purpose 
is to balance the design; they correspond to leg strips D, 
except that they project only 1J4 inches below the box. 
Cut rail H of the right length to reach from one leg brace B to 

theother(Fig. 193). 
Strips G (Figs. 
193 and 194) form 
a ledge around the 
upholstering filling. 
If you can get 
some quarter- 
round moulding 
it will save your 
planing the tops 
round as shown. 
When you have 
nailed the strips 
in place, trim off 
the ends to make 
round corners . 
Upholstering. Fill in between the strips G with dampened 
excelsior. Pack this in solid, and let it project 3^2 inch or 
so above the top of the strips. Cover the excelsior with a 
layer of cotton to prevent its showing through the covering 
material, then cut a piece of cambric or other strong goods, 
place it over the cotton, and tack it along one edge; draw 
the cloth tight over the stool top, and tack along the opposite 
edge (Fig. 197). The low places will now show up, and 




Fig. 193 



Fig. 193. — Detail Showing Stool Ready for Up- 
holstering 

Fig. 194. — Strip for Forming Ledge around Up- 
holstering Material 



BOX FURNITURE 



i°S 



Fig. 195 



,CUOTH- COVERING 
- COTTON 

-EXCELSIOR 



these must be filled with excelsior and cotton until a nicely 
formed top is obtained. At the corners especially, it will 
be necessary to build up by filling in additional excelsior. 
Give plenty of time to this work. Bear in mind that 
unless the upholstering is well done, the entire appearance 
of the stool will be spoiled. When you are satisfied that 
the top has been filled as well as you can fill it, pull the 
covering material down over the ends, tack it in place, 
and trim off the edges. 

Finishing. — The 
woodwork of the 
stool should be sand- 
papered next, then 
painted or stained to 
match your desk. 

Colored cretonne 
makes a pretty 

Covering for the 
Seat, but you can 
use denim or any of 
the imitation leather 
material sold for 
upholstering and 

wall coverings. Place the material over the stool top, 
tack along one side, smooth out all wrinkles, and tack the 
opposite side, then tack the end edges (Fig. 195). Care- 
fully fold over the lapping corners to make as neat a looking 
piece of work as possible. After the edges have been 
tacked, finish them off with a piece of gimp braid, fastening 




Fig. 196 



Fig. 195. — Section Through Corner of Stool 
Figs. 196 and 197.— Details of Upholstering. 



io6 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



Fig. 200 



8^ T"8"*l 



Fig. 199 



Fig. 198 



the braid with round-head tacks placed at equal distances 
apart, as shown in Fig. 177. If you have used imitation 
leather, you can get tacks with heads to match. The edges 
of this material can be turned under, and tacked with small- 
head tacks. Then the large-head tacks can be placed so 
as to cover the heads of the small-head tacks. 

The Waste- 
Basket in the 
photograph of 
Fig. 178 has a 
grocery-box foun- 
dation (A Fig. 
198) and sides 
built up of short 
lengths of lattice- 
strips or of laths 
planed smooth 
upon both sides 
or of strips ripped 
out of box boards. 
It is suggested 
that you get a box 
of about the size 
used in the model, 

7 Yz inches deep 

8 inches wide and 
12 inches long. The box the author used was too long 
for the purpose so had to be cut down. If your box needs 
alteration you will not find the work much of a trick. 




Fig. 19S. — - Cross-Section of Waste Basket 

Shown in Fig. 178 
Fig. 199. — Detail of Tops of Side Strips 
Fig. 200. — Detail of Handle 



BOX FURNITURE 



107 



Prepare all side and end strips at one time, the corner 
strips longer than the intermediate strips, as shown. Trim 
the upper corners with a small saw or chisel, as shown in 
Fig. 199. Tack the corner strips in place first. Be careful 
to get the projections of the lower ends equal, and to get 





Fig. 202 
Figs. 202 and 203. 



Fig. 203 

Rockers with Box Seats and Barrel-Stave Rockers 
Shown in Fig. 201. 



them parallel to and H inch away from the box corners (Fig. 
198). Divide the spaces between the corner strips equally. 
Figure 200 shows how the handles are made of a strip A 
and two blocks B. Nail the strip A to blocks B, then 
fasten the blocks to the ends of the basket (Fig. 198). 

The basket will now be ready for finishing. It is sug- 
gested that you finish the wood in one of the ways suggested 
for the stool. 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 




Fig. 204 



The Box Rockers in Fig. 201 are made of soap boxes, 
with barrel-stave rockers, and backs made of strips cut 
from box boards or any other boards that may be at hand. 

The seat of each 
chair is made of CjV-^i M^>\ 

two soap boxes 
placed with their 
open tops to- 
gether. In the 
case of one chair, 
that shown in 
Fig. 202, the 
boxes are held to- 
gether by means 
of a pair of strips 
nailed to the front 
and by means 
of another pair 
about 3 feet long (forming the uprights of the chair back) 
nailed to the back. A board fastened to the uprights at 
their top completes the chair back. 

The rocker shown in Fig. 203 has its boxes held together 
with strips fastened to the front corners, and a pair of strips 
long enough to form the chair-back uprights fastened to 
the box ends at the back. A diagram of the uprights is 
given in Fig. 204. When you have nailed the uprights of 
the chair back to the boxes, fasten a board across them 
at the top. 

Warping the Rockers. Barrel-staves are not warped 




Fig. 204. — Detail of Chair Back Upright 
Fig. 205. — Warping Barrell-Staves for Rocker 
Fig. 206. — How the Rockers are Attached 



BOX FURNITURE, 



109 



enough for rockers. To increase the warp, place the staves 
in a wash-tub filled with hot-water, and allow them to soak 
for a half hour or so. Then rest the ends of the staves on 
boxes or piles of bricks, and weight down the center with a 
pile of bricks or other weight, as shown in Fig. 205. Make 
the warp greater than is wanted, because when the weight 
has been removed the stave will straighten out somewhat. 

Figure 206 shows 
how the rockers are 
attached. Nail a 
strip, measuring ij£ 
inches thick, across 
the chair bottom at 
the center, then nail 
the staves to this 
strip and to the box, 
allowing several 
inches of the staves 
to project beyond 
the chair front, the 
remainder of the 
length at the rear. FlG ' 207 - ~ Box Table Shown in Fig ' 201 

One of the simplest ways to make 

A Table is shown in Fig. 207. The box used is inverted 
so that the bottom becomes the table top. The legs are 
strips 3 inches wide and 28 inches long. Fasten one leg 
in each corner of the box. Measure the distance between 
each end pair of legs, cut a pair of strips of a length equal 
to this distance, and fasten a strip between each end pair 




no CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

of legs 4 or 5 inches from the ends, for braces. Cut another 
strip of the right length to fit between these leg braces, and 
fasten it to them for an additional brace. 





Fig. 210.— 
Leg Crosspeices 



Fig. 208. — Tabouret Shown in Fig. 201 Fig. 209. — Framework of Tabouret 




The Tabouret in Fig. 208, also shown in Fig. 201, has a 
top made of a cheese-box cover. The legs are 1^ inches 
wide by a length to be determined by the height of tabouret 
you want. Twenty-one inches is a medium height. The 
legs are connected by two pairs of crosspieces (Fig. 209), 
each notched at the center as shown in Fig. 210, so that 
the strips will interlock one another. The diameter of the 
cheesebox-cover will determine the length of the strips. 
Nail the legs to the ends of the braces, then nail the cover 
to their tops. 




The description of home-made furniture in this chapter 
has been confined to the making of the smaller pieces. 
Some of you boys may be disappointed not to find designs 
for a library-table, book-case, clock, Morris chair, and 
pieces of similar proportions, but letters received from 
readers since the publication of the handicraft book pre- 
ceding this one, would indicate that small pieces are the 
more popular. Many boys cannot make large pieces of 
furniture because of the cost of material. 

The Material to use in furniture making will be deter- 
mined largely by what the local market offers. Perhaps 
you can get any kind of wood that you want. The quantity 
required for the furniture shown upon the following pages 
is small, and the difference in costs between the finer and 
commoner woods will be so little as to be almost negli- 
gible. The wood used in the models shown in this chapter 
is oak. Red oak and white oak are standard woods for 
furniture just as are mahogany and walnut. If you intend 
to finish the work with stain, nothing is better than oak 
or chestnut. Of the softer woods, white-pine, western-pine, 
cypress and whitewood are easily worked. With tools nicely 
sharpened, and, of course, no good workman uses tools that 
are not, hard woods are as easily worked as soft woods. 



ii2 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

Finishing. The kind of finish to put on work will be 
determined by the kind of wood. If you use oak, chestnut, 
or other hard wood, having a pretty, open grain, do not 
paint it, because paint will conceal the grain markings. 
Instead, apply a finish that will accentuate the markings. 
The best method is to stain the surface, then shellac and 
varnish it, or simply wax it after staining. If you varnish 
the wood after staining it, the open grain must be filled 
with wood-filler before the varnish is applied, so the wood 
will present a smooth glassy surface. If you stain and 
wax the surface, filler is not necessary. Filling the grain 
conceals the markings to a certain extent. 

You can buy ready-prepared wood stains in any colors 
wanted, at most paint stores. If you wish to, however, 
you can make up a stain that will answer the purpose every 
bit as well as a boughten stain, by thinning oil paint with 
turpentine. Pretty effects can be produced by rubbing 
oil paint of one color into the grain, then wiping the surface 
clean, and applying a turpentine stain made of oil paint 
of a contrasting color. The author does not want you to 
try out any such schemes as this on a completed piece of 
furniture, however. Use a waste piece of wood to exper- 
iment on, and be satisfied that you will like the results 
before applying stain to your work. 

Soft wood has a close grain. If it has a well-defined 
grain, like cypress, stain will make a pretty finish. Shellac- 
ing and then varnishing is a method of finishing commonly 
applied to soft woods. 

When it comes to finishing furniture with paint, white- 



SMALL FURNITURE PROBLEMS 113 

enamel makes a most desirable finish. Give the surfaces 
two coats of flat-white paint, then one coat of white-enamel. 
One difficulty with white-enamel is that unless the best 
grade is used it soon turns more or less yellow. Never thin 
white-enamel paint with linseed-oil, because this is bound 
to make it turn yellow; use turpentine as a thinning medium. 
Painting makes it possible to conceal defects to a certain 
extent, but do not do careless work with the idea that you 
can cover up with paint and putty and get away with it. 
You can't do it. You are not a good enough camouflage 
artist to hide defects in work that is to be inspected at close 
range. Putty is to be used as a means of filling nail holes, 
over the heads of countersunk nails, and for filling in around 
joints. Work it in after the first coat of paint has dried. 
It holds better then, because the holes and joints are partly 
filled with paint. 

Before you apply any finish to work, be certain that all 
surfaces have been gone over thoroughly with sandpaper 
and made smooth. 

In the furniture designs shown in Figs. 211 to 214, you 
will notice that there is a similarity in parts. This dupli- 
cation of parts will simplify marking out the work, if you 
make up the several pieces of furniture, because having one 
part in each shape, you can mark around them in laying 
out like pieces. 

The number of pieces of wood required for 

The Waste -Basket shown in Fig. 211, and their dimen- 
sions, are indicated in the material bill (Fig. 215), patterns 
for the pieces are given in Figs. 216 and 218. The Irame 



ii4 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

around the top of the basket (Fig. 217) must be of the 
exact width and length of base A. Cut strips B and C 
of the sizes given in Fig. 215, but, in nailing them together 



MATERIAL -for -WASTE-BASKET! 


pieces! dimensions 


PARTS I 


1 


^4"X7 3 /4"X7%" 


A 


2 


5/fl"x 1 Vo" X7 3 /4" 


B 


2 


5/ 8 " x| !/2" x6'/2" 


C 


8 


V4"X \VA" XI8" 


D 


8 , 


k"xl!4" XI7J&" 


E 



Fig. 215 



Fig. 216 




Fig. 219 



Fig. 215. — Material Reauired for Waste-Basket Shown in Fig. 211 
Fig. 216. — Detail of Base Fig. 217. — Detail of Top Frame 

Fig. 218. — Detail of Side Strips Fig. 219. — Assembling 

use the base board as a guage, so as not to get the frame 
larger or smaller. 

Side strips D (Fig. 218) project l / 2 inch below the base 
board of the waste-basket; side strips E (Fig. 218) come 




Fig. 214. — Smoker's Stand. 



Fig. 213.— Plant-Stand 



SMALL FURNITURE PROBLEMS 



"5 



MATERIAL FOR TABOURET 




PIECES 


DIMENSIONS 


PARTS 




2 


3/4"x73/ 4 "x73/ 4 


A 




8 


'/4" x IV4 M X 18 


B 





Fig. 220 




3" 



CO 



B 



flush with the bot- 
tom of the base 
board. The pro- 
jecting lower end 
of strips D form 
feet. Cut off the 
corners of the 
upper ends, and 
the corners of the 
lower ends of 
strips D, as shown. 
Fasten the side 
strips to the edge 
of the base board, 
and to the sides of 
the upper frame, 
with round-head 
blued iron Jinish- 
ing-screws^ %-inch 
in diameter. Use 
i -inch screws for 
the lower ends, 
and %-inch screws for the upper ends. Drill large enough 
holes through the side strips so the screw shanks will fit 
loosely in them, and if you have used hard wood, drill 
holes a trifle smaller than the screws part way into the 
edges of the base board and the top frame. When driving 
screws into hard wood, coat the threads with soap to make 
driving easier. 



I 



Fig. 221 



Fig. 222 



Fig. 



220. — Material Required for Tabouret 
Shown in Fig. 212 
Fig. 221. — Plan and Section of Base Block 
Fig. 222. — Face and Edge of Side Strips 



n6 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 





it* 




The Tabouret shown in Fig. 
212 is made of pieces similar to 
those used in the waste-basket, 
but it does not require as many 
kinds of pieces, or as many of 
each kind. Figure 220 shows a 
list of material and Figs. 221 
and 222 show the dimensions. 

The Plant-Stand in Fig. 213 
is made of pieces of three shapes 
(Fig. 223). For the material 
list, see Fig. 224, for patterns of 
the pieces, see Figs. 226 to 228. 
The base board has its upper 
edge beveled (Fig. 226); the 
edges of the shelf board are left 
square. 

Brackets C require careful 
marking out and sawing. Use a 
bracket-saw or coping-saw (Figs. 
18 and 19, Chap. II) for cutting the curves. Be careful to 
get all four brackets alike. In fastening them to center- 
post B, use glue and round-head screws, unless the wood is 
soft, in which case the brackets can be fastened with finishing 
nails. Screw down through the lower bracket end into the 
base board, and up through the upper bracket end into the 
shelf. Be careful to center the base board and shelf board on 
the center post, and also one exactly over the other. If you 
don't center them you will have a poor looking piece of work. 




Fig. 223. — Parts Required for 
Plant-Stand Shown in Fig. 213 



SMALL FURNITURE PROBLEMS 



117 



Fig. 224 



Fig. 225 



MATERIAL --FOR-PLANT-STAND 


PIECES 


DIMENSIONS 


PARTS 


2 


3/4"X7 3 /4"x7 3 / 4 " 


A 


1 


|3/ 4 "x |3/4" X 12" 


B 


4 


3/4"X2/4"xl2" 


C 



MATERIAL- FOR ■ SMOKER'S-STAND 


PIECES 


DIMENSIONS 


^ARTS 


3 


3/ 4 "x7 3 /4"x7 3 /4" 


A 


1 


|3/ 4 "x l^4"X 12" 


B 


4 


3/4" X2'/4"X 12" 


C 


8 


'/4"X l!/4"X)4" 


D 






.3" 

'Square' 




^A 



ki> 



Fig. 226 



Fig. 229 



1 



Fig. 228 Fig. 227 
Fig. 224. — Material Required for Plant-Stand Shown in Fig. 213 
Fig. 225. — Material Required for Smoker's Stand Shown in Fig. 214 
Fig. 226. — Plan and Section of Base and Shelves A 
Fig. 227. — Detail of Base Center Post B 
Fig. 228. — Side and Edge of Base Brackets C 
Fig. 229. — Side and Edge of Side Strips D 

The Smoker's Stand in Fig. 214 is a development of fthe 
plant-stand design. It is just like it, with the addition of 
a second shelf supported by side strips screwed to the edges 



n8 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

of the two shelves. Figure 225 gives a list of material. 
Figure 229 shows a pattern of side strips D. 

The Book-Trough and Magazine -Stand shown in Fig. 
230 makes a most convenint piece of furniture for a library 
or living-room, to hold books and magazines of recent issue. 

Figure 232 shows a material list. Only five pieces of 
boards are required, two end pieces (A), two trough strips 
(B), and a shelf (C). If you order i-inch boards planed 
upon both faces, known as surf aced-two-s ides (s-2-s), they 
will measure between % inch and 13 /fe inch thick when "you 
get them, because i-inch boards are sawed about 14 inch 
thick, nowadays, and about % i ncn is taken off in surfacing. 
In the case of this piece of furniture, and the pieces preceding 
it, ^-inch stock will be in better proportion than thicker 
material. 

Figure 233 is a cross-section of the completed trough 
and stand, with dimensions, Fig. 234 is a side view, Fig. 235 
is an end view, and Figs. 237 and 238 are patterns of the 
shelf and trough boards. 

You will find upon the detail drawings every measurement 
necessary for preparing the parts. The ends should be 
cut first. Saw these to the right length and width, and 
cut the side edges to the right taper. Then make a card- 
board pattern, or templet, of the lower end, with the curve 
carefully laid out (Fig. 236), and mark out around this 
upon each piece of board. With a bracket-saw or coping- 
saw cut the curve, sawing close to the lines, and with a 
chisel and sandpaper smooth up the edge. 

With the end pieces cut, mortises to receive the ends of 




>k-Tkough and Magazine-Stand 




Fig. 231.— Telephone Table and Chair. 



A 



[!•*— 9g — »il 



] 


< 


36 


*1 




B 




A 


* 


A 






Fig. 234 





~T 



A 



,4,= 



k--ll£--»j 

Fig. 235 



I.J 




-iOO 




Fig. 237 



MATERIAL- LIST 


NO. 
PIECES 


DIMENSIONS 


PARTS 


2 


3 /4."x|2"x28-S-2-S 


ENDS 


2 


« x4"x36" •• 


TROUGH 


1 


.. x|0"x » M 


SHELF 



Fig. 232 

Fig. 232.— Material Required for Book-Trough and Magazine-Stand (Fig. 230) 

Fig. 233.— Cross-Section Fig. 234.— Side View Fig. 235.— End View 
Fig. 236.— Bottom of End Pieces Fig. 237.— Shelf Fig. 238.— Trough Board 



i2o CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

the trough and shelf boards must be marked out and cut. 
Upon the accuracy of this work depends the perfect fitting 
together of parts. The mortises for trough strips B must 
be placed at right angles to each other, and all mortises 
must be y% inch less than the board-end measurement, 
on all sides. Cut them 3^ inch deep. Tenons must be 
prepared upon the board ends to fit the mortises, as indi- 
cated upon the diagrams (Figs. 237 and 238). The shoul- 
ders of these tenons will lap over the edges of thejnortises 
when the parts are assembled, and will conceal them; they 
will also help to brace the work. The mortises must be 
cut y% inch deeper than the tenons, and the tenons must 
be made to fit loosely enough so that when they are coated 
with glue, previous to assembling the parts, they will drive 
in easily, yet be tight enough to make a snug fit. Use a 
chisel with which to cut the mortises. Cut down along 
the sides, first, then chip out the wood between, and smooth 
off the bottoms. Cut the shoulders with a fine-tooth saw. 
With the mortises and tenons carefully prepared, the 
book-trough and magazine-stand can be glued up. Glue 
alone will hold the work, but screws must be driven in to 
reinforce the joining. Four screws driven through each 
end, one into each of the book-trough strips, and two into 
the shelf board, as indicated in Fig. 235, will be sufficient. 
Locate the holes in the positions shown, and with a gimlet 
or wood-bit drill holes through the end pieces, and into the 
ends of boards B and C, making the holes in the end pieces 
a trifle larger than the screw shank, the holes in the ends 
of boards B and C a trifle smaller than the screw shanks. 



SMALL FURNITURE PROBLEMS 121 

Buy round-head blued iron finishing-screws %-inch in 
diameter and 2 inches in length, for the work. 

A Telephone Table and Chair are two serviceable pieces 
of furniture which a handy boy can easily make. If there 
is no telephone in the house, the table and chair will be 
useful in the front hallway — the table to hold a card-tray, 
the chair for the stranger who is awaiting mother or father. 

The Table, shown in Fig. 231, has a shelf on which to keep 
the telephone directory. This shelf is placed at the right 
height so the chair seat will slide underneath it, and the 
chair back has been made low enough to slide under the 
edge of the table top, so the chair can be kept entirely 
under the table when not in use. 

Figure 239 shows a bill of material for the table. The 
table top is 16 inches square, therefore it will have to be 
made of two pieces. Unless you already have had exper- 
ience in glueing up work, the author advises you to have 
this piece glued up at a mill. It will not cost much. How- 
ever, if you want to do the work yourself, Fig. 245 shows 
how to go about it. Make the top of two pieces of equal 
width. The first thing to be certain of, after planing up 
the pieces, is that the faces are straight and true, and that 
the joining edges are exactly square, lengthwise and cross- 
wise. With these conditions met, place the pieces back to 
back in your bench-vise, with the joining edges even with 
one another, and square lines across the edges at the center 
and near each end, to mark the positions for dowel-pin 
holes. At the center of these lines bore ^-inck holes about 
1 H inches deep, being careful to bore them exactly at right 




JZ 



CD 
t 

cm 



L.U 



a 'A 



B 



I r 1 



1 1 J-' 
ll 2 



Fig. 240 



MATERIAL 


PIECES 


DIMENSIONS 


PARTS 


4 


|'/4"xl^4"x2-5J'4 


LEGS A 


2 


3/4" x 2"x|2J4" 


RAILS B 


2 


•• * - x||l/2 


» C 


2 


•• x •• x|2&" 


- D 


2 


.. x 8"* 16" 


TOP E 


1 


• *9&x|3%" SHELF F 



Fig. 239 




r 



-ICVJ 

CD 



_L 



D D 



I" 
2" 



Fig. 241 



Fig. 239. — Material Required for Telephone Table Shown in Fig. 231 
Fig. 240. — Side View of Table Fig. 241. — Cross-Section of Table 

Fig. 242. — Plan of Table Top E Fig. 243. — Detail of Rails B and D 

122 



SMALL FURNITURE PROBLEMS 



123 



angles to the edges. Get a dowel-stick to fit the holes, 
and cut dowel-pins from it a trifle shorter than the combined 
depth of a pair of the holes. Coat the pins with glue, also 




Fig. 244 



Fig. 244. — Detail Showing Mortise-and-Tenon Joints of Legs and Rails 

Fig. 245. — Detail of Table Top 

Fig. 246. — Detail Showing Legs, Rails and Top Assembled 



both edges of the boards, then drive the pins into the holes. 
Put the work in clamps, and allow it to remain until the 
glue has set. Now, if you have done the work correctly, 
you will have a perfectly joined top. 

Figure 240 shows a side view of the table, and Fig. 241 
shows a cross-section with the principal dimensions. Rails 



124 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

B and D have tenons cut upon their ends (Figs. 243 and 244), 
and mortises for these to fit in are cut in the legs (Fig. 244). 
Rails C are not tenoned; they fit between the legs. 

Top E and shelf F are screwed in place, the screws passing 
through the rails into them. As it would require very long 
screws if you ran them entirely through the rails into the 
table-top and into the shelf, holes are bored halfway through 
the rails (Fig. 244), and then holes a trifle larger than the 
screw shank, but smaller than the heads, are drilled through 
the rest of the way, so screws about i}4 inches long can 
be used. Provide two screw-holes for each rail, one near 
each end (Fig. 246). 

To assemble the table, after having cut every piece of 
the correct size, and prepared the leg mortises and rail 
tenons, first coat the mortises and tenons with glue, and 
drive the tenons into the mortises. Then upon the under 
side of top E mark out the positions for the legs, and screw 
rails B to the top; coat the ends of rails C with glue, slip 
them between the legs, and screw them to the top. Screw 
rails D to shelf F in a similar manner. 

In Fig. 247 is specified the material required for 

The Chair. The legs are mortised to receive the ends of 
the rails, in the same manner as those of the table are 
mortised. That is to say, mortises are made for the ends 
of rails C, D, E, F, G, and /. Mortises for side rails H 
would cut into those for rails C and F, so rails H are not 
tenoned, but are cut to fit between the legs. You will see 
by Fig. 249, which is a plan view of the chair, that seat / 
is notched at the corners to fit around legs B; also, that 




A 



D 



r 





Fig. 250 



I* 11- 

Fig. 249 
Fig. 247 
Fig. 248. — Front View 



MATERIAL 


PIECES 


DIMENSIONS 


PARTS 


2 


IK4"XI!/4"xW4" 


LEGS A 


2 


•• x2%"x2 1 5" 


•• B 


1 


3A" x 2" x 8 3/f 


RAIL C 


1 


•• x 3/4"x - 


- D 


I 


•• x 2" x9l/4" 


E 


1 


x •• X •• 


F 


1 


•• X 3/}."x •• 


G 


2 


•• x2"xl0k8 


RAILS H 


2 


•• x3/4"x|0%' 


I 


1 


•■ x ||" x |3" 


SEAT a 



Fig. 247 
Material Required for Telephone Chair Shown in Fig. 231 
Fig. 249. — Plan Fig. 250. — Cross-Section 
125 - 



126 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

legs B are set y% inch farther apart than legs A, which 
makes it necessary to run rails H into the center of the 
width of legs A, and into the inside half of legs B. Bore 
one hole through the center of the edge of rails C, F, and H, 
in the same manner as holes were bored through the table 
rails (Fig. 244), to provide for attaching the chair seat. 
(Fig. 250). 

In assembling the chair, drive the tenons on rails C and 
D into the mortises cut in legs A, then drive the tenons of 
rails E, F, and G into the mortises cut in legs B. Connect 
legs A and B by means of rails /, and, finally, screw rails 
C, F, and H to the under side of the seat. 

When you have assembled your table and chair, you may 
find that the legs are a trifle uneven. The way to correct 
this is to stand the table, then the chair, upon a surface 
known to be level, and note the short leg. Cut a block of 
wood of the right thickness to slip under this leg. Then 
slide this block around each side of the other legs, marking 
where its top comes on each face of each leg. Trim off the 
legs_at these points. 




PART II 



War Toys and 
Mechanical Toys 




Fig. 268.— A Toy Submarine that Dives then Rises to the Water's 
Surface (See Chapter 11). 




Fig. 251.— A Superdreadnought Toy Battleship (See Chapter 10). 





CHAPTER X 



A TOY SUPERDREADNOUGHT 
BATTLESHIP 




To make a model that would be an exact reproduction 
of a modern battleship , you would not only have to possess 
a set of scale drawings of the ship, but an abundance of 
patience, and a willingness to devote lots of time to the 
work. The author would be glad if you could make an 
exact model, because he knows that you would get a great 
deal of enjoyment and practical experience out of the work, 
but he suggests that your first model be simple. You can 
elaborate upon a second model as much as you please. 

The way to make a simplified model of a battleship, 
building, piece of machinery, or any other structure, is to 
get a picture of it, or to look upon the object itself, and pick 
out the half dozen or so parts which determine its contour; 
then reproduce these parts in as nearly the correct propor- 
tion as you can. Take the author's model, shown in the 
photograph of Fig. 251, for example. The essential parts 
are not many. They are the hull, deck, masts, funnels, 
main-battery guns and turrets, and the secondary-battery 
guns below the deck. The deck-rails, fighting-tops, and 
wireless aerial might be omitted without destroying the 
lines which give the ship its form. Details other than 
those shown upon the model illustrated can be added if 
you wish to spend more time upon the work. 



129 



13 o CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



Materials. The best material for model making is white 
pine, but cypress, spruce, or any other soft wood, will serve 
the purpose. For the hull of the battleship model shown 
in Fig. 251 a piece of 2 by 4 is of the right width and thick- 
ness. The funnels, turrets, and fighting-tops also can be 
cut out of a 2 by 4. A board % inch thick is required for 
the superstructure-deck. The masts require a narrow strip 
of wire cloth with 34-inch mesh, and four spools. The deck 
rails are also made of wire cloth. Spools are used for 
wheels to mount the model on. The guns are cut from 
dowel-sticks 3^ inch and % inch in diameter, the small gun 
mounts are cut from a ^-inch dowel-stick. The pins con- 
necting the various parts are cut from 34-inch dowel-sticks. 
Button-moulds 1% inches in diameter fit over the ends of 
the gun turret pivots. 

-5- k 5 • f- 




FlG. 252. — Plan and Side Elevation of Hull 

Figure 252 shows a plan and side elevation of 
The Hull, with all of the dimensions necessary for cutting 
it out. Figure 253 shows the completed hull. The curves 
of the ends should be alike, and the best way to get them 



A TOY SUPERDREADNOUGHT BATTLESHIP 131 

alike is to draw a center-line lengthwise, and another center- 
line crosswise of the block; then mark out one-half of the 
outline of one side, drawing the straight line with a ruler, 
the curved line freehand. Trace this much upon tissue- 
paper, reverse the paper, and transfer the line each side of 
the center-lines, to complete the outline. First, cut out 
the block roughly with a saw, then finish up close to the 
outline with a plane, and sandpaper the edges smooth. 




Fig. 253. —The Completed Hull 

The Superstructure- Deck (B, Figs. 254 and 255) may 
be marked out by placing the hull block upon a board % 
inch thick, and marking out around its sides. The deck 



17" — 



■3i 



-Fi — -*— b : ^ 5 ri B Eg s&ls 



4- -fii'f iif iif iff-iff i|'H 




Fig. 254. — Plan and Side Elevation of Superstructure-Deck 



piece is a trifle more than two-thirds of the length of the 
hull. The dimensions are on the diagrams (Fig. 254). 



i 3 2 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

Openings for the guns must be cut in the deck piece along 
the side edges. The openings are made by boring 3^-inch 
holes y 2 inch deep (Figs. 251 and 255). They are located 
in Fig. 254. The centers are placed y% inch inside of the 





Fig. 255. — Detail Showing How the Superstructure-Deck, Funnels, Masts, 
Fighting-Tops, Gun-Turrets, and Wireless Aerial are Assembled 



edges, so that brads can be driven through the centers for 
pivots for the guns. Bore the holes before cutting out piece 
B, so there will be no danger of splitting the edges. Be care- 
ful to bore all holes of equal depth. 



A TOY SUPERDREADNOUGHT BATTLESHIP 133 






."T - 



OiO 



OiO 



K 



M 



E 



.1 



D 




D 





T 



-Icj 
<3" 



Funnels C, conning-tower E, fighting-tops K, turret bases 
M, and turrets N (Fig. 255) are most easily prepared as 
shown in Figs. 256 and 257. If 
you can get round sticks of this 
diameter — rug-poles or portiere 
poles, — use them; otherwise, 
plane up two blocks, one i}4 
inches square, the other \% 
inches square, describe a circle 
with the given radii upon the 
ends of the blocks, and whittle 
or plane the edges until the 
blocks are round. Finish up the 
surfaces with sandpaper. With 
the blocks prepared, it is an easy 
matter to saw them up to the 
lengths required. 

The tops of 

The Funnels will look better if 
bored out for a depth of 3^ inch 
or so (Fig. 255). Bore the holes 
before rounding the block the 
funnels are to be cut out of, to 
prevent splitting. The funnels 
are fastened to the deck with 
dowel-pins D (Fig. 255). Bore 
the pin holes in the deck where 
located in Fig. 254, and in the 
center of the funnel ends. Coat 



-|CM 



i 



Fig. 257 



Fig. 256 



Fig. 256. — Detail of Funnels 



Fig. 257. — Detail of Conning- 
Tower, Fighting-Tops, Turret 
Bases and Turret 



134 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



the dowel-pins and funnel ends with glue, before driving 
the dowel-pins into the holes. 

Flatten two opposite sides of 
block E (Fig. 257) for 

The Conning-Tower,by cutting 
away a section of each side, as 
shown in Fig. 255. Peg this 
block to the deck with a dowel- 
pin driven into a hole bored at 
the point located in Fig. 254. 

The Masts are built up of 
strips of wire cloth (G and H t 
(Fig. 258) rolled into cylinders 
with a spool inserted in each end 
(I and /, Fig. 255). The strips 
of wire cloth can be rolled around 
the spools. Turn in the raw 
side edges of the wire strips so 
the wire cylinders will hold their 
shape. The sticks running 
through spools / (Fig. 255) are 
crosstrees from which the wire- 
less-telegraph aerial ( U) is suspended. Peg spool I of the 
foremast to block E with dowel-pin F, and peg spool I of 
the aftermost mast to the deck where the dowel-pin hole is 
located in Figs. 254 and 255 with another dowel-pin (F). 
Make the spreaders of 

The Wireless Aerial (Fig. 255) out of slender sticks, and 
use black thread for the wire strands ( U). 




h 

Fig. 258. — Pattern for Cutting 
Wire Cloth for Masts 



A TOY SUPERDREAD NOUGHT BATTLESHIP 135 

Fighting -Tops K are fastened to mast spools / by means 
of dowel-pins L, which are driven into the spool holes. 

The Turret Bases and Turrets. Holes must be bored 
through the center of turret blocks N, turret base blocks 
M, and into the o ^ 

decks (Figs. 251, ^.Jj,—--— ^^ 1" ^Jh^ f^X.' 

253 and 255), for ^^r^^j 4 -illJ ' & 

dowel-pin pivots r^"" ^4 ~~ *> **~*Q 

P to run through. Fig. 259 Fig. 260 • 

These holes are Fig. 259. — Main-Battery Guns 

located in FigS. Fig. 260. - Secondary- Battery Guns 

252 and 254. Make the pivots out of 3^-inch dowel-sticks, 
or whittle sticks to this diameter. Glue the lower ends 
of the pivots in the holes bored in the decks, whittle the 
upper ends to fit the holes in button-moulds measuring 1 % 
inches in diameter (Q, Fig. 255), and glue the button-moulds 
to the pivot ends after the turret base blocks and turret 
blocks have been slipped over the pivots. Holes must be 
bored in the side of the turret blocks for the guns to run 
into. To lessen the danger of splitting the blocks while 
boring, it is best to bore the holes before sawing the blocks 
from the stick from which they are cut. Figure 257 shows 
the location of the holes. 

The Main Battery Guns (0, Fig. 255), mounted in the 
turrets, are shown in detail in Fig. 259. Take a 34-inch 
dowel-stick, or a stick whittled to this diameter, and cut 
from it eight pieces of the length shown (Fig. 261), then 
with a small wood-bit or drill, start a hole for the bore in 
the muzzle end of the guns, and with a jack-knife carefully 



i3 6 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



Hit- 



' 



"■■ 



7 



CM 



--* 



C\| 



n 



v 



i 



CM 






•;1 



HOD 



"i 



-103 



-100 
-100 



"-loo 
-103 

4 

-loo 



fOlco 
•-*■ 

roico 
• + 
fOico 

■•+ 

CO icO 
I— *- 

COKO 
I. jt. 



Fig. 2G2 



1 

Fig. 261 Fig. 263 

Fig. 261 — Detail Showing How to 
Cut the Main-Battery Guns from 
a J^-inch Dowel-Stick 

Fig. 262. — Detail Showing How to 
Cut Secondary - Battery Gun 
Mounts from a ^-inch Dowel-Stick 

Fig. 263. — Detail Showing How to 
Cut Secondary-Battery Guns from 
a V^-inch Dowel-stick 



taper the guns from end to end, 
as shown in Fig. 259. Smooth 
up the guns with sandpaper. 
Glue them in the holes in the 
turret blocks. 

The Secondary-Battery 
Guns are mounted in the round 
blocks R (Fig. 255). Cut four- 
teen of the blocks from a yi- 
inch dowel-stick (Fig. 262). 
With a small bit or drill make 
a pivot hole through the 
center of the ends of each block, 
and another hole in the side 
of the block to run the gun into. 
Prepare the guns of the shape 
shown in Fig. 260. Cut them 
from a dowel-stick y% inch in 
diameter (Fig. 263). Start a 
hole in the muzzle end of each 
gun for the bore. 

The Flagstaff s {V, Fig. 255) 
are 3 inches long. Drill holes 
for them at the bow and stern 
of the decks. 

The Deck-Rails are made of 
strips of wire cloth. Cut two 
strips Y 2 inch wide, one for the 
superstructure deck, the other 



A TOY SUPERDREADNOUGHT BATTLESHIP 137 



for the lower deck. Drive ^-inch brads into the decks 
close to the sides (W, Fig. 264), bend the wire strips around 
the brads, and with wire bind them to the brads. 

By fastening 

Keel Strips X 
(Figs. 265 and 
266) to the bot- 
tom of the hull, 
and mounting 
wheels upon ax- 
els run through 
screw-eyes 
screwed into the 
keel strips (Fig. 
266), for 

A Running- 
Gear, your toy 
battleship will 
both float upon water and run upon land. Cut off the ends 
of a pair of spools for wheels ( F, Fig. 267), and fit 34-inch 
dowel-sticks into them for axles (Z). 
T^__^_ mmm __ MM __ mm ____^ „ Painting. With all work 




Fig. 264. — Detail Showing 
How the Deck- Rails are 
Fastened to Deck 



X 



t"t 



X 






-f'TW 

■-4 



3:: 



done as directed, the dread- 
nought will be ready for its 
coat of battleship - grey. 
The author suggests that 
you paint all parts before 
assembling. It will be easier, and the parts can be allowed 
to become thoroughly dry before they are assembled, which 



Fig. 265. — Side-Elevation and Plan 
of Keel Strips 



138 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



will prevent the sticking of such pivoted parts as the gun- 
turrets and rapid-fire gun mounts. Surfaces marred while 
Assembling can be touched up afterwards. There is not 
much work to putting the model together, when all parts 
have been properly fitted. In mounting the secondary- 




Fig. 266 Fig. 267 

Fig. 266. — Details of Keel Strips and Running-Gear 
Fig. 267. — Detail of Spool Wheels 



battery guns, slip the fourteen gun mounts into the holes 
bored in the deck piece, then nail the deck piece to the hull, 
and drive brad pivots down through the deck and gun 
mounts, into the hull. Figure 255 indicates very plainly 
where the funnels, masts and other parts go, and fastening 
them in place is for the most part simply a job of glueing. 




The toy submarine described on the following pages is 
a model recently devised by the author. A photograph of 
this toy is shown in Fig. 268, on the page facing page 129, 
a side elevation is shown in Fig. 269, and an end elevation 
is shown in Fig. 270. 

This toy submarine dives, then returns to the surface. 

The Mechanism is best understood by referring to the 




\^ 



Fig. 269. — Side Elevation of Completed Toy 
Submarine Shown in Fig. 268. (See photo- 
graph facing Page 129) 



diagrams of Figs. 269 and 270. The central section D is a 
tin can filled with sand, for ballast. One end is supported 
upon a brad, the other end upon the trigger E. Trigger E 
is held by catch J, which slips into a notch cut in the edge 

139 



i 4 o CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



of E. Can D is of sufficient weight when filled with sand, 
to sink the submarine. When the submarine reaches the 
bottom of the bath-tub — a tub furnishes a good "zone" 
for operations — nail F in trigger E comes in contact with 
the tub bottom with sufficient force to throw trigger E out 
of position and release catch /. Catch J is sprung out of 
the way by rubber-band K, trigger E is sprung out of the 
way by rubber-band G (see dotted lines in Fig. 269), and 
can D is released. Relieved of its ballast, the submarine 
rises to the surface. To make the boat dive again, it is but 
necessary to attach the tin can and reset the trigger. 

Instead of having the submarine dive, discharge its weight, 
and instantly rise to the surface, you can 
make the trigger mechanism less delicate, 
so that it will not be sprung by slight 
contact. Then a gentle submersion to 
the tub bottom will not bring about the 
springing of the trigger, and the boat will 
remain upon the bottom. With a stream 
of water from a bath-spray forced against 
the stern, the boat may be propelled for- 
ward, and by directing the force of the 
stream against different portions of the 
boat you can cause the boat to go through 
all sorts of maneuvers, even to rising fig. 270.— End Eieva- 
nearly to the surface. Finally, by driving tion of ToySubmarine 
the contact point forcibly against the foot of the bath tub, 
or against an obstruction placed on the tub bottom, the 
trigger may be sprung, and the boat, relieved of its weight, 
will rise to the surface. 




A TOY SUBMARINE 



141 



The simplicity of the work in making this mechanical toy 
will surprise you. Figure 271 shows a pattern for 




Fig. 271. — Pattern for Hull and Upper Decks 




Fig. 272. — Pattern for Deck Pieces 

The Hull and Upper Decks (A), which are made in one 
piece. Radii for describing the arcs for the bow and stern 
of the hull are not given, because after you have located 
the points for the beginning and end of these curves, as 
shown, you can easily draw them free-hand. The cutting 
can be done with a saw and chisel. Cut the ends of the 
pocket for the tin can weight with a saw, then split out the 
wood between the saw cuts, or kerfs, with a chisel. Taper 
the sides of the bow as shown in Figs. 268 and 273. 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 




Fig. 275 

Fig. 273. — Detail of Hull, Decks and 

Periscopes 
Fig. 274. — Detail of Deck Side Pieces 
Fig. 275. — Tin Can Filled with Sand, - -,. 

for Submerging Ballast Fig. 276 pjr^ 

Figs. 276 and 277. — Detad of Trigger *" 

and Catch 

Figure 272 shows a pattern for deck pieces B. Lay these 
out in one piece, as indicated, cut out the piece, saw it in 
half, and nail the halves to the sides of block A in the posi- 
tions shown (Figs. 269, 270, and 274). 
Strips C (Fig. 269) are 
fastened each side of 
block A (Fig. 270), di- 
rectly below deck pieces 
B, to complete 




Fig. 278. — Detail of Ballast-Pocket Strips 



A TOY SUBMARINE 



143 






Wa> 




The Ballast Pocket for can D. Figure 278 shows a pattern for 
these pocket strips. For the can ballast procure a 3^-pound 
baking-powder can. Pack this full of sand, and if the cover 
fits loosely, coat the edge with paint to make it stick fast. 
Figures 276 and 279 show details of 

The Trigger for Releasing the 
Ballast. Drive the nail F, a 3- 
inch finishing-nail, into the edge 
of the trigger at the angle shown. 
Figures 277 and 280 show how 
1 \ ^L -*-^Att- 4 the trigger catch J is made. The 

bow of the hull must be slotted 
to receive the upper ends of 
trigger E and catch /, as indi- 
cated in Figs. 271 and 273. The 
sides of the slot can be sawed down to the depth indicated 
by a dotted line in Fig. 271, then the wood between the saw 
kerfs can be split out with a chisel. Use brads for pivoting 
the trigger and catch blocks between the sides of the slot. 
Positions for the pivots are located in Fig. 271. 

Figure 269 and Figs. 273 to 277 explain the assembling 
and adjustment of the trigger and catch blocks, also of the 
rubber-bands for springing them. Rubber-band G extends 
from contact nail F to a screw / in the bow (Figs. 273 and 
276). To keep it from interfering with rubber-band K, 
which extends from a brad in the lower end of catch / to 
screw / (Figs. 273 and 277), rubber-band G is run up and 
over a pair of brads ( H) driven into block A upon opposite 
sides, then over to screw / (Fig. 273). 



Fig. 279. — Trigger 

Fig. 280. — Trigger Catch 



144 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

When you have connected the trigger mechanism, you 
will probably find slight readjustments necessary to bring 
about a nicety of operation. To support the stern end of 
the tin can, drive a brad into block A in the position indi- 
cated in Fig. 273. The projecting rim on the can bottom 
will rest upon the head of this brad. 

This type of submarine has two 

Periscopes. Two brass screw-hooks 2 inches in length 
(L, Fig. 269) answer the purpose. Screw a round-head 
screw (M, Figs. 269 and 273) into the bow end of the second 
deck. 

Painting. Use a battleship-grey in painting the toy 
submarine. Remove the rubber-bands, to keep them from 
being gobbed with paint, and sandpaper all surfaces smooth. 

Submerging the Submarine Upon Lake or Pond can be 
done successfully, if provision is made for recovering the 
tin can ballast. Try this scheme. Connect one end of a 
line to the tin can, and retain the other end of the line in 
your hand. After the ballast has been released, it will be 
easy enough to pull it out of the water by means of the line. 





CHAPTER XII 
A FLEET OF TOY BATTLESHIPS 




Make a fleet of toy battleships and submarines, and 
you will be able to have all sorts of fun. With them mounted 
on wheels, you can work out your fleet maneuvers on the 




Fig. 281. — A Simple Toy Battleship 

floor. In conjunction with the fort and toy cannon described 
in the following chapter, you can stage wonderful land and 
naval engagements that will take hours to fight out to a 
finish. If you have never played at miniature warfare with 

145 



7 




Fig. 282. — Detail Showing How the Hull (A), Superstructure- Deck (B), 
Masts (C), Fighting-Tops (D and E), Funnels (G), Conning-Tower 
(H, I,) Gun Turrets (K), Main-Battery Guns (L), Secondary Battery 
Guns ( TV), Running Gear (P, Q, R), and Aerial (5, 7\ Z7) are Assembled 

146 



A FLEET OF TOY BATTLESHIPS 



147 



ships, forts, cannon, and paper and lead soldiers, you don't 
know what exciting fun you have missed. 

In building the ships for a fleet, you probably will not 
want to make them all of the form shown in Fig. 251 of 
Chapter X. Several of that size will do. Make the others 
simpler, of the cruiser types shown in Figs. 281 and 293 of 
this chapter. 




Fig. 283. — Plan and Side Elevation of Hull 



Figure 282 shows a detail of every part required for 
The Battleship shown in Fig. 281, with an indication as 
to how each part is assembled. Dimensions for the parts 
are given in the detail working-drawings of Figs. 283 to 292. 
If you build several ships alike, you will save time by making 
all of the parts for one ship, first, and then using these 
parts as patterns. Mark out and cut the hulls {A) for all the 
other boats, then the decks (B), then the masts (C), and so 
on. Use soft pine, cypress, or other soft wood, for the 
models. 



148 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



In marking out 

The Hull (.4, Fig. 282), draw a center-line upon the 
working material, as shown in Fig. 283, and lay off the 
measurements each side of this, to get the sides alike. 

The Superstructure-Deck (B, Fig. 282) extends three- 
quarters of the length of the hull, and it is of the same shape 
and dimensions as that portion of the hull (Fig. 284); 
therefore, it can be marked out with the hull as a pattern. 
The holes shown along the edge (Fig. 284) are made to 
receive the guns of the secondary-battery, the holes in the 
upper face are made to receive the masts, funnels, etc. 




_ 

_ 6" >j 

1" * r* 1"+ r+ r*l 






9 



H 



Fig. 284. — Plan and Side Elevation of Superstructure-Deck 



The Masts (C, Figs. 282 and 285) can be whittled out of 
sticks, or dowel-sticks can be used. 

The Fighting-Tops (D and E, Fig. 282) are button-moulds 
of the sizes shown in Figs. 286 and 287. The larger one 
(D) must have its hole enlarged so it will slip over the mast, 
the smaller one (E) rests on the mast- top, and is held in 
place by the nail F driven into the mast (Fig. 282). 



A FLEET OF TOY BATTLESHIPS 



149 



"Q 



Fig. 286 



Fig. 287 

I I 

Jfl. 

Figs. 286 and'287. 
— Fighting-Tops 



-IN 



Figure 288 shows a detail of 

The Funnels (G). Use a dowel-stick if you can get one, 
otherwise whittle a stick to the given diameter. 

The Conning-Tower is made of 
two square blocks (H and I, Fig. 
282). Figure 289 shows the sizes 
of the blocks. Nail the blocks 
together, and peg the lower one 
(H) to the deck with dowel-pin / 
(Fig. 282). 

The Gun Turrets (K, Fig. 282) 
are small pieces of dowel-stick 
(Fig. 290). 

The Main-Battery Guns (L), 
mounted in holes bored in the sides 
of the turrets (Fig. 290), are small 
pieces of dowel-stick cut of the 
shape shown in Fig. 291. Drill a small hole through the 
center of the ends of each turret, through which to drive the 
nail pivot M (Fig. 282). 

The Secondary-Battery Guns [(N, Fig. 282) are the ends 
of burnt matches. Figure 292 shows the length to cut them. 



f6 7 



(6 



JL 



Fig. 285.— 
Mast 



TXFig. 288 



V 

CM 

1 



C\! 



H 



Fig. 289 

F 

4« 



Fig. 288. 
Fig. 289. 



kf« 



US 

8 



Funnel 

Details of Conning Tower 



This toy model is 
mounted upon 
wheels so that it 
can be run upon 
the floor, as well as 
floated upon water. 
Use 



i 5 o CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
JUL. Fro. ^^VK Fig. Spool Wheels (P, Fig. 

&====? 291 l^^^J 290 282 ) , cut tne stick axles 

■ (? to fit snugly in the 

i N s= |k. I -" q spool holes, and support 

k-^'V ^iS; '^3'L the axle ends with screw- 

4- 292 ^4 

eyes R, screwing these 

Fig. 290. — ■ Turret and Guns . . 

Figs. 291 and 292. — Guns into the hull. 

The Wireless Aerial is suspended between the mast- tops 
(Fig. 282). Use toothpicks for spreaders S and thread 
for wire strands T and end loops U. 

The Cruiser shown in Fig. 293 is propelled by a paddle- 
wheel operated by a twisted rubber-band. The rubber- 
band untwists rapidly, so that the boat does not travel far 
before a re-twisting is necessary, but boys who have made 
this model have been satisfied with the results, so the author 
believes that you will be satisfied, also. 

Figure 294 shows a plan of the completed ship. The 
method of construction is quite similar to that of the battle- 
ship just described, so read over the instructions for making 
that model before beginning work on this one. 

The Hull (A) is shown in plan in Fig. 295. After marking 
this out and cutting it, in the same way as described for 
the other model, prepare the blocks which form 

The Superstructure-Deck (B and C, Figs. 296 and 297). 
Cut block B out of material %-inch thick, by the width and 
length given. Bore the turret openings along the sides 
before cutting out the block, to prevent splitting it. Make 
these openings 1 inch in diameter. You will find the 
location of their centers shown upon the diagram. Holes E 




Fig. 293. — Toy Battleship with Propeller 




Fig. 294. — Plan of Completed Toy Battleship 



T TT 



7!? '-** 



1w« 



l: 



I 



-L.\ 



7 — 



Fig. 295. — Plan of Hull 
151 




152 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



are for the funnel ends to fit in. Make them Y% inch in diam- 
eter. Holes F are for the mast ends to fit in. Bore them 



inch in diameter. 



L 



% <h c ty * 



Fig. 
297 




Fig. 
296 



in the positions indicated making them 

Cut block C of the 
same width and length 
as block B, out of mate- 
rial \i inch thick. Bore 
holes E and F through 
it in the same places as 
those bored through 



H |'l^-i r-4 — 2$ M £-+£i 

block 5, SO that When FlGs . 296 and 297. -Plans of Superstructure- 

the two blocks are placed Deck Blocks 

together, the holes will come over one another (Fig. 298). 

The eight revolving 

Gun Turrets (D, Fig. 294) can be sawed from a broom 
handle or portiere-pole. Figure 299 shows the size to cut 
them. The hole in the side is made to receive a gun. The 
turrets "fore and aft" have two holes each, for two guns. 
Another small hole must be drilled through the center of 
the ends of the turrets, as a provision for pivoting the turrets 
so that they will revolve. 

Figure 298 shows the size to cut 

The Main-Battery Guns. If you want to save work, do 
not taper the sides of the guns as shown. The tapering, 
however, adds much to their appearance. 

The Secondary-Battery Guns. Set five of these in holes 
bored along each side of the hull, and three in holes in each 
side edge of deck piece C. (Fig. 293). You can cut these 
like the main battery guns. 



A FLEET OF TOY BATTLESHIPS 



153 



The Funnels (E, Fig. 298) are shown in detail in Fig. 300. 
They drive down through the holes bored in blocks B and 
C of the deck. 

The Masts (F) 
are \i inch in diam- 
eter and 6 inches 
long. Slip spools G 
upon them to come 
at the foot, and half- 
way between the 
spools and the mast- 
tops fasten the spool 
ends H for 

Fighting- Tops. 
You will find it easy 
to cut off the ends 
of a spool if you will 
slip a stick through 
the spool, to hold the 
spool by while saw- 
ing. 

The first step in 

Assembling the 
model consists in 
nailing block B to 
hull A in the posi- 
tion indicated by Fig. 298. — Detail Showing How Superstructure- 
dotted lines in Fig Deck ( Ban d Q, Gun Turrets (D), Funnels 
r-,, (E), Masts (F), and Fighting-Tops (if) are 
295. Then mount Assembled 






154 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



the gun- turrets, six to turn in the openings in the sides of 
block B, the remaining two "fore and aft" \i inch from 
the ends of block B. 




8 ± 



P<l? 



E, 



LiX 



Fig. 299 



Fig. 300 



Fig. 299 - 
Fig. 300. 



Detail of Gun Turret 
— Detail of Funnel 




LUW.I 






Having mounted 
the turrets, nail 
deck block C to 
block B. 

The Paddle - 
Wheel (Fig. 301) is 
made of two pieces 
(/and/, Fig. 302), 
halved together — 
that is, each piece 
has a slot cut across 
half its depth, so 
that the two will 
interlock as shown 
in Fig. 301. Cut 
the pieces out of 
wood y% inch thick. 
Drive a double- 
pointed tack into 
the center of each 

end of the assembled paddle-wheel, and connect a rubber- 
band to each tack. Then take a pair of screw-eyes, open each 
eye enough to form a hook (K, Fig. 303), screw the pair 
into the corners of the stern of the hull, at the angle shown 
in Figs. 293 and 294, and slip the ends of the rubber-bands 
over them. By setting the screw-eyes at the angle indi- 




Fig. 301 Fig. 303 Fig. 302 

Figs. 301-303. — Details of Propeller 



A FLEET OF TOY BATTLESHIPS 



155 



cated, there is greater length of rubber-band to twist in 
winding the motor. This is important. 

If you make this cruiser model for your indoor battleship 
fleet, you had better mount it upon wheels in the same 
manner as the model shown in Fig. 281 is mounted. 




CHAPTER XIII 



TOY ARTILLERY AND 
MINIATURE WARFARE 




Miniature battles fought with toy soldiers and toy 
artillery can be made as scientific as those of real war, if 
one understands military tactics. Without that knowledge, 
however, you can make up your own rules of warfare, and 
the author believes that no more interesting game for an 
evening, or for a whole day, in fact, could be found. That 
more boys do not play with toy soldiers is probably because 
they haven't sufficient properties for staging a battle. A 
handful of soldiers and "dummy" cannon will not answer 
the purpose. There must be men and equipment enough 
for two opposing armies, and the guns must be of a type 
that shoot play shells, else they will afford little excitement. 

When visiting several large toy shops recently, the author 
was impressed with the completeness of equipment for 
miniature warfare, yet realized how impractical it was to 
expect that the average boy with limited pocket-money 
might buy enough of the equipment for a battle-field 
setting. Then he remembered as a lad how easily he had 
made guns, forts, etc., for miniature battles, and he decided 
to show you how you can do the same. Accordingly, when 
he went home he summoned his own lead soldiers, who had 
last seen service some twenty-five years ago, and to a man 

156 



\ 














TOY ARTILLERY AND MINIATURE WARFARE 157 



they responded (including three men decapitated by shell 
fire in one of the engagements of the early nineties). A 
"munition factory" was then organized, miniature fortifica- 
tions built, and a battlefield prepared with men and artillery 
in battle formation, as pictured in the photograph of Fig. 304. 
If you do not own any lead soldiers, you will find a good 
type of soldiers in the stores right now that sell at 50 cents 
a dozen. Paper soldiers can be purchased for 2 cents a 
dozen. Lead soldiers look best, of course, but paper soldiers 
serve excellently. The author never owned more than a 
small company of /y 

lead soldiers, and // 

therefore depended 

upon paper soldiers / / 

for the main fighting /*'*-/ 

strength of his / / 

armies. 



Next to toy sol- 
diers in importance 
are guns,and in Figs. 
305 and 306 you will 

find two excellent Fig. 307. - Detail of Field ArtUIery Gun 

models that are not hard to make. Shaping the guns is a 
simple problem in boring and whittling. 

A working detail of 

The Field Artillery Gun is shown in Fig. 307. The gun 
tube is made in two pieces, as is shown in the longitudinal 
section of Fig. 308 (A and B). Use straight-grained soft 




158 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



pine, free from knots and other defects for the tube pieces. 
First cut a pair of blocks to the dimensions of A and B 
(Figs. 309 and 310). Then with a ^-inch bit bore a hole 



B 



X 



Fig. 308 





Fig 314 D^/77^ : r jrrr.. !i jw**~-"s i- w - — — "#« 

*5-£, — a 

r, 0,0 Fig. 315 
Fig. 313 

Fig. 308. — ■ Longitudinal Section of Gun Shown in Fig. 307 
Figs. 309 and 310. — Wooden Blocks Required for Tube of Gun 
Figs. 311 and 312. — How the Blocks are Bored and Shaped 
Figs. 313 and 314. — Details of Plunger 
Fig. 315. — Detail of ^-inch Shell 

through the entire length of block A, at its center. A hole 
must be bored through block B from end to end, also, but 
three diameters must be used for this hole, as is indicated 
by dotted lines in Fig. 310. To make this hole, first bore 



TOY ARTILLERY AND MINIATURE WARFARE 159 

a hole z /i inch deep with a %-inch bit, then with a ^-inch 
bit and the same center, continue the hole for a distance of 
3 inches, and from that point bore the hole through the 
remaining ^-inch length of the block with a 34-mch bit. 
In order to produce a bore that is straight, it is necessary 
to bore the holes exactly in a straight line. 

With the blocks bored, put a keen edge upon your jack- 
knife blade, preparatory to 

Shaping the Outside of the Gun. Figures 311 and 312 
show the diameters to which the blocks should be cut. 
Shape down the small end of each block first, then work 
back to the other end. At the muzzle end of the block A, 
make the wood around the bore as thin as you can cut it 
without cutting through, and from that point taper the 
wood up to the other end. Round off the breech end of 
block B, and^taper off the other end, as shown. 

After cutting, sandpaper the surfaces of both pieces of 
the tube until absolutely smooth, and see that the end of 
piece A fits snugly into the hole in the end of B; these 
sections are to be glued together later. 

The Plunger (C, Fig. 308) may be either a piece of a 
dowel-stick, or a stick whittled round, of the size shown in 
Fig. 313. Drill a small hole through the plunger stick 1 3^2 
inches from one end, slip a piece of spring-brass wire through 
the hole, and wind the wire loosely around the stick to about 
the point shown, to form a spiral spring. Slip the end of 
the plunger into section B of the gun, and out through the 
hole in the breech. Saw off the end of a spool (D, Fig. 314), 
glue it upon the end of the plunger (Fig. 308), and drive a 



160 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

small brad through the spool end into the plunger end, to 
reinforce the connection. 

Test the Gun to see that the spring rebounds properly- 
after its compression, before you glue sections A and B 
together. Figure 315 shows a detail of the 

Three -Eighths Inch Shells. These can be sawed up 
quickly, to the given length, if you will cut them from a 
^Hs-inch dowel-stick. Taper one end of each shell to a 
point, as shown, and sandpaper smooth. To make the 
shells discharge from the gun with a minimum amount of 
friction, wax them and wax the bore of the gun. 

If you find that the spring does not recoil satisfactorily, 
try a smaller or larger gauge of brass wire. Provided you 
use spring-brass wire, you should have no trouble with the 
coil. Space the turns of the coil about as shown in Fig. 313. 
With the spring properly adjusted, glue together the two 
sections of the gun tube, and the gun will be ready for 
mounting on 

The Gun-Carriage. Figure 316 shows a rear elevation 
of the mounted gun, and Fig. 317 shows a detail of the 
carriage framework. The pair of carriages F may be 
prepared in one piece, cut out of a piece of wood 5 A inch 
thick, then sawed in half. Figure 318 shows a dimensioned 
pattern for marking out the piece. The 3^-inch hole is for 
the wheel axle; the H-inch hole is for the trunnion screws 
on which the gun is to be mounted. Separator block G 
(Fig. 317) braces the trail of the carriage. Make it of the 
size shown in Fig. 319. Before fastening carriages F to G, 



Fig. 323 



F 




Fig. 317 



Fig. 316.— Rear Elevation of Mounted Gun Fig. 320. —Wheels 
£ IG ' o!o ~? etai1 of Gun Carri age Fig. 321. — Spool Wheel Hub 

£IG. dlS.— Pattern for Carriages Fig. 322. — Wheel Axle 

1<ig. 319.— Carriage Separator Block Fig. 323. — Bed Block for Gun 

161 



162 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

cut wheel axle K (Fig. 322), and slip it into the holes bored 
for it, to keep the holes opposite one another while you nail 
the pieces together. 

The Gun-Carriage Wheels (I) may be prepared in one 
piece, then sawed in half. Figure 320 shows the pattern. 
The best way to cut a wheel is to saw out the pieces roughly, 
first, then trim up to the finish line with a sharp chisel, and 
sandpaper the edge smooth. The wheel hubs are spool 
ends (J, Fig. 321). Fasten them to the wheels with glue. 
Drive brads through the axle ends for pins to keep the 
wheels from coming off. 

Mounting the Gun, Because of the thinness of the tube 
of the gun, the screw trunnions cannot be driven into it. 
The gun must be mounted upon a bed block (E, Figs. 316 
and 323), and the trunnions screwed into the block's sides. 
The upper side of block E must be curved the same as the 
surface of the gun. To get the right curve, bore a i-inch 
hole through a block, then cut this block through at the 
center of the hole, and trim it up to the dimensions shown 
in the diagram of Fig. 323. Glue the gun to the bed block, 
and when the glue has set drive a small screw through each 
carriage into it. 

The Elevating Device of this home-made gun is simple. 
Drive four brads into the top edge of each carriage (Fig. 
317), and cut the cross-bar H to slip between the brads. 
The bar can be adjusted to four positions. 

The Siege Gun shown in Fig. 306 is made in much the 
same way as the field artillery gun just described. In the 
detail of the completed gun (Fig. 324), the dotted lines 



1 



TOY ARTILLERY AND MINIATURE WARFARE 163 

indicate two of the positions to which the gun can be 
elevated. The carriage is pivoted like a turntable to 
provide for shifting the position laterally. 

Figure 325 shows *■> 

a longitudinal sec- 
tion of the gun. The 
tube is made of two 
pieces {A and B), 
and Figs. 326 and 
327 show the dimen- 
sions of the blocks 
out of which to cut 
them. Bore a 5 A- 
inch hole through 
the center of block FlG * 324 - ~ DetaI1 of Siege ArtilIer y Gun 
A, from end to end, and a hole of the same size through 
all but 34 inch of the length of block B; then with a 34-inch 
bit bore a hole through the remaining 34~i ncn of the length 
of block B (Fig. 327). Care must be taken to bore the 
holes absolutely straight, else the bore of the gun will not 
be straight, and the toy shells will lose momentum before 
leaving the muzzle of the gun. 

The first step in 

Shaping the Gun is similar to that of shaping the field 
artillery gun. Whittle off the edges of blocks A and B 
as shown in Figs. 328 and 329. The sides of block B must 
be kept straight; the sides of block A must taper to a smaller 
diameter at the muzzle end. Figures 330 and 331 give 
the diameters for the finished ends. In trimming up block 




i6 4 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

A, cut the flange at the muzzle end to the same diameter 
as the opposite end (i-inch), then taper the wood from the 
opposite end towards the flange, making the thickness over 
the bore directly back of the flange, not much more than 
the thickness of paper. Round block B at both ends, as 
shown in Fig. 331. The pieces will then be ready for sand- 
papering. 

Pieces A and B are connected by the tube C, a spool 
(Fig. 332) with its flanges cut off, and its sides whittled to 
fit snugly in the bores of A and B (Figs. 325 and 332). 
Before joining the gun-tube sections, however, 

The Plunger for projecting the toy shells (D, Fig. 325) 
must be prepared, and be fastened in place in the breech 
end of the bore. Drill a hole through rod Dij^ inches from 
one end, stick the end of a piece of spring-brass wire through 
the hole (Fig. 333), and wrap several turns of the wire about 
the rod to form a spiral spring (Fig. 334). With the spring 
prepared, stick the rod through the breech opening, and 
fasten a spool-end upon it with glue and a brad (E, Figs. 
325 and 335). 

When you have tried out the gun and found it to fire 
satisfactorily with 

One-half Inch Shells (Fig. 336), cut out of dowel-sticks 
in the way that the shells for the other gun were made, glue 
together parts A, B, and C. 

The Gun Carriage is shown in detail in Fig. 337. Cut 
carriages A in one piece, out of %-inch stuff (Fig. 338), 
then saw in hah for the pair. Drill a hole where indicated, 
through which to run the trunnions on which the cannon is 




Fig. 331 

Fig. 332 Fig.333 

Fig. 325. — Longitudinal Section of Gun Shown in Fig. 324 
Figs. 326 and 327. — Wooden Blocks Required for Tube of Gun 
Figs. 328 and 329. — How the Blocks are Bored and Shaped 
Figs. 330 and 331. — Tube Blocks Completed 
Fig. 332. — Spool Connector 

Figs. 333-335. — Details of Plunger Fig. 336. — Half-inch Shell 

165 



i66 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



to be mounted. Cut base block B to the dimensions given 
in Fig. 339, nail the carriages to its sides, and drive lever C 
into a hole bored in one end. Cut turntable base D of the 
size shown in Fig. 340, bore a screw-hole through its center 
and drive a screw through the hole into base B of the gun 
carriage. The trunnion screws on which the gun is mounted, 
can be screwed through the holes in carriages A directly 



Fig. 
338 





-2-q sMq— * — lg- 




L, 2-H 
C 

Fig. 339 
Fig. 337. — Detail of Gun-Carriage 



H 

Fig. 340 
Fig. 339. — Carriage Base 



Fig. 338. — Pattern for Carriages Fig. 340. — Turntable Base 

into tube B of the gun, because the thickness of the wood 
around the bore is yi inch. Do not drive the screws deeper 
than one-half of this thickness. 

The Elevating Device is the same as that provided for 
the other gun (Fig. 337). 



TOY ARTILLERY AND MINIATURE WARFARE 167 

You can leave your guns without 

Painting, but a coat of black or grey paint will much 
improve their appearance. Do not attempt to paint the 
inside of the bores; in fact, be careful not to let any paint 
run into them, for this would gum them up, and possibly 
spoil the action of the plunger. 

Figure 341 shows 

A Fortification made out of a piece of 2 by 4. Figure 342 
shows how to mark out the embrasures, or openings for guns. 




Fig. 341. — Fortification 

Cut down the sides of the embrasures with a saw, and split 
out the wood between the saw kerfs with a chisel. 

Pieces cut from a 3^-inch dowel-stick, 2^ inches long, 
with a hole started in one end of each (Fig. 343), will answer 
admirably for play 

Disappearing Guns. Drive a tack into the breech end 
I of each gun, and another into the fortification, beneath each 
embrasure, then connect the tacks with pieces of string 
(Fig. 341). The purpose of the strings is merely to keep 
the guns from becoming separated from the fort, and getting 
lost. 



168 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



A Flagstaff is mounted in the center embrasure of the 
fortification, instead of a gun (Fig. 341). Stick a small 
flag in a block of wood, set the block in the embrasure, and 
connect a string to tacks driven into the block and into 
the fortification. As the flag is to be fired upon, don't use 
an American flag. That would be an act of disloyalty. 



7T7 



TT 



ra 



y4£Mhhjhhk^iWhU#ih£iti*-3£\ 



■-v 



'4- 



Z" 




Fig. 343 '€&^ Fig. 344 

Fig. 342. — Pattern for Fortification 
Fig. 343. — Detail of Gun Fig. 344. — Flagstaff 

You can make a small flag by fastening a piece of cardboard 
to the end of a stick, as shown in Fig. 344. 

Suggestions for 

Laying Out the Battlefield will be obtained from the 
photograph of Fig. 304. Books piled up along a wall of a 
room, and covered with a rug, will give elevation and 
perspective to the background. Notice that the borders of 
the rug used in the battle scene shown in Fig. 304 make 
roads. Hang a sheet from tacks driven into the picture- 
moulding, for a sky background. Build small houses, 
churches, and other buildings out of cardboard. Use 



TOY ARTILLERY AND MINATURE WARFARE 169 

evergreen twigs for trees. Make tents out of small pieces 
of cardboard folded V-shape. The author wishes that he 
might show some of the other battle scenes he has modeled, 
with hills, valleys, streams, bridges, etc., but space does 
not permit it. 

There are many ways of waging miniature wars. You 
can make and develop your own rules for righting, and for 
determining the victors. Mr. H. G. Wells, the English 
author, literary critic, and war correspondent, wrote an 
interesting volume several years ago, entitled "Little Wars ," 
which, if you can procure at your local public library, will 
give you many valuable suggestions for operating on both 
a large and a small scale. Mr. Wells has spent several days 
at a stretch, with friends, in working out miniature war 
manuevers, and you will find his descriptions of battles 
won and lost, intensely interesting. The author's miniature 
battles, participated in by his brother, and his chum Captain 
David Ross Fraser, U. S. A., will always be remembered by 
each as among the most thrilling of their boyhood pastimes. 
Battles were fought out to a finish, until every gun on one 
side had been silenced, every man slain. 





CHAPTER XIV 
SAND-MOTOR TOYS 




You can do more with a sand-motor than operate the 
paddle-wheel. It is about as powerful as a small electric- 
motor, and there are many pieces of toy machinery and 
other devices which can be rigged up and operated by it. 

In the photograph of Fig. 345 you will see 

A Practical Sand-Motor rigged up to run a toy trip- 
hammer and a toy grind-stone. When you have learned 
the way to connect up these toys, you will have no difficulty 
in devising other pieces of toy machinery; in fact, you can 
equip a miniature machine-shop. 

Figure 347 shows a longitudinal section of the completed 
toy. You can make the base any size that you want. 
That for the model illustrated (A), is 6 inches wide and 
22 inches long. 

The Sand-Hopper (B) is an 8-inch tin funnel, costing 
5 cents. Cut the hopper supports (C, Fig. 348), 20 inches 
long, bevel the top of each as shown in Fig. 349, to fit the 
sides of the funnel, tack the funnel to the beveled surfaces, 
and nail the lower ends of the uprights to the base. 

Figure 347 shows a cross-section of 

The Paddle-Wheel. Figures 350 to 353 show details of 

the wheel's construction. The wheel hub (D f Fig. 353) 

170 




Fig. 345. — Toy Machinery can be Operated by the Sand-Motor. 



SAND-MOTOR TOYS 



171 



is a spool, the wheel ends (E) and the paddles (F) are of 
cardboard. Cut the wheel end pieces of the size shown 
in Fig. 351, the paddles of the size shown in Fig. 352. To 
assemble the wheel, tack one end piece to the spool hub at 
its exact center, and fasten the paddles to that end by means 



°T% 




Fig. 347. — Longitudinal Section through Sand-Motor Toy 

of pins run through it into the edges of the paddles. Rule 
lines across the end piece so as to divide it into eight equal 
parts; then you will have no difficulty in spacing the paddles 
equidistantly. When the paddles have been fastened to 
one end piece, tack the other piece to the hub, and fasten 
it likewise to the paddle edges with pins. 

For Shafting, use carpenter dowel-sticks }£ ' mc ^ i* 1 
diameter. 

For Pulley-Wheels use spools. Fasten a spool pulley to 
each side of the paddle-wheel, slip a piece of dowel-stick 
through the spool holes, for a shaft, and support the shaft 



172 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

ends in screw-eyes driven into a pair of uprights (H, Fig. 
350) fastened next to the sand-hopper supports (Fig. 347). 
Drive brass upholstering- 
tacks into the shaft ends 
to prevent them from 
pulling through the screw- 
eyes. 

The Position of the 
Paddle-Wheel must be as 
shown in Fig. 347, so the 
falling sand will strike 
upon the ends of the 
paddles. A tomato can 
(/, Fig. 347) catches the 
sand after it passes over 
the paddles of the wheel. 
It is best to have a pair 
of these cans, so that as 
soon as one fills it may be 
removed, and the second 
can quickly be slipped into 
its place. The filled can 
may then be emptied back 
into the sand-hopper. 

The paddle-wheel will throw forward part of the sand; 
therefore, to catch this sand, it is a good plan to make a 
cardboard chute similar to K (Fig. 347), and fasten its 
turned up edges to the hopper supports, and suspend its 
outer end by means of string run from it to the edge of the 




Fig. 348 



Fig. 348. — Cross-Section Looking toward 

Sand- Hopper and Paddle- Wheel 
Fig. 349. — Detail of Hopper Support 






91 



SAND-MOTOR TOYS 



173 



hopper. In the photograph (Fig. 345), the chute was 
removed so as not to obstruct the view of the paddle-wheel. 
A small proportion of sand will spill even with the chute in 
position. To keep this from running off the base onto the 
floor, it is a good plan to make a ledge by nailing the strips 
L (Fig. 347) to the base edges. An opening at one corner 
(Fig. 345) will provide an outlet through which to pour out 
the spilt sand occasionally. 

Sand for Motor. If you can get beach sand for the 
hopper, get it. If you cannot, take coarser sand (builder's 




Fig. 350 




Fig. 351 



Fig. 352 



Fig. 353 



Fig. 350. — Sand- Motor Wheel Fig. 351. — End Piece of Wheel 
Fig.352. — Paddle Fig.353. — How End, Paddle and Spool Hub are Assembled 



torpedo sand, or any kind you can get) and screen out the 
finer particles through a piece of screen wire. Sand too 
coarse to go through screen-wire will clog the hopper outlet. 
If the sand is damp, it must be dried out to prevent caking. 
The Toy Trip -Hammer. Uprights M at the end of the 
base opposite to that on which the sand-motor is mounted 



174 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

(Figs. 347 and 354), support shafting and pulleys operated 
by belts from the paddle-wheel. One of the shafts operates 



Fig. 355 




Fig. 354 



Fig. 356 



Fig. 354. — ■ Cross-Section Looking Toward Framework Supporting Toy 

Trip-Hammer 
Figs. 355 and 356. — Details of Spool Pulleys, and Trip-Hammer 

the trip-hammer. The trip-hammer consists of a piece of 
pencil or dowel-stick (N, Figs. 347, 354 and 356), which 
slides up and down through a pair of screw-eyes screwed 



SAND-MOTOR TOYS 



i7S 



into one of the uprights M. A screw-eye in the top of the 
trip-hammer stick provides a point of attachment for the 
hoisting-cable; a round-headed tack in the lower end forms 
the hammer head, and a second round-headed tack driven 
into the base serves as an anvil. 

The hoisting-cable attached to the top of rod N must run 
up to and be tied around a beam (0) fastened across the 
tops of supports M (Fig. 354). This cable must be tripped 
by means of a tripper finger (P), a piece of tin folded in half 
and inserted in a slot cut in the side of a spool (Q, Fig. 355). 
Fasten this spool and another spool (R) upon a shaft (S), 
and mount this shaft upon screw-eye bearings screwed into 





Fig. 357 Fig. 358 

Figs. 357 and 358. — Details of Toy Grindstone, Belt and Pulley 



the outer face of uprights M in the positions shown. Once 
during every revolution of the shaft, tripper ringer P will 
strike the hoisting-cable and raise the hammer as shown 
in Fig. 347, releasing it in passing, and letting the hammer 
drop upon the anvil. Run a string belt from spool pulley 
R over to one of the spool pulleys G on the paddle-wheel 
(Fig. 348). 



176 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



The Toy Grindstone. Spool pulley T on the lower shaft 
V (Fig. 354) is belted to the second spool pulley G on the 
paddle-wheel, and spool-pulley U on shaft V is belted to 




Fig. 359. — Detail of Standard for Teeter Toy Shown in Fig. 346 
Fig. 360. — Detail of Sand-Hopper Fig. 361. — Detail of Teeter 

a toy grind-stone built as shown in Figs. 357 and 358, with 
a base block W, uprights X, stone Y, and spool pulley Z. 
Mount the wheels in the same way that the other wheels 
are mounted. 



SAND-MOTOR TOYS 



177 



The Teeter Toy. This sand toy, shown in Fig. 346, 
is built with a sand-motor of its own. 

The Standard supporting the teeter is shown in detail 
in Fig. 359. Cut uprights A of the size shown in Fig. 362, 
base B of the size shown in Fig. 363. Fasten the uprights 
to the base 3 inches apart. 



;t Fig. 
~<& 366 



Fig. 
363 




H-4--H 



k 8- 



fig. r 

365 t 



--a- 



-16"- 



Fig. 362. — Pattern of Standard Upright Fig. 363. — Pattern of Base 
Fig. 364. — Pattern of Hopper Sides Fig. 365. — Pattern of Teeter 

Fig. 366. — Pattern of Teeter Sand- Pocket 



The Hopper is made of four pieces (D and E, Fig. 360). 
Cut a square piece of 3^-inch board of the size shown in 
Fig. 364, and saw it in half from corner to corner, for side 
pieces D\ cut end pieces E 2 inches wide by the length of 
the short edges of the side pieces. Lap the end pieces, and 
nail together, then nail sides D to their side edges. Bore a 
hole through the center of the hopper bottom (Fig. 360) for 
a sand outlet, then fasten the hopper between supports A, 
so the bottom is 3 inches below the top of the supports. 



i 7 8 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



The Teeter must be light in weight, and must be delicately 
balanced, so it will respond quickly to the overbalancing 
action of sand dropping 
into the pockets at the 
center. In making his 
first model, the author 
used a thin stick for the 
teeter plank, but found 
that it was too heavy. 
In the model shown in 
Fig. 346, a strip of card- 
board folded in three was 
used (F, Fig. 361), and 
the weight of this is just 
right. Cut the strip of 
cardboard of the size 
shown in Fig. 365, score it 
from end to end, % inch 
from each edge, as indi- 
cated by dotted lines in 
the pattern, and bend over 
the edges. By bending 
the strip in this way, it 
will be stiffened sufficient- 
ly to carry the weight of 
the sand dropping upon it FlG> 367 _ Boy for Teeter 

at the Center, and the Fig. 368. — Pattern of Boy's Body 

weight of the cardboard l 1G - »?■ ~ P attern ° f f *??'* Jf£ 

° Fig. 370. — Pattern of Girl's Body 

dolls On the ends. The Fig. 371. — Pattern of Girl's Leg 





SAND-MOTOR TOYS 179 

center sand-pockets are formed with the piece of cardboard 
G (Fig. 361), cut of the shape and size shown in Fig. 366, 
and the separator block H, which is \i inch thick, 1 inch 
wide, and 2 y 2 inches long. Tack the folded piece of card- 
board G to the sides of block H, and glue the teeter-board 
strip F, at its center, to the under side of the pockets. 

The teeter must be fas- 
tened between the supports 
so there will be y 2 inch space 
between the top of block H 
and the outlet in the hopper, 
and so the outlet will be 

exactly Over the Center of Fig. 372. - Tin Can Sand Scoop 

the top of block H. Use nails for pivots, and drill holes 
through uprights A a trifle larger than the nails, so the nails 
will turn easily Use halves of spools for washers (I, Fig. 
361), to fill the space between the sides of the sand-pockets 
and the uprights. 

Strips C (Fig. 359) are nailed to the side edges of uprights 
A to act as bumpers. Their purpose is to prevent the teeter 
from tilting too far. In the model shown in the photograph, 
the strips are placed 1% inches below the level of the nail 
pivots. Adjust the strips on your model so as to have the 
teeter tilt to whatever angle you want it to go. 

How the Teeter Toy Works. When the sand-hopper is 
filled with sand free from pebbles and dirt that would clog 
the outlet, the teeter is set in motion. The sand pours into 
whichever sand pocket is tilted uppermost, until the weight 
is sufficient to cause an overbalance, then the end of the 



180 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

teeter board on that side of the center drops until the 
bumper C is struck. As soon as the teeter tilts in this 
direction, the sand empties out of the pocket, and the sand 
from the hopper pours into the other pocket, now upper- 
most, until the weight again overbalances, and the teeter 
inclines in the other direction. Once begun, the teetering 
movement continues as long as sand remains in the hopper. 

The teeter toy requires a couple of 

Doll Teeterers. In Fig. 367 you will see how to make a 
boy doll. The pattern of the body in Fig. 368, and pattern 
of the legs in Fig. 369, are shown full-size. Make a tracing 
of each pattern, and transfer the tracing upon light-weight 
cardboard or heavy note-paper. Glue the legs to the sides 
of the body as shown in Fig. 367. Figure 370 shows a 
pattern for the body of the girl doll, and Fig. 371a pattern 
for the legs. Glue only the tip ends of the legs to the body. 
Slot each end of the teeter, slip the end of the doll body into 
the slot, and bend out the legs to straddle the teeter, as 
shown in Fig. 346. 

A Sand Scoop for throwing used sand back into the 
hopper, can be made by cutting away part of the side of a 
tin can, and nailing the can bottom to the end of a stick 
handle, as the scoop shown in Fig. 372 is made. 





CHAPTER XV 

A TOY DERRICK-CRANE WITH 
CLOCKWORK MOTOR 




All boys are interested in making things that "run," 
yet, surprisingly, few who have not had the possibilities 
demonstrated to them through the author's handicraft 
books and articles, think of utilizing clockwork for motive 
power. Those of you readers who have built the models 
described in The Boy Craftsman, Handicraft for Handy 
Boys, and Home-Made Toys for Girls and Boys, know 
that clockwork toys are among the best of home-made 
mechanical toys. You will not need to be told that the 
derrick-crane illustrated in Figs. 373 and 374 is well worth 
the time and effort required to make it. 

One of the good points about using 

Clockwork for Toy Motors is that any boy can obtain a 
set. The lifetime of the common form of alarm-clock is 
short enough to make discarded clocks plentiful, and all 
that a boy has to do, in case there isn't a worn-out clock at 
home, is to make inquiry of a friend or relative. Almost 
every one would be glad to have turned to account the 
clock that has become useless to him. 

Figure 375 shows a clockwork converted into a motor 
for the toy derrick-crane. Besides removing the clock 

hands, it is necessary to remove the balance-wheel (A, Fig. 

181 



182 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



376) and the little lever (B) pivoted next to it. This is done 
to increase the speed of the clockwork. The wheel and 
pivot can be flipped out of their positions after the nuts 
which hold the frame together have been loosed. 



^TOMAST 
jf PULLEY 




K-r 1 -*! 



z 

Vro -BOOM 
PULLEY 




Fig. 377 



Fig. 376 



Fig. 375. — Detail of Clockwork Motor. Rubber-Band Belts, Spool Pulleys 

and Drums 
Fig. 376. — Balance-Wheel and Lever to be Removed from Clockwork 
Fig. 377. — Detail of Drum Frame Upright 



The Pulley Wheel for belting up the clockwork motor 
to the toy is a short silk- thread spool (C, Fig. 375), fastened 
to the pivot from which the clock hands were removed. 
This spool may be fastened either with sealing-wax or 
solder. Lay the clockwork upon its back, center the spool 
on the pivot, and pour in the melted wax or solder; but be 










A. 



Fig. 373.— The Toy Derrick-Crane with Clockwork Motor. 



A TOY DERRICK-CRANE 183 

sure to protect the surrounding wheels by placing a piece 
of paper over them, especially if you use solder, otherwise 
you are likely to spill the solder on the wheels and unite 
them into a solid mass. 

For Pulley-Belts, buy a couple of rubber-bands % inch 
wide and 2% inches long (D, Fig. 375). The purpose of 
one of the rubber-band belts is to turn the drum on which 
the cable is wound that raises the derrick boom; the purpose 
of the other rubber-band belt is to turn the drum on which 
the hoisting-cable is wound. The belts run from the spool 
pulleys F joined to the spool drums E, to the spool pulley C 
on the clock work motor (Figs. 375 and 378). By the two- 
belt arrangement, one or both winding-drums can be turned 
at a time, by slipping one or both belts upon pulley C on 
the clockwork motor. When only one belt is connected up, 
the other is slipped over the nail / (Fig. 375) to lock the 
winding-drum which it turns. By giving the belt a half 
twist before slipping it over the pulley, as shown in Fig. 
375, the drum will turn in the direction opposite to that in 
which it turns when it runs straight over the pulley; there- 
fore, the winding and unwinding of the drums depend upon 
whether the belts run straight or are twisted. Five opera- 
tions can be controlled. The cable can be wound upon one 
drum while the other drum is locked (Fig. 375), or it can 
be unwound, both cables can be wound or unwound simul- 
taneously, and one cable can be wound while the other 
cable is being unwound. Also, both belts can be thrown 
off the motor pulley, and looped on to the nails / (Fig. 378), 
to lock the drums and allow the motor to run free. 



184 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

The Winding- Drums are common thread spools (E, Figs. 
378 and 379), the pulleys on their ends (F) are short silk 
spools. Nail the pulley spools 
to the drum spools with brads. 
Cut the axle for mounting 
the drums and pulleys enough 
smaller in diameter than the 
spool holes so the spools will 
turn easily (G, Fig. 379). 
The axles are mounted on 
supports H (Fig. 378), a 
pattern for which is given in 
Tig- 377- The axle holes are 
located on the pattern. 

The Motor Shack is shown 
in detail in Fig. 380. Patterns 
for the floor (/), end walls 
(K), and side wall (L), are 

_,. _ „ J n Fig. 378. — Drum and Pulley Frame 

given in Pig. ^8$. Cut floor Fig. 379. — Spool Drum, Pulley and 

J and ends K out of %-inch shaft 

wood, and use a piece of cigar-box wood for side L. The 
roof is shown in pattern M (Fig. 383). This is also a piece 
of cigar-box wood. The roof piece must be soaked in water, 
to prevent its splitting, before it is bent over the rounded ends 
K. The notch in the front edge of the roof piece is provided 
to admit the derrick mast. The notch in the front wall K 
is provided to admit the beam Q, (Fig. 384), and the hole 
bored to one side of the notch is made for the hoisting-cable 
to run through. 




Fig. 379 



A TOY DERRICK-CRANE 



185 



Install the Motor before attaching the roof to the shack. 
Place the clockwork against wall L, mark the points where 
the pivots touch the wood, and bore holes through the wall 
at these points for the pivots to stick through. One of the 

7 



Fig.380 




Fig. 381 Fig. 382 

Fig. 380. — Detail of Motor Shack 
Figs. 381 and 382. — Details of Turntable Truck 
Fig. 383. — Patterns for Parts of Shack and Truck 

projecting pivots is for the alarm-winding key, another is 
for the time-winding key. Screw these keys onto their 
pivots, and they will hold the clockwork to the wall. Nail 
the winding-drum supports H to floor / and to front wall K. 




^R 



<4V 



Fig. 389 



oj / 



6 



u 



T 

Fig. 386 



K |x^*xl2" 




% 



^3" x 3" x ,2 n 



Fig. 385 



Fig. 384 




Fig. 390 



Figs. 387 and 388 
Fig. 389. — Pulley Supports 



Fig. 384. — Derrick Beam 

Fig. 385. — Derrick Mast 

Fig. 386. — Spool Pulley 

and Axle 

How Pulley is Made 

Fig. 390. — Derrick Boom 



186 



A TOY DERRICK-CRANE 



187 



The motor shack is pivoted upon 
a base (N, Fig. 381), to turn as 

A Turntable, so that the 
derrick-crane may be swung 
around in any direction, and the 
base N is mounted on spools (O, 
Fig. 382), to form a truck that can 
be moved along a track (Figs. 373 
and 374). Pivot the shack with a 
screw slipped through a hole bored 
through the center of board N and 
screwed into the center of floor J. 
Slip the center portion of a spool 
(P) between floor J and board N. 

The Derrick is the next portion 
to construct. First prepare 

The Beam Q by the diagram of 
Fig. 384, with one end notched on 
each side to fit between the lower 
ends of the boom (Fig. 390). Slip 
the beam through the notch in the 
front wall of the shack, and nail it 
to floor /. Then prepare 

The Mast R of the size shown in 
Fig- 385. At the upper end of this 
is fastened 

The Mast Pulley T (Figs. 385 
and 386). The pulley-wheel is 




Fig. 392 



Figs. 391 and 392.— Details of Hoisting- Block 
Fig. 393. — Detail of Hoisting-Cable 



1 88 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

made of the ends of a spool (Fig. 387). The easiest 
way to saw off the ends of a spool is to drive three 
spools onto a stick whittled to fit tightly in their holes 
(Fig. 388), and then hold onto two of the spools while you 
saw off the ends of the third spool. Cut an axle to fit the 
pulley- wheel (U, Fig. 386), and prepare a pair of supports 
with a hole in each to receive the axle ends (S, Fig. 389). 
Nail the supports to the mast end as shown in Fig. 385. 

The Boom (Fig. 390) has two side sticks (V), two sepa- 
rators (W), and a pair of pulleys (T). Make the pulleys 
like the mast-top pulley. Assemble the boom parts as 
shown. The lower ends of sticks V are pivoted to the end 
of beam Q, so the boom can be raised and lowered. Bore 
holes through strips V for screw pivots to run through. 

The Hoisting-Block (Fig. 391) consists of a spool-end 
pulley (T), a frame made of two axle supports (S, Fig. 392), 
a separator (T^), and a screw-hook (X). Assemble the 
parts as shown. 

Heavy cotton wrapping-twine is best for 

The Cables. Attach the cable for raising and lowering 
the boom to a small double-pointed tack driven into the 
upper separator W of the boom ( F, Fig. 390), then run it 
over the pulley on the top of the mast, run it down through 
a hole in the roof of the shack, and tie it to the upper winding- 
drum. 

Tie the hoisting-cable to a double-pointed tack driven 
into the under side of the upper separator W (Z, Fig. 393), 
pass it completely around the pulley of the hoisting-block, 
then run it up and once around the upper pulley of the 



A TOY DERRICK-CRANE 189 

boom, then down to and once around the lower pulley of 
the boom, and then through the hole in the front wall of 
the motor shack, and tie to the lower winding-drum. A 
drop of glue will hold the string cables fast to the winding- 
drums. 

Tracks for the derrick truck to run upon can be made of 
a pair of long sticks, and these can be nailed to the tops of 
boxes, or placed across the tops of chair backs. 




An electro-magnet is one of the most interesting of the 
simpler, easily constructed pieces of electrical apparatus 
which a boy can make. In the author's book The Handy 
Boy, are shown several things to make with electro-magnets. 
In this chapter an electro-magnet is shown incorporated 
in a toy traveling crane (Fig. 394) The crane travels 
back and forth upon a track supported on chair backs, and 
the electro-magnet, raised by a cord cable that winds upon 
a spool drum, will lift as many as two hundred and fifty 
brads at a time. One of the author's readers who built 
an electro-magnet derrick like the one described in The 
Handy Boy, writes that by making a trifle longer electro- 
magnet than that shown in the model, he was enabled to 
lift a weight of 1 pound 2 ounces. The traveling crane is 
easy to make. 

The Crane Carriage (Fig. 395) is a simple frame built 

up of two pairs of wooden strips (A and B), mounted upon 

a pair of ribbon spool wheels (C), with a third spool (D) 

mounted between for the cable winding-drum Bore three 

34-inch holes through strips A (Fig. 396) for the spool 

axles. Cut the axles to fit snugly in the holes of the spool 

wheels and winding-drum (Figs. 397 and 398), and cut 

190 



AN ELECTRO-MAGNET TRAVELING CRANE 191 

their ends to fit loosely in the holes in strips A. Crank 
F (Fig. 399) is to be fastened to axle E. A similar crank 
must be fastened to one end of one of the wheel axles (Fig. 




Fig. 394. — The Electro-Magnet Traveling-Crane 

395). A long brad forms the crank-handle. The handle 
for the winding-drum crank should fit loosely, and several 
small holes should be drilled in stick A in the correct posi : 
tions so the crank handle can be pushed into them to lock 
the winding-drum at any point desired (Fig 395) The 
crank on the wheel axle moves the crane carriage along its 
tracks. 



192 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



To Switch 
To BATTERY- 



Make the Tracks of Sticks heavy enough to support the 
carriage and loads to be hoisted, without bending. Nail 
strips across the ends of the track sticks to hold them at 
the proper distance apart (Fig. 394). 

The Electro- 
Magnet has a core of 
soft iron encased in a 
coil of wire. When 
an electric current 
passes through this 
coil, the core be- 
comes a magnet, but 
it retains its mag- 
netism only as long as 
the current continues 
to pass through 
the wire. In using 
an electro - magnet, 
therefore, the elec- 
tric current must be 
passed through the 
coil continuously 
while a load is being 
lifted, and shut off 
when the load is to 
be dropped. 

Figure 40O shows FlGS - 396 ' 399 - _ Details of Crane Carriage 

the completed electro-magnet. A carriage-bolt about 2^ 
inches long and \i inch in diameter is needed for the magnet 




Fig. 395. — Detail of Crane Carriage and 
Electro-Magnet 




Fig. 399 



Fig. 396 



Fig 397 



AN ELECTRO-MAGNET TRAVELING CRANE 193 

core, insulated electric-bell wire for the coil, cardboard, 
paper, and a dry-battery cell. 

Cut three cardboard washers of the diameter of the bolt- 



ToHoisting-Cable 





Fig. 400 



Fig. 401 Fig. 402 



Fig. 400. — The Electro-Magnet 

Fig. 401 and 402. — Detail Showing Magnet Winding 



head (Fig. 401), slip them over the bolt, and screw on the 
nut (Fig. 402). Then slip one end of the wire between the 
upper two washers, and, starting at that end, wind the wire 
around the bolt, pushing each turn close to the preceding 
turn. When the head of the bolt is reached, wind back to 



i 9 4 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



the starting point; then wind back to the head again, and 
so on until four or six layers have been wound on. Slip 
the second end of the wire between the cardboard washers, 
and screw the nut tight to hold the coil in position. 
Figures 394 and 395 show how one wire end of the coil 



Fig. 405 




Fig. 403 



-TO- MAGNET-" * / 
-TOBATTERY y 

Figs. 403 and 404. — Switch Open and Closed 

Fig. 405. — Details of Binding-Post and Contact Plates 

Figs. 406-407. — Details of Switch 



Fig. 404 



is connected by wire with a dry-battery cell, how the other 
end is connected with a switch on the crane carriage, and how 
a third wire connects the battery with the switch. 

The Switch for opening and closing the electric circuit 
is shown in Figs. 403 and 404. Make the contact plates A 
out of tin or brass (Fig. 405), and punch holes through 



AN ELECTRO-MAGNET TRAVELING CRANE 195 

them for screw-eye binding-posts B, for brass tack contact 
point C, and for the lever screw. Make lever D (Figs. 406 
and 407) of tin or brass, with turned up tips on one end to 
tack to the wooden knob E. 

The Hoisting -Cable cord is to be attached to the top of 
the magnet, then run up and over the winding-drum spool, 
and glued to it. 




CHAPTER XVII 
A TOY MACHINE-GUN 




If you will carefully follow the instructions and working 
details given in this chapter, you will have in your possession 
after a few hours' work, the toy machine-gun shown in 
Fig. 408. This gun will fire twelve wooden cartridges in 
as short a time as it takes to turn the firing-crank twelve 
revolutions. It will wipe out an army of toy soldiers in 
no time at all. If you want to, you can organize a machine- 
gun squad and drill out in the open as the boys in the 
photograph of Fig. 409 are doing. A pamphlet on machine- 
gun drill can be obtained from the Superintendent of 
Documents, Government Printing Office, Washington, D. C. 

Figure 410 shows a detail of the completed machine-gun, 
and the tripod mount. Figures 411 and 412 are longitudinal 
sections through the stock, barrel, and cartridge chamber 
and magazine, showing the hammer and firing mechanism. 
Figure 413 shows a longitudinal section of the gun-stock. 
This is the first part of the gun to prepare. It is made of 
three parts {A, B, and C). Figure 414 shows dimensions 
of the blocks required for parts A and B. After planing 
up these blocks square and true, and of the given dimen- 
sions, draw diagonal lines across both ends of block A, and 
across one end of block B, to locate the centers. Then 

196 




Fig. 410. — Detail of Machine-Gun and Tripod 

197 



198 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

with a %-inch bit bore a hole through the center of block 
A from end to end, and another hole through the center of 
B for a distance of 7 inches. These holes are for the barrel 
(F, Figs. 411 and 417), a piece of brass-tubing y 2 inch in 
diameter. The reason for boring the hole larger than the 




Fig. 411. — Machine-Gun before Hammer has been Drawn Back 



barrel is so that the barrel can be mounted straight even 
though the hole runs a trifle off center. This will allow for 
only a slight correction, so you must bore the holes accurately. 
The brass tubing used for the barrel must not be forced into a 
crooked hole, as it will bend easily, and a bent bore would 
make a poor gun. It is best to bore from both ends of block 
A halfway through the length. When the holes have been 
bored, round off the top of block A from end to end, as 
shown in Fig. 415, and shape off the top of block B at the 






A TOY MACHINE-GUN 



199 



end through which the barrel hole has been bored, so when 
blocks A and B are joined their ends will match. Two 
mortises must be cut in block B, one mortise down through 
the top as far as the barrel bore, the other up through the 
bottom as far as the bore, The mortises are located, and 




Fig. 412. — Machine-Gun with Hammer in Position for Firing 



their sizes are indicated, on Figs. 413 and 415. Mark out 
the mortises carefully. Bore several }4-inch holes inside 
of the mortise lines, boring them as deep as the barrel 
bore, then cut out the wood between the holes with a chisel, 
and square up the mortises. 

When blocks A and B have been prepared, fasten them 
together with plate C (Fig. 413). Cut this of the same 
width as the blocks, and 10 inches long, and lap it as shown. 
Handle E on the breech end is a wire coat-hook. Mark out 
side pieces D of the stock frame by the pattern shown in 



Fig. 413 




Fig. 416 



Fig. 413. — • Longitudinal Section of Machine-Gun Stock 
Figs. 414 and 415. — ■ Details of Stock 
Fig. 416. — Detail of Stock Frame 



200 



A TOY MACHINE-GUN 201 

Fig. 416. The easiest way to prepare these parts so they 
will be alike is to tack together two 24-inch boards, mark 
out the outline upon one board, and then saw out the two 
pieces at one time. Plane up and sandpaper the edges, 
before separating the pieces. Also, bore the holes shown 
in Fig. 416 — four 3^-inch holes near the top edge, and 
four holes of the sizes marked, in the positions located. 
Use for these holes will be shown later. 

The piece of tubing for 

The Barrel must be free from corrosion on the inside, 
it must be straight, and its ends must be reamed out with 
a file if burrs remain on the inside edges from the cutting 
of the pipe. The author used a piece of iron gas-pipe in 
his first model, but found that brass tubing is better as it 
presents a smoother inside surface, it is easier to cut, also. 
You can get brass tubing at almost any machine-shop. If 
they haven't a piece of the right size at hand, they will 
likely get a piece for you, or be able to tell you where you 
can get it. A piece 20 inches long is required. Figures 
417 and 418 show how the chamber end of the barrel must 
be slotted for a length of 2 inches, and how the upper half 
of the tubing must be cut away for a distance of 4 inches. 
You can cut the slot with a flat file y% inch thick, using it 
edgewise, and making the slot equal in width to the thick- 
ness of the file. The upper part of the tubing can be cut 
away by using the file flatwise. The pair of small holes 
shown pierced through the tubing near its end are provided 
for anchoring the barrel in the gun-stock by driving a 
finishing-nail through the gun-stock and through the holes. 



202 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

The Front Sight (Z, Fig. 410) is a strip of tin of the size 
shown in Fig. 419, bent to fit over the muzzle of the barrel, 
with the tip of one end of the strip hammered over on to 
the other end (Fig. 420). 

The wire for 

The Hammer Rod (G, Figs. 411 and 412) must be of 
No. 6 gauge. Figures 421 and 422 show the correct shape 
and size. To make the turns at the point for pivoting, 
bend the wire around a bolt or dowel-stick. Spools H 

Fig. Fig. 
Fig. 417 420 419 



fc 



t4-2- 



20" ■ — 1 

— — — _ - ^ 



).?£! 



Holes 



Fig. 418 

Figs. 417 and 418. — ■ Details of Tubing for Machine-Gun Barrel 
Figs. 419 and 420. — Details of Front Sight 



i 



(Fig. 421) are used to keep the rod centered half way between 
sides D of the gun-stock frame. Cut off as much of the 
end of each spool as is necessary to make the pair of the 
right length to fill the space each side of the rod. A ^-inch 
bolt 3 inches in length is required for the hammer-rod 
pivot (/, Fig. 421). 

The Hammer Spring is a screen-door spring (/, Figs. 
411 and 421). Pull out several turns of one end as shown 
in Fig. 421, and slip them over the upper end of the hammer- 
rod. Pin the other end of the spring between pieces D 



A TOY MACHINE-GUN 



203 



with the nail K (Figs. 410 and 41 1), slipping the nail through 
the holes in the fore end of pieces D. It may be necessary 
to break off an inch or so of one end of the spring, to make 
it short enough so it will be held in tension when its ends 
are fastened. 

The Firing Crank (L, Figs. 410 and 411) is made of wire 
of the same thickness as that used for the hammer-rod. 

Fig. 422 




Fig. 423 



Fig. 421 



Figs. 421 and 422. — Details of Hammer-Rod and Pivot 
Fig. 423. — Detail of Firing-Crank 



Figure 423 shows dimensions for bending the piece. The 
loop bent in this piece of wire acts as a tripper on the hammer- 
rod end, as you will see by looking at Figs. 410 and 411. 
The hammer-rod, spring, and firing-crank must be mounted 
in the gun-stock frame between side pieces D before the 



Fig. 426 



Fig. 427 




F 



'-l(M 



L 



M 



JL 



±i 






8 



H 





Fig 428. 



T- — ' \r „,"?>eolco 

In i """"7 J — *^ _ ^ _ 

N- 

Fig. 424 



Fig. 425 



Fig. 424. — Detail of Cartridge 

Fig. 425. — ■ Magazine Filled with Cartridges 

Figs. 426 and 427. — ■ Details of Magazine 

Fig. 428. — Weight for Holding Cartridges in Position 



204 



A TOY MACHINE-GUN 205 

latter are fastened to the stock. Figure 411 shows the right 
position for the hammer tip when the hammer-rod has 
been released, and Fig. 412 shows the point to which the 
hammer must be drawn by the firing-crank rod tripper 
before being released. If you have bent the hammer-rod 
and firing-crank rod as shown in the drawings, the hammer 
tip should come at the two points shown. If it does not, 
bending the wires at slightly different angles will bring about 
the proper adjustment. 

Before proceeding further with the construction, it will 
be well to test out the machine-gun with 

Cartridges. These are pieces of dowel-sticks Yz inch 
in diameter, cut to the length shown in Fig. 424, with one 
end whittled cartridge-shape. Sandpaper the cartridges 
smooth, then wax and polish them. To make the bore 
of the barrel as smooth as possible, pour oil into it, and 
then, with a piece of soft rag on the end of a slender stick, 
spread the oil and remove the surplus. Give plenty of 
time to testing the firing efficiency of the gun, and adjust 
and readjust the hammer-rod and firing-crank rod until 
you are satisfied with the results obtained. 

The Magazine (Fig. 425) is fastened to the gun-stock 
directly over the upper mortise, so that the cartridges 
dropped into it will slip into the chamber beneath. Figure 
426 shows how to cut the piece of tin required for the 
magazine, from the side of a tin can. Leave the turned- 
over edge on the can side, as shown, to reinforce the upper 
edge of the magazine. Figure 427 gives the dimensions 
for cutting and folding the piece of tin. Bend the lower 



206 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



edge to form flanges through which to drive tacks for 
fastening the magazine to the top of the gun-stock. 

The weight shown in Fig. 428 is necessary to hold down 
the cartridges so the bottom cartridge will always be in 



Fig. 435 




H!"K 



5=S 



IE 

Fig. 437 




\lf 



S 

V 



KM 



\ 




Fig. 429 



Fig. 432 Fig. 433 



Fig. 431 



Fig. 429. — Machine-Gun Tripod 

Figs. 430-434. — Details of Tripod 

Figs. 435-437. — Details of Yoke for Mounting Gun on Tripod 



the right position in the chamber for the hammer to strike. 
A piece of solder, or a piece of almost any kind of metal, 
will do. If you use solder, a screw-eye can be set into one 



A TOY MACHINE-GUN 207 

side, to which to attach a piece of string as a means for 
lifting out the weight after the last of the cartridges has 
been fired, preparatory to refilling (Fig. 425). The slot 
in the side of the magazine is made wide enough so the 
finger can be slipped along it to guide the cartridges dropped 
into the magazine. 

Figure 410 shows 

The Tripod mount for the machine-gun, and Figs. 429 
to 434 show details of its construction. Prepare the head 
block P of the dimensions given in Fig. 430, and cut three 
notches in the edge, of the sizes shown, and spaced equi- 
distantly, for the legs. Bore the center hole to receive the 
yoke spindle V (Fig. 436). Cut the front pair of legs R 
and the rear leg S of the sizes shown in Fig. 431. Bore a 
^-inch hole through each leg i34 inches from the upper 
end, and cut off the corners of the lower end as shown. To 
mount the legs, screw a screw-eye into the tripod head each 
side of each notch (T, Fig. 432), then cut the dowel-pin 
pivots U (Fig. 433), and drive them through screw-eyes 
T and through the holes in the legs (Fig. 429). Cut socket 
block Q of the size shown in Fig. 434, bore a hole through 
its center to receive the yoke V, and fasten it to the exact 
center of tripod head P. 

Prepare yoke V and lever W (Fig. 435) of the dimensions 
shown in Figs. 436 and 437. Cut the spindle on the lower 
end of yoke V to fit the hole in socket block Q, and bore a 
hole through the upper end of the yoke through which to 
drive the axis bolt for pivoting the gun, to provide for 



2 o8 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



Fig. 441 




Fig. 439 




Fig. 438. — Wash-Basin Helmet 
Figs. 439-441.— How to Attach Rings and Straps 
to Wash- Basin 



changing elevations. 
Use the thumb-bolt X 
and wing-bolt F(Fig. 
410) for making this 
connection. 

Paint all parts of 
the gun black or 
grey. To make them 
less conspicuous in 
the field, it is com- 
mon practice to 
paint guns by what 
is known as the 
"rainbow smudge" 
system. But you will 
not want to dabble 
in the art of cam- 
ouflage when finish- 
ing yourtoy machine 
gun. 

To be an up-to- 
date machine gun- 
ner, you must wear 

A Helmet like that 
the boys in Fig. 409 
are wearing. A 
detail of this helmet 
is shown in Fig. 438. 
It consists of a 



A TOY MACHINE-GUN 209 

tin wash-basin 11 inches in diameter (Fig. 439) with a 
pair of rings bent out of wire (Fig. 440) soldered to the 
inside, through which to run the chin-strap (Fig. 441). 
Stitch the strap to the rings, to keep the basin from slipping 
sidewise. 





CHAPTER XVIII 
DRILL-GUNS 




Every boy wants to belong to a drill-club, and if instruc- 
tion from a man with military training can be obtained, 
there is no reason why a boys' club or class should not 
organize a drill club. The handbook Infantry Drill 
Regulations, which can be purchased for 50 cents, should 
be obtained as a reference book, and should be followed 
closely. Its instructions will be understood more easily 
after drill movements have been demonstrated by the drill 
master. 

When the author was a lad, the neighborhood boys 
organized a drill-club, and commissioned him to make 
guns. These must have fallen far short of standard speci- 
fications, because there were no dimensioned drawings in 
the woodshed "arms plant" to work by; but, as the author 
recollects, the guns were fearsome looking weapons, with 
long tinfoil-covered stick bayonets, which, by the way, 
were "fixed" at all times — which is strictly against regula- 
tions, but unknown to the boys at that time. You can 
make better guns than these were, for this chapter presents 
all of the working details necessary. 

The Simple Model of Drill-Gun shown in Fig. 444 has 
a stock cut in one piece. A pattern for this, ruled off into 




Fig. -±i3.— -Squad at "Port Arms" (Equipped with Home-Made Drill- 
Guns and Wasii-Basin Helmets) . 



DRILL GUNS 




Fig. 444 — A Simple Model of Drill-Gun 



squares measuring y% inch each way, each square repre- 
senting i inch, is shown in Fig. 445. To lay out a full-size 
pattern, draw a similar set of squares, 1 inch square, upon 
a piece of paper, and reproduce the outline exactly as it is 
shown upon the small squares. Saw out the piece, round 
the edges, and sandpaper the wood. This will provide 

A Pattern for Marking Out Dupli- 
cate Stocks. You will save time by 
marking out at one time as many of 
the stocks as you will require. 

The Barrel is made of a broom-handle 
(Fig. 447). Cut a shallow groove 
along the top edge of the stock for the 
barrel to fit in, and fasten the barrel 
with screws and wire bands. 

For a Trigger, drive a bent nail (C, 
Fig. 448) into the stock at the point 
indicated in Fig. 446, and for 

A Trigger-Guard fasten a plumber's 
pipe-strap (D, Fig. 448) to the stock, 
covering the trigger. 

For the Front Sight, bend a piece of 
tin into the shape of E (Fig. 449), for FlG> 445- L P l ttern of 

The Rear Sight (F, Fig. 450) cut a Stock of Drill-Gun 

Shown in Fig. 444 




2i2 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



piece of tin of the shape shown in Fig. 451, bend it in half, 
turn up the ends, and bend down the tips of these. Tack 
the sights to the barrel in the positions shown in Fig. 444. 






Zj 



Fig. 447 





Fig. 446 



Fig. 446. 
Fig. 447. 



Fig. 448 



Fig. 451 



Fig. 450 Fig. 449 



- Stock Fig. 449. — Front Sight 

- Barrel Fig. 450 and 451. — Rear Sight 
Fig. 448. — • Trigger and Trigger-Guard 



The gun will now be ready for 

Finishing. Give the stock a coat of stain or paint of a 
walnut color. Stain is preferable to paint. When the 
stain has dried, apply a coat of shellac, then a coat of flat 
varnish. Paint the barrel black; also the trigger, trigger- 
guard, and sights. 




Fig. 452. — Springfield Model of Drill-Gun 

The drill-gun shown in Fig. 452 is 

A Springfield Rifle Model. Its stock requires consider- 
able more work to cut than the stock of the simpler model, 
but most boys prefer it for drilling because its lines more 
nearly approach the lines of the modern army rifle. 

Enlarge the pattern for 



DRILL-GUNS 



213 



The Stock and Barrel, shown in Fig. 
453, in the manner directed for the 
other model's stock. Be careful in 
enlarging this pattern to locate the 
various points correctly. Before cutting 
out the piece, it will be well to check 
up your measurements to be certain 
that you have made no errors. The 
barrel end may be either a piece of 34- 
inch dowel-stick, or 3^-inch gas-pipe, 
6 inches long (B, Fig. 454). Bore a 
hole 2 inches in depth in the barrel and 
drive the piece B into it. Fasten with 
nails if a dowel-stick is used, or with a 
screw driven through a drilled hole, if 
iron pipe is used. 

The Trigger and Trigger-Guard (C 
and D) are the same as those of the 
other model of gun (Fig. 448). 

The Front Sight (E) is shown in 
detail in Fig. 454. Figure 455 shows 
the shape and size to cut the strip re- 
quired. A piece of a tin can will do. 
Trim off the ends of the strip as shown, 
bend the piece to fit around the barrel, 
and hammer the ends together. 

The Rear Sight is made to fold flat 
against the top of the barrel (F, Figs. 
452 and 456). When laid down, the 



— ■ r— — 


















-i 4 


1 


I 


r 












. 


v 






1 : 


^A- 


-F5 


t 


L_ L_ 


5 t 


£ X 


V4 


-CJ 


r 


T 


_\ 


r~ 


Y 


j 


^_ 


- - I.. 



o 

CO 



Fig. 453. — Pattern of 
Stock and Barrel of 
Drill Gun shown in 
Fig. 452 



2i 4 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



position is known as battle sight', when raised, the semi- 
circular notch in the upper edge is known as the open sight, 
the hole beneath it is known as the peep sight. Cut a piece 

of tin of the s ze 



V 



a n 



l] Fi 



G. 454 






1 



rof^j 



f-CG 



— 6" if 



X^ 



th 



Fig. 454. — Detail of Front Sight Fig. 455 
Fig. 455. — Pattern of Front Sight 



J 

i. 



■H 




Fig. 457 
Figs. 456-458.- 



Fig. 458 Fig. 45G 

Details of Rear Sight Drop-Leaf 




Fig. 460 

Figs. 459 and 460. 



shown in Fig. 457, 
for leaf F, and turn 
the lower end over 
a piece of wire (G, 
Fig. 458). Bend the 
ends of the piece of 
wire into loops, and 
tack these loops to 
the sides of the 
gun-stock (Fig. 
456). The leaf will 
turn up and down 
with the wire as an 
axis. Tack H (Fig 
456, driven close to 
the hinge of the 
leaf, will act as a 
stop when the leaf 



Fig. 459 
Details of Sling 

is raised, and can be used as the rear sight when the leaf 
is laid flat. 

Finish the Drill-Gun in the manner suggested for the 
other model. Then it will be ready for 

The Sling (/, Fig. 452), without which it would not be 
complete. An excellent sling that will resemble more or 
less closely a modern rifle sling, can be made of an old pair 



DRILL-GUNS 



215 




U.UjJu. 



of suspenders. Figure 459 shows a sling so made. Separate 
the suspenders where crossed (Fig. 460), cut off the button- 
hole tips on the rear ends, and sew the two lengths together. 
The snaps on the front ends 
will then snap over the 
eyes i", screwed into the 
stock (Fig. 452), and the 
slide-buckles can be used to 
shorten the straps. For the 
eyes use bent-over screw- 
eyes (I, Fig. 452). Stain 
the sling with walnut stain, 
to make it look as nearly 
like leather as possible. 

The Weight of a Spring- 
field is 8.69 pounds. Your 
drill-gun, even if made of 
heavy wood, will be ex- 
tremely light by comparison. 

To Increase the Weight 
of Drill-Guns, the author 
has found it a good scheme 
to bore several holes in the 
stock and barrel, and pour 
these full of melted lead. 
In doing this, be careful to 
keep the center-of-balance at about the position of the 
rear-sight leaf. 

A Bayonet is easily made out of wood (Fig. 461). Cut 



Fig. 461.— 
Bayonet 




Fig. 462. 
Scabbard 



216 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

the blade of the shape and size of A (Fig. 463), and build 
up the grip end with the blocks B. Bend a piece of heavy 
wire into a double loop, like C (Fig. 465) for the guard, and 
cut a groove across the inner face of blocks B for the wire 




U — -4" — *i 



Fg. 463. — Detail of Bayonet 




Fig. 465 



Fig. 464 



Figs. 464-466. — How Grip of Bayonet 
Attaches to Gun 



Fig. 467. — Gun with Fixed 
Bayonet 



to fit into (Figs. 463 and 464) . Cut a slot 2 inches long in 
the end of the blade (Fig. 464). Nail the grip blocks to 
the end of the blade, and then shape the assembled grip as 
shown in Fig. 467. If the loops of the guard have been bent 
properly, they will slip over the muzzle of the barrel. To 
hold the end of the grip, fasten the metal strip D (Fig. 466) 
to the stock, to fit in the slot cut in the end of the blade 
(Fig. 464). 

Finish the bayonet by first sandpapering the wood very 
carefully, making the edge sharp and straight. Then paint 



DRILL-GUNS 



217 



the blade with aluminum paint, and finish the grip with 
walnut stain. 

A Scabbard for the bayonet is shown in Fig. 462. Make 
this out of two pieces of cardboard, glued together along 
the edges, with a covering of khaki-colored cloth. Make 
the top loop large enough for your belt to run through. 




PART III 

Backward and 
Camp Craft 




Two-Arm Semaphore Signaling by a Patrol of the Author's Troop of 
Boy Scouts of America, Elmhurst, Ills. 




Every boy ought to know how to converse by means of 
one of the several signal systems in common use. About 
the simplest system to learn, and one which makes rapid 
sending possible, is the two-arm semaphore system; there- 
fore, the way to make a pair of hand signal flags, and the 
signal-code, is shown in this chapter. 

It is not necessary to own a pair of flags to learn the 
code, since the positions of the arms of the boy signalling 
determine the code letters. The flags serve to amplify the 
hand positions, and of course this is necessary when sending 
from a distance. It is easiest to learn the code without 
the flags, because then you need concern yourself only with 
the positions of your arms in forming the letters. As soon 
as you have memorized the positions, and can send at a 
rate of at least thirty letters a minute, you will be so proud 
of your achievement that you will want to own a pair of 
flags at once. 

A Hand Flag of Standard Size is shown in Fig. 468, its 
dimensions are given in Fig. 469, and the size of its staff 
is shown in Fig. 470. The flag is divided diagonally into 
two parts, one of which is made of red muslin, the other 
of white. Cut the cloth enough larger than shown to 



222 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



allow for turning over % 
inch of each edge for a 
hem. If you have mother 
or sister do this stitching 
on the sewing-machine, it 
will be the best way of 
getting a good job done 
quickly. Cut the staff 
stick of the size shown, 
round the edges, and sand- 
paper all surfaces smooth. 
Then shellac it, and when 
the shellac has dried tack 
the flag to one side. 

Memorizing the Code 
is not difficult, but it 
requires continuous prac- 
tice to get to the point 
where one can send rapid- 
ly. The following sug- 
gestions will help you "get 
the hang" of it, and 
probably you will be able 
to work out schemes of 
your own that will help 
you remember the for- 
mation of certain letters. 

Observe, first of all, 




Fig. 468. — Hand Flag 




Fig. 469. — Pattern for Hand Flag 



Fig. 470. — Staff for Hand Flag 



SIGNALLING 223 

that the positions of the arms in forming the letters of the 
alphabet are eight in number, and correspond to the posi- 
tions of the hour-hand of a clock when at 6 o'clock, 7 30, 
g o'clock, 10:30, 12 o'clock, 1:30, 3 o'clock, and 4:30. Observe, 
also, that the arms advance clockwise, in going through the 
alphabet. 

In forming letters A to D, the left hand is placed in the 
position of a clock's hour-hand when at 6 o'clock, the right- 
hand is placed successively at 7:30, 9 o'clock, 10:30, and 
12 o'clock. In forming letters E to G, the right hand is 
substituted for the left hand, and the left hand is advanced 
from 1:30 to 4:30. For letters H and /, the left hand is 
held at 7:30, the right hand is placed at 9 o'clock, then at 
10:30. Letters K to N are formed with the right-hand 
held at 7:30, the left hand is placed successively at 12 o'clock, 
1 :3o, 3 o'clock, and 4:30. For letters P to S, the right hand 
is held at 9 o'clock, the left hand is placed successively at 
12 o'clock, 1:30, 3 o'clock, and 4:30. 

For letters T, U, and Y, the right-hand is held at 10:30, 
the left hand is placed at 12 o'clock, 1:30, and 3 o'clock. 
For letters / and V, the right hand is held at 12 o'clock, 
the left hand is placed at 3 o'clock and 4:30. For letters 
W and X, the left hand is held at 1 :3o, the right hand at 
3 o'clock and 4:30. For letter Z, the left hand is held at 
3 o'clock, the right hand at 4:30. 

Remember that the letter U is like a letter U., that letter 
N is U inverted (same as small letter n is letter u inverted) ; 
letter Y is like a letter Y except that the left-hand is dropped 
one position; letter X is really the left-hand side of a 



224 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



letter X. Opposite letters are A and G, B and F, C and 
E, H and Z, / and X, / and P, K and V, O and W (think 
of and "double-yo"), M and S, and Q and Y. Perhaps 
you will find it helpful to associate these letters in this way. 








INTCRROGAfOKY 







w 



ACKNOWLCD&C 







Fi(j. 471. — Signal Code 

To Attract Attention, before starting to signal, shake the flags above 
your head in the positions indicated for attention. Before sending numerals, 
cross the flags over head as shown for numerals. Use letters A to J for numbers. 
Spell out numerals when they come in the body of a message. If you make 
an error, signal A. To annul a message, make N. To acknowledge that the 
message has been understood, make R. To signify readiness, send L. Indi- 
cate a negative reply by K, an affirmative reply by P, a question by O. 

Finish a Message with a chop-chop motion of the flags at "the right, as 
indicated for "end." Abbreviations will not be confused with letters, by the 
receiver, if the sender follows them with the interval. 





CHAPTER XX 
SIMPLE MODEL AIRPLANES 




Before you can build successful model airplanes, you 
must know the principles which govern their stability, and 
the best way to learn these is with gliders like those shown 
in this chapter. When you have experimented with these, 
you will be so interested in the work that you will want to 
make motor-propelled models, and for models of this type 
the author refers you to his handicraft book, The Handy 
Boy, in which are presented instructions for building record- 
breaking models, for making propellers and rubber-band 
motors, for a motor- winder and flight-distance measuring 
apparatus. 

For gaining an understanding of 

The Matter of Balance , take a business-size envelope. 
Drop this flat, straight down, and it will land upon 
the ground without upsetting; but give it a forward move- 
ment and it will upset. Its upsetting in the one case but not 
in the other is due to the action of two forces, the force of 
gravity which pulls it groundward, and the air pressure 
beneath which buoys it up. In order to have it balance, 
the centers of these two forces must coincide. 

The Center of Gravity and Center of Air Pressure. The 
center of gravity is always the center of weight, the balancing 

225 




Fig. 472 





/' 



If 

// /■■ 

Us 

1 1 


y 

\ 

t 
l 
l 


t 1 1 
II V 


i 

A 



VJ 



/I I 

■if 



» / Fig. 473 






'***.. 




Fig. 474 



Fig. 476 
Figs. 472-476^ — Diagrams in Explanation of the Matter of Balance 

226 



SIMPLE MODEL AIRPLANES 



227 



point. The center of air pressure varies. When the 
envelope is dropped straight down, flat (Fig. 472), this 
center of pressure (P) comes at the same point as the center 
of gravity (G),and 
there is perfect 
balance. When the 
envelope moves 
forward while 
dropping, how- 
ever, the center of 
air pressure shifts 
forward, the front 
edge is forced up, 
and the envelope 
upsets (Fig 473). 

To Make An 
Envelope Glide 
without upsetting 
it is necessary to 
shift the center of 

gravity to a point Figs. 477 and 478. — An Envelope Glider 

which will coincide with the center of pressure. This can 
be done by adding weight to the forward edge. Try a 
paper-clip, slipping it over the envelope as shown in Fig. 
474. If, with the clip in place, the envelope darts head-on 
to the ground, the clip is too heavy, and has caused the 
center of gravity to shift beyond the center of pressure (G 
and P,Fig. 474). Slide the clip back and forth until the 
weight is so adjusted that the envelope will first dip nose- 




228 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

down for a distance, then straighten up and glide horizon- 
tally, as shown in Fig. 475. 

If an air current strikes the envelope sidewise, it will 
cause the center of pressure to shift and the envelope to 
upset. Bend the envelope along its center so that the 




Fig. 479. — A Cardboard Glider 

ends will tilt up (Fig. 476), and the danger of upsetting will 
be lessened. The tilted surface allows the air to slip off 
of the ends more readily than a flat surface does. Con- 
sequently, when a side current strikes end A (Fig. 476), 
lifts it up, and turns end B down, as indicated by dotted 
lines, the envelope glider quickly rights itself because the 
air slips out from under tilted end A and the air pressure 
forces up flat end B. 

Figure 477 shows 

An Envelope Glider made by opening all pasted flaps 
of an envelope (Fig. 478), and slipping a paper clip over 
the folded over gummed flap. 



SIMPLE MODEL AIRPLANES 



229 



Fig. 480 



Figure 479 shows 

A Cardboard Glider. The framework, or fuselage (A), 
connecting the planes, is a cardboard strip of the dimensions 
shown in Fig. 480, folded where indicated by dotted lines, 
into the shape 
shown in Fig. 481. 
Main plane B and 
elevator plane C are 
pieces of cardboard 
of the size shown 
in Figs. 482 and 
483. Cut a notch 
at the center of 
each of the long 
edges of each plane 
as shown. The 
planes must be 
centered on the 
fuselage. Cut slots 
in the fuselage 
strip, as indicated, 
to slip the planes 
through, and when 
you find by testing FlGS - 48 °- 483 - 
out the glider that the ends of the planes balance, fix the 
planes in position with pins run through from the under 
side of the fuselage (Fig. 481). In launching the model, 
turn it so that elevator plane C is in front. 

The advantage in making the glider type of model air- 




Fig. 482 
-Detail of Parts of Cardboard Glider 






23 o CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



plane is that it requires neither motor nor propellers, which 
are the most difficult parts of model airplanes to make. 
The glider will not go a great distance, but if you will shoot 
it into the air by means of a rubber-band sling shot you 
can send it several 
hundred feet. Fig- 
ure 484 shows 

A Sling-Shot 
Glider. Cut stick 
A (Fig. 485) of the 
proportions shown, 
and with a saw slit 
one end for a dis- 
tance of 2 3^2 inches 
to receive keel B 
(Figs. 486 and 488). 
Cut keel B out of 
heavy cardboard, 
of the dimensions 
given in Fig. 489, 
then fasten it in the 
slots with brads. 
The hook upon the 
bow (C, Fig. 486) 

is provided for the loop of the sling-shot to slip over. Make 
it out of a heavy hairpin. Bend the pin into a straight 
piece, then bend one end into a hook (Fig. 487). Make a 
small hole through stick A 1 inch from the bow end, slip 
the straight end of the wire up through the hole, and bend 




Fig. 484 — A Sling-Shot Glider 



SIMPLE MODEL AIRPLANES 



231 



it down against the top of the stick as indicated by dotted 
lines in Fig. 487. Bind the hook to stick A by wrapping 
with thread (Fig. 486). 

Elevator plane D and main plane E (Fig. 485) are made 
of heavy cardboard. Figures 490 and 491 show diagrams 
for marking them 
out. In mounting 
place them so stick 
A crosses their 
centers, and bind 
each to the stick 
with a strong rub- 
ber-band, passed 
beneath the stick 
and looped over 
the plane ends (F, 
Figs. 48 5 and 486). 
Rest the forward 
edge of plane D 
upon hook C (Fig. 
486) to give it the 
proper tilt. 

The Sling-Shot. 
It is not necessary 
to tell how to make 
this of looped together rubber-bands joined to a tree-crotch, 
because every boy knows how. 

To Launch the Sling-Shot Glider, hold the tail end of the 
glider with the right hand and the sling-shot with the left 




Fig. 486. 
Fig. 487. 



Fig. 487 

Side Elevation of Sling-Shot Glider 
- Detail of End Hook 



Fig. 489 



Fig. 488 



Fig. 490 





E 



10"- 




Fig. 491 
Figs. 488-491. — Details of Glider Planes and Keel 




Fig. 492. — An Aerial Top 

232 



SIMPLE MODEL AIRPLANES 



2 33 



hand, as shown in Fig. 484, and release the glider in the 
same way that you shoot an arrow from a bow. Slide the 
planes backward and forward until you find the positions 
which give the model perfect balance while in flight. 





Fig. 495 



B 



> m 



IC ^w 



T 
H 






l \ 



Fig. 494 



Fig. 493. — Detail of Completed 
Aerial Top 



Fig. 494. — Detail showing Hub Stick 

and Shaft Connections 
Fig. 495. — Detail of Propeller Blades 



The Aerial Top shown in Fig. 492 is one of the most fas- 
cinating of the simpler aerial toys. By means of its spinning 
cord, it can be made to rise a distance of one hundred feet 
or more before returning to the ground. 



234 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

The top requires a stick shaft {A, Fig. 493), a hub-stick 
(B), for which a carpenter's dowel-stick or a flagstaff may 
be used, two cardboard propeller-blades (C), and a large 
spool {D) . With a saw, slot the ends of hub B a distance of 
% inch, to receive the propeller-blade (Fig. 494). Cut the 
slots at an angle that will give the blades the pitch shown 
in Fig. 493, and be careful to get the angle of the slots alike. 
Bore a small hole through the hub-stick, and taper the 
shaft to fit snugly in thia hole (Fig. 494). Whittle the 
opposite end of the shaft to fit loosely in the spool hole. 
Plug up the lower end of the spool hole. 

Figure 495 shows the dimensions for the propeller-blades. 
Fasten the blades in the hub ends with brads. 

To Spin the Top, wind the cord about its shaft, spinning- 
top fashion, then hold the spool and string as shown in 
Fig. 492, and pull the string. When the string has unwound, 
the top will rise in the air. 





CHAPTER XXI 



TENTS FOR HIKES AND THE 
BACK YARD 




Old awnings, draperies, sheets, quilts, potato sacks, 
in fact, almost any kind of material large or small, torn 



nnnn 




Fig. 496. — "A" Shelter Tent 

or worn, can be cut, pieced, or mended, for a back-yard 
tent; and almost any kind of easily packed material can 
be made into a good enough shelter for sleeping out when 
on a hike. Four ways of utilizing such material as the above 
are shown in the illustrations in this chapter. Other plans 

235 



236 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS PT>R BOYS 




Fig. 496. — Tripod Tent 

for tent making — for making an "A" and a wall tent 
of standard proportions — are presented in the author's 
book Handicraft for Handy Boys. 

The "A" Shelter Tent shown in Fig. 496 is about as 
simple a tent as you can make. The ridge-pole, for which 
a rake-handle or pole of about that size, may be used, is 
supported at one end by blocks of wood nailed to a fence 
or tree in the form of a bracket. The other end is suspended 
from the fence top or tree trunk by ropes. The tent mate- 
rial, after being thrown over the 
ridge-pole, can be tied at the 
sides to stakes driven into the 
ground, or the side edges can 
be tacked to wooden strips 
fastened to stakes, as shown in 
Fig. 496. The latter arrange- 
ment makes a neater appearing 
tent. 

Fig. 497. — Diagram of Cloth _ ,-..,«, l. 

for Tripod Tent For the Tripod Tent shown in 





Fig. 498. — Lean-To Tent 



14-0- 




i*- - 4 , -9"_4: — 4'-6" — *- -A'-B' 1 —* 

Fig. 499. — Diagram of Cloth for Lean-To Tent 

237 



2 3 8 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



Fig. 496, you will need a piece of covering material 7 feet 
square, and three poles. The cloth must be folded in half 
from corner to corner, as indicated by dotted lines in Fig. 
497, and the poles must be set up tripod fashion so that 
the cloth will enclose two sides as shown. Tapes should 
be sewed to the cloth, or pinned on with safety-pins, for 
fastening the cloth to the pole supports. 







-~«C~ ~' / '~V..._.'.'/-..iv l . 






Fig. 500. — Cage Tent 



The Lean-to Tent shown in Fig. 498 is best made of a 
piece of cloth of the dimensions shown in Fig. 499. The 
dotted lines show how the cloth must be folded. Portion 
A forms the top of the tent, portions B the sides, and 
corners C turn under and lie flat on the ground. 

The illustration shows the tent supported between trees, 
with a single pole supporting the front edge of the top. 
If no trees are at hand, support the ends of the pole on 
uprights. Tie or sew tapes to the corners of the tent, and 
drive stakes into the ground at the points for tying. 

The Cage Tent in Fig. 500 makes a good close-to-the 



TENTS FOR HIKES AND THE BACK YARD 239 




Figs. 501 and 502. — Details of Framework for Cage Tent 



ground shelter tent. Prepare four hoops to support the 
covering material out of No. 8 or No. 9 wire, cutting this 
into 5-foot lengths, and bending these pieces into arches 
2 feet in diameter (Fig. 501). The tent framework should 
measure about 5 feet from end to end. Place the arches 
20 inches apart, and push the ends several inches into the 
ground. 

The three poles across the top of the arches keep the 



240 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

covering material from sagging between the arches. Cut 
them long enough to project several inches beyond the end 
arches. Connect them with cords of the right length to 
let them hang at the distance apart shown (Fig. 502). 

Figure 500 shows how to bring the covering material 
to a point at each end, and tie it to a stake, to enclose the 
tent. 





CHAPTER XXIII 



BACK YARD AND CAMP FIRE- 
PLACES 




The place to learn how to make a camp fireplace and 
how to cook, is at home, and as good a spot as any to build 
the fireplace is the back yard. A small campfire can be 
built in the yard with safety if a pit is made to hold the fire. 
On the following pages will be found suggestions for building 
fireplaces, an oven, and a camp-stove. 

The Fireplace with Trenched Fire-Pit, shown in Fig. 
503, will keep the fire within a confined area. Remove the 
sod from a piece of ground several feet in length, 3 inches 
wide at one end, and 12 inches wide at the other end, 
running this trench in the direction of the prevailing wind. 
Each side of the trench, pile the sod removed and spread 
several inches of earth on top, to make banks as shown in 
Fig. 503. Properly banked, you can stand a coffee-pot over 
the narrow end of the trench, larger utensils over the center, 
and still larger utensils over the wide end. Pots may be 
hung over the fire by fastening a wire above it in the manner 
shown, then bending pothooks similar to that shown in 
Fig. 504, out of wire, by which to suspend the pots. 

The customary way of hanging pots over a cooking fire, 
at camps, is by means of forked sticks suspended from a 
horizontal pole that is supported in the crotch of a crotched 



241 



242 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 




Fig. 504 Fig. 503 

Fig. 503. — Fireplace with Trenched Fire-Pit 
Fig. 504. — Wire Pothook 




•Iff / . 

Fig. 505. — Fireplace with Circular Fire-Pit 



pole erected at 
each end of the 
fire-pit. 

The Fireplace 
with Circular Fire- 
Pit, shown in Fig. 
505, differs from 
the fireplace just 
described only in 
the shape of the 
fire-pit. A piece 
of sheet-iron can 
be placed across 
the fire-pit to 
stand utensils on. 

The Fireplace 
with Above- 
Ground Fire -Pit. 
shown in Fig. 506 
must have its 
walls built of 
moist earth or 
clay, so that the 
material can be 
packed together 
nicely. Tin cans 
are placed in the 
walls, three on a 
side, as shown in 



BACK YARD AND CAMP FIREPLACES 



243 




Fig. 507, to sup- 
port the cross 
wires that extend 
from side to side 
for u t e n s i 1 s to 
stand upon. Tin 
cans exposed to 
a fire will soon 

Crumble to pieces, Fig. 506. — Fireplace with Above Ground Fire-Pit 

therefore several 
inches of earth 
should be piled 
up against the 
cans inside of the 
fire-pit to pro- 
tect them. Figure 

508 suggests how 
you can use 
stakes instead of 
tin cans for sup- 
porting the cross 
wires. 

The Camp Oven 
shown in Figure 

509 is started 
in the same way 
as the fireplace 
in Fig. 506, ex- 
cept that a pit Fig. 508. — Another Scheme for Utensil Support 




Fig. 507. — Fireplace Utensil Support 




244 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

5 or 6 inches deep is hollowed out in addition to building 
the above-ground fire-walls. Figure 511 shows how the 
oven shelf is supported on tin cans; also, how a piece of 




Fig. 510. — Sheet-Iron Front Fig. 509. — Camp Oven 



stovepipe is stood erect at the rear end of the fire-pit, for 
the chimney. 

Pile up earth around the base of the stove-pipe, and 
build up the sides of the oven with earth moistened enough 
to make it pack together firmly. At a height of 12 or 14 
inches above the oven shelf, level off the sides, and across 
them set a piece of sheet-iron to support the top of the oven. 
Then cover this top to a depth or 3 or 4 inches with earth. 
Bank up earth around the base of the oven to make the 



BACK YARD AND CAMP FIREPLACES 



245 




Fig. 511. — Oven Fire-Pit, Smoke-Pipe and Shelf 

f3Bfc 



walls solid, and protect the tin cans that support the shelf- 
wires, with a covering of earth, so that the fire will not 
burn them through. 

The oven front 
(Fig. 510) is a 
piece of sheet- 
iron with wire 
loops fastened to 
the upper edge to 
provide for hang- 
ing it from the 
oven top. Rest 
a stick across the 
side walls of the 
oven, and hang 
the sheet-iron 
front from nails 
driven into it 

To cut down 
the draft, pile up 
bricks in front of 
the fire-pit open- 
ing, or, lacking 
bricks, use a. 
piece of sheet- 
iron. A damper 
can be set in the smoke-pipe to help check the draft, or a 
piece of sheet-iron can be laid across the top of the pipe. 
A Wash-Boiler Camp Stove. Every time the author 




■fftp&iz mm® 



Fig. 512. — Wash-Boiler Camp Stove 



246 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



sees a discarded wash-boiler in a vacant-lot or scrap heap, 
he wonders why some boy hasn't seen possibilities in it, 
and taken it home. You can make a dandy camp-stove 
like that shown in Fig. 512, out of a boiler, and there are 
other ways of making good use of one. In addition to the 
boiler, you will need a section of 4-inch stovepipe, a damper, 
and some tin cans. 

Cut three openings in the wash boiler bottom, 4 inches in 
diameter, one for the stove-pipe, the other two for cooking 
utensils to stand over; and in the end of the boiler farthest 
from the stove-pipe cut an opening for a fuel doorway. The 
cutting can be done best with tinsnips,but a can-opener will 
answer the purpose if you haven't a pair of snips. 

The piece of tin removed from the fuel doorway must be 
made into a door (Fig. 513) by fastening strips of tin to its 

edges (B and C, 



Fig 514) to make 
it wide enough to 
overlap the edges 
of the doorway. 
Attach the strips 
with carpet tacks. 
Punch holes in 
the tin to drive the tacks through, and clinch the tack 
ends. Hang the door with hinges made of pieces of wire 
(D, Fig. 513), passing the wires through holes punched 
through the edge of the door and edge of the boiler, and 
twisting the ends together. A simple catch for the door 
is made of a screw-hook (JS, Figs. 513 and 515), and a 




P0 

Fig. 513 

Figs. 513-515. 



Fig. 515 Fig. 514 

— Details of Door for Camp Stove 



BACK YARD AND CAMP FIREPLACES 



247 



section of a broom-handle (F). Punch a hole through 
the stove door for the shank of the screw-hook to slip 
through, close enough to the front edge so when the hook 
is turned horizontally its tip will catch upon the inside 
surface of the boiler. Screw the screw-hook into knob F. 




Fig. 516. — Camp-Fire Tripod Spread 



Fig. 517. —Tripod Folded 



Make stove covers out of tin cans, and for 

A Fire Shovel, fasten a piece of tin in the slotted end 
of a stick. Just such a shovel as this is shown in front of 
the stove, in Fig. 512. It makes an excellent shovel for 
removing ashes. 

There are all sorts of patented camp-fire grates and racks, 
made collapsible to simplify transportation, but 

The Camp-Fire Tripod shown in Fig. 516, made of three 



248 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

io-inch iron shelf -brackets bolted together as shown in 
Fig. 517, is all that a boy could wish for a one-receptacle 
fireplace. Figure 516 shows the tripod spread, Fig. 517 
shows it folded for transporting, and the photograph of 
Fig. 518 shows the stove in use. You can use the tripod 
fireplace in the backyard or at camp. 




Fig. 519.— A Varnish-Can Lantern (See Chapter 23;. 




Fig. 518.— Using the Shelf-Bracket Camp-Stove Tripod (See Chapter 22). 





CHAPTER XXIII 
BACK YARD AND CAMP LAMPS 



Whether you camp out in the woods or in the back yard, 
you will find the lamps, lanterns, and other light fixtures 
shown in this chapter well worth having. 

The Varnish-Can Lantern shown in Fig. 519 is a dandy 
candle lantern. You can procure a varnish-can or oil-can 
from almost any painter. Perhaps it will be a dirty old can 
gobbed up inside and out with hardened oil or paint That 
does not matter in the least. If the can is not too badly 
dented, accept it. Dried oil or paint can be removed by 
stuffing the can with paper or excelsior, then taking the 
can outdoors anxi lighting the contents. It is best to leave 
the burning until after the lantern lens opening has been 
cut, so there will be plenty of draft to keep the paper burning. 

Two openings must be cut, a circular opening in the front 
of the can for the lens, (Fig. 520), and a slot in the top, 
close to the front, and extending from side to side through 
which to slide the lens (Fig. 520 and 523). The cutting 
is most easily done with a can-opener. If mother has the 
improved kind of can-opener, with a center point that you 
jab into the can, and a cutter that you adjust to the diam- 
eter of opening you want to cut, then swing about the 

center, you will not have to describe a circle in pencil to 

249 



250 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



locate the circular lens opening. But if mother's can- 
opener is of the old-fashioned kind, it will require only a 

little more care to 
make it follow the 
circumference of a 
described circle. 
Ragged edges left 
by the cutting can 
be made smooth 
with a file. The 
can-opener will 
only separate the 
tin, it will not cut 
any away; there- 
fore, after cutting 
the slot in the can 
top, you must 
take a pair of 
pincers and pinch 
the front raw edge 
of the tin tight 
against the can 
front, because the 
slot must be wide 
enough for a piece 
of glass to slip 
through. 

A 5-by-7 camera 
plate is of the 




Fig. 522 



Fig. 520 



FlG. 520. — Detail of Varnish-Can Lantern Shown 

in Fig. 519 
Figs. 521 and 522. — Detail of Handle 



BACK YARD AND CAMP LAMPS 



251 



right size for the lantern lens for a gallon-can. If you 
cannot get such a plate, you probably can find a piece of 
glass that can be cut down to these dimensions. With a 
10-cent glass cutter cutting is easy. You should own one 
of these, because it will be of frequent use in your workshop. 
Guides must be 
provided for the 
glass to slide be- 
tween {A, Fig. 523). 
These are made of 
strips of tin % inch 
wide and 7 inches 
long, cut from a 
tomato can, and 
they are bolted in 
position with stove- 
bolts H inch long 
(Z?,Fig.523). Punch 
the holes for the 
bolts through the 
lantern front, and 
through the guide 
strips, with a nail 
or brad-awl. Space 
the holes so they 
will come towards 
the ends of theguide 
strips, and place 

them at the right Fig. 523. — Detail Showing Inside of Lantern 




252 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



distance apart width 
wise of the can so the 
glass lens will slide 
between the stove- 
bolts. Screw one nut 
on to each stove- 
bolt, to come be- 
tween the lantern- 
front and guide strip 
A, then slip the guide strips on to the bolts, and fasten in 
position with nuts screwed on to the stove-bolts. Stove- 




Fig. 524 



Fig. 525 
Figs. 524 and 525. — Details of Candle-Holder 




Fig. 527 



Figs. 526 and 527. — Lard- Pail Candle Lantern 

bolt C (Fig. 523) forms a lug for the bottom edge of the 
glass to rest upon. Place it about 6 3^ inches below the top 
of the can, so when the glass is in position its top edge will 



BACK YARD AND CAMP LAMPS 



253 



Fig. 528. — Tin-Can 
Candle-Holder 



project far enough 
above the lantern 
top to be easily 
gripped by your 
fingers, when you 
open the lantern 
for lighting or ex- 
tinguishing the 
candle. 

The candle- 
holder is made of 
a piece of tin cut 
the shape of D 
(Fig. 524), with a 
hole pierced 
through its center 
through which to slip the nail F (Fig. 525). Nail F must 
be driven through the center of a stick E (Figs. 523 and 
525), cut of the right length to fit widthwise across the 
inside of the can bottom, and its point must be filed sharp 
like a tack point, because the candle is to be pushed down 
upon it. The holder is completed by tacking the tin piece 
D to strip E, placing a tack each side of nail F, then bending 
up the four ears at the proper points to make a pocket that 
will hold a candle of standard size. Fasten strip E in the 
lantern bottom by driving nails through the can sides into 
the stick ends. 

The spout of the can forms the lantern chimney, and 
needs no alteration. For ventilation, punch several holes 




Fig. 529.— Another 
Tin-Can Candle- 
Holder 

Fig.530.— How Can 
Bottom is Cut to 
Receive Candle 



254 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



through the lantern sides, near the bottom, as indicated. 
A varnish-can has a tin handle, but it would become too 
hot to hold; and, because it is soldered in place, it would 
pull off if the solder is heated to the melting point. There- 
fore, it is best to break 
off the handle, and sub- 
stitute a bale like that 
shown in Fig. 521. This 
is made of a parcel han- 
dle (Fig. 522), and a 
piece of heavy wire 24 
inches long. Remove 
the hooked wire of the 
parcel handle, and in 
its place slip the long 
piece of wire. Bend the 
wire ends to the shape 
shown in Fig. 521, slip 
them through holes 
punched through the lan- 
tern-top and ends (Fig. 
520), and bend up and 
over the standing part 
of the wire (Fig. 519). 

The first step in mak- 
ing 

The Lard -Pail Candle 
„ coo _,. . T Lantern shown in Figs. 

Fig. 532. — Bicycle-Lamp e °. 

Bracket Light- Fixture 526 and 527 Consists in 




Fig. 531. — Candle Light-Fixture 




BACK YARD AND CAMP LAMPS 



255 






BK<r 




M' 



cutting a hole in one 
side of the pail mid- 
way between the top 
and bottom, of the 
right diameter so the 
candle will make a 
^ <i tt ,_, snug fit. Then re- 

Fig. 534. — Candle-Holder & 

for Lamp-Post move one end of the 

bale, bend it over to the pail bottom, and 
fasten the wire in the hole. As the candle 
burns down, push it up through the hole. 

The Tin-Can Candle-Holder shown in 
Fig. 528 may be made out of almost any 
kind of can at hand. Run a piece of wire 
down through a hole pierced through the 
can bottom, twist it into the form of a 
handle, and wrap it with twine. Fill the 
can with earth to hold the candle upright. 
Another Tin - Can Candle - Holder is 
shown in Fig. 529. Cut two slits in the 
can bottom, one crossing the other (Fig. 
530), and bend down the four points of tin 
■^hiJiW^-s to make an opening of the right size to 
stick the candle in. Point a stake on the 
lower end for a support, and tack the can 
to its side. Drive the stake into the 
ground wherever you wish to have light. 
The Candle Light-Fixture in Fig. 531 requires four wooden 
strips. Near each end of a strip 16 inches long, drive four 



Fig. 533.— Candle 
Lamp-Post 



256 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

nails to form candle-holders. For reflectors, tack two can 
covers to a strip 15 inches long, with centers the same dis- 
tance apart as the candle-holder centers, and connect this 
strip with the candle-holder strip by means of a pair of 
narrow strips in the manner shown. 

If you want to hang this fixture from a tent ridge-pole, 
bore a hole through each of the vertical strips near the top, 
and cut a peg long enough to drive through the holes. Then 
screw a screw-eye into the ridge-pole, and slip the peg 
through the holes and screw-eye. 

The Bicycle -Lamp Bracket Light-Fixture shown in Fig. 
532 is easily set up, by driving a stake into the ground, and 
fastening the lamp bracket to its top. 

A Candle Lamp-Post like that in Fig. 533 is quickly made. 
A lard-pail or other tin pail of about that size, and a short 
pole or tree stump, are required. The first thing to do is 
to perforate the side of the can, using the point of a nail or 
a nail-set. The holes can be made in a hit-or-miss fashion, 
or you can work out a design. You might form the word 
"welcome" with the perforations as indicated. Make a 
few vent holes in the can bottom. 

When the can has been perforated, erect the post. Drive 
four nails through the can cover into the post top, to form 
the candle-holder (Fig. 534). The can is easily removed 
from and adjusted to the cover. 

Trench Candles like those that boys have made for 
soldiers fighting in the European war, are good camp lights 
(Fig. 535). Take eight or nine strips of newspaper of single- 
column width (Fig. 536), and roll them tightly upon a pencil 



BACK YARD AND CAMP LAMPS 



257 



or small round stick (Fig. 537). Bind the roll with wire 
(Fig. 538), then drop it into a pan of melted paraffin, and 




Fig. 539 



Fig. 538 



Fig. 535 

Fig. 535-539— Trench Candle and How to Make It 



let it become saturated. A stick with tin fastened around 
its top to protect the wood (Fig. 539) makes a good trench- 
candle support. 




CHAPTER XXIV 
A BIKE GARAGE 




No self-respecting boy would leave his bicycle outdoors, 
exposed to the weather like a neglected piece of farm mach- 
inery, because it would not be long before it would look 
like a "bum old bike," and he would be ashamed to be seen 
riding it; also, because he knows that it would require a 
complete overhauling and thorough lubrication to put it 
back into good running order. The fellow who neglects 
his wheel must sooner or later learn to care for it properly 
or he will never become qualified to handle machinery. 
Sometimes it is an effort for a fellow to put away his wheel 
upstairs or downstairs, after a long ride, which, it would 
seem, has exhausted every bit of his energy; and sometimes 
he will foot a short distance rather than take the trouble 
to get his wheel out from an out-of-the-way place. To 
have the wheel handy-by would make it of greater useful- 
ness, and would repay the owner for the time, labor, and 
expense required to provide an outside shelter. 

A garage like the one shown in Fig. 540, built only large 
enough to hold the wheel, can be set up quickly. From the 
working-drawings in Figs. 541 to 547 you will get all of 
the details necessary for building the shed. For the 

258 



A BIKE GARAGE 



259 



Working Material you will need a 2-by-4 8 feet long for 
the corner posts (A, Fig. 543), 72 lineal feet of 2 -by- 2s 
for the framework pieces B, C, D, E, F and Goi the floor, 




Fig. 540. — The Completed Bike Garage 

walls, and roof (Figs. 541, 543, and 545), 175 lineal feet of 
10-inch shiplap for the walls, door, floor, roof, and runway, 
and 50 lineal feet of 4-inch boards for trimming around 
the roof, the wall corners, the doorway, and for door battens. 
It may be that you can get old lumber of different dimen- 
sions from the above pieces, and it may be that you have 



26 o CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

some pieces on hand which you can run in with new stuff. 
You can alter the plans in such a way as will best suit your 
material, bearing in mind of course the dimensions required 
to accommodate a bicycle. Instead of the shiplap specified 




Fig. 541. — Longitudinal Section 



for the boarding up of the framework, you may prefer to 
use tongued-and-grooved boards, or for the walls you may 
prefer drop-siding, which makes a neater finish. You may 
want to sheath up the framework with plain or matched 
boards, and then finish with beveled-siding, or with stucco. 



A BIKE GARAGE 



261 




.V* 

Fig. 542. — Cross-Section 



These are matters 
which you will have 
to decide yourself. 
A material man will 
help you to figure 
out quantities. 

The Floor Frame- 
work. The tops of 
the 2 - by - 4 corner 
posts A must be 
notched as shown in 
Fig. 544 to receive 
the ends of the floor 
framework pieces B. 
Having the width 
and length dimen- 
sions given you in 

Fi g- 543 > y° u can 
locate the proper 
positions for the cor- 
ner posts A. Dig 
the post holes 18 
inches deep. Be cer- 
tain that the posts 
line up correctly 
before you fill in 
around them. They 
may look right, yet 
be enough out of 



202 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



the way to throw the entire framework out of square. The 
proper way to do is to fasten pieces B in the notches in 
the tops of the posts, after the posts have been dropped 




Fig. 543. 

into the holes, then fasten pieces C to their ends, with 
one nail driven part way in. Test the corners one at 
a time with a square, and, when you have corrected 
any error that you may find, nail a temporary diagonal 
brace across the tops to hold the pieces rigid. When all 

corners are correct, 
spike all members in 
place. 

Lay the Floor short- 
ways of the frame- 
work. With it in 
place, build the walls. 
Make 

The Side Walls in 
sections like that 
shown in Fig. 545. 
Cut the plate D and 




Fig. 544. 



Corner of Foundation 



A BIKE GARAGE 



263 



corner uprights E and F, of the dimensions indicated, and 
place them flat upon the ground; block up the ends and 
center, if necessary, to make them level. Spike together 
the ends of these pieces, then nail about four of the side 
boards to them. Trim off the tops of uprights E and F so 
top plate G will rest squarely upon them, and spike the top 
plate in place. Then finish nailing on the remaining wall 




Fig. 545. — Side Wall 

boards. Having completed one wall, turn it over so the 
framework members will be uppermost, place the frame- 
work members of the opposite wall upon them, nail on the 
siding, and you will have the second wall a duplicate of 
the first, only reversed. 

Erecting The Walls. When the two side walls have been 
completed, stand them erect upon the shed floor, in their 
right positions, hold them in position with temporary braces, 
and spike the floor plates to the floor. Cut end plates H 



264 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



and / of the right length to fit between side wall plates G, 

and spike them in place. Then nail on the rear-wall siding. 
Figure 542, a cross-section taken through the shed at the 

point 0-0 (Fig. 541), 
shows how 

The Roof is put 
on in two layers, 
the upper layer 
overlapping the 
edges of the lower 
layer. Fill in the 
pieces / between 
the ends of the lower 
boards (Fig. 541 
and 542). 

Figure 546 gives 
dimensions for 

The Door, and 
shows how to batten 
together and brace 
the boards. Trim 
up the doorway with 
a board across the 
head, and a strip 
down each jamb. 
Cut the trimming 
boards of the right 

widths to leave a M-inch clearance around the door edges. 

Hinge the door on the edge indicated in Fig. 546, and fit 




Fig. 546. — Door 



A BIKE GARAGE 



265 




it with a strong lock. A box can be fastened to the inside 
of the door for 

A Cupboard in which to keep miscellaneous tools and 
supplies, as shown in Fig. 541, provided you use heavy 
enough hinges in hanging the door to prevent sagging. 

Make a Wheel-Rack to support the bicycle when it is 
in the garage (Fig. 541) Make this as shown in Fig. 547. 

Cut the piece of 2-by- 
4 if of the right length 
to fit between the side 
walls of the shed, and 
nail the blocks N to 
it at the center 2 
inches apart. Fasten the rack in the shed at the right height 
to catch the top of the rear wheel of the bicycle. 

A Runway from the ground to the floor level, built as 
shown in Figs. 540 and 541, will complete the carpenter 
work on the garage. 

Paint the Bike Garage two coats of oil paint to protect 
it from the weather. It will look best if you paint the 
tr'mming pieces a different color from the body color. 

To Make the Garage Tighter, you can cover the inside 
of the walls and roof with building paper well-lapped and 
tacked. 



Fig. 547. — Rack for Rear Wheel 





CHAPTER XXV 
A TOBOGGAN SLIDE 




A frame toboggan-slide is a simple structure for boys 
to build, but the matter of expense frequently prevents 
them from undertaking the work, or the idea does not 
occur to them until after the first snow-storm has arrived, — 
and any boy who has tried outdoor carpentry in cold weather, 
with gloves and heavy clothing to hamper the movements 
of hands and limbs, knows that it cannot be done satisfac- 
torily. Such conditions often cause the abandonment of 
the idea of building a slide or a postponment until the 
following autumn. 

The plans in this chapter will enable you boys to build a 
small toboggan-slide with little or no expense, and you can 
put it up in cold weather because there is little carpentry 
connected with the work, and part of that may be done 
indoors. Besides, as there are no heavy pieces of lumber 
to handle, you can tackle the job without assistance. 

Building Material. Figure 548 shows the completed 
toboggan-slide, and Figs. 549 and 550 show how it is con- 
structed out of a packing-box, a few wooden strips, and 
snow. Of course, such a slide as this may be built entirely 
of snow, but, unless it is placed in the corner of the yard 
where there will be a high fence on each side of the platform 

266 







K 






267 



268 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS EOR BOYS 



to protect the coasters, there should be a railing to prevent 
any one from slipping off the top of the slide and possibly 
injuring himself. 

A packing-box is used for 

The Platform Base. Get a large packing-box, or, if 
you cannot find one, take a number of small boxes and 




Fig. 549. — The Completed Platform and Railings 



bind them together with strips. The length of the box, 
or the length of the combined boxes, should be at least 3 feet, 
as there should be this much space between the platform 
railings. 

The Platform Railings are fastened to the ends of the 



A TOBOGGAN-SLIDE 



269 



box (Fig. 550). Nail the pair of uprights A and B to each 
end of the box, then fasten the crosspieces C to their tops. 
The railing should come at least 30 inches above the finished 
toboggan-slide platform; and, as the top of the platform 
may be built up of snow 12 inches or more higher than 
the top of the box, to make a higher slide, this height must 
be settled before cutting the 
railing uprights, in order to get 
them of the right length. 

Figure 549 shows how 

The Step -Railings are fas- 
tened in place, and Fig. 551 
shows how the uprights D are 
connected and braced. First 
cut uprights D about 18 inches 
shorter than uprights A (Fig. 
549), then cut the board E (Figs 
549 and 551) about 3 feet 
longer than the packing-box, 
and nail it to the edges of up- 
rights D at their lower ends, 
placing the uprights the same 
distance apart as uprights A. 
Cut the braces F 3 or 4 feet 
long, and nail their ends securely to board E and uprights D. 

After making this piece of framework, set it about 30 
inches away from the packing-box platform base, with 
uprights D directly in line with uprights A (Fig. 549) , and con- 
nect the uprights with the cross-pieces G and the handrails H. 




Fig. 550. — • How the Platform 
Railings are Put On 



270 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

Setting Up the Framework. With the framework of the 
platform and steps completed, select a good location for 
your toboggan-slide; then place the framework upon a sled 
and pull it over to that spot and set it in position. One good 
thing about this form of framework is its compactness, and 




Fig. 551. — Supports for Step-Railings 

the ease with which it may be taken from one place to 
another. You may build a toboggan-slide in your own 
back yard one time; then another time, if you decide that 
conditions are better in your chum's back yard, all you 
will have to do will be set the framework upon your sled 
and haul it over to his yard. 

While you have been making the platform framework, 
your companions should have busied themselves with 

Collecting Snow for the Slide. The snow is gathered 
most easily by rolling it into balls, starting with small balls 
some distance away from the position selected for the 
toboggan-slide, and gradually working them over toward 
that spot as you roll them. Each boy may start a ball and 
roll it until it becomes too heavy for him to manage alone; 




271 



272 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

then two or more boys should work together, and, when 
the balls are of the right size, roll them into position. The 
size of the balls should diminish in the proportion necessary 
to give the proper slope to the slide. 

Fill in the spaces between the balls with snow, and tamp 
it down with a stick; then level off the tops. If the snow is 
too dry to pack well, pour water over the slide as you con- 
struct it. The more compact you make the slide, the more 
substantial it will be, and the longer it will last. 

The Platform. Pile upon the packing-box the amount 
of snow necessary to make the platform of the height 
desired; then build 

A Set of Steps as shown in Fig. 548. Make the steps 
broad, and pitch them slightly toward the back. Do not 
pour water on them, because it will make them slippery. 
They will wear down, of course, but they can be repaired 
quickly. If a board is built into the top of each step, they 
will be more durable. 

The Surface of the Slide should be made slippery by 
pouring water upon it, but, before this is done, tracks 
should be formed by running a sled down the slide a few 
times. Make these tracks wide enough so that sleds of 
different widths will fit them. It is a good idea, also, to 
bank up the snow along each side of the slide to form a 
ledge, so there will be no possibility of a sled running off 
of the slide in case it leaves its tracks. 

If There is a Scarcity of Snow, much may be saved by 
filling in a portion of the base of the slide with a barrel or 
with boxes. The snow placed upon the top of the barrel 






A TOBOGGAN-SLIDE 273 

or boxes will form an arch over them that will make the 
slide as firm as though it were built entirely of snow. 

A Plank Slide. A couple of planks may be used for the 
upper portion of the slide, to save snow (Fig. 552). These 
may be either 10-inch or 12 -inch planks of whatever length 
you can get. Fasten them together with wooden battens 
placed about 3 feet apart, as shown in Fig. 553, and nail a 




Fig. 553. — How to Batten Together Planks for Upper Part of Toboggan-Slide 

strip to each edge, as shown, to form a guard with a 3 or 
4-inch projection. If 10-inch planks are used, they may be 
placed 2 or 3 inches apart, in order to make the slide that 
much wider (Fig. 5.53). The width of a sled is greater than 
that of one plank, so the runners could not possibly run into 
the opening left between the planks. Nail a board across 
uprights B of the platform framework (Fig. 552) to support 
the upper end of the planks. Then build up a snow slide 
at the end of the planking, as shown in Fig. 552, to make 
the slide as long as is desired, and embed the end of the planks 
in the snow. 

These ideas have been worked out in a very simple form, 
but if any of you want to build 

A More Elaborate Toboggan-Slide, longer, and with a 
higher platform, you will readily see that its construction 



274 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

will be similar. A number of packing-boxes may be fastened 
together to make the platform as large as is desired, while 
several lengths of planking may be used for the slide, sup- 
ported at the ends on snow piers — just as a long bridge is 
supported upon piers of masonry. If several packing-boxes 
are fastened together for a large platform, they should be 
bound with wooden strips. If the top boxes are made of 
thin wood, a flooring of boards should be nailed across them 
to distribute the weight of the coasters who are to stand 
upon them, and thus prevent the possibility of breaking 
through the boxes. 





CHAPTER XXVI 
A BOB-SLED 




There are two ways of building a bob-sled. One way- 
is to knock together a pair of coasters out of any sort of 
material that happens to be at hand, and connect the pair 
with a plank or board, in the shortest time possible; the 
other way is to use the best material that you can get, and 
assemble this so as to produce the most substantial sled 
you know how to make, regardless of the time the work 
requires. The first method is all right for a rough-and- 
ready bob, but the latter method is the one to follow if 
you want a sled that will serve not only through the winter 
season of the current year, but for years to come. 

In building the model shown in the photograph of Fig. 
554, the author worked out every detail with strength and 
durability uppermost in mind, and if you will carefully 
follow the working-drawings and instructions your com- 
pleted bob-sled will be something of which you can be 
mighty proud. 

The Material Required will not cost a great deal; possibly 
you have the right sort of stuff at hand for the greater part 
of the sled. The model in the illustration is upholstered, 
with a top covering of imitation leather. Upholstering is 
such an easy thing to do that I would advise you to upholster 

27s 



276 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

your bob-sled; however, you can use cheaper material than 
imitation leather. Oilcloth, burlap, or a strip of carpet will 
answer the purpose. 

Two boards 10 inches wide and 12 feet long, out of which 
to cut sled runners, crosspieces, seats and hand-rails; and a 
piece of 2-by-4 for connecting blocks, will be all of the 
lumber that you will need. Then, in addition, you will 
have to have eight corner irons for bracing the sled runners, 
a 24-inch carriage-bolt 7 inches long with which to pivot 
the bob-sled seat to the bow sled, a pair of 4-by-4-inch steel 
hinges for hinging the bob-sled seat to the stern sled, fourteen 
stove-bolts 1 inch long and eight 2 inches long, for bolting 
the hinges and hand-rails in position, %-inch and ji^-inch 
screws, 13^-inch and 2-inch common nails, four pieces of 
half -oval iron strips for runner shoes, a piece of iron jack- 
chain 2 feet long with which to check the bow of the rear 
sled, and four %-inch screw-eyes. For upholstering the 
bob-sled seat, you must have excelsior, covering material, 
and tacks. 

Figure 555 shows a detail of the completed sled, with 
one-half (the bow) drawn in section, and the other half 
(the stern) drawn in elevation. All parts are lettered on 
this detail, and correspondingly lettered on the smaller 
working details (Figs. 556 to 570), to make clear the assem- 
bling. 

The Sled Runners should be prepared first of all (A, Fig. 
558). Figure 561 shows a pattern, with the ends ruled off 
into squares to simplify the laying out of the curved bow 
and stern. Take a cardboard box-cover, and make similar 






f ' 

( 




A BOB-SLED 



277 



patterns for the bow and stern, ruling off the same number 
of squares, 1 inch square, then locating on the lines separating 
the squares points corresponding to points at which the curve 
intersects the lines on the pattern illustrated. With the 
points located, it will be an easy matter to connect them 
with a curved line. 

Locate the pair of notches in the top edge, for the connect- 
ing crosspieces B (Fig. 558), and carefully cut out the 

TOP- COVERING 
/ /UNDER COVERING 
< / /E XCELSIOR 




Fig. 556 

Fig. 555. — Side View and Longitudinal Section 
Fig. 556. — Detail of Runner Shoe 



pattern. Splice two pieces of cardboard end to end if you 
cannot get a long enough piece of single length for the 



HAND-RAIL 




*_1 



Fig. 557. — Plan of Under Side of Bob-Sled Seat 



278 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



pattern. With a saw, cut out the ends, sawing to within 
about y% inch of the line, then finish up to the line with a 
plane, and sandpaper. Cut the sides of the notches with a 
saw, and split out the wood between the cuts with a chisel. 
Cut 

The Connecting Crosspieces B of the length shown in 
Fig. 560, by the width of the notches, and nail them in 
place. Then brace the ends of each with the corner irons 
D (Fig. 559), screwing these to the runners and to the 
crosspieces, in the positions shown. 




Fig. 559 Fig. 560 

Fig. 558. — Detail of Bow and Stern Sleds 
Fig. 559. — Cross-Section Fig. 560. — Runner Connecting Crosspieces 

Crosspiece C on the bow sled (Fig. 558) is 
The Foot-bar. Cut it 18 inches long. The boy who 
steers the bob-sled rests his feet against the projecting ends 



A BOB-SLED 



279 



of the foot-bar. After nailing the bar in place, drive a 
screw-eye into each end, as shown in Fig. 568. Tie 

The Steering-Line ends to the foot-bar just inside of the 
runners, then run them over to and up through the screw- 
eyes, as shown. By this arrangement, the feet of the boy 
who steers will be kept from slipping off of the foot-bar by 
the steering-lines. 




r3'i+|fp"3^ 30 ^ 3 :u^ Hl v- i 


-/- 


1 1 1 , 


7 


Z J 


A «*- ^ 


L_ 


r^ ^ 


5^ 


—™«— """' 



Fig. 561 
Fig. 561. — Pattern for Sled Runners Fig. 562. — Pattern for Sled Seats 

Figure 562 shows a pattern for 

The Sled Seats. The stern end may be left square if 
you like, but rounding it as shown will give it more style. 
Nail the seats in place, using long enough nails to clinch 
upon the under side of the braces. 

With the sleds completed, prepare 



28o 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



The Bob -Sled Connecting Seat (F, Fig. 563) of the size 
shown, then the connecting blocks G, H, I and J (Figs. 
563, 564 and 565). Make blocks G and H in one piece 
(Fig. 566), bore a %-inch hole through the piece at the 
center of its length, for the king-bolt, and rip in half as 
indicated by dotted lines. Nail block H to the under side 
of seat F, and block G to the seat of the bow sled. Bore a 
hole through seat F directly over that in block H. Figures 
563 and 564 indicate how the king-bolt runs down through 




Fig. 565 



Fig. 564 



Fig. 563. — Detail of Bob-Sled Seat 

Fig. 564. — How Bow Sled is Bolted to Seat 

Fig. 565. — How Stern Sled is Hinged to Seat 

seat F and block H, then through two iron washers, through 
block G, seat, E, a third washer, and the nut. 

Block i" is beveled upon its side edges to make it fit across 
the stern seat at the angle shown in Fig. 565. Nail it 
securely to the seat, then brace it with the block /, beveling 
the edge of J so it will fit squarely against block /. Block / 
must be hinged to seat F by means of 4-by-4-inch hinges. 
Bolt the hinges in place with stove-bolts of the length 



A BOB-SLED 



281 



specified. The stern sled is hinged to make it rise and fall 
independently of the bow sled when the bob-sled runs 
over uneven ground, or when it has reached the foot of a 
coasting hill or toboggan-slide. Connect the bow of this 
sled to the under side of the bob-sled seat, with check-chains 
(Figs. 554 and 555), driving screw-eyes into crosspiece C 
and into the under side of seat F, to connect the chains to. 




HOLE 



Fig. 567. — Blocks for 

Connecting Stern Sled 

to Bob-Sled Seat 




Fig. 566. — Blocks for Fig. 568. — How to 
Connecting Bow Sled to Attach Steering-Line to 
Bob-Sled Seat Foot-Bar 



Upholstering the Seat. If you upholster the bob-sled 
seat,you must nail strips K and L (Figs. 569 and 570) to 
its edges, to hold in the upholstering material. Cut these 
strips 2 inches wide, and round the outer edge of the top 
of each, as shown in Fig. 570, to give a rounded edge to the 
upholstering. Miter the ends of the strips, to make mitered 
corners. 

Spare neither time nor pains in packing in the excelsior 
padding, because only with painstaking care, adding here 
and there in low places, and removing from high places, will 
you get a good job. Dampen the excelsior to make it pack 
solidly. When you are satisfied that all is in readiness for 



282 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



the covering material, get a piece of ticking or other heavy 
material, and spread it over the excelsior; then examine 
the work, and you will be surprised to find low places that 
you did not notice before. The excelsior must be packed 
in tightly along the side edges, so that the edges of strips 
K and L cannot be felt, and along the center to make it 
higher there than along the edges. With the low places 
filled out, tack the covering along the remaining sides. Then 
spread the top covering over this under covering, bring its 




Fig. 569 



Fig. 570 



Fig. 569 and 570. 



Details Showing Strip around Edge of Seat to Hold in 
Upholstering Material 



edges down over the sides, and tack to the under side of 
seat board F (Fig. 557). 

In the photograph of Fig. 554 you will see how the edges 
of the upholstered seat can be improved by the addition of 
upholstering-tacks. If you use an imitation leather cover- 
ing, you can buy tacks with heads that match If you use 
other material, you can buy tacks with large brass heads. 
Space the tacks about 2 inches apart (Figs. 555 and 557). 

With the upholstering completed, prepare 

The Hand -Rails M (Fig. 557) of the size shown, and 
round off their edges with a plane to make them easy to 
grip. Then prepare the cross-pieces N (Fig. 557) 3 inches 
wide, by the length shown. The hand-rails must be bolted 



A BOB-SLED 2S3 

to the crosspieces in the positions indicated in Fig. 557, 
with the 1 -inch stove-bolts specified in the list of material. 
Use care in boring the bolt holes, to get them in correspond- 
ing positions. After bolting the rails to the crosspieces, 
remove the king-bolt, and the hinge bolts, thus releasing 
the seat, and screw crosspieces N to the under side of the 
seat. 

Runner Shoes. Buy half-oval iron strips % inch wide, 
long enough to turn up and over the bow and stern as shown 
in Fig. 556, for runner shoes, and have a couple of holes 
drilled through each, near each end, for screws, for screwing 
to the under side of the sled runners. 

Painting. With the bob-sled's construction completed, 
protect the wood with paint. The author suggests that 
you select red for the color. This and a green upholstering 
material, such as was used upon the model illustrated, make 
a mighty striking sled, and if your workmanship is good, 
you will have a job which will make envious all of the boys 
in your neighborhood, and all around town, who have not 
built similar sleds. 





CHAPTER XXVII 
A SNOW-FORT PERISCOPE 



When you defend a snow-fort, or "snow-trench" to be 
modern, you not only want to keep the enemy's attacking 
party at a distance by well-a' ed snowballs, but also to 
escape from being hit by their snowballs. By building the 
walls of your fort or trench breast high, you need expose 
only your head and shoulders when throwing, and you can 
quickly "duck" behind the wall when you see a snowball 
coming. But the author well remembers how the lads 
attacking a snow fort used to wait for the defenders' heads to 
appear — in fact, got to know just when they would appear, 
— and "soaked" them before there was a chance to get 
into a throwing position. Probably you have had the same 
experience. Although this adds excitement to a snow 
fight, the fun is all on the side of the boys attacking. By 
the use of periscopes, however, the defenders can have the 
advantage on their side. 

With a periscope, you know, a soldier sees what is going 
on outside of the trench, or other fortification, without 
exposing his head to the enemy's fire. Just so with the 
home-made snow fort periscope. With its top projecting 
above the wall of your snow fort, as shown in Fig. 571, 
you watch the enemy while fully protected by the fort, 

284 




Fig. 572. — Front View 
of Periscope. 



Fig. 571.-While Protected by the Snow Fort, You Watch the Enemy 



Through the Periscope. 



A SNOW-FORT PERISCOPE 



and you expose 
yourself only when 
you see that no- 
body is prepared 
to throw at you. 
One periscope will 
serve several boys 
if one boy acts as 
observer and di- 
rects the "fire." 

Figure 571 
shows a rear view 
and Fig. 572 a 
front view of the 
home-made peri- 
scope in use, Fig. 
573 shows a work- 
ing detail of the 
completed peri- 
scope, and Fig. 
577 shows a ver- 
tical section. 

Material Re- 
quired. Boards 
%-inch thick were 
used in making 
the periscope 
model illustrated, 
but even thinner 



Fig. 575 




Fig. 57 



Fig. 573.— Complete Periscope. Fig. 574 and 
575. — Detail of Screened Front Fig. 576. — Handle 



286 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 




boards than this will 
do. The lighter the 
weight is, the easier 
it will be to handle 
the periscope. Per- 
haps you can find a 
packing-box made 
of ^-inch boards 
which you can break 
up for the purpose. 
Two mirrors are 
needed. Those used 
for the model were 
bought at 5 cents 
apiece at a 5-and-io- 
cent store. They 
are 5 inches wide 
and 6 inches long. 
Get the mirrors be- 
fore you construct 
the periscope box, 
because if they don't 
measure 5 inches 
wide and 6 inches 
long you will have 
to alter the dimen- 
sions of the side 
pieces to suit them. 



Fig. 577. — Vertical Section 
Fig. 578. — Mirror 






A SNOW-FORT PERISCOPE 



287 



Cutting Out the Parts. After cutting side pieces A, the 
front and back pieces B 3 and the ends C (Fig. 573), by the 
patterns of Fig. 579, cut eight narrow strips (D, Fig. 579) 
for cleats on which to support the edges of the mirrors. 



«-e ar"-H 




r 

• T 

lojco 
10 

♦ 


c 




'*- 5*-» 


t 

i 

i 

CO 

c\l 

1 

1 

i 


B 



Fig. 579. — Patterns for Sides, Front, Back and Ends of Periscope 

These strips may be cut out of cigar-box wood. Fasten 
the strips with brads to sides A at an angle of 45 degrees, 
placing a pair at each end, just far enough apart so the 
mirrors will slip between them, and so the ends will be far 
enough away from the edges of sides A to allow for the 



288 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



thickness of the front, rear, and end boards which are set 
against them. It is absolutely necessary to place the strips 
at one end exactly parallel with the pair at the opposite 
end, so that the reflecting surfaces of the mirrors will be 

parallel with one another, and, 
also, to place the strips on one 
board at the same height as 
those on the other board. 
Fasten the strips to one board, 
first, then use the same mea- 
surements for locating the 
strips upon the other board. 

To Assemble the Box, first 
nail sides A to the edges of 
back B (Fig. 580), then to the 
edges of front B. Notice that 
the back piece comes even 
with the tops of the sides, and 
that the front piece comes 
even with the bottoms of the 
sides. With pieces A and B 
nailed together, fasten ends C 
between them. These pieces 
will hold the mirrors in posi- 
tion. 

The Openings. The opening in the back of the periscope 
box is the one that you look into, the one in the front is 
turned toward the object you wish to view. As the upper 
mirror will be exposed it must be protected from snowballs 




Fig. 580. — How to Assemble the 
Periscope Parts 



A SNOW-FORT PERISCOPE 289 

by a piece of screen wire tacked over the opening (F, Fig. 
574). A frame of narrow wooden strips (Fig. 575) tacked 
over the edges of the wire will hold the wire in place. 

Handles nailed to the lower portion of the box (G, Fig. 
576) will complete the periscope. 

Paint the Periscope Box white so that it will be invisible 
from a distance, against the snow background. 




PART IV 

Garden Craft 



291 




■r-Sash Hot-Bed (See Chapter 28). 





Fig. 711.— First Story in Place. Fig. 712.— Adding the Second Story. 





Fig. 71H. — Third Story. 



Fig. 714.— Ready for the Martins. 
See Chapter 40.) 





CHAPTER XXVIII 
A HOTBED 




The growing season never arrives early enough for the 
enthusiastic boy gardener, so he provides himself with a 
hotbed, by which' means it is possible to have radishes, 
lettuce, and other early vegetables a month before they 
can be raised outdoors. Now, a hotbed is such a simple 
piece of garden equipment to make, and so easily operated, 
that there is no reason why every boy who goes in for gar- 
dening should not have one. 

A hotbed is in reality a small greenhouse, heated by 
fermenting manure. It consists of a pit from 2 to 3 feet 
deep, rilled with manure to within 6 inches of the ground 
level, with a 6-inch top dressing of garden soil. The front 
wall of the frame extends 6 inches above ground, the rear 
wall 12 inches, the sides slope from the height of the front 
wall to the height of the rear wall, and the open top is 
protected by glazed sash. 

The Size to Make the Hotbed will be determined by the 
size and number of sash at hand. Storm-sash or old window 
sash will do. Regular hotbed sash can be purchased at a 
door-and-sash mill, and from dealers handling garden 
accessories, in size 3 feet wide and 6 feet long. " 

A Single -Sash Hotbed is shown in Fig. 582. If a larger 

293 



294 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

bed is wanted, the frame can be made two or three times 
as wide, and two or three sash used. Figure 581 shows a 
four-sash hotbed. 

The Framework. Figure 583 shows a longitudinal 
section of the hotbed frame and pit. Corner posts A of the 
framework (Fig. 584) are 2 -by -4s, side boards B and end 
boards E and F (Fig. 584) are cut from i-by-8s, and boards 
C and G are i-by 6s. Rip a triangular strip from the upper 
edge of boards B, as shown in Fig. 585, so one end will 




Fig. 582. — Single-Sash Hotbed 



bo 



measure 1% inches wide, the other end 7% inches wide. 
The framework must be made enough narrower than the 
sash so the sash will lap over the sides, and 2 or 3 inches 
longer than the sash to allow for the strip H (Fig. 583), 
which is nailed across the top as a hinge-strip to screw the 
sash hinges to. Side pieces B will be of the right length for 
sash 6 feet long, if cut as shown in Fig. 585. 

To Assemble the Framework nail side boards B and C 
to corner posts A, then connect the two frames thus formed 



A HOTBED 



295 



with boards E, F, and G. Batten the side boards at their 
centers with pieces D. 

Dig the Hotbed Pit of the right depth so the lower edge 
of framework boards C, E, and G will come 2 inches below 
the ground surface. 

Filling the Pit. Procure enough horse manure to fill the 
pit to a depth of 2 feet (Fig. 583). Pile it up in a heap 




Fig. 583. — • Longitudinal Section of Hotbed Fame and Pit 



beside the hotbed, sprinkle it with water, and allow it to 
remain exposed to the air for two or three days, so the fer- 
menting process will get well under way. Then throw the 
manure into the hotbed pit, and close down the sash. The 
action of the sun's rays passing through the glass will 
increase the fermenting, and the temperature within the 
hotbed will be raised considerably above 100 degrees. 
Before the top soil is spread over the manure, the temper- 
ature must be reduced to about 90 degrees, which temper- 



296 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



ature must be taken with a thermometer. To reduce the 
temperature, raise the sash. Make the top dressing 6 inches 
in depth. Use the best garden soil that you can get. If 

Fig. 585. 
6 - O" — 





Fig. 584 

Fig. 584. — Detail of Hotbed Frame 

Fig. 585. — Detail of Upper Side Piece of Frame 

your soil is heavy, add a little sand to it. Bank up earth 
around the outside of the hotbed frame for insulation. 

The temperature of the soil must not be too great, else 
the plant roots will burn out. This must be regulated care- 
fully by raising the sash when necessary, to allow excess 






A HOTBED 297 

heat to escape. Raising the sash will also provide the 
plants with necessary fresh air, but you must use judgment 
in opening the sash, lest you freeze your plants. Keep the 
sash closed at night during severe weather, and cover it 
with pieces of carpet or with straw mats, for additional 
protection. 

Water the hotbed regularly, after the seeds have sprouted, 
doing this about mid-day so the leaves will dry off before 
sundown. 

A Cold-Frame differs from a hotbed only by the omission 
of the manure heating-agent. Sunlight alone is depended 
upon for heat. Consequently, the cold-frame can be 
depended upon only for forcing plants after the severe 
weather has passed. You can use the hotbed as a cold- 
frame after the manure has cooled. 





CHAPTER XXIX 
SEED BOXES AND PAPER POTS 




Plants raised from seed started indoors during late 
winter or early spring can be brought to maturity so many 
weeks ahead of plants started outdoors when the season 
is far enough advanced to permit doing so, that it is a prac- 




FiG. 586. — Seed-Flat 

tice well worth while to use seed boxes and paper pots if 
you haven't built a hotbed. Radishes, lettuce and other 
early vegetables can be started in, these boxes, and you can 
raise your tomato plants, and have them ready to set out 
the minute danger from frost has passed. 

Two or three grocery boxes filled with earth are all that 
you require for seed boxes, or 



SEED BOXES AND PAPER POTS 



299 




Fig. 587. — A Miniature Greenhouse with a Lean-to Roof. 

Seed-Flats— as the green-house man calls them. Most 
grocery boxes are too deep, but it is a simple thing to cut 
them down. Four inches is just about right. 

Figure 586 shows a seed-flat. Drill several holes through 
the box bottom near 
the center, for drain- 
holes,and nail blocks 
to the bottom at the 
corners for feet, to 
raise the box enough 
above the surface it 

is to Stand upon SO a Fig. 588. — The Dotted Lines Indicate Where 
1 v „~J to Cut the Box Sides. 

tin can be slipped lo ut . 

beneath to catch the water that will run out of the dram- 
holes. Screw a pair 
of handles to the 
box-ends. Give 
the box two coats 
of paint inside and 
out, to preserve the 

wood and fill up 
Fig 589. —The Cut-down Base Ready for . . 

Glass Roof joints. 





300 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 




Filling. Seeds will germinate in almost any kind of wet 
soil, but in order to have them develop into sturdy plants, 

the soil must be pre- 
pared with care. Soil 
from last summer's 
garden, enriched with 
leaf -mold, or pre- 
pared fertilizer, will 
be just right. Over 

Fig. 591. — A Greenhouse with a Gable Roof the bottom of the 

box, spread a layer of coarse stone, to insure good drainage. 
Then fill in the soil over this to a depth of 3 inches. Level 
off the top surface with a small block of wood, before planting. 
Plant as directed on the seed packages. With a ruler and 
nail you can scratch 
lines in the surface, 
for planting rows. 
Of course you can 
plant the seeds thick- 
ly for the purpose of 
germinating them, 
then transplant them 
into other boxes as 
soon as the second 
true leaf has appear- 
ed. Keep the soil 
moist,while the seeds 
are germinating, but never puddle it, and keep a newspaper 
over the box until the leaves show above the surface. 




Fig. 592. — The Dotted Lines Indicate Where to 
Cut the Box Sides 




Fig. 593. — The Box with Sides Cut Down 



SEED BOXES AND PAPER POTS 



301 



A novel arrangement for starting seeds indoors is to make 

Miniature Greenhouses like those shown in Figs. 587 
and 591. Starch boxes, are of about the right size for these. 
It is better to use small boxes than large ones because it 
will be easier to put on the glass roofs. 

Figure 587 shows the simpler model — ^ 

A Greenhouse with a Lean -To Roof. Cut the top of the 




Fig. 594. — Put on the Gable Ends Like This 



starch-box ends slanted so that the front edge is about 2 y 2 
inches high and the rear edge 5 inches high, and cut down 
the front and back even with the edges of the ends, as 
indicated by dotted lines in Fig. 588. 

With the cutting done, get a piece of glass large enough 
to fit over the top and project a trifle over the front and 
ends. Possibly you can find an unused picture-frame with 
a glass of the right size, or several camera plates that can 
be fastened together with adhesive-tape to make a piece 
large enough to cover the box; if not, a painter will sell 
you a piece. Hinge the glass with strips of adhesive-tape, 
(Fig. 587). 



302 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 




Fig. 595. — Hinge the Halves of 
the Glass Roof Like This 



The Greenhouse with a Gable Roof, shown in Fig. 591, 
looks more like a florist's greenhouse. The starch-box 
which forms the foundation must be cut down as indicated 
by dotted lines in Fig. 592, so the remaining depth will be 
about 2 y 2 inches (Fig. 593). 

With the box thus prepared, 
cut two end pieces out of thin 
box boards (A, Fig. 594), and 
tack these to the box ends. 
Make the peak of each end 
piece 8 inches above the bot- 
tom edge. The box may be 
stood on end upon the boards 
for the purpose of marking out 
the lower portion of end pieces 
A. When the board ends 
have been marked out, cut, 
and tacked to the box ends, 
procure two pieces of glass of 
the right size to project over 
ends A and the sides of the 
box, as shown in Fig. 591. 
Join these two pieces (B and 
C, Fig. 595) at the peak with a 
strip of adhesive-tape lapped 
over them (D, Fig. 595). 

Unless the boxes are metal 
lined, they are likely to leak after you water the planted 
seed, so it is a good idea to place beneath each a cake-tin 




Fig. 596. — Paper Pot for Seedling 
Transplantings 



H-2' 



2"-f- 2"-*j 



T 

■+■ 

4 

I s 

Fig. 597. — Pattern for 
Paper Pot 



1 
1 

» 

1 
1 

1 



SEED BOXES AND PAPER POTS 



303 



to catch drippings (Fig. 591); also, it is well to attach spool 
feet at the corners to keep the box bottoms high and dry. 

Paint the Greenhouses with a couple of coats of green 
paint, or with two coats of white paint and one coat of 
white enamel. 

Paper Pots are extensively used for seedling transplant- 
ings (Fig. 596). The seedlings are transplanted from seed- 




Fig. 599. — How 
to Make Pot out 
of Box Corners 



Fig. 598. — Pot 
Made from Card- 
board Box 




Fig. 600. — How to Cut away 
the Box Corners 



flats to these earth-filled paper pots, and then, when they 
are large enough to set outdoors, the pots are planted 
without disturbing the roots of the seedlings. 

Paper pots can be made of heavy wrapping-paper. Small 
pots may be 1% inches square, large pots 4 inches square. 
Figure 597 shows a pattern for a 2-inch pot. Cut along the 
heavy lines, fold along the dotted lines, and paste the over- 
lapping surfaces. 



3 o 4 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

Figure 598 shows 

A Pot Made From a Cardboard Box. A box will furnish 
material for two pots. Cut the box as indicated by dotted 
lines in Fig. 600, and place the corners together as shown 
in Fig. 599. Fasten by gluing strips of paper over the 




Fig. 601 Fig. 603 Fig. 602 

Figs. 601-603. — Circular Pots Made from Cereal Carton 



edges, then reinforce the corners by sewing with heavy linen 
thread. 

Circular Pots can be made from cereal cartons (Figs. 601 
and 602). One carton will produce two pots. Glue and 
stitch the cover on to the carton, then cut a pot from each 
end, as indicated in Fig. 603. 




It is necessary to protect transplantings from the sun 
until they have taken root and are able to stand the 





Fig. 606 




Gig. 604 



Fig. 605 



Figs. 604 to 606. — Three Methods of Shielding Transplantings until they 

have Taken Root. 

heat without wilting, and for early Spring transplanting 
before the season has become far enough advanced to make 
frost an impossibility, it is necessary to provide frost protec- 
tion. The protectors shown upon the following pages have 

3°5 



3° 6 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



Fig. 607. — Tin 
Can Shield and 
Forcer 



proved practical for these purposes, and you will find them 
easy to make. 

The Paper-Funnel Shield shown in Fig. 604 is so rolled 
that one side, left open, can be turned away from the sun 

to admit light and air. Make the 
funnels out of pieces of heavy wrap- 
ping-paper. 

The Flower-Pot Shield (Fig. 605) 
is commonly used for short plants, 
because flower-pots are almost 
always at hand. 

The Basket Shield shown in Fig. 
606 is a good type of sun shield 
because, while it gives protection, 
it admits lots of light and air. Of 
the three shields, the paper-funnel 
shield is the one to use if you have a great many trans- 
plantings to protect. 

fl^The Tin Can Shield and Forcer shown in Fig. 607 is useful 
not only to protect transplantings from frost and the sun, 
but also as a small cold-frame to force a plant's growth in 
the early Spring while the weather is yet cool. The sun's 

rays passing through 
the glass top of the 
forcer will carry heat 
to the plant in the 
same way that heat is 
carried to the plants 
in the cold-frame. 




Fig. 608 



Fig. 609 



TA, 




Figs. 608 to 609. — Tin Can Shield and 
Forcer in Use 



PLANT SHIELDS AND FORCERS 



3°7 



Tomato cans are of the best size for the tin can forcer, 
and 4 -by -5 inch camera plates are of the right size for the 
glass tops. If you cannot get used camera plates, any broken 
pieces of glass 
that you can find 
will do. If the can 
ends are crimped 
on, as most cans 
are now made, cut 
the ends open with 
a can opener. 
Punch a nail-hole 
in opposite sides of 
the can near one 
end, place the glass 
on the can, pass a 
a piece of wire over 
it, and stick the 
wire ends through 
the holes; twist the 
wire ends as shown 
in Fig. 607, and the 
wire will hold the 
glass in place. Nail 
the side of the can 
to a stake whittled 
to a point on its 
lower end. 




Fig. 610. — A Plant Forcer 




Fig. 611 



\* M 






i.V 



"■ — * — 4k"— -*l 
Fig. 612 



Fig. 611. — Cross-Section of Plant Forcer 
Fig. 612. — Patterns of Pieces Required 






3 o8 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

Figure 608 shows the forcer set close to the ground; Fig. 
609 shows it raised for ventilation When the nights are 
cold, spread heavy paper over the plant, then set the can 
down over this, for extra protection When the weather 
warms up, and you wish to shield the plant from the sun, 
slip a piece of paper under the glass top 

The Plant Forcer in Fig. 610 requires more time to make 
than the tin-can forcer. It has the advantage of being 
roomier. The size of glass you obtain will determine the 
size of the parts. In the model shown, I used a 6 j^-by -Sc- 
inch camera plate, and the dimensions on the pattern of 
Fig. 612 are correct for glass of this size. Go to a paint 
shop and see what you can get in small pieces of glass. 
Possibly you can get scraps that will not cost much. 

The cross-section (Fig. 611) shows how the pieces go 
together. Prepare end pieces A and front and back strips 
B by the patterns (Fig. 612), and nail them together. 
Then cut back piece C to fit, and nail it to end pieces A. 
The glass rests upon front strip B, and it is held in place 
by four nails (£), driven into the edges of the end pieces 
A so the heads overlap the glass. The screw-eye F in 
the top edge of piece C helps hold the glass in place. 

When you have completed the forcer, give it a coat of 
paint. Green is the best color for garden accessories, but 
if you have another color on hand, make it do. 





CHAPTER XXXI 
FLOWER-BOXES 




Have you ever made flower-boxes to sell? It is an 
excellent way to earn money in the Spring, for then every- 
body is planting them, and there is so much demand for 
boxes of various types that there is not much trouble in 
making sales. An energetic boy usually can dispose of all 
of the boxes that he has time to make. 

Boxes of good design and proportions are almost as 
pleasing to look upon as the plants and vines which they 
contain. They require more care in the making than the 
square-cornered grocery-box type, but the work is simple, 
and you will find a readier sale for them among garden 
lovers. 

Material for Boxes. Cypress, often spoken of as "the 
wood eternal" because it is so little subject to decay, is the 
best flower-box material obtainable. Florists use it for 
their greenhouse boxes and troughs, it is used in the con- 
struction of greenhouses, and it is extensively employed 
in every form of building for parts exposed to moisture. 
The grain of cypress is exceedingly pretty, especially when 
the wood is stained with one of the modern wood finishes. 

Finishing. There are several ways to finish the wood 
of a flower-box. You can use an oil-stain made by mixing 

309 



310 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 




oil-paint with turpentine or kerosene, or you can buy ready- 
mixed stain; you can white-enamel the wood or paint it the 

color your customer 
selects; or, if the 
wood has a pretty 
grain, like cypress, 
you can leave it in 
its natural color, and 
finish with a coat of 
white shellac and an- 
other of varnish. 

A Window or 
Porch Box. The 
long box with taper- 
ing sides shown in 
Fig. 613 is of a pleasing design for a window-sill or porch- 
rail. The cross-section of Fig. 618 shows the pattern 
for the end pieces (A), and shows the positions for the 
sides (B), and the bottom (C). Be careful to get the end 
pieces alike. Lay out one piece accurately, then use 
it for a pattern for g 

marking out the other 
piece. With the ends cut 
out, cut the side pieces and 
fasten them between the 
ends. Then cut the bot- 
tom board to fit between 
the sides. The length of 

the sides and bottom will Fig. 619. — Three Forms of Feet for Boxes 



Fig. 618. — Cross-Section of Window or Porch 
Box Shown in Fig. 613 







Fig. 613. 
Window or Porch box. 




Fig. 615.— Plant-Stand. § 



FLOWER-BOXES 



3ii 



be determined by the size of box wanted. Cut the sides 
7% inches wide. The edges of the bottom board must be 
beveled to make them fit squarely against the side pieces. 
If you will mark out the positions for the side pieces upon 
the end pieces, it will simplify the matter of assembling. 
Nail the pieces to- 
gether with finish- 
ing-nails and set 
the nail-heads be- 
low the surface. 

Feet. It not only 
adds to the appear- 
ance of a flower-box 
to provide it with 
feet, but makes pro- 
vision for a circula- 
tion of air beneath 
it, which will keep 
dry the bottom, and 
the railing or win- 
dow-sill upon which 
the box stands. The 
screw-eye foot (A, 
Fig. 619) answers 
very well; foot B 
is a rubber-tipped base knob such as is used to screw 
into baseboards for doors to strike against; and foot C 
is a spool attached by means of a long screw run 
through its center hole. If the box is to be placed upon 




Fig. 620. — Detail Showing Assembling of 
Plant-Stand Shown in Fig. 615 



3i2 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



a ledge too narrow for all four feet to stand upon, the 

feet must be omitted. 

A Plant -Tub (Fig. 614). This short box with tapering 

sides owes its substantial appearance to the wide band around 

its top. It is of a good de- 
sign for a box built for the 
top of a balustrade post. 
No dimensions have been 
shown for this box, because 
you will want to make it of 
the right size to fit the post 
it is to stand upon. Eight 
inches is deep enough. To 
get the right! taper for the 
sides, make the bottom edge 
of each side piece 2 inches 
shorter than the top edge. 
Mark out one side, saw it 
out, and use it as a pattern 
for marking 




Fig. 621. — Corner Hook and Chain 
for Hanging-Box Shown in Fig. 616 



the ends of the other side pieces. Lap the sides 
over the end pieces. When the sides and ends 
have been nailed together, cut a bottom board 
to fit between. By fastening this bottom board 
about 3^2 mcn above the bottom edges, there 
will be a good chance for water to drain from 
the box. 

Holes may be bored through the bottom, to 
facilitate drainage. Pieces of broken flower- 




Fig. 622. — How 
Chains Fasten to 

a Hook Screwed 

into Ceiling 



FLOWER-BOXES 



313 



pot placed over the holes will keep the earth from washing out. 
The Plant-Stand shown in Fig. 615 was made 29 inches 
high, or table height. If the one you build is to stand in 
front of a window, make it of about the same height as the 
window-sill. The detail drawing (Fig. 620) shows how the 
plant-stand is built with a grocery-box as a foundation. 
The pairs of strips A and B are nailed together to form the 
legs. Cut strips A 1 y 2 inches wide, strips B 2 inches wide. 
The tops of the legs are finished off with the blocks C, which 
are cut of the right size to project about V 2 inch over the 
sides of the legs; and the top edges of the box are finished 
with strips cut of the 
right length to fit 



between the corner 
blocks, and of the 
right width to pro- 
ject 3^2 inch over the 
box sides. If the box 
used for the stand is g^dS^ 
12 inches wide or 
narrower, the lower shelf can be a single board, cut the 
exact width and length to fit in the corners formed by the 
leg strips. The shelf will brace the lower ends of the legs. 
Conceal the edge of the box-bottom boards with a narrow 
strip of wood cut to fit between the corner strips. 

The Hanging -Box shown in Fig. 616 is another example 

of how a grocery box can be used advantageously in the 

construction of plant boxes. The hanging-box is made 

' by nailing a band of wooden strips around the top edge of 




314 



CARPENTRY AND MECHNICS FOR BOYS 



a box, even with the top, and another band around the 
bottom, then fitting strips between the bands, at the box 
corners. Make the bottom band project about 3^ inch 
below the box bottom. This band conceals the edges of 
the box-bottom boards, and the corner strips cover the 
edges of the box-side boards. Cut the upper and lower 
band strips out of boards %-inch thick, making the lower 
strips 2}^ inches wide, and the upper strips 3 inches wide. 
Cut the corner strips out of boards ^-inch thick, making 
one strip of each pair Y% inch narrower than the other, to 
allow for the lapping edges. Nail the corner strips together, 

then nail them to 
the box. 

Suspend the Box 
by chains attached 
to screw-hooks 
screwed into the top 
edge of the box at 
the corners (Fig. 
621), and hooked 
onto a screw -hook 
screwed into the 
porch-ceiling or wherever the box is to hang (Fig. 622). Buy 
hooks 3 inches in length, and No. 12 Iron jack-chain. The 
bright iron hooks and chain may be enameled with screen- 
wire enamel to prevent rusting. 

Metal Liners. As a grocery box is loosely made, one 
used for a hanging-box will leak more or less after each 
watering. If the position in which the box is to hang 




Fig. 624. — Cross- Section of Box Fitted with 
Metal Liner and Faucet for Drainage 



FLOWER-BOXES 



3i5 



makes this objectionable, a galvanized-iron liner like that 
shown in Fig. 623 should be provided. You can get a liner 
made at almost any hardware store. The liner should be 
just a trifle smaller than the box so that it will drop in 
without forcing, and the upper edge should be bent over, 
as shown, to form a projecting rim all around that will rest 
upon the top edge of the box (Fig. 624). 

When a box is provided with a metal liner, care must be 
taken not to pour too much water upon the soil at one time, 
else the 

Surplus Water Will Be- 
come Stagnant in the bot- 
tom of the box, and prob- 
ably result in loss of the 
plants. The nursery man 
will tell you that the proper 
way to do is to pour on 
just enough water so the 
top soil will be damp, not 
puddly. 

A Satisfactory Drain, for 
taking care of the surplus 
water in the bottom of a metal-lined flower-box, can be 
provided as shown in Fig. 624. Get a 34-inch brass air-cock 
and get a threaded piece of brass tubing to fit it. Cut the 
tubing of the right length to run through the box bottom, 
and solder it in a hole cut through the liner. Be careful 
to get the hole in the box bottom directly under the hole in 
the liner. 




Fig. 625. — Side View of Hanging- 
Basket Shown in Fig. 617 



316 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



Before Planting Metal-Lined Boxes, cover the bottom to 
a depth of i inch or so with coarse gravel or small pieces of 
crushed stone. Surplus water percolating through the 
stones will be freed of earth particles, and when drawn off 
through the faucet will be clear. This will prevent stoppage. 
The Hanging -Basket shown in Fig. 617 was designed 
for a potted fern. Omit the chain hangers, and screw four 
base-knobs into the bottom for feet, and you will have an 
excellent low pedestal box. Lengthen two opposite sides, 

and you will have a box 
suitable for a porch-rail or 
window. If plants are to 
be placed in the hanging- 
basket, pedestal box, or 
window box, without a pot, 
a moss lining must be pro- 
vided to keep earth from 
falling through the spaces 
between the side sticks. 
The moss can be procured 
from a florist if you cannot 
find it in the woods. 
By the side view of Fig. 625, and the top view of Fig. 
626, you will see that the sides of the hanging-basket are 
built log-cabin fashion. Figure 627 shows a pattern for the 
bottom, which, as you will see, is hexagonal-shaped. Cut 
the piece out of a board f/i inch thick. Probably you know 
how to mark out an inscribed hexagon by describing a circle, 
then laying off the radius dimension six times upon the cir- 




Fig. 626. — - Top View of Hanging- 
Basket Shown in Fig. 617 



FLOWER-BOXES 



3i7 



cumference, and connecting the points with straight lines. 
Figure 627 shows the method. When you have marked 
out the piece, saw it out a trifle outside of the lines, and 
finish up the edges with a plane. 

At each corner of the bottom piece, bore a hole through 
which to run the wire connecting rods (Figs. 627 and 630). 
Make the holes V^ inch or ^ 
inch in diameter, and locate 
them exactly where shown. 

The side sticks, of which 
you will need thirty-five, 
should be of the dimensions 
given in Fig. 628. If you 
can get several strips of a 
square moulding, you will 

, . •,, Fig. 627. — Pattern of 

Only have tO Saw them up Bottom for Hanging-Basket 




TI 



kjl jj 5g — -^HJH 



•ML. 



i Z3-J I 
©i': — —4 



into pieces of the right length, 
smooth up the ends and 
edges, and bore holes for the 
connecting rods. Though of 
slightly different proportions 
than those given, parting- 
strips, used for window- 
frames, will serve the pur- 
pose nicely. You can get 
them at any planing-mill. 
If you make a number of 
these boxes, it will pay you to buy these stock strips, or 
have strips ripped up and surfaced. With the strips care- 




Fig 628 



Fig. 630 



Fig. 628. — Pattern of Side 
Sticks of Hanging-Basket 

Fig. 629 

Fig. 629 and 630. — Details of 
Corner Connecting Rods 



318 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

fully marked out upon a board, there is no trick to ripping 
out enough for one or two boxes. It is best to rip long 
strips, then cut these into short lengths. 

The positions for the holes are indicated in. Fig. 628. 
Upon the care with which these holes, and the holes near the 
corners of the bottom board, are bored, depends the nicety 
with which the box fits together. Make a marker out of a 
strip of cardboard, and use this for locating each pair of 
holes. In boring the holes, be careful to bore them straight. 

Cut the six corner connecting rods out of No. 8 galvanized 
wire, of the length shown in Fig. 629. Bend one end of 
each rod into an eye. Slip a rod through each of the corner 
holes in the bottom board, then slip the side sticks over the 
wires, piling them log-cabin fashion. When six sticks have 
been stacked up on each of the six sides, bend over the upper 
end of each rod into an eye, thus binding all sticks close 
together. Attach chain hangers to four of the six rod ends. 
Number 1 2 iron jack-chain is the right kind to buy. 





CHAPTER XXXII 
GARDEN ACCESSORIES 




Lacking a sprinkling-can, one of the best substitutes 
the author knows of is a tin can with perforated bottom, 




Fig. 631. — Tin Can Garden Sprinkler 

and a stick handle fastened to the side (Fig. 631). For 
some purposes 

3!9 



3 2o CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

A Tin Can Sprinkler like this is handier than a regular 
sprinkling-can. Because it is so simple to make, every 
gardener might own several. The number, size, and 




Fig. 633 Fig. 632 
Figs. 632 and 633. — 
Dibbles 



Fig. 634. — Using a Planting Trencher 
Fig. 635. — Detail of Trencher 



location of the perforations can be regulated to suit the 
kind of spray wanted. Use the point of a nail or awl 
for making holes. Drive nails through the can into the 
stick handle. 



GARDEN ACCESSORIES 



321 



Many gardeners prefer. 

A Dibble to a hoe or rake, for making holes for large seeds, 
for planting bulbs, and for transplanting seedlings. Figure 
632 shows one easily made. Whittle a stick handle like 
that shown, and drive a 16-penny nail (a nail 33^ inches 
long) through it near the end. This is a good form of dibble 
for seed planting. 

An Umbrella-Handle 
Dibble like that shown 
in Fig. 633 is excellent 
for making holes for 
bulbs and transplant- 
ings. Cut off about 
one-half of the length 
of the rod. 

For making trenches 
preparatory to planting 
rows of seed, or trans- 
planting, 

A Planting Trencher 
like that shown in Fig. 
634 is handy. This 
requires the runner A 
(Fig. 635), 16 inches 
long, the stick handle 
B, 3 feet long, and the pair of braces C, by which the handle 
is fastened to the runner. With this little tool you can 
make trenches quickly. 

A Seed Basket, made of a fruit basket supported upon 




Fig. 636.— Seed Basket 



Figs. 637 and 
638. — Garden 
Marker 




Fig. 639. — How to 
Put Up Strings for 
Vines 




Fig. 640. — Use Clothespins 
with which to Pin Vine 
Strings to the Ground 



Fig. 641. — 
Tomato- Racks 



322 



GARDEN ACCESSORIES 



323 



the rod of an umbrella as shown in Fig. 636, holds the 
seed packages within convenient reach for planting. 
Punch a hole through the basket bottom for the rod to 
run through, and tie the basket handle to the umbrella rod 
and handle. 

Garden Markers. Clothespins are useful for pinning 
the names of seeds planted, to the tops of stakes used for 
garden markers (Fig. 



637). Cut the stake 
top thin enough for 
the clothespin to slip 
over. Tear the bot- 
tom out of the seed 
envelope, slip the 
envelope over the 
stake, and slip one 
prong of a clothespin 
down over the stake 
top (Fig. 638). 

Figure 639 shows 

How to Put Up 
Strings for Vines 
planted alongafence. 
Instead of running a separate string for each vine, the 
method illustrated, which is a saver of time, consists in 
starting where the first vine is planted, and tying the end 
of the string to a nail driven into the fence top directly over 
the vine, then running the string down to and tying to a 
stake driven into the ground beside the vine, crossing over 




Fig. 642 Fig. 644 

Figs. 642-644.— Details of Folding Tomato-Rack 



324 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

to and tying to a stake driven into the ground beside the 
next vine, running the string up to and over a nail in the 
fence top directly above the vine, over to a nail in the fence 
top directly above the next vine, down to a stake driven 
close to that vine, and continuing in this manner until a 
string has been provided for each vine. 

Figure 640 shows how clothespins can be used for pinning 
down the strings to the ground. By using these it is not 
necessary to tie the strings. 

If you will make your 

Tomato-Racks so they can be folded up for storing during 
the winter season, they will last indefinitely, and in the 
long run you will be repaid for the time you spend now in 
making them. Figure 641 shows a row of folding racks. 
Use laths for the vertical and cross strips A and B (Fig. 
642), and buy j^-inch stove-bolts for fastening them together. 
Bore holes through the strips near the ends, for the bolts 
to slip through (Fig. 643), and drive a double-pointed tack 
into the ends of crosspiece B, and another into the side edge 
of vertical pieces A. Point the lower end of strips A so 
they will push into the ground with little resistance. 

Figure 641 shows the racks in position, with string braces 
tied to the double-pointed tacks. Additional strings can 
be fastened to the racks if found necessary. 





CHAPTER XXXIII 



RACKS AND TRAYS FOR 
CANNING TIME 




Probably you do not know anything about the canning 
and drying of vegetables, but mother does, and you can 
help her to the extent of making the necessary racks and 
trays. 

For the cold-pack method of canning, the usual home- 
made equipment for sterilizing fruits and vegetables is a 
wash-boiler fitted with a wooden rack on which to stand 
the filled jars (Figs. 645 and 646). Figure 647 shows a 
detail of 

A Wash-Boiler Rack made of laths. Dimensions for 
the strips are not given on the diagram because wash-boilers 
vary in size, and you must make the rack to fit the bottom 
of the wash-boiler that it is to be used in. Make the rack 
enough shorter and narrower than the boiler so it will fit 
loosely in it. Cut strips A of equal length, also strips B. 
Cross strip A with strips B, spacing them at equal dis- 
tances apart, not to exceed 2 inches. Nail with nails long 
enough to go through the over-lapping strips and bend over. 
Cut side strips C and nail them to strips A at the ends. 
Then trim off the ends of the strips as indicated, to make 
the rack fit the round ends of the wash-boiler. 

For drying corn and sliced vegetables, 

32s 



326 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

A Rack Suspended Over a Stove (Fig. 648) is much used. 
The screened tray is easy to make. For a medium-sized 
gas-range, a tray of the dimensions shown in Fig. 649 is 
about right for use over a single burner Lap the ends of 
the side strips over the ends of the end strips. Tack screen 
wire to the bottom edges of the tray. One screw-hook in 

Fig. 646 




Fig. 645 
Figs. 645 and 646. — Wash-Boiler 
Rack for Cold-Pack Method of 
Canning 



Fig. 647. — Detail of Rack for 
Wash- Boiler 



the ceiling directly over the center of the gas-burner is 
sufficient to support the swinging tray, provided you screw 
the hook into one of the ceiling joists, and of course you must 
do that to fasten the hook securely. Screw a pair of screw- 
eyes into each end of the tray, and attach a chain to each 
screw-eye long enough to extend to the ceiling hook when 
the tray is suspended 12 inches or so above the burner. 

A Drying-Tray to Stand Upon a Stove must have metal 
legs. Figure 650 shows a tray with shelf-bracket legs, and 
Fig. 651 shows how to attach these. 

The sun-drying method of preserving vegetables is 
extensively used. Figure 652 shows 






RACKS AND TRAYS FOR CANNING TIME 327 

A Sun Dryer, consisting of two screened frames, one 
inverted over the other (Fig. 654), supported on a rack 
(Fig. 656). The vegetables to be dried are spread out 
upon the screen wire of the lower frame, and the upper frame 
covers them and protects them from flying insects. Crawl- 
ing insects can be kept away by standing the legs of the 
dryer-rack in tin cans filled with water (F, Fig. 653). 





Fig. 648. — Suspended Tray for 
Drying Vegetables 



Fig. 649. — Detail of 
Drying-Tray 



Make the pair of screened frames, first, then the rack of 
the right size to accommodate the frames. Figure 655 
shows the dimensions of side strips A and end strips B, used 
for the frames of the author's dryer shown in Fig. 652; 
and Fig. 657 gives the correct dimensions for legs strips C, 
and connecting crosspieces D and E of the rack. If you 
make the frames of different proportions than these, you can 



328 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



figure out the length dimensions for the crosspieces of the 
rack after the frames have been put together. 

Figures 653 and 656 show how the rack members are 
assembled. Set crosspieces D 4 inches below the tops of 




Fig. 651. — How the Shelf-Bracket Legs are Fastened on 

legs C, so the upper screened frame will come even with 
the tops of the legs. The frames rest upon crosspieces D, 
and crosspieces E and the upper ends of legs C hold the 
frames in place. 



Before covering the frames with screen- wire, give them 

and the rack a coat of green paint. Galvanized screen- wire 

: is better than Japanned wire for covering the frames. Two 

yards of wire 24 inches wide will be required. Stretch the 



RACKS AND TRAYS FOR CANNING TIME 



329 



Fig. 657 
30" 



Fig. 655 



IX 



25g- 



D 



38£" 



if 



K 




- 36" 




H 


a 




A. 




I 




^A 


H 


23£" 






2 1 


B 




B^^ji 






^-B 


i 



Fig. 654 





Fig. 656 



Fig. 653 



Fig. 653. — Cross-Section of Sun Dryer Shown in Fig. 652. 
Fig. 654. — Screened Frames Fig. 656. — Dryer Rack 
Fig. 655. — Frame Strips Fig. 657. — Rack Strips 



wire tight over the frames, and after tacking it in place, 
cover its edges with the narrow moulding used upon window 
and door screens. Fasten this moulding with brads. 

Instead of screening the upper frame, you can glaze it. 



33 o CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

Glass intensifies the sun's heat, and thus speeds up the 
drying process. But if you do glaze the upper sash, cut 
openings in the side edges of the frames to permit a free 
circulation of air over the vegetables. 

Besides serving as a dryer, this apparatus can be used 
in the Fall as 
A Rack for Ripening Tomatoes that have been picked green 
to save them from frost. 

Making Racks and Trays to Sell. If you have time and 
want to earn money, the author suggests that you canvas 
among gardeners of your community for orders for dryers. 
If you own a wagon, you can take your dryer with you as a 
sample; or, if you do not want to bother doing this, you can 
make a miniature model of a size handy to carry under 
your arm. 







Fig. 658. — A Concrete Lawn-Roller (See Chapter 34). 





CHAPTER XXXIV 
A LAWN ROLLER 




If you will take the time to make a concrete lawn-roller 
like that shown in the photograph of Fig. 658, you will find 
no end of employment next spring, and in following springs. 
Owners of well-kept lawns have them gone over to roll out 
uneven places, caused by the action of frost, and newly 
planted lawns must be rolled, also, to make the surface level 
and compact. If you will happen round at the right time, 
you will probably be able to land the jobs. Take your chum 
into partnership. You will be able to cover twice as much 
territory in soliciting work, and you will need his additional 
fraction of horse-power to add to your own to operate the 
roller. 

The Material Required will be as follows: One 2-foot 
length of 12-inch tile sewer-pipe {A, Fig. 659), one piece of 
1 34-inch iron pipe 26 inches long (B), two pieces of 24-inch 
iron pipe 27 3^2 inches long (C), two pieces of %-inch. iron 
pipe 4 feet 6 inches long (D), two go-degree elbows (E), two 
street elbows (F) and two unions for %-inch pipe (G). Pipe is 
known by its inside diameter. Three-quarter-inch pipe, 
is % inch in diameter, inside, 1 inch in diameter, out- 
side. The ends of lengths of pipe C and D must be threaded. 

331 



332 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



You can get them cut and threaded at any plumbing shop, 
and you can procure the fittings there. 

For the concrete mixture for the tile pipe, you will require 
about one wheelbarrow of crushed stone (3^-inch or %-inch), 
three-quarters of a wheelbarrow of torpedo sand, and one- 
quarter sack of Portland cement. You can procure this 
material from a builder in your vicinity. 




„rD 



■£ 



B 



4—90° ELBOW 



Union - 




'Street- ELbow 
Fig. 659. — Detail of Parts Required for Lawn-Roller 



In addition to the above, you will need some boards out 
of which to make centers for centering iron pipe B within 
tile pipe A, and for making a concrete mixing-platform. 

Figure 659 shows a detail of all of the parts required for 
the roller. Figure 660 shows the tile pipe with the pipe 
axle-casing centered ready for pouring the concrete, and 
Fig. 661 shows 

The Centering Platform. Making the platform is the 
first operation. Fasten together several boards with the 
pair of battens H, placing the battens so they will fit close 
against the sides of the small end of the tile pipe when the 
pipe is stood upon the boards. Nail the pair of blocks / 



A LAWN ROLLER 



333 




to the platform so they will fit close against the sides of the 
pipe, also. 

The next thing to do is 

To Locate the Center for the Axle, upon the platform, 
between battens H and blocks /. This must be the exact 
center, else your roller axle will be off center and your roller 
will not run evenly. The center can be located by a pair 
of dividers, ruler, or piece of string. When you are abso- 
lutely certain that you have located the center correctly, 
cut a hole 1 34-inch in diameter for the end of iron pipe 
B (Fig. 664) to fit in. If you haven't an expansive-bit, 
bore several small holes 
and trim up to the 
larger diameter with a 
chisel. 

The Center of the 
Flange End of the tile 
pipe is located by 
means of the crossed 
strips / and K (Fig. 
660). Cut these strips 
to fit inside of the tile 
pipe at the center of 
the end, of the right 
length to rest upon 
the inside shoulder of 
the flange. Cut a 
i>4-inch hole, through the exact center of each strip, then 
halve the' two pieces together in the manner shown in Figs. 
662 and 663. 



A^Ii 




Fig. 660. — Tile Pipe with Pipe Axle-Casing 
Centered Ready for Pouring the Concrete 



334 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



With the tile pipe placed in position, and the iron pipe 
axle-casing B fitted in the centering holes, all will be ready 
for pouring the concrete. 

The Concrete Mixture should be made in the proportions 
of i part cement, 3 parts sand, and 4 parts stone. You can 
use a pail for measuring. Mix the sand and cement together, 
first, by shoveling the two over and over. Then add the 
stone and mix thoroughly, then add enough water to make 
a fairly sloppy mixture that will pour readily. 

Pouring the Concrete. Pour the concrete mixture into 
the tile pipe, be- Fig. 663 Fig. 664 

tween strips J and 
K, and with a 
stick tamp the ma- 
terial down solid. 
Be careful to have 
all spaces between 
the stone particles 
filled; also to get 
the sand and 
cement between 
the stone and the Fig. 661 
sides of the tile . m 
pipe. Fill the tile 
pipe to the level of 

the under side of Fig. 661. — Detail of Centering Platform 

Figs. 662 and 663. — Detail of End Strips for Cen- 
Stnps J and K. tering Axle-Casing End 

mi t •*.• * c* j. F IG - 664. — Pipe Axle-Casing 

The Initial Set 
of cement usually occurs within an hour's time after pour- 




1 f==htf=\ 



Fig. 662 



J 



A LAWN ROLLER 335 

ing; but allow the concrete- filled pipe to stand for several 
days before disturbing it. 

Removing the Tile Pipe. The tile pipe may be removed 
by cracking it off, but the author suggests that you leave 
it on, as it makes the roller larger in diameter, and will give 
it a smooth surface that will last a long time. When the 
tile does crack, you can break it off. The flange must be 
removed, of course, as soon as you are ready to complete 
the roller. This can be broken off, and the end chipped off 
level with the concrete, by the careful use of a cold-chisel. 

The Iron Pipe Handle Frame is shown in detail in Fig. 
659. In this detail you will find the relative positions for 
the pieces of pipe, and for the fittings included in the material 
list. Screw elbows E onto the ends of one of the pieces 
of pipe C; slip the other length of pipe C through pipe B, 
and screw street elbows F onto its ends. Screw pieces of 
pipe D into elbows £, and screw unions G onto their ends 
and onto elbows F. 

Paint the Handle Frame to keep the iron pipe from 
rusting. 





CHAPTER XXXV 
BIRD HOUSES 




Nature provided our native birds to keep the proper 
balance in insect life, but, because we have neglected to 
afford necessary protection, the birds have decreased and 
insects have increased to an alarming extent. It is our 
patriotic duty, therefore, to work for a re-establishment of 
nature's balance, and one way to aid in bringing this about 
is to give the birds all possible protection during the nesting 
season, by providing houses for those that nest in houses, 
and by making war upon bird enemies. 

Bird-House Campaigns. The bird-house campaign has 
developed into a national movement, so much so, in fact, 
that the school which cannot boast of bird-house building 
activities is reckoned unprogressive. In a recent campaign 
in Pittsburgh, the boys of the public schools built more than 
6,000 bird houses. An exhibit of some of the houses is 
shown in the photograph of Fig. 665. It is estimated that 
more than 15,000 houses were made in one year by the boys 
of Allegheny County, Pennsylvania; in St. Paul, nearly 
4,000 houses were entered in a contest held by the Board of 
Education; in Seattle, enough houses were disposed of by 



336 




p a 



o 



w 


M 






a 


£ 






t> 


H 






M S 







BIRD HOUSES 337 

one school to make possible the purchase of a first-class 
printing outfit and many other good records have come to 
the author from schools, communities, and individuals to 
whom his bird-house plans have been supplied. 

If your community has not had a bird-house building 
contest, write to the editor of your newspaper and ask him 
to start a campaign. He will recognize in 
this feature material that will interest a large 
percentage of readers, and, if his space will 
permit, he may comply with your request. 
Public-spirited business men are generally „ 

r ° J Fig. 666. — League 

glad to donate prizes for the best houses Button 
entered in contests, and of course prizes stimulate interest, 
for what boy will not "work his head off" to win a prize? 

Bird-house building is 

A Good All -the -Year Around Activity. It is never too 
late or too early to put out houses. If too late for the 
nesting season, the houses at least improve the appearance 
of the home grounds. Weathering not only makes the 
houses fit in better with the surroundings, but also renders 
them more acceptable next season to the birds. 

Besides building bird-houses yourself, you can serve the 
birds by encouraging others to do likewise. In fact, you 
can get other boys to work with you. For the purpose of 
enlisting every bird-lover in the work, the author founded 

The American Bird-House League,* and the league's 
slogan "A home for every native house-nesting bird" gives 

*It you or your teacher would be interested in full particulars concerning the 
American Bird-House League, a stamp sent to A. Neel> Hall, Elmhurst, Illinois, 
will bring you a copy of "Handicraft News," which tells all about it. 



338 



CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



promise of a goal not beyond the possibility of attainment, 
for already it has a widespread membership covering nearly 
every section of the United States and Canada. 

Work To Be Proud Of. When you have enlisted your 
services in the national bird conservation movement, by 
building bird-houses 
and encouraging 
others to build them, 
think of your pride 
when you walk about 
town after your 



Praia Tta Ento 






Feathered Friends 

Bird House Factory 



Dcf fienoct, Iow% 



houses have been 
erected, and point 
them out every- 
where. Father will 
be mighty proud of 
his boy craftsman, 
your friends will 
envy you, and you 
will gain a reputa- 
tion as an expert 
bird-house builder. 
It's lots of fun 

u m j • i_ • j i Fig. 667. — Print your Stationery Like This 

building bird-houses 

and it's lots of fun selling them because they sell readily 

among bird-lovers. You can establish 

A Boy's Bird -House Factory with the certainty of enjoying 
the work and of earning lots of money, as others among the 
author's readers have done. The following two letters from 




BIRD HOUSES 339 

boys who have followed the author's suggestions are con- 
vincing: 
Clessand V. Mulholland of Birmingham, Michigan, writes: 

"I sold about forty houses last spring from thirty cents up, and 
would have sold more only I sprained my ankle. We sold about 
twenty-three of one model at fifty cents, and it cost about two cents 
to make. Your plans helped us immensely. We made the large 
twenty-eight-room martin house and this caused considerable atten- 
tion around town. We won three first prizes and two second prizes 
in contests. As to selling bird houses, it was easy. The Woman's 
Club helped push our business along. We have planned next spring's 
campaign, and have use of a prominent store window for our display. 
We are making posters telling how much good the birds do. People 
are always ready to buy as they know they are helping the birds as 
well as us." 

Vernon Hoi, and his brother Harold, proprietors of 
"Feathered Friends' Bird-House Factory, Des Moines, 
Iowa," report: 

"We have had good success selling our houses at prices from 50 
cents to $1.50, mostly wren houses. We did not get started until 
late last year, so we are going to go after business right this year, as 
we know there is big money in it. We are getting out a catalog of 
bird houses, also circulars and post cards and personal letters, and we 
will make a personal canvas of each house. The daily papers have 
written us up and helped us wonderfully." 

Vernon and Harold own a printing-press, and their 
stationery, shown in Fig. 667, is a sample of the business-like 
manner in which they are handling their bird-house pro- 
position. 



34Q CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

Among the many requests which the author receives from 
readers for bird-house plans and building information, are 
those for 

The Right Dimensions for Houses. It is necessary to 
know these, of course, before starting a house, because the 
proportions will vary for different species. Little fellows 
like the house-wren prefer small houses, and the doorway 
should be about the size of a quarter. Therefore, when 
planning a wren home, don't consider a 20-room palace, 
such as you would provide for martins; and don't make a 
larger doorway than the size mentioned above, because it 
will admit the English sparrow. 

The Height Above Ground to Place the Houses is also of 
great importance. A wren, for example, prefers a house 
placed between 6 and 10 feet above the ground, while a 
martin's house must have a height of from 15 to 20 feet. 

The United States Department of Agriculture has issued 

A Chart of Correct Dimensions for houses to accommodate 
every bird known to accept house nesting places, compiled 
from data supplied by our best-informed naturalists, and 
this chart is presented in Fig. 668 so that you will know 
exactly what dimensions to use for the species of birds you 
wish to house. 

Materials for Bird-House Building can be found in every 
household. Tomato cans, apple and sugar barrels, fish-kegs, 
nail-kegs and white-lead kegs, ! cheese-boxes, butter- firkins, 
wooden pails, flower-pots, and small boxes such as soap and 
starch come in, will furnish all the material necessary for 
building many kinds of houses. You will find plans in 



BIRD HOUSES 



34i 



Dimensions of Nesting-boxes for Various Species of 

Birds 
(From Farmers' Bulletin 609) 



Species. 



Floor 


Depth 


Entrance 


Diam. 


of 


of 


above 


of 


cavity. 


cavity. 


floor. 


entrance. 


Inches. 


Inches. 


Inches. 


Inches. 


5 by 5 


8 


6 


m 


6 by 8 


8 


C 1 ) 


C 1 ) 


4 by 4 


8 to 10 


8 


m 


4 by 4 


8 to 10 


8 


1M 


4 by 4 


8 to 10 


8 


m 


4by 4 


6 to 8 


lto 6 


A 


4 by 4 


6 to 8 


lto 6 


1 


4 by 4 


6 to 8 


lto 6 


m 


6 by 6 


6 


1 


3 


5 by 5 


6 


lto 6 


m 


5 by 5 


6 


1 to 6 


m 


6 by 6 


6 


C 1 ) 


i 1 ) 


6 by 6 


6 


1 


2 l A 


6by 6 


6 


( 2 ) 


( 2 ) 


6 by 6 


6 


4 


2 


6 by 6 


6 


C 1 ) 


C 1 ) 


6 by 6 


8 to 10 


8 


2 


7 by 7 


16 to 18 


16 


2V2 


6 by 6 


12 to 15 


12 


2 


6 by 6 


12 to 15 


12 


2 


6 by 6 


12 to 15 


12 


m 


4 by 4 


8 to 10 


8 


1M 


8 by 8 


12 to 15 


12 


3 


8 by 8 


12 to 15 


12 


3 


6 by 6 


10 to 12 


10 


2V 2 


10 by 18 


15 to 18 


4 


6 


10 by 18 


10 to 15 


3 


6 



Height 

above 

ground. 



Bluebird 

Robin 

Chickadee 

Tufted titmouse 

White-breasted nuthatch 

House wren 

Bewick wren 

Carolina wren 

Dipper 

Violet-green swallow . . . 

Tree swallow 

Barn swallow 

Martin 

Song sparrow 

House finch 

Phoebe 

Crested flycatcher 

Flicker 

Red-headed woodpecker 
Golden-fronted woodpecker 
Hairy woodpecker . . 
Downy woodpecker . 

Screech owl 

Sparrow hawk 

Saw-whet owl 

Barn owl 

Wood duck 



Feet. 

5 to 10 

6 to 15 
6 to 15 
6 to 15 

12 to 20 

6 to 10 

6 to 10 

6 to 10 

lto 3 

10 to 15 

10 to 15 

8 to 12 

15 to 20 

lto 3 

8 to 12 

8 to 12 

8 to 20 

6 to 20 

12 to 20 

12 to 20 

12 to 20 

6 to 20 

10 to 30 

10 to 30 

12 to 20 

12 to 18 

4 to 20 



1 One or more sides open. 2 All sides open. 

Fig. 668. — To Win the Birds to your Houses Follow the Above Dimension 



342 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

Handicraft for Handy Boys for houses made of the above 
materials, and you will find other plans that admit their use, 
in the chapters following this one. 

Finishing. The usual method of finishing bird-houses 
is with a wood-stain. You can use a ready-made shingle 
stain, or you can make up your own stain by mixing oil paint 
with turpentine or kerosene. Green and brown are the 
colors generally used. Some people prefer to have the 
houses painted white. If you finish the houses with paint, 
use two coats. Give the inside one coat of stain or paint 
as a wood preservative. Putty nail-holes and cracks to 
keep out the rain. 





=r~r '._ 



CHAPTER XXXVI 
WREN HOUSES 




Wrens raise two broods each year, and for each brood 
an apartment is required, because wrens do not use the same 
nest twice. In fact, the second nest is begun before the 




FlG. 673. — Cross-Section of Wren House Shown in Fig. 669 

young birds of the first brood are ready to fly. If you build 
one-compartment houses, you must provide two houses for 
each pair of birds, if you wish to keep them with you during 
the entire nesting season. Wren houses are often built 
with several compartments, but not more than one family 
at a time will take up quarters there because wrens are 

343 



344 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

quarrelsome and do not colonize as martins do. The only- 
advantage of the house with several compartments is that 
it allows the birds a choice of quarters, and it provides for 
their two broods. 



I 


- 5"- 


H 


c 


D 


c 


MFH 


-2"H 


H£»i 




8i" 

Fig. 674. — Details of Parts of Wren House Shown in Fig. 669 



In the table of dimensions shown in Fig. 668, you will see 
that the house wren builds its nest usually at a height of 
between 6 and 10 feet. Bear this in mind when putting 
up wren houses. Also, place the houses so that the opening 
faces the East, as that seems to be the preferred exposure. 



NHHfi 



ra 




Pig. 672. 
Robin Shelter No. 2 



Fig. 670. 
Wren House No. 2. 



Fig. 669. 

Wren House 

No. 1. 




Fig. 671. — Robin Shelter No. 1. 



Fi^. 671 — Wren House No. 3. 



WREN HOUSES 



345 



Make the opening H inch in diameter. This is plenty 
large enough, and will keep out the English sparrow. Such 
details as these may seem trivial to you, but they are 
important enough to spell failure for the boy who neglects 
to consider them. 

Wren House No. 1, shown in Fig. 669, is to be suspended 
from a tree limb. Figure 673 shows a cross-section, and 
Fig. 674 shows dimensions for the parts required. Box 
boards 3^ inch thick are good enough working material. 
Bore the doorway where located in front piece A, and bore 
a 34-inch hole below it for the perch-stick. The rear wall 
is of the same size as 
front A ; side B is of 
the same size, also. 
Side CD is 3^ inch 
shorter than B, be- 
cause B laps over its 
edge; it is sawed into 
three parts, the outer 
pieces ( C) to be nailed 
in place, the cen- 
ter piece (D) to be 
slipped between and 







€ 



Fig. 675. 



— Cross-Section of Wren House 
Shown in Fig. 670 



held at the top by a 
block (G, Fig. 673), 
and at the bottom by a button ( H) made of a scrap of tin. 
Roof board F is the same as board E (Fig. 674), but is y 2 
inch narrower to allow for the lapping edge of board E. . 
Nail the parts together with i-inch finishing-nails. Use 




Fig. 676. — Details of Parts for Wren 
House Shown in Fig. 670 

346 



Fig. 677. — Details of Parts of 
Wren House Shown in Fig. 671 



WREN HOUSES 347 

heavy wire for a hanger, and run it through holes bored 
through the house ends just below the roof. Make the 
holes large enough to serve as ventilators. 

Wren House No. 2 (Fig. 670) is shown in cross-section 
in Fig. 675, and Fig. 676 shows dimensions for the parts. 
Bevel the top edge of front piece A, as shown, so the roof 
will fit it squarely, bore a ^-inch doorway in the position 
indicated, and bore a hole below it for the perch-stick. 

Assemble the pieces as shown in Figs. 670 and 675. 
Hinge back E to the edge of roof board D, to give access 
for cleaning the house. It is not necessary to provide a 
fastener for the hinged back, because when the house is hung 
upon a tree trunk by passing wires through holes bored 
through sides B, as indicated in Fig. 675, running these 
around the tree, and fastening them, the back cannot open. 

Wren House No. 3 (Fig. 671) is made of a tomato can 
(A, Fig. 677), a tin funnel 53^ inches in diameter (B), a 
wooden framework made of three strips (C and D) and two 
dowel-sticks (£), and a hanger stick and screw-eye (F). 

Sticks D provide a means for fastening the funnel roof. 
Bevel their tops to correspond with the pitch of the funnel, 
and punch a pair of holes through the funnel, through which 
to drive screws into the sticks. Bore two ^-inch holes 
through stick C, for perch sticks E. Cut hanger peg F 
to fit the funnel spout, drive a screw-eye into its top, and 
fasten the peg with a brad driven through the spout. 

Finish the Wren Houses as described in Chapter 35. 





CHAPTER XXXVII 
ROBIN SHELTERS 




Robins build their nests on partially sheltered ledges, 
as well as in trees and shrubbery. They do not take to 
inclosed houses. You must build nesting places for them, 
therefore, exposed upon two or more sides, of the type 
shown in the photographs of Figs. 671 and 672 (Chapter 
36). They will readily accept these shelters, placed in 
secluded locations in the garden, or strapped to tree trunks, 
or fastened to the outside walls of buildings. Robins nest 
at heights of 6 to 15 feet, but it is advisable to place shelters 
at the latter rather than the former height, because it makes 
the nests less accessible to four-footed enemies. 

Robin Shelter No. 1 (Fig. 671) requires a tin pan that 
measures 83^ inches across the rim. If you cannot find 
a worn-out pan at home, probably you can get one from a 
neighbor. The pan may be a trifle larger than this, but 
you will have to increase the size of ""he roof board ac- 
cordingly (A, Fig. 679). 

Figure 678 shows a cross-section of the shelter, and Fig. 
679 shows a top view. Mark out top board A by the pattern 
of Fig. 680, saw off the corners as indicated, and plane up 
the edges. Bore a ^-inch hole through the center of five 

348 



ROBIN SHELTERS 



349 



adjacent edges, in which to 
drive perch-sticks E (Fig. c 
679). Prepare three sup- 
ports B by the pattern of 
Fig. 680, cut off the lower 
corners as indicated,and cut 
a groove from side to side 
4 inches below the top, 
parallel to the top. Cut 
the sides of the groove with 
a saw, and split out the 
wood between with a chisel. 
The rim of the tin pan is 
to fit in the grooves. Bore 
a hole near the lower end 
of the side supports to 
run perch-stick F through 
(Fig. 678). 

Figure 679 indicates the 
positions for supports B; 
the distance apart to place 
them will be determined 
by the diameter of the 
pan. Block C (Fig. 678) 
should be of the thickness 
of the projection on the 
back edge of roof A. It 
blocks out the rear sup- 
port to make the shelter 



^3«te^ |p 




Fig. 678. — Cross-Section of Robin 
Shelter No. 1, Shown in Fig. 671 
(Chapter 36) 




Fig. 679. —Top View of Robin Shelter 
No. 1, Shown in Fig. 671 (Chapter 36) 



350 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 
I*— -II"— --M k—3* 





Fig. 680. — Details of Parts of Robin 
Shelter No. 1, Shown in Fig. 671 (Chapter 36) 



fit squarely upon the tree or wall you hang it upon. Cut 
perch-stick F io inches long. 

Paint the tin pan with two coats of paint, to keep it from 
rusting. The woodwork can be 
finished as suggested in Chap- 
ter 35. When the painted 
pan is dry, fasten it to the 
rear support with a screw 
driven through a hole pierced 
just below the rim (Fig. 678). 
Punch several holes through the 
pan bottom, for rain- water drains. 

Robin Shelter No. 2 (Fig. 672) 
may be made of grocery-box . fPrtK;n 

J . . Fig. 681. — Cross-Section of Robin 

boards. Material f-g inch thick Shelter No. 2, Shown in Fig. 672 

(Chapter 36) 




ROBIN SHELTERS 



351 



J -7" J 




^ 


f"H 


- +4"- 


— 4 


I 

CD 

1 








c 










9" - 




,T 

m\rf 
<\J 

1_ 


* 






D 






Fig. 682. — Details of Parts for Robin Shelter 
No. 2, Shown in Fig. 672 (Chapter 36) 



Fig. 683. — How to Cut 
the Two Side Pieces 
at One Time 



was used in the model shown in the" photograph, and the 
dimensions for the parts required, given in Fig. 682, allow for 
material of this thickness. The cross-section of Fig. 681 
shows how the parts fit together. 

Nail together, temporarily, the two boards out of which 
side pieces A are to be cut, lay out the outline upon one 
board, cut out the two pieces at one time (Fig. 683), and 
then separate them. A hand bracket-saw (Fig. 18, Chapter 
2), or a coping-saw (Fig. 19), is best for cutting the center 
circular opening. The small hole shown in the upper right- 



352 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

hand corner of the side pieces is provided to run a wire 
through for hanging up the house. The holes in the bottom 
board C (Fig. 682) are drain holes. 

Having cut the parts to the given sizes, and planed them 
smooth, you will have no difficulty in assembling them, with 
Figs. 672 and 681 before you to follow. 





CHAPTER XXXVIII 
WOODPECKER HOUSES 




5 Houses for woodpeckers must be made with deep cavities 
like the hollowed tree-trunks in which they nest. The 
dimensions will vary for different members of the wood- 
pecker family. Little downy woodpecker requires a cavity 
4 inches square at the bottom, extending about 8 inches 
below the doorway. The doorway must be j% inches in 
diameter. The hairy woodpecker's house should have a 
cavity extending 12 to 15 inches below the doorway, measur- 
ing 6 inches square at the bottom, and a doorway 1 3^ inches 
in diameter. The red-headed woodpecker requires the same 
size cavity as the hairy woodpecker, but an entrance 2 inches 
in diameter. The flicker's house should have a cavity 
extending between 16 and 18 inches below the doorway, 
and a doorway 2^ inches in diameter. You will find all 
of the necessary dimensions given in the "List of Dimen- 
sions" of Fig. 668, Chapter 35. 

The houses in the photographs of Figs. 684 and 685 are 
designed for flickers. You can reduce the dimensions given, 
to suit other species of woodpeckers. 

Figure 687 shows a detail of the framework of 
Woodpecker House No. 1 (Fig. 684). First prepare 

353 



354 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



top and bottom pieces A by the pattern in Fig. 688. It will 
simplify matters to nail two pieces of ^s-inch board together, 
mark out the outline upon one board, and cut out the two 
pieces at one time. A hand bracket-saw or coping saw 
can be used for sawing out the curved ends, and notching 
them. Make connecting strips B square, of the dimensions 
given in Fig. 688. Fasten 



them in the notches in top 
and bottom pieces A, as 
shown. 

The curved front of tht 
house is inclosed with tin. 
The sides of five tomato 
cans, with edges lapped % 
inch, will do. Tack the tin to 
strips B with carpet tacks. 

Prepare side pieces C 
(Fig. 687) after the front 
has been inclosed. In one 
piece cut the doorway in 
the position shown in Fig. 
688. Cut roof board D 
(Fig. 687) by the pattern in 
Fig. 688, and nail it to top 




Fig. 687. — Detail of Framework of 
Woodpecker House No. 1, Shown 
in Fig. 684 



piece A with equal projections at the sides, and a rear pro- 
jection to cover back board E. Prepare back board E 
by the pattern in Fig. 688, and hinge it to the rear edge of 
roof piece D with a pair of hinges. 
Figures 689 and 690 show details of the perches. Sticks 



^ma*BmaKm^mnsm 



Fig. 686.— Bluebird House. 






/ 




Fig. 684. — Woodpecker House 
No. 1. 






No. 685. — Woodpecker House 
No. 2. 



Fig. 690 




k-er— I 



Fig. 688. — Detail of Parts for the Wood- 
pecker House No. 1, Shown in Fig. 684 






Fig. 689 




Figs. 689 and 690 
Details of Perch 



Fig. 691. — Cross-Section of Woodpecker 
House No. 2, Shown in Fig. 685 




355 



356 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



F and / are -Hs-inch dowel-sticks. Cut blocks G and H 
of the dimensions given in Fig. 690. Bore a hole in bottom 
piece A to receive stick F, and nail through G into A. 



~YT 




Fig. 692.— Detail of Parts of Woodpecker 
House No. 2, Shown in Fig. 685. 

Woodpecker House No. 2 (Fig. 685) is shown in cross- 
section in Fig. 691, with all parts lettered in a manner cor- 



WOODPECKER HOUSES 357 

responding to that used on the patterns in Fig. 692. Front 
and back boards A may be made of J^-inch stuff, sides B, 
roof boards C, floor D, and blocks F and G, should be cut 
out of ^-inch stuff. Cut the main parts before starting to 
Fig. 695 assemble. First, nail the four sides 
together, then add the roof. Roof 
boards C must be mitered, or one 
piece must be lapped over the other, 
at the ridge. Cover the joint with 
a strip of tin. Fasten floor D be- 
tween the sides with screws, so it 
may be removed at house-cleaning 
time. 
Fig. 694 Fig. 693 There are six brackets F to sup- 

Fig. 693.- Detail of Bracket P ort boards E(Fig. 691). The 

for Woodpecker House No. 2 positions for them are shown in 

Fig. 694 and 695. — Details tl. . . 

of Knob for Base rig. 685 and a pattern is shown 

in Fig. 693. The knob on the under 
side of the base, made up of spools H and the block G 
(Figs. 694 and 695,) is held by nail / driven through the 
center into base D (Fig. 691). [Miter shelf boards E at the 
corners. Add screw-eyes for hangers, then the house will 
be ready for finishing with stain or paint. 






CHAPTER XXXIX 
A BLUEBIRD HOUSE 




Bluebirds require houses a little larger than the wrens, 
with larger doorways. The floor space should be at least 
5 inches square, the doorway i y% inches in diameter. The 
height to place the house above the ground is from 5 to 10 
feet. Comply with these requirements, see that the house 
is not disturbed by cats and other unwelcome intruders, 
and it is almost certain that Mr. and Mrs. Bluebird will be 
perfectly contented with their new quarters, and, with good 
fortune, will raise their customary two broods. 

Bluebird houses can either be hung from a tree limb, or 
be supported upon a pole. Figure 686 (Chapter 38) 
shows a hanging bluebird house, and Fig. 696 shows the 
same house mounted upon an iron-pipe support. If you 
hang the house, fasten it close up to a tree limb so that it 
will not swing much, for a swinging house does not strike 
the fancy of the average pair of bluebirds. The house 
mounted upon a pole seems to be preferred. 

The two-compartment bluebird house shown in the illus- 
trations makes an attractive little structure for the garden 
or lawn, and it is simple to build. 



358 



A BLUEBIRD HOUSE 



359 



In the cross-section of Fig. 697, which is a cross-section of 
The Hanging-House, each piece is lettered, and in Fig. 
698 you will find patterns of all the parts, similarly lettered. 
Walls A and center partition E should be cut out of material 
yi inch thick, the other pieces may be cut out of box boards 
H inch thick. Prepare walls A first. If you will draw 
a center-line, then upon one side of this line draw one- 
half of the piece, you can take a piece of thin paper, 




Fig. 696. 



Bluebird House Supported on 
Iron Pipe 



make a tracing of the half, and transfer it to the other side 
of the center-line to complete the piece. By doing this 
you will find it easy to get both sides alike. Fasten together 
two pieces of board with several nails driven part way in, 
draw the outline of the wall upon one board, and saw out 
the two pieces at one time. Both pieces will then be alike. 



wmmammimmmm!msmfm^Bmme^^^mii^^^B^^^^^sss=BSB^^^^^^m^^^^^^^^^^^~^^^^^^^^^^^———^^^^^^^mii^ii^gQ 



360 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

Before separating the 'cut-out pieces, plane up their edges. 
With walls A prepared, cut out center partition B, walls 
C, roof moulding D, roof boards E, ridge-piece F} and 
floor G. 

The Doorways. If you haven't an expansive-bit that 
can be adjusted to cut holes 1 1 / 2 inches in diameter, for 
the doorways, bore several small holes in walls C, and 
cut out the wood between them to make i^-inch open- 
ings. 

The tops of walls C must be bevelled to correspond with 
the pitch of the roof, as must also the tops of moulding 
strips D. Ridge-piece F must be grooved to fit over the 
roof ridge, as indicated in Figs. 697 and 698. 

In Assembling the House, first fasten partition B 
between walls A, then nail moulding strips D to walls C, 
and fasten walls C between walls A, close up against strips 
D. tCare must be taken to get walls A exactly opposite, 
else the entire structure will be lopsided. Next, fasten 
roof boards E in place, being careful to get the end pro- 
jections equal. With the roof nailed on, fasten ridge-piece 
F to it. 

The Floor is Made Removable so that the compartments 
will be accessible for the annual house-cleaning. The floor 
board (G, Fig. 697) slides in between walls A, above perch- 
sticks H, and is held in position by nine wooden wedges 
(K, Fig. 697) wedged in between it and the perch-sticks. 
Bore ^-mdi holes through walls A, about % inch below 
the floor, to receive 

The Perch-Sticks H. Dowel-sticks may be used. The 



A BLUEBIRD HOUSE 



361 



bottom perch-stick H runs through a pair of blocks / cut 
to the dimensions shown in Fig. 698 and hangers J 
(Fig. 698) run into holes bored through the corners of blocks 
/, and into holes bored in the center of the bottom edge of 
walls A (Fig. 697). Fasten the pieces with brads. 




Fig. 697. — Cross-Section of Hanging Bluebird 
House Shown in Fig. 686. (Chapter 38) 



The Bluebird House on a Pole, shown in Fig. 696, is 
built in the same way as the hanging-house, up to the point 
of attaching the perch-sticks. The center perch-stick H 
(Fig. 697) is omitted, also the perch-stick suspended beneath 
it. These must be left off to make room for 

The Iron-Pipe Support (Fig. 699).. Get a piece of i-inch 
or 134-inch iron pipe 10 or 12 feet in length, and have a 




6" H Hs- 



Fig. 698.— Details of Parts for Bluebird House Shown in Fig. 686 

(Chapter 38). 



A BLUEBIRD HOUSE 



363 



plumber thread one end of it (M, Fig. 700). Also get a 
threaded floor-flange (N, Fig. 700) to fit the pipe. Cut a 
piece of pi-inch, board to fit against the under side of the 

floor of the house 
(L, Fig. 699), and 
fasten it to the floor, 
then screw the floor- 
flange to the board, 
in the right place to 
make it come exactly 
under the center of 
the house; and screw 
the end of the pipe 
into the flange (Fig. 
701). 

In a clay soil the 
pipe support will 
stand erect if driven 
several feet into it, 
but in a sandy soil it will be necessary to run some wire 
stays from the top of the pipe down to stakes driven into 
the ground several feet away from the base of the pipe. 
A Permanent Way of Erecting the Pipe, is to set it in a 
hole and then to fill the hole with concrete^ 




Fig. 699. 



Fig. 700 



Fig. 701 

Fig. 699. — Cross-Section of Bluebird House 
Supported on Iron Pipe 
Figs. 700 and 701. — Details of Iron Pipe 
Support 






CHAPTER XL 
A MARTIN HOUSE 



Martins are very sociable birds, and prefer to nest in 
colonies. They are not content with one or two com- 
partment houses if larger houses are obtainable. A thirty- 
room house like that shown in Fig. 702 is none too large. 
This house has been designed so as to be of the simplest 
possible construction. The floors and roof are built in 
sections (Fig. 703), so the house can be erected easily, and 
so it may be taken apart for cleaning. 

Building Material. In building a house of the proportions 
of the martin house, where there are so many small parts 
exposed to the weather, it is worth while to buy good 
lumber. The best wood for the work is cypress, and the 
best thickness to use is ^-inch stuff. Thicker stock will do, 
but it will make a heavier house, and that means more 
to lift when erecting it. 

The author's martin house, from which the drawings 
have been made, measures 24 inches wide, 30 inches long, 
and 35 inches high. First, build 

The First Story Frame out of boards 4 inches wide (A 
and B, Fig. 703), then the second story frame out of 8-inch 
boards (C and D, Fig. 703), and then the third story frame 

364 



A MARTIN HOUSE 



365 



out of 8-inch boards {E and F, Fig. 703). Cut boards A, 

C, and £ 29 inches long, and boards B, D, and F 24 inches 

long. 

"*\Cut the Doorways before nailing the frames together. 




Fig. 702. — A Thirty-Room Martin House 

Mark off the positions for the partitions, which must 
divide the frame into nine compartments of equal size 
(Fig. 703), and then locate the doorways opposite the 
centers of the compartments. There will be one round 
doorway in boards A, and three in boards B, 2% inches 



366 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

in diameter. Unless you own an expansive-bit which can 
be set to bore holes 2^2 inches in diameter, describe the 
circles with a pencil-compass, bore several holes inside of 
each circle, and cut out the wood between the circles, and 
trim up the edges, with a chisel. 

There is one square doorway in boards C and E, and three 
in boards D and F, of the second and third story frames, 
each 2 inches wide and 3 inches high. After marking them 
out with a pencil, bore a hole at each corner, and cut from 
one hole to another with a small saw. Trim up the edges 
of the openings with a chisel. 

After cutting the doorways, 

Nail Together the Frame Boards, then cut and fasten 
the partitions in place in the positions shown in Fig. 703. 
You can cut two partitions of a length equal to the inside 
length of the frame (G), and six shorter partitions to fit 
between them (H); or you can cut two partitions of a 
length equal to the inside length of the frames, and two 
of a length equal to the inside width of the frames, and 
halve them together. They will be halved in the same 
way that the pigeon-holes of the writing-desk shown in 
Chapter 8 are put together (Figs. 187 and 188). 

Prepare Floor Boards / to fit the first-story frame 
(Fig. 703), floor boards / to form a 3-inch projection upon 
all sides of the second-story frame, floor boards K to form 
a 2-inch projection upon all sides of the third-story frame, 
and floor boards L to fit the third-story frame. 

A hole must be sawed through the exact center of floors 
/, /, and K to admit the post support V (Fig. 708), which 



A MARTIN HOUSE 



367 





I : d I 



Fig. 703. — Build the Martin House in Sections as above 
(For Dimensions of Parts See Text) 

extends through the first, second and third stories. Nail floor 
boards /, /, and K to the under side of the first, second, 
and third-story frames. These sections need not be fastened 



368 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 



to one another, because the center post support will tie 
them together when they are slipped over it. 

Cut the Gable -Ends M and partition N (Figs. 703 and 
704) out of 1 2 -inch boards, making the angle at the peak 
90 degrees. Bore three 23^-inch doorways through ends 
M, in the positions shown. Nail floor boards L to the 
bottoms of gable-ends M and partition N, then cut parti- 
tions (Fig. 704) 4 inches wide, to fit between ends M 
and partition N, and fasten floor P on top. 




Fig. 704. — Detail of Top Section 



Cut the Roof Boards long enough to project 6 inches 
over the gable-ends and side walls, fasten them together 
in two sections with battens, and fasten them to the tops 
of the gable-ends. 

Cut two triangular pieces like S (Fig. 705), and nail one 
to the center of each end of floor L. Prepare a pair of 

Brackets of the shape of U (Fig. 706) to fit under each 
of the pieces S, and sixteen of the same size to fit under the 



A MARTIN HOUSE 



3 6 9 



third-story ledge, four on each side of the house. Cut 
sixteen brackets of the shape of bracket T (Fig. 705), and 
fasten these below the second-story ledge, four on each 
side of the house. Cut 

The Chimney blocks Q and R of the shape shown in Fig. 
707, nail them together, and fasten to the center of the 
peak of the roof. 

Fig. 707 



Fig. 706 






Fig. 705 



Figs. 705 and 706. — Details of Shelf Brackets 
Fig. 707. — Chimney 



f The Bird-House Support is built up as shown in Figs. 
708 to 710. Center post V is a 2-by-6, pieces W are 
2-by-2S (Fig. 709), brackets X are cut out of a 2-by-6 (Fig. 
710), and the shoulder blocks Y and Z are cut out of a 
piece of 2-DV-4. You will see by Fig. 709 that one of the 
triangular brackets X is spiked to each of the edges of the 
2-by-6 V, so the tops are on the same level. Shoulder 
cross-pieces Y are then spiked to upright V, and to brackets 
X, even with the tops of brackets X. Two-by-two W is 
spiked to each side of 2-by-6 V, with the top butting against 
the under side of shoulder crosspiece F. Another bracket 



370 CARPENTRY AND MECHANICS FOR BOYS 

X is then spiked to each of the pieces W, with its top even 
with the tops of the other brackets. Shoulder blocks Z 
are cut to fit against brackets X and crosspieces Y. Center 
member V of the support should project far enough above 
the bracket, so the first-, second-, and third-story frames 
will slip over it, and the top floor will rest upon it. 



Fig. 708 



Fig. 709 



A Concrete Base. 
Because a martin 
house must have a 
height of from 15 
to 20 feet above the 
ground, the base of 
the support must be 
made very solid to 
prevent its blowing 
over in a heavy 
wind-storm. The 
best method is to 
dig a hole about 30 
inches deep, 20 
Fig. 710 inches wide, and 20 
inches long, stand 
the support in the 
center, and fill in around it with concrete. Mix up the 
concrete in the way described for making the mixture for 
the concrete lawn-roller (Chapter 34). 

To Set Up the Martin House, after the support has been 
erected, will require two persons. Build a temporary 
scaffolding around the support, to stand upon, and raise 




Figs. 708 to 710. — Details of Post Support for 
Martin House 



A MARTIN HOUSE 371 

and set in place one section of the house at a time. Figures 
711 to 714 in the Frontispiece to Part 4, opposite page 293, 
show how the author rigged up a ladder scaffolding for set- 
ting up his martin house; also how the sections were as- 
sembled. 



INDEX 



"A" shelter tent, 236. 

Aerial, wireless, for toy battleship, 134; 
150. 

Aerial top, 233 ; to spin the, 234. 

Airplanes, simple model, 225; matter of 
balance, 225; the center of gravity 
and center of air pressure, 225; to 
make an envelope glide, 227; an 
envelope glider, 228; a cardboard 
glider, 229; a sling-shot glider, 230; 
the sling-shot, 231; to launch the 
sling-shot glider, 23 1 ; the aerial top, 
233 ; to spin the top, 234. 

Artillery and miniature warfare, toy, 
156; a field artillery gun, 157; 
shaping the gun, 159; the plunger, 
159; testing the gun, 160; ^g-inch 
shells, 160; the gun carriage, 160; 
wheels, 162; mounting the gun, 162; 
elevating device, 162; a siege gun, 
162; shaping the gun, 163; the 
plunger, 164; J^-inch shells, 164; the 
gun carriage, 164; the elevating 
device, 166; painting, 1-67; a forti- 
fication, 167; disappearing guns, 167; 
flagstaff, 168; laying out the battle- 
field, 168. 

B 

Back yard and camp fireplaces, 241; a 
fireplace with trenched fire-pit, 241; 
a fireplace with circular fire-pit, 242; 
a fireplace with above-ground fire- 
pit, 242; a camp oven, 243; a wash- 
boiler camp stove, 245; a fire shovel, 
247; a camp-fire tripod, 247. 



Back yard and camp lamp, 249; a 
varnish-can lantern, 249 ; a lard-pail 
candle lantern, 254; a tin-can candle- 
holder, 255; another tin-can candle- 
holder, 255; a candle light-fixture, 
255; a bicycle-lamp bracket light 
fixture, 256; trench candles, 256. 

Back yard tents, 235; the "A" shelter 
tent, 236; the tripod tent, 236; the 
lean-to tent, 238; the cage tent, 238. 

Baler, a paper-, 57; base of, 59; com- 
pressor top for, 60; compressor lever 
for, 60; how to operate, 61. 

Ballast pocket for toy submarine, 143; 
trigger for releasing, 143. 

Barrel, toy machine-gun, 201; drill-gun, 
211; Springfield model drill-gun, 213. 

Barrel-stave rockers for box chairs, 108. 

Basket, a hanging-, 3 16. 

Basket, a seed, 321. 

Basket, a waste, 82; a box, 106; another 
design of, 1 13 . 

Battery guns, toy battleship main, 135; 
149; 152; secondary, 136; 149; 152. 

Battlefield, laying out a miniature, 168. 

Battleship, a toy superdreadnought, 
129; materials for, 130; the hull, 130; 
the superstructure-deck, 131; the 
funnels, 133; the conning-tower, 134; 
the masts, 134; the wireless aerial, 
134; the fighting-tops, 135; the turret 
bases and turrets, 135; the main 
battery guns, 135; the secondary- 
battery guns, 136; the flag-staffs, 
136; the deck-rails, 136; the keel 
strips, 137; a running-gear, 137; 
painting, 137; assembling, 138. 



373 



374 



INDEX 



Battleships, fleet of toy, 145; a battle- 
ship, 147; hull, 148; superstructure- 
deck, 148; masts, 148; fighting-tops, 
148; funnels, 149; conning-tower , 
149; gun turrets, 149; main-battery 
guns, 149; secondary-battery guns, 
149; spool wheels, 150; wireless 
aerial, 150; a cruiser, 150; hull, 150; 
superstructure-deck, 150; gun tur- 
rets, 152; main-battery guns, 152; 
secondary-battery guns, 152; funnels 
153; masts, 153; fighting-tops, 153; 
assembling, 153; paddle-wheel, 154. 

Battle sight, 214. 

Bayonet for drill-gun, 215. 

Bench, work-, 1; an improvised, 2; top 
for, 4; vise, 4; bench-stop, 6; a, with 
adjustable vise, 6; bill of material, 
6; framework, 7, bench-vise, 9; 
bench-screw, 9; to attach bench- 
screw, 10; peg supports for work, 12; 
bench-stop, 12; tool-cabinet and 
tool-racks, 13 ; a table work-, 15. 

Beveled-siding, 260. 

Bicycle-lamp bracket light-fixture, 256; 

Bike garage, 258; working material, 259; 
the floor framework, 261; the side 
walls, 262; erecting the walls, 263; 
the roof, 264; the door, 264; a cup- 
board, 265; a wheel-rack, 265; a 
runway, 265 ; painting, 265 ; to make 
the garage tighter, 265. 

Bird house, a bluebird, 358; bluebird 
requirements, 358; the hanging- 
house, 359; the doorways, 360; 
assembling the house, 360; the re- 
movable floor, 360; perch-sticks, 
360; the bluebird house on a pole, 
361; the iron pipe support, 361; a 
permanent way of erecting the pipe 
_ support, 363. 

Bird house, a martin, 364; martin re- 
quirements, 364; building material, 
364; the first story frame, 364; 
cutting the doorways, 365; nailing 



together the frame boards, 366; the 
floor boards, 366; the gable-ends, 
368; the roof boards, 368; brackets, 
368; the chimney, 369; the bird- 
house support, 369; a concrete base, 
370; to set up the house, 370. 

Bird houses, 336; bird-house campaigns, 
336; a good all-the-year-round 
activity, 337; the American Bird- 
House League, 337 ; work to be proud 
°f» 33&> a boys' bird-house factory, 
338; the right dimensions for houses, 
340; the height above ground to 
place the houses, 340; a chart of 
correct dimensions, 340; 341; mate- 
rials for bird-house building, 340; 
finishing, 342. 

Bird houses, robin, 348; robin require- 
ments, 348; robin shelter No. 1, 348; 
robin shelter No. 2, 350. 

Bird Houses, woodpecker, 353; wood- 
pecker requirements, 353; wood- 
pecker house No. 1, 353 ; woodpecker 
house No. 2, 356. 

Bird houses, wren, 343; wren require- 
ments, 343; wren house No. 1, 345; 
wrenhouse No. 2, 347; wren house 
No. 3, 347; finishing, 347. 

Blotter, a spool desk, 36. 

Bluebird house (see Bird House, a blue- 
bird). 

Bob-sled, 275; material, 275; the sled 
runners, 276; the connecting cross- 
pieces, 278; the foot-bar, 278; the 
steering-line, 279; the sled seats, 279; 
the bob-sled connecting seat, 280; 
upholstering the seat, 281; the hand- 
rails, 282; runner shoes, 283; paint- 
ing, 283. 

Book-ends, 44. 

Book-trough and magazine-stand, 118. 

Boom for clockwork derrick, 188. 

Box, fancy-work, 84; covering, 85; a 
cloth pocket and elastic tapes, 85; 
spool spindles, 85. 



INDEX 



375 



Boxes, flower, 309; material for, 309: 
finishing, 309; a window or porch 
box, 310; feet, 311; a plant-tub, 312; 
a plant-stand, 313; a hanging-box, 
313; suspending the box, 314; metal 
liners, 314; surplus water, 315; a 
satisfactory drain, 315; before plant- 
ing metal-lined boxes, 316; the 
hanging-basket, 316. 

Boxes, seed, 298; seed flats, 299; filling, 
300; miniature green houses, 301; a 
greenhouse with a lean-to roof, 301; 
a greenhouse with a gable roof, 302; 
painting, 303. 

Box furniture, 96; a packing-box desk, 
97; pigeon-holes, 99; finishing, 100; 
a desk stool, 102; upholstering, 104; 
finishing, 105, covering tor stool 
seat, 105; a waste-basket, 106, box 
rockers, 108; warping the rockers, 
108; a table, 109; a tabouret, no. 

Bracket-saw, 14. 



Cabinet, a recipe filing-, 66; the cabinet, 
67; the drawer, 68; finish for, 68; 
envelope recipe containers, 68; 
cabinet, a tool, 13. 

Cables for clockwork derrick, 188; for 
electro-magnet traveling crane, 195. 

Cage tent, 238. 

Calendar, a spool desk, 34. 

Calendar-board and pen-rack, 42. 

Camouflage, the rainbow smudge, 208. 

Camp fireplaces, 241; a fireplace with 
trenched fire-pit, 241; a fire-place 
with circular fire-pit, 242; a fire- 
place with above-ground fire-pit, 
242; a camp oven, 243 ; a wash-boiler 
camp-stove, 245; a fire shovel, 247; 
a camp-fire tripod, 247. 

Camp lamps, 249; a varnish-can 
lantern, 249; a lard-pail candle 
lantern, 254; a tin-can candle-holder, 
255; another tin-can candle-holder, 



255; a candle light-fixture, 255; a 
bicycle lamp bracket light fixture, 
256 ; trench candles, 256. 

Candle-stick, a spool, 33 ; another design 
of, 45- 

Canning time, racks and trays for, 325; 
a wash-boiler rack, 325; a rack sus- 
pended over a stove, 326; a drying- 
tray to stand upon a stove, 326; a 
sun dryer, 327; a rack for ripening 
tomatoes, 330; making racks and 
trays to sell, 330. 

Carriage, toy artillery gun, 160; 164, 
wheels for, 162. 

Cartridges for toy machine-gun, dowel- 
stick, 205; magazine for, 205. 

Centering platform for concrete lawn- 
roller, 332. 

Chain, jack, 314. 

Chair, a telephone, 121. 

Chairs, box rocking-, 108; warping the 
barrel-stave rockers, 108. 

Clock-shelf, 64. 

Clockwork motor derrick-crane, 181; 
clockwork for toy motor, 181; 
pulley-wheel, 182; pulley-belts, 183; 
winding-drums, 184; motor shack, 
184; installing the motor, 185; turn- 
table, 187; derrick, 187; beam, 187; 
mast, 187; mast-pulley, 187; boom, 
188; hoisting-block, 188; cables, 188; 
tracks, 189. 

Clothes-line reel 74; case, 75; reel, 75; 
crank shaft, 76; clothes-line, 76; 
hangers, 76; locking the, 76. 

Clubs, drill, 210. 

Code, signal, 222. 

Cold-frame, 297. 

Concrete base for the bird-house 
support, 370. 

Concrete mixture, 334; pouring, 334; 
initial set, 334. 

Conning-tower, a toy battleship, 134; 
149. 

Containers, recipe, 68. 



376 



INDEX 



Coping-saw, 14. 

Crane, an electro-magnet traveler, 190; 
the crane carnage, 190; stick tracks, 
192; the electro-magnet, 192; the 
switch, 194; the hoisting-cable, 195. 

Crane with clockwork motor, derrick-, 
181; clockwork for toy motors, 181; 
pulley-wheel, 182; pulley belts, 183; 
winding-drums, 184; motor shack, 
184; installing the motor, 185; turn- 
table, 187; derrick, 187; beam, 187; 
mast, 187; mast pulley, 187; boom, 
188; hoisting-block, 188; cables, 188; 
tracks, 189. 

Crank, firing, for toy machine-gun, 203. 

Cupboard for bike garage, 265. 

Cut-outs (see Scroll-saw Problems). 

D 

Deck, toy battleship, 131; 148; 150. 

Deck rails, toy battleship, 136. 

Decks, toy submarine, 141. 

Derrick-crane with clockwork motor, 
181; clockwork for toy motors, 181; 
pulley wheel, 182; pulley-belts, 183; 
winding-drums, 184: motor shack, 
184; installing the motor, 185; turn- 
table, 187; derrick, 187; beam, 187; 
mast, 187; mast pulley, 187; boom, 
188; hoisting-block, 188; cables, 188; 
tracks, 189. 

Desk, a packing-box, 97; pigeon-holes, 
99; finishing, 100. 

Desk blotter, a spool, 36. 

Desk calendar, a spool, 34. 

Desk calendar-board and pen-rack, 42. 

Desk paper-knife, a spool, 37. 

Desk paper-spindle, a spool, 37. 

Desk pen-rack, a spool, 35. 

Desk stationery-rack, a spool, 35. 

Desk stool, 102; upholstering, 104; 
finishing, 105 ; covering the seat, 105 . 

Desk telephone directory, 49. 

Dibble, 321; an umbrella-handle, 321. 

Doll furniture, a seven-piece set of, 23. 



Doll teeterers for sand-motor teeter toy, 
180. 

Door, a batten, 264. 

Drill clubs, 210. 

Drill guns, 210; a simple model, 210; 
pattern for marking out duplicate 
stocks, 211; the barrel, 211; trigger, 
211; trigger-guard, 211; front sight, 
211; rear sight, 211; finishing, 212; 
a Springfield rifle model, 212; the 
stock and barrel, 213; trigger and 
trigger-guard, 213; front sight, 213; 
rear sight, 213; battle sight, 214; 
open sight, 214; peep sight, 214; 
finishing, 214; the sling, 214; weight 
of a Springfield, 215; to increase 
weight of drill-guns, 215; a bayonet, 
215; finishing, 216; a scabbard, 217. 

Drop-siding, 260. 

Drums, winding, 184. 

Dryer, a sun, 327. 

Drying-tray, 326. 



E 

Egg-rack, 47. 

Electric-lighted watch base, 52 . 

Electro-magnet traveling crane, 190; 
the crane carriage, 190; stick tracks, 
192; the electro-magnet, 192; the 
switch, 194; the hoisting cable, 195. 

Enamel paint, 32. 

Envelope glider, 228. 

Expansive-bit, 11. 



Fancywork-box, 84; covering, 85; a 

cloth pocket and elastic tapes, 85; 

spool spindles, 85. 
Fancywork-box with legs, 85 ; covering, 

86. 
Fancy-work frame, 77; spool spindles 

for, 78. 



INDEX 



377 



Field artillery gun, a toy, 157; shaping 
the gun, 159; the plunger, 159; test- 
ing the gun, 159; %-inch shells, 160; 
gun carriage, 160; wheels,i62; mount- 
ing the gun, 162; elevatingdevice, 162. 

Fighting-tops, toy battleship, 135; 148; 

153- 

Filing-cabinet, a recipe, 66; the cabinet, 
67; the drawer, 68; finish for, 68; 
envelope recipe containers, 68. 

Finish, enamel paint, 32; for spool gifts, 
34; stain and wax, 34; for kitchen 
contrivpnces, 64; for sewing-room 
contrivances, 8 1 ; for cigar-box wood, 
68; for box furniture, 100; for small 
furniture, 112; for toy battleship 
137; for toy submarine, 144; for toy 
artillery guns, 167; for toy machine- 
gun, 208; for drill-guns, 212; for 
bayonet, 216; for bike garage, 265; 
for bob-sled, 283; for snow-fort 
periscope, 289; for seed-fiats, 299; 
for miniature greenhouses, 303; for 
flower-boxes, 309; for lawn-roller 
frame, 335; for bird houses, 342. 

Firepit, a trenched, 241; a fireplace with 
circular, 242; a fireplace with above- 
ground, 242. 

Fire shovel, a camp, 247. 

Fireplaces, back yard and camp, 241; 
a fireplace with trenched fire-pit, 
241; a fireplace with circular fire-pit, 
242; a fireplace with above-ground 
firepit, 242; a camp oven, 243; a 
wash-boiler camp stove, 245; a fire 
shovel, 247 ; a camp-fire tripod, 247. 

Firing-crank, toy machine-gun, 203. 

Fixture, a camp candle light-, 255. 

Flag for signalling, hand, 221. 

Flag, staffs, toy battleship, 136. 

Flats, seed-, 299; filling, 300. 

Fleet of toy battleships, a, 145; a 
battleship, 147; the hull, 148; the 
superstructure-deck, 148; the masts, 
148; the fighting-tops, 148; the 



funnels, 149, the conning-tower, 149; 
the gun turrets, 149; the main- 
battery guns, 149; the secondary- 
battery guns, 149; spool wheels, 150; 
the wireless aerial, 150; a cruiser, 
150; the hull, 150; the superstruc- 
ture-deck, 150; gun turrets, 152; 
main-battery guns, 152; secondary- 
battery guns, 152; funnels, 153; 
masts, 153; fighting-tops, 153; 
assembling, 153; paddle-wheel, 154. 

Flower-boxes, 309; material for, 309; 
finishing, 309; a window or porch 
box, 310; feet, 3 1 1 ; a plant-tub, 312; 
a plant-stand, 313; a hanging-box, 
313; suspending the box, 314; metal 
liners, 314; surplus water, 315; a 
satisfactory drain, 315; belore plant- 
ing metal-lined boxes, 316; the 
hanging-basket, 3 16. 

Foot-bar, a bob-sled, 278. 

Forcers, plant, 306; 308. 

Fortifications for miniature warfare, 
167; disappearing guns for, 167; 
flagstaff, 168. 

Frame, a cold-, 297. 

Frame, a fancy-work, 77; spool spindles 
for, 78. 

Funnels, toy battleship, 133; 149; 153. 

Furniture, a seven-piece set of , 23. 

Furniture, box, 96; a packing-box, desk, 
97; pigeon-holes, 99; finishing, 100; 
a desk stool, 102; upholstering, 104; 
finishing, 105; covering for stool 
seat, 105; a waste-basket, 106; box 
rockers, 108; warping the rockers, 
108; a table, 109; a tabouret, no. 

Furniture problems, small, in; mate- 
rial for, in; finishing, 112; a waste- 
basket, 113; a tabouret, 116; a 
plant-stand, 116; a smoker's stand, 
117; a book-trough and magazine- 
stand, 118; a telephone table and 
chair, 121 ; the table, 121; the chair, 
124. 



378 



INDEX 



Gable-ends, 368. 

Gable roof, 301. 

Garage, a bike, 258; working material, 
259; the floor framework, 261; the 
side walls, 262; erecting the walls, 
263; the roof, 264; the door, 264; 
a cupboard, 265; a wheel-rack, 265; 
a runway, 265; painting, 265; to 
make the garage tighter, 265. 

Garden accessories, 319; a tin-can 
sprinkler, 320; a dibble, 321; an 
umbrella handle dibble, 321; a 
planting trencher, 321; a seed 
basket, 321; garden markers, 323; 
how to put up strings for vines, 3 23 ; 
tomato-racks, 324. 

Gifts, spool, 33; a candle-stick, 33; a 
desk calendar, 34; a stationery-rack, 
35; a pen-rack, 35; a desk blotter, 
36 , a paper-knife, 37 ; a paper-spindle, 
37; a toothpick-holder, 38; a ripper, 
39; a hatpin-holder, 39; a necktie- 
rack, 40. 

Gifts in wood, small, 41; material for, 
41; stain and wax finish for, 41; 
calendar-board and penrack, 42; 
post-card rack, 44; book -ends, 44; 
candle-stick, 45; match-holder and 
tray, 45 ; egg-rack, 47 ; desk telephone 
directory, 49; time-card rack, 50; 
wall telephone directory, 50; necktie- 
rack, 51; necktie- or towel-rack, 52; 
electric-lighted watch base, 5 2. 

Glider, an envelope, 228; a cardboard, 
229; a sling-shot, 230. 

Gravity, center of, 225. 

Greenhouses, miniature, 301; with a 
lean-to roof, 301; with a gable roof, 
302; painting, 303. 

Grindstone operated by sand-motor, a 
toy, 176. 

Guard, drill-gun trigger, 211, 213. 

Gun, a toy machine-, 196, what you can 
do with it, 196; the parts, 196; the 



stock, 196; the barrel, 201; the front 
sight, 202; the hammer rod, 202; the 
hammer spring, 202; the firing 
crank, 203; cartridges, 205; the 
magazine, 205; the tripod, 207; 
painting, 20S, a helmet, 208. 

Gun carriage, toy artillery, 160; 164; 
wheels, 162. 

Guns, drill-, 210; a simple model, 210; 
pattern for marking out duplicate 
stocks, 211; the barrel, 211; the 
trigger, 211; the trigger-guard, 211; 
the front sight, 211; the rear sight, 
211; finishing, 212; a Springfield 
rifle model, 212; the stock and 
barrel, 213; the trigger and trigger- 
guard, 213; the front sight, 213; the 
rear sight, 213; battle sight, 214; 
open sight, 214; peep sight, 214; 
finishing, 214; the sling, 214; weight 
of a Springfield rifle, 215; to increase 
weight of drill-guns, 215; a bayonet, 
215; finish for bayonet, 216; a 
scabbard, 217. 

Guns, toy battleship main battery, 135, 
149, 152; secondary battery, 136, 
149, 152. 

Guns for miniature fortifications, dis- 
appearing, 167. 

H 

Hammer rod, toy machine-gun, 202; 
spring for, 202. 

Hand fla.g for signalling, 221. 

Hand-rails for bob-sled, 282. 

Hangers, flower-box, 314. 

Hanging-box, 313; suspending the, 314. 

Hatpin holder, a spool, 39. 

Helmet, a wash-basin, 208. 

Hike tents, 235; the "A" shelter tent, 
236; the tripod tent, 236; the lean-to 
tent, 238; the cage tent, 238. 

Hoisting-block for clockwork derrick, 



INDEX 



379 



Holder, a stationery, 35; a toothpick-, 

38; a hatpin-, 39; a match-, 45. 
Holder, a tin-can candle-, 255; another, 

255- 

Holder, a Sammy spool-, 87. 

Holder, a whisk-broom, 94. 

Hopper for sand toys, 170, 177. 

Hotbed, 293; size to make a, 293; a 
single-sash, 293; the framework, 
294 ; assembling the framework, 294; 
digging the hotbed pit, 295; filling 
the pit, 295; a cold-frame, 297. 

House, a bluebird, 358; bluebird require- 
ments, 358; the hanging-house, 359; 
the doorways, 360; assembling the 
house, 360; the removable floor, 360; 
perch-sticks, 360; the bluebird house 
on a pole, 361 ; the iron pipe support, 
361; a permanent way of erecting 
the pipe support, 363. 

House, a martin, 364; martin require- 
ments, 364; building material, 364; 
the first story frame, 364; cutting 
the doorways, 365; nailing together 
the frame boards, 366; the floor 
boards, 366; the gable-ends, 368; 
the roof boards, 368; brackets, 368; 
the chimney, 369; the bird-house 
support, 369; a concrete base, 370; 
to set up the house, 370. 

Houses, bird, 336; bird-house campaigns, 
336; a good all-the-year around 
activity, 337; the American Bird- 
House League, 337; work to be 
proud of, 338; a boy's bird-house 
factory, 338; the right dimensions 
for houses, 340; the height above 
ground to place the houses, 340; a 
chart of correct dimensions, 340, 341 ; 
materials for bird-house building, 
340; finishing, 342. 

Houses, robin, 348; robin requirements, 
348; robin shelter No. 1, 348; robin 
shelter, No. 2, 350. 

Houses, woodpecker, 353; woodpecker 



requirements, 353; house No. 1, 335; 

woodpecker house No. 2, 356. 
Houses, wren, 343; wren requirements, 

343; wren house No. 1, 345; wren 

house No. 2, 347; wren house No. 3, 

347; finishing, 347. 
Hull, toy battleship, 130; 148; 150; 

toy submarine, 141. 



Initial set of cement, 334. 



Jack-chain, 314. 

Jig-saw picture puzzles, 16; wood for, 

17; picture material, 18; mounting, 

18; how to cut, 18; the T-puzzle, 19; 

the square puzzle, 20; the prism 

puzzle, 21. 

K 

Keel for toy battleship, 137. 

Kitchen, for mother's, 63 ; a clock-shelf, 
64; finish, 64; a tool-rack, 65; a 
milk-card rack, 66; a recipe filing- 
cabinet, 66; the cabinet, 67; the 
drawer, 68; finish for cigar-box 
wood, 68; envelope recipe containers, 
68; a step-ladder stool, 69; the 
ladder, 69; the side rails, 69; the 
steps, 70; the rear legs, 71; the top 
step, 71; the struts, 71; clothes-line 
reel, 74; case of reel, 75; the reel, 75; 
the crank-shaft, 76; the clothes-line, 
76; hangers, 76; locking the reel, 76. 

Knitting needles, sweater, 91; point 
protectors for, 92; sock, 92. 



Ladder, a stool step-, 69; the ladder, 69; 
the side rails, 69; the steps, 70; the 
rear legs, 71; the top step, 71; the 
struts, 71. 



3 8o 



INDEX 



Lamps, back-yard and camp, 249; a 
varnish-can lantern, 249; a lard -pail 
candle lantern, 254; a tin-can candle- 
holder, 255; a candle light-fixture, 
255; a bicycle lamp bracket light- 
fixture, 256; trench candles, 256. 

Lantern, a varnish-can, 249; a lard-pail 
candle-, 254. 

Lawn roller, $3 1 ; material required, 331; 
the centering platform 332; locating 
center for the axle, 333; the center 
of the flange end, z^y, the concrete 
mixture, 334; pouring the concrete, 
334; the initial set, 334; removing 
the tile pipe, 335; the iron pipe 
handle frame, 335; painting, 335. 

Lean-to roof, 301. 

Lean-to tent, 238. 

Light-fixture, a camp candle, 255. 

Liners, flower-box metal-, 314; surplus 
water, 3151a satisfactory drain, 315; 
before planting metal-lined boxes, 
316. 

M 

Machine-gun, a toy, 196; what you can 
do with it, 196; the parts, 196; the 
stock, 196; the barrel, 201; the front 
sight, 202; the hammer rod, 202; 
the hammer spring, 202; the firing- 
crank, 203; cartridges, 205; the 
magazine, 205; the tripod, 207; 
painting, 208; a helmet, 208. 

Magazine for toy machine gun, 205. 

Magazine-stand and book-trough, 1 18. 

Martin house, 364; martin requirements, 
364; building material, 364; the first 
story frame, 364; cutting the door- 
ways, 365 ; nailing together the frame 
boards, 366; the floor boards, 366; 
the gable ends, 368; the roof boards, 
368; brackets, 368; the chimney, 
369; the bird-house support, 369; 
a concrete base, 370; to set up the 
house, 370. 



Main battery guns, toy battleship, 135, 
149, 152. 

Markers, garden, 323. 

Mast, the clockwork derrick-crane, 187; 
pulley for, 187. 

Masts, toy battleship, 134, 148, 153. 

Matched boards, 260. 

Match-holder, 45. 

Milk-card rack, 66. 

Model airplanes, simple, 225; matter of 
balance, 225; the center of gravity 
and center of air pressure, 225; to 
make an envelope glide, 227; an 
envelope glider, 228; a cardboard 
glider, 229; a sling-shot glider, 230; 
the sling-shot, 231; to launch the 
sling-shot glider, 231; the aerial top, 
233; to spin the top, 234. 

Monkey-in-swing cut-out, 27. 

Motor, clockwork, 181; installing the, 

185. 
Motor shack, clockwork, 184. 

N 
Necktie-rack, a spool, 40; other designs 

of, 51, 52. 
Needles, sweater knitting, 91; sock 

knitting, 92; point protectors for, 92. 



O 



Open sight, 214. 
Oven, a camp, 243. 



Paddle-wheel for toy battleship, 154; 
for sand-motor, 170. 

Painting, jig-saw cut-outs, 32; kitchen 
contrivances, 64; sewing-room con- 
trivances, 81; box furniture, 100; 
small furniture, 112; toy battleship, 
137; toy submarine, 144 ; toy artillery 
guns, 167; toy machine-gun, 208; 
drill-guns, 212; bayonet, 216; bike 



INDEX 



38i 



garage, 265; bob-sled, 283; the snow- 
fort periscope, 289; seed-flats, 299; 
miniature greenhouses, 303; flower- 
boxes, 309; lawn-roller, 335; bird- 
houses, 342. 

Paper-baler, 57; base of, 59; compressor 
top for, 60; compressor lever for, 60; 
how to operate, 61. 

Paper-knife, a spool, 37. 

Paper spindle, a spool, 37. 

Parrot-in-swing cut-out, 27. 

Parting-strips, 317. 

Peep sight, 2 14. 

Pen -rack, 42; a spool, 42. 

Periscope, a snow-fort, 284; material, 
required, 285; cutting out the parts, 
287; assembling the box, 288; open- 
ings, 288; handles, 289; painting, 
289. 

Periscopes for toy submarine, 144. 

Perch-sticks, bird-house, 360. 

Picture puzzles, 16. 

Pigeon-holes for desk, 99. 

Pipe handle frame for lawn-roller, 335. 

Pit for a hotbed, digging a, 295; filling, 

295- 

Plant boxes, 309; material for, 309; 
finishing, 309; a window or porch 
box, 310; feet, 311; a plant-tub, 312; 
a plant-stand, 313; a hanging-box, 
313; suspending the box, 314; metal 
liners, 314; surplus water, 315; a 
satisfactory drain, 315; before plant- 
ing metal-lined boxes, 316; the 
hanging-basket, 3 16. 

Planting trencher, 321. 

Plant-shields and forcers, 305; the 
paper-funnel, shield, 306; the flower- 
pot shield, 306; the basket shield, 
306; the tin can shield and forcer, 
306; a plant forcer, 308. 

Plant-stand, 116, 313. 

Plant-tub, 312. 

Platform, a toboggan-slide, 268, 272. 

Plunger, toy artillery gun, 159, 164. 



Pocket for fancywork-box, 85. 

Porch flower-box, 310; feet, 311; metal 
liners, 314; surplus water, 315; a 
satisfactory drain, 315; before plant- 
ing metal-lined boxes, 316. 

Post-card rack, 44. 

Pots, paper, 303; cardboard box, 304; 
circular, 304. 

Prism puzzle, 21. 

Pulley-belts, rubber-band, 183. 

Pulley-wheel, a spool, 182. 

Puzzle, the T-, 19; the square, 20; the 
prism, 21. 

Puzzles, jig-saw picture, 16; wood for; 
17; picture material, 18; mounting, 
18; how to cut, 18. 

R 

Rack, a tool-, 13; a spool stationery-, 
35 ; a spool pen-, 35 ; a spool necktie-, 
40; a pen-, 42; a post -card, 44; an 
egg-, 47; a time-card, 50; a wall 
telephone directory, 50; a necktie-, 
5 1 ; a necktie- or towel-, 5 2 ; a kitchen 
tool-, 65; a milk-card, 66; a bicycle, 
265. 

Racks, tomato-, 324. 

Racks and trays for canning time, 3 25 ; 
a wash-boiler rack, 325; a rack sus- 
pended over a stove, 326; a drying- 
tray to stand upon a stove, 326; a 
sun dryer, 327; a rack for ripening 
tomatoes, 330; making racks and 
trays to sell, 330. 

Railings, a toboggan-slide platform, 
268; step-, 269. 

Rails, toy battleship deck-, 136. 

Rainbow smudge camouflage, 208. 

Recipe filing-cabinet, 66; the cabinet, 
67; the drawer, 68; finish, for 68; 
envelope recipe containers, 68. 

Reel, clothes-line, 74; case, 75, crank- 
shaft, 76; clothes-line, 76; hangers, 
76; locking the, 76. 

Ripper, a spool, 39. 



„-■-. — --. 



3 82 



IXDEX 



Runners, bob-sled, 276; shoes for, 2S3. 

Running-gear for toy battleship, 137. 

Robin shelters, 34S; robin requirements, 
34S; robin shelter No. 1, 34S; robin 
shelter Xo. 2, 350. 

Rockers, box, 108; warping the barrel- 
stave rockers, io3. 

Roller, a lawn, 331: material required, 
331; the centering platform, 332; 
locating center for the axle, ^33 > the 
center of the flange end, S33'< the 
concrete mixture, 334; pouring the 
concrete, 334; the initial set, 334; 
removing the tile pipe, 335; the iron 
pipe handle frame, 335 ; painting, 335. 

Roof, a lean-to, 301; a gable, 301. 



Sammy spool-holder, S7; a needle 
bayonet, S9; painting Sammy's 
clothes, So. 

Sand-motor toys, 170; a practical 
sand-motor, 170; a sand-hopper, 170; 
paddle-wheel. 170; shafting, 171; 
pulley-wheels, 171; position of 
paddle-wheel, 172; sand for motor, 
173; a trip-hammer, 173; a toy 
grindstone, 176; a teeter toy. 177; 
the standard, 177; the hopper. 177; 
the teeter, 17S; how the teeter toy 
works, 179; the doll teeterers, 1S0: 
a sand scoop, 180. 

Sash for hotbed, 293. 

Saw, scroll-, 14; bracket-, 14; coping-, 
14; jig-, 16; band-, 17. 

Scabbard for drill-gun bayonet, 217. 

Screw, bench-, 9. 

Scroll-saw problems, 14; saws for, 14, 
table to cut upon, 15 ; jig-saw picture 
puzzles, 16; the best wood, 17; 
picture material, iS; mounting, 18; 
how to cut picture puzzles, iS; the 
T -puzzle. 19; full-size patterns, 19; 
the square puzzle. 20; patterns, 21; 
the prism puzzle, 2 1 ; seven-piece set 



of doll furniture, 23 ; bird and animal 
cut-outs, 27. 
Secondary-battery guns, toy battleship, 
136, 140, 152. 

Seed basket, 321. 

Seed boxes and paper pots, 298; seed- 
flats, 299; filling, 300; miniature 
greenhouses, 301; a greenhouse with 
a lean-to roof, 301; a greenhouse 
with a gable roof, 302; painting, 303 ; 
paper pots, 303; pot made from 
cardboard box, 304; circular pots, 
3°4- 

Set of cement, the initial, 334. 

Sewing room, for mother's, 775a f ancy- 
work frame, 77; spool spindle, 78; 
a sewing-stand, 70; assembling, 80; 
finishing the woodwork, 81; a 
cretonne or denim covering, Si; a 
waste-basket, 82; a work-bag on a 
folding support S2; the bag, 8s; a 
fancywork-box, 84; covering the 
box, 85; a cloth pocket and elastic 
tapes, 85; spool spindles, 85; a 
fancywork-box with legs, 85; cre- 
tonne covering, S6; a Sammy spool- 
holder, 87, a needle bayonet, 89; 
painting Sammy's clothes, 89; a 
yarn winder, S9; sweater knitting 
needles, 91; sock knitting needles, 
92; needle-point protectors, 92; a 
whisk-broom holder, 94. 

Sewing-stand. 79. 

Shelf, a clock-, 64. 

Shells for toy artillery guns, 160, 164. 

Shelters, robin, 34S; robin requirements, 
348; shelter Xo. 1. 34S; shelter No. 2, 
35o. 

Shelter tent, an "A," 234. 

Shields and forcers, plant, 305; the 
paper-funnel shield, 306; the flower- 
pot shield. 306; the basket shield, 
306; the tin can shield and forcer, 
306; a plant forcer, 30S. 

Shiplap, 259. 



INDEX 



383 



Shoes, bob-sled runner-, 2 83. 

Siding drop-, 260; beveled-, 260. 

Siege gun, toy artillery, 162; shaping 
the gun, 163; the plunger, 164; 3^- 
inch shells, 164; the gun carriage, 
164; elevating device, 166; painting, 
167. 

Sight, toy machine-gun front, 202; drill- 
gun front, 211; 213; drill-gun rear, 
211, 213; battle, 214; open, 214; 
peep, 214. 

Signal code, 222. 

Signalling, 221; hand flag for, 221; 
memorizing the code, 222; to attract 
attention, 224; to finish a message, 
224. 

Sled, a bob-, 275; material for, 275; the 
sled runners, 276; the connecting 
crosspieces, 278; the foot-bar, 278; 
the steering-line, 279; the sled seats, 
279; the bob-sled connecting seat, 
280; upholstering the seat, 281; the 
hand-rails, 282; runner shoes, 283; 
painting, 283. 

SHde, a toboggan-, 266; building 
material, 266; the platform base, 
268; the platform railings, 268; the 
step-railings, 269; setting up the 
framework, 270; collecting snow for 
the slide, 270, the platform, 272; a 
set of steps, 272; the surface of the 
slide, 272; if there is a scarcity of 
snow, 272; a plank slide, 273; a 
more elaborate toboggan-slide, 273. 

Sliding-strip, a bench-vise, 9. 

Sling, a drill-gun, 214. 

Sling-shot glider, 230; the sling-shot, 
231; to launch the, 231. 

Smoker's stand, 117. 

Snow-fort periscope, 284; material re- 
quired, 285; cutting out the parts, 
287; assembling the box, 288; open- 
ings, 288; handles, 289; painting, 
289. 



Snow toboggan-slide, 266; building 
material, 266; the platform base, 
268; the platform railings, 268; the 
step-railings, 269; setting up the 
framework, 270; collecting snow for 
the slide, 270; the platform, 272; 
a set of steps, 272; the surface of 
the slide, 272; if there is a scarcity 
of snow, 272; a plank slide, 273; a 
more elaborate toboggan-slide, 273. 

Spindle, a paper-, 37. 

Spindle, a spool, 78, 85. 

Spool gifts, ss; a candle-stick, 33; a 
desk calendar, 34; a stationery-rack, 
35; a pen-rack, 35; a desk blotter, 
36; a paper-knife, 37; a paper- 
spindle, 37; a toothpick-holder, 38; 
a ripper, 39; a hatpin-holder, 39; 
a necktie-rack, 40. 

Spool-holder, a Sammy, 87; a needle 
bayonet for, 89; painting Sammy's 
clothes, 89. 

Springfield rifle model of drill-gun, 212; 
the stock and barrel, 213; the trigger 
and trigger guard, 213; the front 
sight, 213; the rear sight, 213; battle 
sight, 214; open sight, 214; peep 
sight, 214; finishing, 2T4; the sling, 
214; weight of a Springfield rifle, 
215; to increase weight of drill-gun, 

215- 

Sprinkler, a tin-can, 320. 

Square puzzle, 20. 

Stain and wax finish, 41. 

Stand, a book-trough and magazine, 

118. 
Stand, a plant-, 1 16, 313. 
Stand, a sewing-, 79. 
Stand, a smoker's, 117. 
Stationery-rack, a spool, 35. 
Steering-line, a bob-sled, 279. 
Step-ladder stool, 69; the ladder, 69; 

the side rails, 69; the steps, 70. 
Steps for toboggan-slide, 272. 



384 



INDEX 



Stock, toy machine-gun, 196; pattern 
for drill-gun, 211. 

Stool, a box desk, 102; upholstering, 
104; finishing covering for seat, 105. 

Stool, a step ladder, 69; the ladder, 69; 
the side rails, 69; the steps, 70. 

Stop, bench-, 12. 

Stove, a wash-boiler camp, 245. 

Struts, 71. 

Stucco, 260. 

Submarine, a toy, 139; the operating 
mechanism, 139; the hull and upper 
decks, 141; the ballast pocket, 143; 
the trigger for releasing ballast, 143 ; 
the periscopes, 144; painting, 144; 
submerging the, 144. 

Superdreadnought battleship, a toy, 
129; materials for, 130; the hull, 130; 
the superstructure-deck, 131; the 
funnels, 133; the conning-tower, 134; 
the masts, 134; the wireless aerial, 
134; the fighting-tops, 135; the 
turret bases and turrets, 135; the 
main-battery guns, 135; the second- 
ary-battery guns, 136; the flagstaff s, 
136; the deck-rails, 136; the keel 
strips, 137; a running-gear, 137; 
painting, 137; assembling, 138. 

Superstructure-deck, toy battleship, 
131, 148, 150. 

Support for bird-house, iron pipe, 361; 
a permanent way of erecting, 363 ; a 
post 363; a concrete base for, 370. 

Sock knitting needles, 92. 

Sweater knitting needles, 91; point 
protectors for, 92. 

Switch for electro-magnet traveling- 
crane, 194. 



Table, a box, 109; a telephone, 121. 
Table work-bench, 2; top for, 4; vise, 4; 

bench-stop, 6. 
Tabouret, a box, no; another design 

of, 116. 



Teeter toy, a sand motor, 177; the 
standard, 177; the hopper, 177; the 
teeter, 178; how the teeter toy 
works, 179; the doll teeterers, 180; 
a sand scoop, 180. 

Telephone directory, a desk, 49; a wall, 

5°- 

Telephone table and chair, 121. 

Tents for hikes and the back yard, 235; 
the "A" shelter tent, 236; the 
tripod tent, 236; the lean-to tent 
238; the cage tent, 238. 

Toboggan-slide, 266; building material, 
266; the platform base, 268; the 
platform railings, 268; the step- 
railings, 269; setting up the frame- 
work, 270; collecting snow for the 
slide, 270; the platform, 272; a set 
of steps, 272; the surface of the slide, 
272; if there is a scarcity of snow, 
272; a plank slide, 273; a more 
elaborate toboggan-slide, 273. 

Time-card rack, 50. 

Tomato ripening-rack, 330. 

Tomato-vine racks, 3 24. 

Tool -cabinets, 13. 

Tool-racks, 13 ; a kitchen, 65. 

Toothpick-holder, a spool, 38. 

Tongued-and-grooved boards, 260. 

Top, an aerial, 233 ; to spin the, 234. 

Tops, fighting-, toy battleship, 135, 148, 

153- 
Towel-rack, 52. 
Toy artillery and miniature warfare, 

156. 
Toy battleship, 1 29, 147, 150. 
Toy derrick-crane with clockwork 

motor, 181. 
Toy electro-magnet traveling crane, 

190. 
Toy fleet, 145. 
Toy machine-gun, 196. 
Toy submarine, 139. 
Toys, sand-motor, 170. 
Tub, a plant-, 312. 



INDEX 



385 



Turntable for clockwork derrick-crane, 

187. 
Turrets, toy battleship, 135, 149, 152. 
T-puzzle, 19. 
Tracks for clockwork derrick, 189; for 

electro-magnet traveling crane, 192. 
Tray, vegetable drying-, 326; making 

trays to sell, 330. 
Trench candles, 256. 
Trencher, a planting, 321. 
Trigger, drill-gun, 211, 213. 
Trigger-guard, drill gun, 211, 213. 
Trip-hammer operated by sand-motor, 

173- 
Tripod, a camp-fire, 247. 
Tripod, toy machine-gun, 207. 
Tripod tent, 234. 
Trough and magazine-stand, a book, 

118. 

U 

Upholstering a bob-sled seat, 281. 
Upholstering a desk stool, 104. 



Vine strings, 323. 

Vise, an improvised bench-, 4; an 
adjustable bench-, 9. 

W 
Warfare and toy artillery, miniature, 
156; a field artillery gun, 157; shap- 
ing the gun, 159; the plunger, 159; 
testing the gun, 160; %-inch shells, 
160; the gun carriage, 160; wheels, 
162; mounting the gun, 162; the 
elevating device, 162; a siege gun, 
162; shaping the gun, 163; the 
plunger, 164; i^-inch shells, 164; 
the gun carriage, 164; the elevating 
device, 166; painting, 167; a forti- 
fication, 167; disappearing guns, 167; 
flagstaff, 168; laying out the minia- 
ture battlefield, 168. 



Wash-boiler camp stove, 245. 
Wash-boiler rack for cold-pack canning, 

325- 

Waste-basket, 82; a box, 106; another 
design of, 113. 

Watch base, an electric-lighted, 52. 

Wax finish, 41. 

Wheel-rack, 265. 

Whisk-broom holder, 94. 

Winder, a yarn, 89. 

Winding-drums, 184. 

Window flower-box, 310; feet, 311; 
metal-liners, 314; surplus water, 315 ; 
a satisfactory drain, 315; before 
planting metal-lined boxes, 316. 

Wireless aerial, toy battleship, 134, 150. 

Woodpecker houses, 353; woodpecker 
requirements, 353; woodpecker house 
No. 1, 353; woodpecker house No. 2, 
356. 

Work-bench, the home, 1; an improvised 
2; top for, 4; vise, 4; bench-stop, 6; 
a, with adjustable vise, 6; bill of 
material, 6; framework, 7; bench- 
vise, 9; bench-screw, 9; to attach 
bench-screw, 10; peg supports for 
work, 12; bench-stop, 12; tool- 
cabinets and tool-racks, 13; a table, 

IS- 

Work-bag on a folding support, 82; the 
bag, 83. 

Work box, fancy-, 84; covering, 85; a 
cloth pocket and elastic tapes, 85; 
spool spindles, 85. 

Work box with legs, 85; covering, 86. 

Work frame, fancy-, 77; spool spindles 
for, 78. 

Wren houses, 343; wren requirements, 
343; wren house No. 1, 345; wren 
house No. 2, 347; wren house No. 3, 
347; finishing, 347. 

Writing-desk, a packing-box, 97 ; pigeon- 
holes, 99; finishing, 100. 



Y 



Yarn winder, 




Practical Plans for Work and Play with Many Ideas 
for Earning Money 

By A. NEELY HALL 

Author of "The Boy Craftsman" 

With Nearly 600 illustrations and Working-drawings by the Author and 
Norman P. Hall 8vo Cloth Net, $2.00 Postpaid, $2.25 

PHIS book is intended for boys who want the 

*■ latest ideas for making things, practical 

plans for earning money, up-to-date suggestions 

for games and sports, and novelties for home 

and school entertainments. 

The author has planned the suggestions on 
an economical basis, providing for the use of 
the things at hand, and many of the things which 
can be bought cheaply. Mr. Hall's books have 
won the confidence of parents, who realize that 
in giving them to their boys they are providing 
wholesome occupations which will encourage self-reliance and resource- 
fulness, and discourage tendencies to be extravagant. 

Outdoor and indoor pastimes have been given equal attention, and 
much of the work is closely allied to the studies of the modern gram- 
mar and high schools, as will be seen by a glance at the following list 
of subjects, which are only a few among those discussed in the 500 
pages of text : 

Manual Training; Easily-made Furniture; Fitting up a 
Boy's Room ; Home-made Gymnasium Apparatus ; A Boy's 
Wireless Telegraph Outfit; Coasters and Bob-sleds; 
Model Aeroplanes; Pushmobiles and Other Home-made 
Wagons; A Castle Clubhouse and Home-made Armor. 
Modern ingenious work such as the above cannot fail to develop me- 
chanical ability in a boy, and this book will get right next to his heart. 

"The book is a treasure house for boys who like to work with tools and have 
a purpose in their working." — Springfield Union. 

"It is a capital book for boys since it encourages them in wholesome, useful occu- 
pation, encourages self-reliance and resourcefulness and at the same time discourages 
extravagance. " — Brooklyn Times. 

" It is all in this book, and if anything has got away from the author we do not 
know what it is." — Buffalo News. 

For sale by all booksellers, or seat on receipt of postpaid price by the publishers 

LOTHROP, LEE & SHEPARD CO., BOSTON 




E 



Practical and Profitable Ideas for a Boy'i 
Leisure Hotars 

By A. NEELY HALL 

Illustrated with over 400 diagrams and working 
drawings 8vo Price, $2.00 

'VERY real boy wishes to design and make 
things, but the questions of materials and 
tools are often hard to get around. In this book 
a number of chapters give suggestions for car- 
rying on a small business that will bring a boy in 
money with which to buy tools and materials 
necessary for making apparatus and articles 
described in other chapters. No work of its 
class is so completely up-to-date, the drawings 
are profuse and excellent, and every feature of the book is first-class. 
It tells how to make a boy's workshop, how to handle tools, and what 
can be made with them ; how to start a printing shop and conduct an 
amateur newspaper, to fit up a dark-room, build a log cabin, a 
canvas canoe, a gymnasium, a miniature theatre, and many other 
things dear to the soul of youth. 

We cannot imagine a more delightful present for a boy than this book.— 
Churchman, N. Y. 

Every boy should have this book. It's a practical book — it gets right next to 
the boy's heart and stays there. He will have it near him all the time, and on every 
page there is a lesson or something that will stand the boy in good need. Beyond 
a doubt in its line this is one of the cleverest books on the market. — Providence 
News. 

If a boy has any sort of a mechanical turn of mind, his parents should see that 
he has this book. — Boston Journal. 

This is a book that will do boys good. — Buffalo Express. 

The boy who will not find this book a mine of joy and profit must be queerly 
constituted. — Pittsburgh Gazette. 

Will be a delight to the boy mechanic. — Watchman, Boston. 

An admirable book to give a boy. — Newark News. 

This book is the best yet offered for its large number of practical and profitable 
ideas. — Milwaukee Free Press. 

Parents ought to know of this book. — New York Globe. 

For sale by all booksellers or sent postpaid on receipt of price by 

the publishers, 

LOTHROP. LEE & SHEPARD CO., BOSTON 



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